Did you know that the oldest pub in London dates back to 1538 (and yup, you can still visit it)? That there’s a thing called a ‘wallet pizza’ from Naples that you can buy in the heart of London for just £5? Plus, there’s a bagel shop you can visit 24/7 in London! Plus, it was the people from Cornwall who brought the humble pasty, aka empanada, to Colombia. I learned this all and more on my recent foodie-themed adventure to London in collaboration with Devour Food Tours.

The aim was to discover some of London’s best value eats, to showcase the different pockets of local culture you can discover through each dish, and ultimately prove to you all that London is the world’s greatest food city. To help my case, Sabrina shot and edited a beautiful video of all the places we visited and ate at in London, which you can click and see below. The lovely people at Devour Tours, which are my favourite food tour company in the world, aided us on this quest by hosting us on two of their food tours in London:

Brixton Food Tour: https://devourtours.co/3ZFjoap

Tastes, Tales & Traditional Ales Tour: https://devourtours.co/449Lo7s

For more London inspiration, checkout my older guide to London’s best budget places to stay and the 52 best free things to do in London guide.

1. Roti King London

Malaysian comfort food done right

From its humble beginnings on a quiet street tucked beside London Euston station, I have been a huge fan of Roti King, especially the classic Roti Canai, which is a staple of Tamil Malaysian food. Part of the fun is seeing the chef preparing the roti dough and grilling it on a hot griddle in front of your eyes. The result—the roti is flaky and crispy, a bit reminiscent of parathas in India, and it goes so well with their aromatic, rich chicken curry. Besides the Roti Canai, their beef rendang is rich and tender, plus their Laksa is fabulous and full of flavor—this place is a true taste of Malaysia.

2. Beigel Bake, Brick Lane

Open 24 hours, thank God

Morning, noon, or 3am, Beigel Bake is a London institution where the specialty of the house is their delicious bagels. Producing 20,000 bagels a day and in existence since 1974, the bagels here come in a range of delicious fillings; the most popular is the salt beef bagel, and I also recommend the cream cheese with salmon. From as little as £1 for a butter bagel to £2.50 for a hummus or peanut butter bagel or £4.50 for the cream cheese salmon bagel, this is probably THE best value London eat.

3. Sud Italia, Spitalfields

A slice of Naples in East London

Serving authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas from their distinctive blue van in the heart of Spitalfields Market, Sud Italia is famous for its Pizza Portafoglio, which translates to “wallet pizza,” thanks to its incredible price of just £5! Basically a Margherita pizza folded twice, this is a great-tasting, well-made slice of pizza heaven which you can pair with one of their sauces for extra flavor.

4. Maureen’s Backyard, Brixton

Caribbean cooking with love

Maureen’s Backyard is literally a home kitchen where for the last 20 years she has been serving the best Jamaican food in London. The moment we walked onto the street, upon smelling the rich flavor of the char-grilled chicken, I knew we were in for a treat, and the food was just amazing. Her rich curry goat just melts in your mouth, and I loved the jerk chicken—I will be dreaming of that sauce for years to come. The rice was also cooked to perfection—fluffy. It felt like eating at someone’s home. A small portion starts from £7 and goes up to £15 for a large portion.

5. House of Jollof, Brixton

Gambian food that doesn’t mess around

In the heart of the lively Pop Brixton is the House of Jollof Kitchen, a smoky, spicy, and authentic taste of Gambian cuisine run by the charismatic Ebs. The signature dish here is the jollof rice and his succulent grilled chicken, plus classic West African dishes like akara and plantains.

6. Cantinho Mineiro, Brixton

Proper Brazilian food

If you are looking for authentic Brazilian food at great prices, this is the place to come to. The feijoada here is serious business, served with rice and greens. There is a great range of traditional Brazilian snacks like coxinhas and risoles (£2.50 each), and they also serve delicious cheesy Pão de Queijo. Also, definitely sample their brigadeiros, golf ball-sized balls of happiness that contain cocoa, condensed milk, and butter covered with chocolate sprinkles.

7. Arments Pie and Mash, Bermondsey

London’s original fast food

Pie, mash, and eels are London’s original fast food snack. Originally, there were 300 of them across London. Now, only 40 of these treasured establishments remain, and Arments Pie and Mash in Bermondsey is one of the best and most beloved places to find this snack. The pies have proper shortcrust pastry and a warm minced filling that’s been the same recipe for generations, while the mash is fluffy, creamy, and melts in your mouth. The liquor, aka green parsley sauce, is what binds the whole meal together, but you can also choose gravy, which is very delicious. The jellied eels, which can be ordered on the side, look weird but taste like home to locals from the area and are an acquired taste. This definitely should be part of any proper London food pilgrimage.

8. Richard Haward’s Oysters, Borough Market

The best oysters in London

In the midst of the madness that is Borough Market, you will find Richard Haward’s Oysters. The oysters are huge and taste like the sea. They’re fresh, briny, and perfect. You can have a squeeze of lemon, plus there is also Tabasco there if you want them spicy, but I honestly prefer them au naturel, and definitely wash them down with a glass of sparkling wine. They currently have an offer of 4 huge oysters for a great price.

9. Daawat, Tooting Broadway

Pakistani food that tastes like home

The chicken curry (£10) is the stuff of dreams; the sauce is thick and rich and goes perfectly with their crispy tandoor oven naan or steamed rice. If you are looking for a quick snack, try their signature naan roll—bread wrapped around a seekh kebab and then baked in their tandoor oven. At £2.50, it is the best deal in town.

10. Adchaya, Wimbledon

Great value and tasty Sri Lankan food

Adchaya is a no-nonsense, simple Sri Lankan/South Indian restaurant and takeaway located in South Wimbledon.

I sampled their vegetable thali with plain roti on the side with my friend Ed Kirwan, who lives around the corner and swears by their food. On the thali, you get steamed rice and a choice of five vegetable curries, poppadoms, and rasam, all served together. The thali was simple and very tasty. For the princely sum of £7, the thali remains one of London’s best deals. Order some vegetarian kothu on the side (£2).

11. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, Fleet Street

Historic London pub with proper food

This pub has been here since 1667, when it was rebuilt after being destroyed in the Great Fire of London. Visiting Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese is like a portal into London’s glorious past, with its labyrinthine layout, dark wood paneling, and low ceilings that create a warm, cozy ambience. Dickens drank here, as did Mark Twain and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, so you are drinking in illustrious company. As with all proper watering holes, the bar snacks are fantastic here, with classics like whitebait or pork pies that go well with one of their Samuel Smith ales.

12. Aria Golden Grill, Leather Lane Market

Leather Lane Market is one of London’s best food markets, popular with hungry office workers and with not many tourists in sight. My good friend and passionate foodie Steve Lowy, who works nearby, comes here often thanks to the great mix of international cuisines that you can find here, all at affordable prices. Steve’s pick of the bunch is the Aria Golden Grill, a stall that specializes in Afghan street food. He tried their famous Qabuli Palaw, a pilaf rice and lamb dish. Served with rice, the meat was juicy, tender, and delicious. At a cost of just £8, it is great value. The portion size is huge and can serve two people, or one if, like Steve, you are really hungry They also make tasty wraps and mantu (dumplings), which I would love to try next time.

13. Chinatown Bakery, Gerrard Street

Hong Kong-style treats in the heart of Chinatown

The egg tarts here are perfect—wobbly custard in crispy pastry cases. They’re best eaten warm, when the custard is still slightly runny. Their pork buns are fat and happy, filled with sweet barbecued pork. This is proper Cantonese bakery food, not the tourist stuff.

14. Old Chang Kee, Chinatown

Authentic Singaporean snacks in the heart of London

The Singapore curry puff is a golden triangle of pastry filled with spiced potato and chicken curry. It reminded me a lot of a Cornish pasty, but in terms of taste, it is closer to a samosa from India. For just £3, this is great value and also the perfect between-meal snack if you are feeling peckish.

Guerrino Longhinop

As a child of a migrant, food and identity have always been a topic that I have long been obsessed with. A plate of food is not just a means of nourishment. In it lies the story of us, a complex web of identities, multiple strands that connect us, from London to Kolkata, from Tokyo to Lisbon. Appreciating the story behind every dish, learning about the craft not only makes us enjoy that dish, it also brings us together. It makes us appreciate the history, heritage of a place. The centuries of craft, the endless graft, shaped by poverty and cold harsh winters, food becomes some magical time traveller’s capsule which transcends time and space. Especially where national boundaries overlap and culture collide, food can be a fascinating prism for exploring identity. Buffeted by Germany in the north west, Switzerland in the west and Liechtenstein on the east, Vorarlberg, the westernmost point of Austria on the southeast shore of Constance, is one such place where climate, history and culinary traditions intertwine to create a unique food culture.

Nowhere is the complex identity more visible than at a local farmers market, which is why on a fine but cold, crisp Autumnal morning I travelled to the Dornbirn Farmers Market where I find myself chatting with plenty of friendly local producers. One of them was Guerrino Longhinop, an Italian native turned Vorarlberger who has been selling his artisanal Italian cheeses and meats in the market for the last 15 years. His favorite customer at the market and biggest fan is an unlikely star of the market Monty, the dog of the owner of the market who comes every Saturday for a nibble of Guerrino’s delicious Pecorino cheese.

Not just for dogs, cheese is the religion here in Vorarlberg and wherever you look there are mountains of the stuff piled high on wooden boards at every corner of the market, each variety telling its own story of altitude, grass, and cow. And to go with any great cheese you must have good bread. Another friendly native you will meet at the market is Dominik Künz, a fourth-generation baker, who shows us proudly his loaves made from local Bregenzerwald spelt. “It was a bit of an experiment,” he admits with characteristic mountain humility. “It was tough to gain the trust of people, but now everyone loves the bread.”

“We share the same cuisine but our ingredients are local….Plus, every dish comes with cheese, from dumplings to fondue to soup. Cheese is everywhere!!”

Cheese is everywhere on the menu in Vorarlberg so our next stop had to be learning the art of how they make it which is why we found ourselves in the rugged mountainous region of Montafon which boasts one of the oldest traditions in cheese making in Europe, dating back to the 12th century. Montafon is a real insight into mountain life in Vorarlberg- just rugged mountain peaks, beautiful sunsets, happy animals, friendly locals and then there is cheese, lots of it. The place to go to sample all the delicious cheeses of the region is the Käsehaus Montafon. I decide to take it one step further and enroll myself into a cheese making workshop. During the 2 hour workshop, I make my own cheese under the watchful eyes of Oliver, a professional cheesemonger. Then at the end, comes the fun part, a delicious farmer’s buffet with regional delicacies which includes the specialty of the region, the salty sour Montafon Sura Kees. There is a small window in the summer to produce this cheese with over 800 cows supplying milk for 13 alpine dairies. Like the Alp cheese that is produced from May to September, it is the uncomplicated time worn methods and unique seasonality that makes Vorarlberg’s cuisine so rich. This is food that doesn’t try to impress you; it just is what it is, which makes it all the more impressive.

The reward after a long solo hike in Vorarlberg has to be a generous serving of the aromatic Käsknöpfle cheese spaetzle, a hearty Austrian version of macaroni and cheese but with the added bonus of crispy onion toppings. The dish is served in practically every inn and restaurant in the region but one of the most unique places to sample it is the magical Breithorn hut.

Views of the Breithorn and the Große Walsertal , right upto the Swiss mountains

After a few generous servings of the Käsknöpfle, the best thing is to grab a schnapps and then enjoy the sunset from the rustic dining room. You get these stunning views of the Breithorn and a beautiful view of the Große Walsertal up to the Swiss mountains (Säntis). Sunrise is equally magical and as we hiked down back to the cable car station, I felt a sense of gratitude and also sadness of leaving such a beautiful place behind.

Like many of the towns in Bregenzerwald, Au is a picture of Austrian rural idyllic perfection – lined with beautiful timber buildings, wooden balconies overflowing with colourful flowers. The village and the region draws in many visitors thanks to its beautiful wooden architecture. There is again that passion of working with the land and that spirit of innovation that comes from hardship that has translated into some of the finest wooden craftsmanship in the world. That spirit of innovation is very much tangible on the next stop of our Vorarlberg food odyssey. At Löwen Mountain Distillery in the village of Au, under the careful guidance of master distiller Oliver Huber, I am sipping on their signature mountain meadow schnapps that burns with the concentrated essence of mountain fruit. It has a fresh and lovely herbal flavour, like mountain hay and wild herbs.

”We have 15 different products using 20,000 fruit distillers in a circle of 100 kilometers around us,” explains Oliver, describing how a 300-year-old tradition born from farmers trying to turn excess fruit into portable currency has evolved into sophisticated spirits. “When the hay passes through the cow, it becomes mountain cheese. And when it passes through our still, the schnapps is created. Essentially, our product is summer, preserved in a bottle.”

Later, we go hiking for herbs with herbalist Katharina Moosbrugger. I’m plucking dandelions from an Alpine meadow, learning that this common weed supports liver health and digestion. “Countless herbs grow just outside our doorstep,” she says, crushing a leaf between her fingers for me to smell. It’s a reminder that in places where the growing season is cruel and brief, nothing is wasted, nothing is taken for granted.

This is the essence of Vorarlberg on a plate—necessity transformed into virtue, scarcity into innovation, simple ingredients elevated through understanding and respect.

In a world of culinary excess and pretension, there’s something profound about a place where the harshness of the environment has created not deprivation but a deeper relationship with what the land provides. In an uncertain world where self sufficiency is becoming critical, Vorarlberg shows us that through time honored methods, traditions passed on through generations, there is an alternative, a possibility of living in harmony with an ever changing landscape and world.

Further reading

The best things to do in Vorarlberg

Lessons learnt in architecture in Vorarlberg

Things to do in Bregenz: Cake, culture and Constance

Things to do in Feldkirch

Disclaimer

I was invited by Vorarlberg Tourism Board to write about the food culture and scene of Vorarlberg. As always, all opinions ( bad and good)  expressed here are my own.

Huge thank you to Sandra Schacherer and the Vorarlberg Tourism Board team for all the wonderful foodie experiences and making our time there memorable. 

PS: Checkout my earlier guide to Athens and also my guide to where to eat in Thessaloniki if you are planning a trip there soon.

1. Pandora

Lempesi 1, Athina 11742

Our tour starts at one of the oldest bakeries in Koukaki, Pandora which is tucked away on a side street near the Acropolis. Their main claim to fame are their heavenly pies which are an essential part of the Greek and Athenian diet and something that can be enjoyed at all times- breakfast, lunch or dinner. The pies here are made with homemade phyllo pastry and prepared on the premises daily. There is a range of pies to try with interesting filling from pumpkin to cheese and pasta.

During the tour we tried the two classic versions- spinach and cheese and chicken. Both were fantastic, the phyllo crumbly and delicious as well as the fillings. Perfect start.

2. Tavern Thomas

Dimitrakopoulou 18, Athina 11742

Our next stop is Tavern Thomas , a restaurant which is a modern take on the post-war tavern of Athens from the 1950s and beyond, aiming to revive the flavors that Athens had at the time. Dishes here range from homemade bread with olives to lamb with greens, mashed potatoes, greens, pies, Greek salad, braised meats and fish. 

Led by their passionate head chef Dimitris Panayiotou, we were treated to some olive oil tasting with their homebaked sourdough bread which was delicious. We then were served some typical mezes, which were fava bean puree and also zucchini balls. Both were fab,

We washed it all down with an excellent local white wine, Malagousia. All the items were from the nearby region of Peloponnese where the chef’s roots are. Overall, a very pleasant and nice experience.

3. Pantopolion

Dimitrakopoulou 34, Athina 11742

For our next stop, Theodore takes us to a popular local delicatessen with a twist : Pantopolion not only offers authentic Greek food specialities but serves visitors a wide variety of Greek beverages, from tsipouro, tsikoudia to wine accompanied by cold cuts of meat plus cheeses.

For our ‘third’ course of the tour, owners Giannis and Stavros served up a tasting platter of Graveira cheese from Crete , cold cuts of meats-pastrami and salami, olives accompanied by tsipouro and the famous Mastiha- a liquer made from the Mastiha resin of a tree which grows only on the island of Chios. Loved all the items, especially the salty mature Graveira cheese. 

4. Dyo Dekares Oka 

Anastasiou Zinni 29, Athina 117 41

Our last stop was a sit-down dinner of home-cooked Greek classics at one of the coziest tavernas in Athens. If you want to visit a typical Athenian tavern, this is the place, with guitars and snapshots of Greek music on the walls. Run by three brothers, the tavern feels more like a gathering of friends and family and you are being welcomed into their home. The brothers have kept alive their family recipes and culinary traditions so this as Athenian as it gets. We are treated to a delicious homemade moussaka, eggplant roasted in the oven with feta, marinated chickpeas and tzatziki.

We are full and bursting by the end so we were grateful for Theodore taking us on a walk through one of the most beautiful streets in Athens- Tsami Karatasou. You will find some of the finest example of neoclassical architecture on this street, wedged between the 70s apartment buildings and the odd few abandoned mansions with barred doors. 

‘If you want to see what Athens was like in the 50’s , this street is time-capsule of that time.’

Theodore remarks wistfully as we slowly wind our tour in front of the Acropolis. If you want to dig into Greek food culture, learn about the history of Athens and also listen to some nice personal anecdotes of what is life like as an Athenian, this tour is perfect and Theodore is great company.  My only minor quibble is that there was too much delicious food so my advice is to come hungry and skip lunch!

How to book this food tour

Athens Evening Food Tour of Koukaki lasts 3 hours ( 5.30-8.30pm ) and costs €79, booked directly via the Devour Food Tours website. 

Disclaimer- We were gifted this food tour by Devour Food Tours but the views expressed here are entirely my own. 

1. Bunna Cafe, Gozo

Address: 38A Triq ir-Repubblika, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

Restaurateur Philip Spiteri’s go to place for coffee, Bunna Cafe is one of Malta’s best cafes. The coffee is wonderful as well as their food. What elevates this cafe to something special are the two ladies who run- they make a point to welcome everyone as if they were welcoming you to their home. Great hospitality, yummy sandwiches, croissants and toasts.

2. Gleneagles Bar, Gozo

Address: 10, Triq Il-Vittorja Gozo GSM 2400, Malta

Run by brothers Tony and Sammy for 5 decades, Gleneagles Bar is a Gozitan Institution . Like all great bars, it is a meeting point for locals, a hideout,  a real piece of local history.  The brothers are full of stories and you feel a real connection to the island’s history when you visit this pub. Plus, the broad sweeping view of Mgarr harbour from the balcony of the bar is amazing – you can spend hours watching people come and go. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A post shared by Kash Bhattacharya (@budgettraveller)

3. Mojo’s

Address: Triq Fortunato Mizzi, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

Probably the best lunch spot in Gozo, Mojo’s has a fabulous menu serving fresh fruit juices, epic salads, their Gozitan burger is the stuff of legends as are their sweet chill cheddar fries. Claire, the owner is a legend too and had so many nice tips to share of her island.

4. Ta’ Philip

Address: Triq Sant’ Antnin Ghajnsielem, Mġarr, Malta

Run by the affable and talented restuarnteur, Philip Spiteri, Ta Philip is the place to go to in Gozo where you can enjoy traditional Gozitan dishes slow cooked in a wood burning oven. Great selection of wines too.

5. Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s

Address: Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road,, Xewkija XWK 9014, Malta

A great place for a nice coffee or a glass of wine, ( they have an incredible wine cellar ) Vini e Capricci in Xewkija is another high quality but value for money place to eat in Gozo. On the lunch menu they have fire grilled panini starting at just €9.50 plus delicious soups and salads. ( wild fennel salad is amazing ) Signature dishes include the Risotto al Guanciale ( €10.75) and Rabbit Ravioli ( €14.75)

6. Ta’ Saminu Bakery

Address: Triq Tal-Ħamrija, Xewkija, Malta

A family-run bakery that goes back generations, Ta’ Saminu Bakery is one of the last few traditional bakeries on the island. They specialise in Gozitan style ftira, qassatat with unique fillings, biscuits and local breads which are prepared in their wood burning oven. There is always queue of locals snaking out of the bakery, always a reassuring sign.

7. Sphinx Pastizzeria

Various outlets in Gozo and Malta

If you ask any Maltese local about their favourite local dish, it is likely they will mention Pastizzi ( sounds like past-it-si) to you. 

You walk in any direction in Gozo or Malta and you will bump into a Pastizzeria. 

The classic pastizzi is in two forms, with ricotta cheese and my favourite, mashed peas.

Chef, Stephen La Rosa’s go to place is Sphinx Pastizzeria and their pastizzi is fantastic. Beyond the classics they have some adventurous flavours including their brand new truffle pastizzi.

8. Café Jubilee

Address: Pjazza l-Indipendenza, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

I finish with one of my favourite places to eat in Gozo, Café Jubilee which became an instant hit with locals in Victoria since its opening in 1998 and following its success, a restaurant in Valletta followed two years later.

For a mere €2.50 you can get one of their excellent cheese and tomato toasted sandwiches.Their signature Nanna’s Ravioli dish is just €10.95 and they are generous with their portions.

The rest of their extensive menu also ranges between these prices, which makes it a perfect place to get bang for your buck. And it’s open from 8 am till about midnight so you really don’t have any excuse not to go.

The bonus? This dimly lit cosy café is full of quirky décor (think tables and chair glued to the ceiling) which makes it perfect for a romantic meal with loved ones or friends.

Further reading

Discovering Malta with locals, no smartphone or guidebook required

Cheap eats guide to Malta

Things to do in Malta and Gozo

Disclaimer: The trip to Malta and Gozo was possible thanks to the kind support of Visit Malta and partners. However, all the opinions expressed here, good and bad are entirely my own.

Introduction to Chur 

Chur is a small, medieval mountain town in the Swiss Canton of the Grisons, towards the eastern part of Switzerland. Reputed to be the oldest town in the country, this perfectly preserved slice of Swiss history takes visitors back to a slow paced, peaceful, more placid way of life. In the Old Town, with its heritage buildings and leafy green vineyards creeping slowly up the surrounding hills, one could almost believe that time has stood still. Viewed from the heights of Fürhörnli, the highest point of the town, Chur appears spread out across the deeply chiseled Grisonian Rhine Valley. Known for its ancient history, dating to prehistoric times, Chur contains several heritage buildings of national importance. Strategically placed on the Rhatetian Railway route, Chur is the ideal place to hop off for a few days of rest and contemplation of the peace and beauty of the mountain scenery. 

Best things to do in Chur 

1.Exploring the Old Town

Switzerland’s oldest town can be found in the Old Town of Chur. With the additional distinction of having a history of settlement reaching back as far as five millennia, visiting Chur is like stepping into a time warp and breathing in the reality of a long forgotten past. With the majestic backdrop of formidable snow capped peaks and the dark steepled city spires of Chur reaching up to the crisp Alpine air, this lofty city seems to be locked in its medieval past. Adding to its charm is the pedestrian free Old Town, enabling visitors to freely explore its winding streets and alleys, discovering town squares, old churches, painted murals, cafés, shops and museums. 

2. Explore the town by playing Urban Golf

A fun way to explore all of Chur’s main sights is by playing a game of Urban Golf. Instead of playing on a traditional golf course, Urban Golf can be played in any form of living environment, from narrow winding cobbled streets of Chur to disused  industrial warehouses and school playgrounds. In Chur, you can hire for a small price, a set of golf clubs and a special softball from the tourist information office along with a map of the 9 holes to master which are spread across alleys and plazas in Chur’s picturesque old town. It is really fun way to discover and interact with a place , drawing you into parts of town you may have missed. It always elicits wonder and amusement from locals and tourists alike so there is never a dull moment. It is a lot of fun and something that people of all ages can enjoy.

Essentials:  To play the full 9 holes across Chur with friends or family costs 15 CHF. It takes around 2.5 – 3 hours to complete all the 9 holes. A deposit fee of CHF 10.00 per person is required , in cash when you pick up the equipment at the ‘Tourist Information’ ( Bahnhofstrasse 32, 7001 Chur ) . The equipment includes 1 golf club, 1 soft ball, 1 “bäseli” and 1 lanyard. The deposit will be returned when the equipment is returned. 

3. Chur Cathedral

Chur Cathedral or Saint Mary of the Assumption Cathedral is a Catholic Church borne of the perfect marriage of Romanesque and Gothic Architecture. Perched high up on a hillside, surrounded by lush vineyards, the Episcopal Court contains both the 800 year old Cathedral and its neighbouring Bishop’s Palace. Dedicated to the Assumption of Virgin Mary the stunning golden Gothic altar contrasts with the exterior – a nod to Eastern influences shaping its construction due to its proximity to major ancient trade routes. Chur Cathedral is three naved and it’s central nave is fashioned from rock from Scalära. The portal of the main entryway is bolstered by six columns that are held aloft by six coloured archways. Notable interior features of the church include the Gothic altar designed by Jacob Russ, the carved choir and the spectacular stained glass arched window. 

3. St. Martin’s Church

The Gothic spire of St Martin’s Church leaves an indelible impression on the skyline of Old Town Chur due to its character and the longevity of its existence in Chur. Built in the eighth century in tribute to St Martin, Bishop of Tours, the once Romanesque Church was burnt down in 1464 and rebuilt in the Gothic design. An ethereal feature of the Church is the more recent addition of three stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti, depicting scenes from the Christmas story. The white facade of the clock tower, with pointed black spire is a convenient landmark in the centre of town and the view from the church tower of Old Town and the surrounds shouldn’t be missed. 

4. Rhaetian Museum

The Rhaetian Museum is devoted to the history and culture of the surrounding area, i.e. the Graubinden Canton. It is a treasure chest of ethnographic, archeological and sociological finds and information. This permanent exhibition is spread over four floors of the Baroque museum building, originally built in 1675, which is a piece of history in itself. Young children can benefit from a visit to the museum too. A fun way to learn about each of the exhibits from a child’s perspective is to pick up a special key from the ticketing office. Each room in the museum contains a locked box, which when opened with the key reveals information about the history of individual exhibits. Not only is this a good way to impart knowledge from a different angle, it also makes each child feel extremely special. 

There is a small museum shop that proudly displays carefully curated gifts and souvenirs. The museum is mostly wheelchair accessible. 

Prices for tickets start at 6 CHF for adults, 4 CHF for pensioners and students while children under 16 can visit for free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

5. Bündner Kunstmuseum (Graubünden Art Museum)

Only a two minute walk from Chur Railway Station, the Graubünden Art Museum is the home of art and art history in Graunünden, spanning over three hundred years. The beautiful heritage building, Villa Planta, is graced by a recent extension – designed by Barozzi Veiga and the combined unit, spread over 1200 square metres is home to 8000 pieces of art. The museum with has strong focus on contemporary art featuring artists that have a strong connection to Graubünden like Angelika Kauffmann, the artist family Giacometti, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and the artist group ‘Rot-Blau.’

Entry fee for adults is 15 CHF for adults while kids under 16 go free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

6. Explore the Street Art

Chur is home to the most renowned street artists in the world, BANE. You can find his murals, astonishing in terms of scale and detail, spread across the city. 

Unmissable works include Mühleturm , the ”creative landmark” of Chur and the largest mural painting in Switzerland and “I have a dream” ( 2015) which he painted with the street artist Pest.

7. Hike from Brambrüesch to Pradaschier 

Directly above Chur and easily reached by cable car, Brambrüesch is a hikers paradise in summer with glorious meadows filled with diverse Alpine Flora and incredible panoramic views of the mountains that encircle Arosa, the Schanfigg and the Lenzerheide. The trail starts off with a quite pleasant and scenic walk through the forest to the Malixer Alp. If you haven’t haven’t had lunch you have the option of dining in the Bergbaiz which serves hearty, fine local Alpine cuisine for affordable prices. After a relatively gentle hike, it gets more scenic and interesting as you ascend higher to the Galti-Alp. This is the highest point of the hike and the surrounding views are spectacular here. For someone who is a hiking novice and a bit afraid of heights, I really enjoyed the hike despite some initial fears. The range of flora and fauna, the views -truly is a unique experience. It is a gradual decent into Pradaschier where the cosy Pradaschier mountain restaurant with its glorious sun terrace offers visitors a chance to unwind with a drink or some enjoy some hearty Graubünden fare like Capuns.

The best part of the hike is the descent to Churwalden via a spectacular toboggan ride- three kilometers long and with 31 bends, some of them hairpin curves, this toboggan ride is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the longest track-guided railway in Europe. The toboggan ride down is 18 CHF for adults, 13 CHF for kids from ages 13-17 and 9 CHF for kids under 13.

Note: If you have the Guest Card Chur, you get 50% off the ascent and decent on the  Chur-Brambrüesch cableways.

Where to eat in Chur 

I will be publishing next a more comprehensive guide on where to eat and drink but here a few tips. If you are looking for traditional homemade Italian cuisine at an affordable price then Da Mamma’s is the place to come. Fixed price 2 course vegetarian lunch menu is just 16.30 CHF is one of the best value lunch deals in town. If you love South Indian/ Tamil cuisine, then you should also pop into Yaal for their lunchtime buffet which start at just 19.90 CHF. Next door neighbour to the Bogentrakt Hostel, Kostbar, where you have a good mix of local food like the Churer Fleischtörtli or more comfort food like burgers and curries. Prices start from 14 CHF. If you are on a tight budget, the local Coop supermarket offers a range of salads, sandwiches and snacks at affordable prices. For example, a salad nicoise costs 8.50 CHF. Last but not least, try Wok and Momo, a tibetan run diner with a range of dishes , from their excellent value stir fry wok noodles ( from 7 CHF) to momos ( 18.50 CHF).

Special mention must go to Polenta 7000, a summer pop up festival run by local creatives and kindred spirits where visitors can enjoy delicious food ( Chickpea curry and rice for just 8 CHF) concerts, DJ sets, table tennis, open air cinema, childrens circus. The season wraps up on 26th September 2023 but keep your eye out on the Polenta 7000 website for next summers pop up.

Best Day Trips from Chur 

Chur to Tirano with the Bernina Express

The Bernina Express is a must if you are visiting Chur.  The train traverses one of the world’s most spectacular and scenic routes, providing passengers with a mesmerising, once in a lifetime travel experience. Starting in the Chur, the Bernina Express glides up the Swiss Engadin Alps to culminate its journey at the Italian city of Tirano. The train spans an astonishing 196 bridges, 55 tunnels, winds up high altitude mountain passes, passes glaciers, alpine lakes, twists around spiral viaducts, skirting glaciers and hopping over country borders. Highlights of the journey include the soaring Bernina Pass at an elevation of 2253 metres, the crossing of the famous Landwasser Viaduct an architectural marvel, with some of the most jaw dropping scenery in the stretch between Ospizio Bernina and Alp Grum.

The 1000 mm gauge is fully electrified and uses 7% gradients to negotiate sharp differences in heights. The panorama cars offer an immersive travelling experience for passengers and enable them to drink in the sights and take photos and videos to their heart’s content. Audio guides in a variety of languages are also available describing the surroundings. 

The Bernina Express is operated by the Rhaetian Railway Company. The Albula and Bernina lines on the Bernina Express were declared World Heritage Sites in 2008. The Albula line  runs from Chur to the Pontresina station in the Bernina Valley. The Bernina Line from Pontresina ascends the valley to the heights of the Bernina Pass. South of the Alps, the train traverses glaciers, lakes and mountains and then proceeds eventually towards the Swiss Italian border, to end at Tirano.

The Bernina railway is the highest railway line in the Alps, and somehow manages year-round travel, despite thick snow drifts in deep midwinter.

Where to stay in Chur on a budget

Bogentrakt Hostel 

One of my main hostel finds of the year was this beautiful new design hostel in the picturesque town of Chur, the oldest  inhabited town in Switzerland. It is one of those rare hostels which is really embedded in the heart of the community. By the end of the trip, I made so many friends across the city. Chur is that kind of place where locals are super friendly.

Bogentrakt Hostel, set in the heart of Chur against the scenic backdrop of vineyards, has a dark history and used to be the “toughest prison in Switzerland. Owner Marco Leibundgut transformed it into a vibrant hostel, giving the historic building a new lease of life.. The hostel’s name, “Bogentrakt,”is  a German word that translates to “curved wing” or “arched wing” and pays homage to the prison’s distinct curved structure.

Old, former prison cells have been tastefully converted into modern rooms. Visitors can learn about the colourful history of the prison and former inmates via QR codes and pictures which are visible throughout the hostel. 

The facilities are brilliant and perfect for nomads- dedicated coworking space at no extra charge, a really nice guest kitchen which guests can use to cook from ( handy given how expensive eating out is in Switzerland) plus a common room with a library, board games and also a TV for watching movies. For a small fee, the hostel also helps with your laundry which is very handy. The hostel reception has a drinks kiosk with local drinks and a beer on tap if you are feeling thirsty. There is also a small shop with local products, food essentials, everyday body products in case you run out during your stay. Hostel organises dinners and also has plans for hostel happy hour to bring guests together in the lobby. The hostel also has a really cool bar and restaurant called Kostbar which is nice to have a beer and relax, especially in the summer months when the terrace is open. The Sennhof, the original complex where the hostel is located is also home to local designers, a beautiful flower shop and also an art gallery so you really feel a sense of community and being part of the everyday life of the town.

There is a range of beautiful hikes and nature within a short distance of the hostel so that is another big plus for staying here. Room rates start from 32 CHF per bed per night, Doubles from 99 CHF per room, per night. There is a special prices of 399 CHF for a weeks stay, booking directly via the hostel website.

There is a 10% discount for BudgetTraveller readers who book directly with Bogentrakt Hostel: Please quote BUDGETTRAVELLER when booking. Plus anyone who books with my code will also receive a free mystery local drink on arrival.

Free Guest Card Chur

It is worth again reminding that anyone staying overnight at Bogentrakt or any other tourist accommodation in Chur will be eligible for free the Guest Card Chur which gives you access to a wonderful range of benefits which include:-

1. Free use of public transport in the TransReno fare network, Zone 1 (2nd Class). Not valid for bikes and dogs. Valid after check-in. Bernina Express and Glacier Express is not included.

      2. One free entry to the Obere Au indoor and outdoor swimming pools or the outdoor swimming pool Sand

      3. Free entry to the local museums: Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History, Graubünden Art Museum

      4.Chur-Brambrüesch cableways: Visitors get a 50% discount on the ascent and descent 25% discount on bike day tickets              (Alpenbikepark Chur and bike day ticket Arosa Lenzerheide Chur). To get your ticket please show your guest card at the               cableways ticket office. The tickets of the guest cards are valid up to and including 5 pm. The evening rides and the rides             on 1 August are not included.

Best things to do in Chur: FAQ

Disclaimer

I was invited to Chur as a guest of Bogentrakt Hostel and Chur Tourismus. However, all the opinions, good and bad are  entirely mine.

1. Breakfast at Best Western Hotel Via Regia

Start the day with the very filling buffet breakfast at the 3 star Best Western Hotel Via Regia where I had checked in the night before. A really stylish modern hotel, affordable too plus just a short walking distance from the train station.

From homemade bircher muesli to natural yoghurt and fresh fruits, cakes and doughnuts to smoked salmon -there’s something for everyone in the hotel breakfast. Plus you have unlimited fresh coffee, tea and juices. Loved the fact that lot of the items were locally sourced-from the bread and rolls to the mustard and Bauernmettwurst ( from Bautzen)

2. Enjoy the architecture

Walking Görlitz is a time travellers dream. With over 4500 listed buildings, the city is a timeline of all the major architectural styles of the last 3-4 centuries: from Baroque to Renaissance to Neoclassical to Art Deco, the range and style of buildings is incredible.Every corner, every twist and you’re in Babylon Berlin or 1920’s Paris – the city is like a movie set. The architecture of Gorlitz is best appreciated on foot-Gorlitz is a very compact city or to get a different perspective, climb to the top of the Rathaus Tower.

3. Visit the Grand Budapest Hotel

One of the reasons I was excited to visit Görlitz was to see the setting for the Grand Budapest Hotel- an abandoned, Art Nouveau department store in Görlitz called Görlitzer Warenhaus (An der Frauenkirche 5-7 )

Anderson found the space while location scouting for the movie and promptly fell in love with its unique, historical architecture. Thanks to the fantastic privileges of my day job, we got an whole hour to explore the building. Note: Despair not. You don’t need to be a blogger or have 5 million klubeks to visit ‘The Grand Budapest Hotel’ -you can visit the building for FREE only on Thursdays, Friday evenings only.  There’s definitely something about a movie setting coming to life right in front of your eyes. I recognise the exquisite stairways, elevators, and atrium of the building from the movie. At one point, I try to stop taking photos and keep my phone back in my pocket to soak it all in. The fact that the building remains abandoned and empty just adds more to the illicit charm of visiting the place. Visit soon though, the building has been acquired with plans to redevelop it into a luxury good store.

4. Visit the Untermarkt

The Untermarkt is the older of two market squares that are to be found in Gorlitz. This a beautiful square, featuring charming Renaissance buildings, cobblestone streets and overarching arcades. Keen movie lovers will be familiar with the square from movies like The Grand Budapest Hotel and Around the World in 80 days ( with Jackie Chan ) It has a timeless look and feel, very reminiscent of Vienna or Paris. The magical atmosphere of the square is enhanced by the odd busker and small cafes dotting the square where you’ll find a mix of tourists and locals enjoying a drink, or a bite to eat.

The Untermarkt is also host to festivals like Tippelmarkt and Altstadtfest. Some of the places to visit in and around the Untermarkt are the Rathaus (town hall), the Neues Rathaus, the Schonhof houses of the Silesian Museum, a Renaissance house in the middle of the Untermarkt called the Waage, the Brauner Hirsch- a baroque town house and the ‘Whispering Arch’ or Flüsterbogen.

5. Rathaus-Take a tour of the tower of the city hall for the best views of Gorlitz

Definitely take a tour of the tower of the city hall for the best views in Gorlitz. The city hall tower or Rathausturm was built in the 16th century. It’s best feature is the panoramic view it provides onto the town of Gorlitz but apart from that it has intricate clocks, sundials and an organ piping lion for special effect! There are two clocks in the tower: one is the moon phase clock that is part of the lunar calendar and the other clock has the head of a warrior, eye rolling and sticking out his tongue, every hour on the hour, set in the middle of the dial.

The Town Hall tour is available from March to December and only from Wednesday to Sunday. The designated meeting point is at the stairs of the Town Hall stairs, Untermarkt 6-8 (no reservation needed) Tours always run on the hour from 11am to 6pm. Duration of the tour is 45 minutes. Fee for the tour for adults is €4 and for children 6 to 14 years, the fee is €1,50

6. Lunch at Restaurant Destille

The Restaurant Destille is one of Gorlitz’s best restaurants where you can eat everything from lasagne, pasta, salads, steaks to more traditional local dishes like the famous Schlesisches Himmelreich which is pork roast, ham, dumplings, and stewed fruit in a white sauce.

7. Visit the Silesian Museum of Gorlitz

Silesia was once a culturally distinct country with its own history. Olden day Silesia was part of present day Poland with small parts in the Czech Republic and Germany. Gorlitz was selected as the location for the museum celebrating Silesian history because Gorlitz is Germany’s largest Silesian town. The Town of Gorlitz donated the museum building – the Schonhof (Beautiful Court) and later a museum administration building Zum Goldenen Baum (The Golden Tree) was acquired. The permanent collection offers a good glimpse into the history of Silesia. Here you can view the arts and crafts of the 17th to 19th centuries. Highlights from the collection include geographical views of Silesia, art objects from the Riesengebirge. Donations from the Silesian people abound here. Coins, ceramic and other beautiful artefacts can be seen here.

Address: Untermarkt 4, 02826 Gorlitz, Germany

Hours: Tues-Thurs- 10am-5pm

Rates: Adults- €6, Concessions- €4

8. Whispering Arch” aka Flüsterbogen

Delight in a spot of secret whispering around the Whispering Arch or Flüsterbogen in the Untermarkt of Gorlitz. Whisper sweet nothings at one end of the overhead arch and a person positioned at the other end of the arch is perfectly poised to listen in. This is a little piece of magic in Gorlitz that should not be missed.

Address: Untermarkt, 02826 Gorlitz, Germany

9. The Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences aka the Harry Potter Library of Gorlitz

Barely a few minutes walk on Neißstraße 30 is another gorgeous baroque house- The Kulturhistorisches Museum (cultural history museum) which houses the stunning Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences. The unique and beautiful library is arranged with beech shelves in the middle of the room, instead of along the walls. This gives the feeling and the grandeur of being on a stage and it really takes your breath away. The library often features on list of the most beautiful libraries in the world. It contains 40,000 volumes with numerous rarities and treasures, including medieval manuscripts and incunabula, which were the earliest printed books before 1501.

Essentials: The museum is open Tuesday – Sunday and admission is €5. Every Monday at 11am there is guided tour of the library.

10. Cross the Neisse river into Poland

A short walk across the 200 feet wide Altstadtbrücke (Old Town Bridge) will bring you to the other half of the city, the Polish city of Zgorzelec. The proximity of the two cities makes Görlitz a unique location where you can experience two countries and cultures in one place.The bridge only became fully accessible as late as 2007 when Poland gained accession to the EU. Once you cross the bridge, signs in a drab font advertising cheap cigarettes and booze giveaway the fact that you are now in Poland. A pretty row of restored houses lines the riverbank on the Polish side. One of them bears the plaque of its most iconic resident, Görlitz’s most famous son, Jacob Böhme, a philosopher and Christian mystic born in the 16th century. The house has a Jacob Böhme exhibition where you can learn more about his life. Enjoy a symbolic Zywiec beer at one of the restaurants lining the river. We chose Ristorante & Pizzeria Espresso-good prices and friendly staff.

11. Coffee and cake at Cafe Herztstuck

Cafe Herzstück (Weberstraße 2 ) was one of my finds from the trip- very alternative cafe with a focus on vegan and vegetarian cuisine plus great coffee. On the surface it seems like any other normal, cosy cafe but my eye spots a row of Singer sowing machines. Apparently you can come and rent the sowing machines by the hour. The cafe also organises book readings & concerts to praline chocolate making classes and table football classes-there’s something for everyone here.

12. Beers at Brauerei Bierblume

Formerly a brewery dating back to the 18th century, come and relax in the beautiful inner courtyard where you’ll find locals on wooden benches supping on their delicious homemade beer in large glass mugs-an oasis of calm and great beer in the city, definitely make a point to visit this brewery and say hello to the friendly Alex Klaus, the owner and brewer. Perfect place to end your day in Gorlitz.

Essential facts

Fly into Berlin or Dresden and then take the train to Görlitz . Trains run frequently between Dresden and Gorlitz ( €24, 1 to 1 1/2 hours) If you are coming from Berlin , change in Cottbus ( €44, 2 1/2 hours )

Where to stay in Görlitz

One of the best deals in town is the 3 star Best Western Hotel Via Regia where you can grab a private rooms for as little as €70 a night via Booking.com

Hotel rooms are modern, extremely comfortable and clean. The hotel serves a very generous buffet breakfast. Only minor drawback is the location- hotel is a 5 minute walk from the station and a bit far from the centre of town. Perfect if you have a car.

Another excellent budget option for couples or solo travellers is centrally located Görlitz “Old Town” Europe Youth Hostel. Located in a beautiful period building. ( one of the grandest buildings on the square-it really doesn’t like a hostel from outside ) the hostel has large inner courtyard that is perfect to relax in after a day of sightseeing, generous buffet breakfast plus simple but comfortable rooms-altogether this hostel is a good choice if you’re on a tight budget. Room prices start from €60 a night for a double and include breakfast. A bed in a multi bed dorm starts from €25 per person, per night and includes breakfast.

Disclaimer

My stay in Görlitz was possible thanks to the support of the Saxony Tourism Board who invited me to discover some of the region’s lesser known cities: Meissen, Görlitz and Bautzen. I’d like to take the opportunity to let you know that while my trip was supported by the tourism board, the article and all the views represented here are entirely mine. Thank you for reading.

Feldkirch marks the westernmost point of Austria, right on the border of Switzerland and Liechtenstein. It is your archetype postcard pretty Austrian town with a well preserved old town that has remained unchanged for centuries, crowned by the glorious Schattenberg Castle and the Gothic-style cathedral of St. Nikolaus.

It is a city that you can easily visit in a day thanks to its very pedestrian friendly centre packed with numerous cafes, restaurants and bars. It also is a perfect base to explore Vorarlberg- Feldkirch railway station lies on the main railway line through the state with regular inter-city services to Zurich and Vienna. Whether you wish to spend a few hours or longer, to help you make the most of your trip, I’ve created a guide to some of the best things to do in Feldkirch, based around local tips I received on my recent trip to the city.

Unusual facts about Feldkirch

The city has a special connection to the Irish writer James Joyce. The unusual connection starts around 1915, when Joyce was mistaken for a spy at the border check in Feldkirch. With the help of friends with connections, Joyce gets released but the incident left its mark on Joyce and subsequently, influenced his most important work, Finnegans Wake. Joyce returned to Feldkirch in the summer of 1932 with the help of publisher couple Maria and Eugene Jolas. Joyce stayed for several weeks at the Hotel Löwen where he wrote Finnegans Wake.

Best things to do in Feldkirch

1. Cool architecture- Montforthaus Feldkirch

If you’re an architecture nerd, you will love Vorarlberg and especially the Montforthaus in Feldkirch. Standing on the edge of the town and looming under the watchful gaze of the Schattenburg castle lies the Montforthaus with its beautiful rounded facades. Built in 2015 on the former location of a congress centre from the 1970s, this modern new building designed by the Berlin architects Hascher Jehle and the Vorarlberg architect Mitiska/Wäger Architekten replaced an architectural dinosaur that had become stylistically and functionally outdated. It is a stunning building that really integrates well with its medieval surroundings thanks to the large glass front.

The Montforthaus is open during the day, a tour or a visit to the restaurant with roof terrace is always possible and worthwhile. In the evening there are many events on the programme.

2. Climb to the top -Schattenburg Castle and Museum

To get a nice aerial perspective of the city, we climbed up to the medieval Schattenburg castle, the once upon a time residence of the Duke of Montfort. Housing a restaurant, the castle also features a museum. Spread across 18 rooms, each room focussing on a different side to the city’s history. The museum ticket also gives guests access to the castle chapel and to the keep. The best part is the panoramic view of the city from the rooftop gallery.

3. Feldkirch Old Town

We arrived late in the evening, dropped our bags and spent a good hour roaming the medieval heart of the city with its winding , cobblestone streets and beautifully preserved period buildings. It was late in the evening on a Sunday so we had the whole place to ourselves and it was the perfect start to the trip. The main heart of the Old Town is Marktgasse where the twice weekly market takes place and also the annual Christmas market.

4. Wildpark Feldkirch

If you are visiting with family and young ones, the local Wildpark ( € Free to enter ) with several marked forest trails is a perfect start to the day. There are over 140 animals located in the park within large enclosures. The park also features a huge adventure playground for the wee ones plus there is a kiosk onsite selling various drinks and food.

5. Buddhist Monastery Letzehof

One of the more unusual and cool things to do in Feldkrich is to pay a visit to the Buddhist monastery on the outskirts of the town. It is a good hour hike but once you reach the monastery, it really feels a world away from the city with the Tibetan payer flags fluttering in the wind and the glorious dome of the Buddhist stupa glistening in the sunshine. The Letzehof or ‘Getznerhof’, as it was also called at that time was a farm till the estate became a refuge for monks from Tibet in 1982. Tibetan monk Gesche Rabten Rinpoche founded the monastery and study centre and a year later the Dalai Lama visited. 

6.Paspels Badesee

We visited Paspels Badesee on the recommendation of a local and wow, this lake was stunning. We timed our visit perfectly before sunset. It was an early Autumn evening and the weather was still warm and there was gaggle of locals bathing in the lake. Beside a large sunbathing area on the banks there’s a wee biergarten- the Seeblick-Stüble, which serves a range of hot and cold snacks plus beer on draft. Sunset was perfect, so if the weather is nice, come in the evening and don’t forget your bathing costume. Public toilets are also available.

Where to eat in Feldkirch

7. Lunch at La Bottega del Gusto

Tucked away in the heart of the old town is a little slice of Italian heaven. The owner and chef Nico is a man of few words and there is no set menu here. The menu is simple with a few suggestions -everything we tasted here was delicious. For €9.95 for 2 courses including a glass of wine, this is a cracking bargain.

8. Coffee at Backerei Mangold

Feldkirch is blessed with a bunch of independent cafes and bakeries but we really liked Backerei Mangold, a home grown family run chain of bakeries in 30 locations across Vorarlberg, dating back to 1850. Their bread has won numerous awards and they serve great pastries, cakes plus good coffee. Definitely worth a visit.

9. Dinner at Restaurant Kantine

If you are a sucker for stone baked thin Napolitan style pizza you will love Kantine- best pizza in the area.The appetisers are really good, especially the grilled Cauliflower in the oven-very tasty. 

Where to stay in Feldkirch

10. Night Inn Feldkirch

Conveniently located next to the train station, the Night Inn Hotel is a modern, comfortable option with stylish rooms ( some with views onto the train station where you can sit by the window and see the trains come and go, if that’s your kind of jam ) and also a very decent buffet breakfast. Staff are a mixed bag-some friendly and some bit cold, impersonal but that could be the language barrier.

Getting there and away to Feldkirch

The nearest airport to Feldkirch is Zürich while Stuttgart is an option too. Swiss Railways (SBB/CFF/FFS) operates a train from Zürich HB to Feldkirch hourly. Tickets start from €44 and the journey takes 1h 29m. Alternatively, FlixBus operates a bus from Flughafen/Messe to Bregenz bus station twice daily.

Further resources

Checkout my earlier guide of the best things to do in Vorarlberg and also my story of Vorarberg’s mesmerising architectural heritage.

Disclaimer

I was invited to the Feldkirch by the Vorarlberg Tourism Board . As always, all opinions ( bad and good)  expressed here are my own.

Huge thank you to Katharina Fa, Katrin Preuss and the Vorarlberg Tourism Board team for showing us your beautiful home and making our time there memorable. 

Where to eat in Riga

1. Mārtiņa Beķereja, Riga’s oldest bakery

Address: Brīvības iela 80

For a tasty breakfast with a difference , head to the oldest bakery in Riga for breakfast, Mārtiņa Beķereja where you can savour local pastries for as little as € 0.50 cents! You will find a wide range of baked goods, ranging from pies and pastries to cakes. I would recommend trying their pastries. Mix it up, with their savoury pizza like Pikanta pastry and then finish off with their excellent sweet cherry Kirsu pastry. Both were delicious and cost just €1.65!

2. Āgenskalns Market 

Address: Nometņu iela 64

Next stop is Āgenskalns Market. Dating back to 1898, it is the largest and oldest market in the city and recently re-opened last year after a massive renovation. On the first floor of the renewed pavilion, you can buy local products from farmers, home producers and traders.

There is a lot to choose from. I tried the Latvian style cottage cheese pancakes aka Biezpiena Placenisi , perfect with sour cream or cherry jam. Then I tried the local speciality- Sidonia aka Quince lemonade. This was fresh and very tasty. Locals describe it as non alcoholic Prosecco!

I finish up with a cup of coffee from Kalve Coffee , one of Latvia’s leading coffee roasters. On the second floor , you will find a food court that showcases some of Latvia’s best local eateries like the popular Ausmena Kebabs from Rezekne and Vīnkalni, probably Riga’s best pizzeria.

3. Riga Central Market

Address: Nēģu iela 7

Make time to visit Riga Central Market , one of biggest central markets and bazaars in Eastern Europe.The market has five pavilions that have been repurposed from the German Zeppelin hangars that date back to the 1920’s. The complex built in the Art Deco and Neoclassical style is a UNESCO World Heritage site, along with Riga Old Town.

You can find all kinds of local delicacies, like smoked fish and meat to pickled veggies, beetroot and local cheeses.

Personal highlights of the market include the Rupnicas Veikals kiosk at the back of the market which serves local beers, Kvass and generous glasses of wine for dirt cheap prices. I recommend trying a few of the maizītes aka Latvian open sandwiches, served on rye bread. Toppings ranged from pickled herrings to eggs with anchovies and smoked salmon. These were so so good and each costing a couple of euros.

My other top tip for the market is Registan, an Uzbekistan cafe and bakery. Everything here looked so good, especially the Uzbek flatbread straight from their tandoor oven. Try the goat curry samsa.

4. Burzma

Address: Galerija Centrs, 4th floor, Audēju iela 16

Burzma is a new food hall concept in Riga where you can try everything from oven-baked pizza, traditional Latvian pork chops to Ukrainian, Mexican, Georgian & Asian cuisines plus delicious drinks, cocktails from Herbarijs.

I tried the delicious Juskaa soup with white garlic bread from Ukrainian restaurant, Borscs. ( €5 ) Other classic dishes you can savour here include grechanka, and pampushka and lesser-known delights like sirnik. Then there is the Boom Cafe buffet where you can sample some a mix of local and international cuisine, prices starting from €2-€3 per dish.

5. Lauvas Nams

Address: Brīvības iela 82

I wanted to visit an ednica, which is the Latvian version of the milk bar but could not make it to one so instead I came to this buffet restaurant , situated across from the local theatre. It is open 24 hours so is very popular with locals, especially after hours when people are hungry after a night out.

The dishes are very affordable and you have a lot of choice. I tried some goulash with mashed potato- was super tasty. The most interesting dish was definitely the cold beet soup aka Aukstā zupa With an unusual, deep pink color, this soup is made with beets, cucumbers, kefir and sometimes a hard-boiled eggs. There is a topping of dill and scallions a dash of vinegar to give that extra tart flavour.

6. Singh’s

Address: Ģertrūdes iela 32

Possibly the best Indian in Riga with a chef and many staff members from India. They will ask you how spicy you want your meal; and they will make things hot!

7. Terra

Address; Blaumana iela 9

Cheap and can easily be made to-go, this place specializes in large salads or a simple carbs + meat hot combo. If you like the food, get yourself a stamp-card for a free meal.

8. Tavs Banh Mi

Address: Ģertrūdes iela 9

Across from the Embassy, this is Riga’s only vendor of traditional banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich). Tavs Banh Mi understands the importance of sriracha sauce which is served with every order. Note that this place closes at 20:00.

Where to find good vegetarian , vegan food in Riga

9. Rama / Stock Pot / Terapija

Rama (Kr. Barona iela 56 ) is the only completely vegetarian restaurant in Riga as meat (including fish and chicken) do not even enter the premise. This restaurant is attached to the Hare Krishna Centre and charges by weight, after 19:30 prices are reduced.

PS: If you are looking for affordable Asian food, try Stock Pot. ( Ģertrūdes iela 6 ) Lots of tasty vegan and meat options are available and there’s always something interesting to eat here. Another fantastic choice for lunch is the fantastic Vegan restaurant Terapija where you can get a soup + main course ( I had a delicious falafel salad) for as little as €4.70 (12-4pm)

Where to drink in Riga

10. Tallinn Street Quarter

Address: Radošais kvartāls, Tallinas iela,

Another hip, cool emerging spot in Riga is the Tallinn Street Quarter (Tallinas kvartāls), a former ambulance depot that has been revived and now filled with hip bars, street food sellers. In between transformed abandoned buildings there is huge central courtyard hosting many events. In terms of vibe and character, this place reminded me a lot of Kasarna Karlin in Prague and LxFactory in Lisbon.

11. Zefirs

Address: Sporta iela 2, Vidzemes priekšpilsēta

Serving stonebaked pizzas and delicious cocktails in a lively atmosphere ( really good electronic music ) , Zefirs is in the upcoming Skanste neighbourhood of Riga, next to the very hip and cool wine bar, Paisums.

12. Herbarijs

Address: Dzirnavu iela 67

Inside Burzuma you will also find the cool concept bar, Herbarijs where you can try delicious cocktails and drinks. 

I recommend trying the Cascara Lemonade, a caffeinated lemonade with a balsamic citrus taste and also a pleasant grapefruit bitterness.  Plus try the delicious Alica Ingvers, a ginger Lemonade made with Latvian-grown Caucasian plum. 

13. Kanepas Kulturas Centre

Address: Skolas iela 15

This once derelict, 100 year-old building is now a hub for drinks, chat and cultural activities. The centre has a yard which hosts many gatherings on summer nights. Check the Facebook page for details of what’s on: https://www.facebook.com/Zoo.KKc/

14. Valmiermuiza Craft Brewery

Address: Aristida Briāna iela 9a

Enjoy tasty beers snacks, hearty Latvian fare and delicious beers at the Latvian brewery Valmiermuiža. The beer is brewed with great care from the highest quality ingredients. Sample everything from age-old malt beer, shandies and distilled lager. You can follow this up by beers at Labieties and then finish off at Piens.

Where to stay in Riga on a budget

Disclaimer

I visited Riga as part of a storytelling project focussing on Latvian food culture with Magnetic Latvia (LIAA). While my trip was covered by LIAA, all the opinions expressed here are entirely my own. Paldies to LIAA for bringing me back to Riga-I really hope to return soon.

Famous for being home to Noma, the world’s best restaurant and a leader in the New Nordic cuisine movement, Copenhagen has the reputation of being an expensive place to dine out. However, with a bit of research and planning, I am proud to share with you my guide on where to eat in Copenhagen on a budget. I have shared below my list of the best hostels in Copenhagen, best cheap eats in Copenhagen and also given you three tips for the best affordable restaurants in Copenhagen

10 Best Budget Hostels and Hotels in Copenhagen - BudgetTraveller

Planning a trip to Copenhagen? Checkout our guide on where to stay in Copenhagen on a budget- the best hostels and hotels, that won't break the bank.

Checkout this guide

We earn a commission if you click this link and make a purchase at no additional cost to you.

PS: If you are planning a trip to Copenhagen, checkout also my recent review of Next House Copenhagen– the hottest new luxury hostel in town plus this great guide from Sofia Vasconcelos on how to enjoy Copenhagen on a budget for families. For more great cheap eats guides, also checkout my best cheap eats in Oslo and my brand new guide to the best cheap eats in London

1.Absalon

Address: Sønder Blvd. 73, 1720 København, Denmark

Absalon is hands down one of my favourite cheap eats in Copenhagen and dining experiences – think of it as your living room away from home…your breakfast café, your afternoon hangout, your evening bar and the place you eat dinner with over 180 other strangers! Located in an old historic church on Vesterbro’s Sønder Boulevard, there is a wonderful sense of community here where you will find a great mix of Vesterbro citizens and tourists, of all ages, colour, creed mixing together on tables, enjoying some delicious food and meeting strangers from all over the city and the world. During summer, they move the long tables outside when the weather allows.

Dinner ( 5.30-7pm ) costs just 50 dkk but you need to buy tickets for the dinner online until 16:00 on the day. Leftover tickets are sold at the door from 17:00.

It was one of the best evenings I had in Copenhagen. I left with a full heart , belly but also a slight sense of regret- why aren’t they more communal dining experiences like this in the world?

2.Madglad

Address: Eskildsgade 13, 1657 København V, Denmark

Madglad is another Vesterbro classic, which similar to Absalon, offers the possibility of a cozy, communal dining experience at a very affordable price. Monday to Friday, between 16:30 and 21:00pm, guests are invited to grab a seat at one of the long tables with colorful tablecloths, where you can be joined by a complete stranger. Definitely one of the best cheap restaurants in Copenhagen in terms of quality, experience and price.

All you can eat daily special, served with different salads, hummus, and bread costs 85 dkk while  the vegetarian lunch buffet starts from around 40-50 dkk.

3. All you can eat Copenhagen: Try RizRaz Copenhagen 

Address: Store Kannikestræde 19, 1169 København, Denmark

Another fabulous, high quality, if slightly more expensive buffet that caters for vegans and vegetarians is RizRaz. There are two RizRaz restaurants in Copenhagen, one located at St. Kannikestræde and another at Kompagnistræde.

You can order a la carte dishes like their tasty burgers but their generous vegetarian buffet, with dishes like falafels, hummus, pizza, pasta and salad is incredible value. The lunch buffet ( 11.30 till 3pm ) starts at 145 dkk and the evening buffet ( 3 till Midnight) is 185 dkk.

4. Det Græske Spisehus Ellas

Address: Fiolstræde 21, 1171 København, Denmark

Det Græske Spisehus Ellas is a piece of Greece in the heart of Copenhagen where you will always find a lively, friendly atmosphere and some really tasty, affordable traditional Greek cuisine. The food is cooked according to family recipes passed onto the owner Christos by his mother Chrisula, who originally opened the kitchen. The idea for the restaurant came to Christos after he noticed the lack of affordable, good quality Greek dining options in Copenhagen. Lunch buffet starts from just 129 dkk. ( Evening buffet from 169 dkk )

5. Sandwichpigen

While open faced sandwiches are a big part of Denmark’s culinary traditions, if you are looking for something more traditional, then look no further than ‘The Sandwich Girl’ aka Sandwichpigen. Made with wholemeal bread rolls and with delicious fillings ranging from beetroot hummus with cheese to salmon with fresh lime and dill to roast pork with red cabbage and cucumber, there is something for everyone and for 72 kr ( €6.60 ) onwards, this is one of Copenhagen’s best value cheap eats.

6. Reffen: Copenhagen Street Food

Address: Refshalevej 167, 1432 København, Denmark

If you want food that is local, authentic and cheap then do not look farther than Copenhagen Street Food, a colourful streetfood market situated on Refshaleøen island, a man made island covering a huge 6000m2 area where visitors can enjoy their dishes and drinks with front-row views of Copenhagen harbour. You can enjoy food from four corners of the world, (Korean, Mexico, Italian and Danish  ) courtesy of 50 start-ups. bars and creative workshops.sit in the sun on one of their deckchairs and enjoy panoramic views of the city’s waterfront.

My favourite place to eat here is a Gambian food startup here called Baobab- their Domodar aka peanut butter stew is really delicious with a chicken or vegan version ( 79 dkk )

7. Best cheap smørrebrød in Copenhagen: Domhusets Smørrebrød

Address: Kattesundet 18, 1458 København K, Denmark

Nothing is more typically Danish to me than the humble open-faced sandwiches aka smørrebrød. To sample one of the best  smørrebrød’s in Copenhagen, nip into Domhusets Smørrebrød (Kattesundet 18) on one of the side streets off Strøget. My favourite here is the Stjerneskud : egg, shrimp and caviar, potato with a dollop of mayonnaise and fried onions on top. Each open faced sandwich costs just 15 dkk which is about €2. Another place to try smørrebrød is Slotskælderen Gitte Kik.

Other smørrebrød favourites to try 

Fridas (really close to Steel House Copenhagen hostel)

Frk. Barnas Kælder

Sorgenfri

8. Tommi’s Burger Joint Kødbyen

Address: Høkerboderne 21-23, 1712 København, Denmark

Kødbyen or the Meatpacking District in Vesterbro is one of Copenhagen’s most popular places to go out, and Tommi´s is one of the reasons why. Expect quality fast food burgers, quality thin cut fries with a buffet of hot sauces and relishes to douse them in, tasty milkshakes, craft beers all served with a generous dose of Icelandic flair.

Veggie burger offer which includes fries and a soda is 99 dkk  (€13) while their Hamburger offer is 119 dkk ( €16)

9. Banana Joe, Nørrebro

Address: Elmegade 18, 2200 København, Denmark

Nørrebro is the multicultural hub of Copenhagen, with a mix of the city’s finest restaurants, bars and a bunch of great ethnic eats.

Thanks to local blogger, Alex Berger, back in 2012, I got the chance to checkout one of the best value for money burger joints in Copenhagen: Banana Joes. Alex likes his burgers to have high quality meat, a bit messy, and full of flavour which and that’s what Joes consistently delivers. It is a one man operation and food is delivered with a smile and a bit of banter. I went for the fish burger which uses a nice hunk of salmon that Alex says is cooked better than most of the “fine dining” restaurants around town. Plus it is fantastic value for money: I paid around 48 dkk for the burger and another 15 dkk for a fizzy drink whose name I cannot remember.

10. Ali Bakery

Address: Nørrebrogade 211

Another Nørrebro classic, especially if you love authentic Lebanese/Palestinian food & are visiting the urban park Superkilen, is Ali Bakery. There’s lot of outdoor tables, so if the weather is nice, this is the perfect place for a tasty brunch or breakfast. 

They do a delicious manakish here:  A flatbread topped with either a mix of cheese and nigella seeds or a Za’atar and olive oil blend.

Manakish starts from just 25 dkk. They also make really decent hummus here ( 45 dkk ) and foul, cooked fava beans with lemon juice, crushed garlic and cumin ( 45 dkk) Pair the dishes with their freshly squeezed apple juice ( 35 dkk )

11. Zaggis Cafe

Address: Frederiksborggade 43, 1371 København, Denmark

Located right next to the Dronning Louises Bro bridge, Zaggis Cafe  remains probably value for money and in terms of quality, one of the best value deals in Copenhagen- everything on the menu is 20 dkk!

The coffee is fabulous, plus their toasted sandwiches and panini’s are delicious. Highly recommend.

12 Next House Copenhagen Pizza buffet

Address: Bernstorffsgade 27, 1577 København, Denmark

If you love good, stone baked pizza , then the all you can eat pizza buffet at Next House Copenhagen hostel is fab. The dough is made from a 120-year-old sourdough or “lievito madre”, as it is called in Italian and it tastes fab. The buffet is served from Sunday to Wednesday from 4-10pm and Thursday to Saturday, 4- 11pm, all for the affordable price of 129 dkk.

13 Green Mango

Address:  Torvegade 16, 1400 København, Denmark

I did not have the chance to eat at Scurry Hub ( you can have a Thai Green curry for just 65 dkk- fabulous deal! ) but I did have eat a pretty decent Thai Red Curry at Green Mango.

The portion size is generous and the staff are friendly. The curries start from 89 dkk for a veggie curry and 99 dkk if you want Chicken.

14. 7-Eleven

Multiple locations in Copenhagen.

A cheap eats guide to any city in Denmark or Scandinavia would not be complete without a reference to 7-Eleven. In terms of convenience and price, it is fantastic with several locations throughout Copenhagen including the main train station, airport and kiosks in all the metro stations. To give you an idea, a croissant or sweet pastry costs 22 dkk, the classic danish hotdog is 32 dkk, a pasta salad or normal salad costs 35 kr or you can have the meal deal of a sandwich and drink for 72.50 dkk. Their pastries are really nice and coffee is decent. 

15. Hotdog stands in Copenhagen

No trip to Copenhagen is complete without savouring one of their famous hotdogs. You will find several hot-dog stands dotted throughout the city and you will always be greeted with a polite smile and some banter, whichever one you pick. There is a few variations to choose from:  my favourite is the classic sausage stuffed into a piece of bread topped with mayonnaise, mustard, remoulade and toppings like fried onions, pickled cucumber. The ones to definitely checkout and come recommended are John’s Hotdog Deli and the Den Økologiske Pølsemand (The organic sausage man)

Update: ( October 2023) I had the chance to finally try ‘The organic sausage man’ aka Den Økologiske Pølsemand which is right by the Round Tower in the city centre. I tried the standard ‘Roasted Hotdog’ ( 42 dkk ) -organic pork sausage in a wholegrain bun. What elevates this offering are their delicious sauces- pickled mayonnaise, honey mustard and ketchup which is then topped off with raw and fried onions plus sliced pickles. It is delicious and definitely worth trying. I have heard great things about the vegan version and next time in Copenhagen, I will try that.

I also like popping into the Restaurant Fodkold on Radhuspladsen ( on my way to see Liverpool play at the Old Irish Pub ) Many locals would say they are better hotdog stands but I really enjoyed my hotdog here and with prices of just 35 dkk, I could not argue. ( You can also grab a small can of Carlsberg for 20 dkk )

16. Too Good to Go

To Good to Go is a lifesaver when I am travelling in expensive cities like Copenhagen. I didn’t try in CPH but used it extensively in Vienna and Berlin and scored some incredible deals on hot, cooked food from local restaurants. If you don’t know how it works, basically it is a mobile application that will connect you to restaurants and stores within your radius that have surplus unsold food.

Example of a deal- for example, today, searching in CPH, you can pick up a bag of food from the RizRaz buffet for just 29 dkk! Brilliant deal.

17. Netto supermarkets ( throughout the city )

Another great place to eat out on a budget in Copenhagen are Netto supermarkets which you can find throughout the city. The selection varies, but Netto focuses on affordable, no-frills groceries, from fresh fruits to a range of pretty decent microwaveable meals for 30.99 DKK  ( €4 ) like the Mac and Cheese or Chilli Con Carne. ( Bought this from the Netto supermarket right behind the Next House Copenhagen hostel on my last trip in September )

If you are looking for a light snack, then you can try their bowls of couscous with hummus for 9.95 DKK ( €1.30 ).

The Netto supermarkets also have a range of snacks like Frikadelle ( 1 piece- 22 DKK €3) and also small focacacia pizzas for 30 DKK ( 2 for 45 DKK)

Best affordable restaurants in Copenhagen

18. Diamond Dogs

Address: Blågårdsgade 27, 2200 København, Denmark

You can eat New York style pizza in hipster Nørrebro hood at Diamond Dogs  They sell pizza by the slice and the cheapest is the Cheese ( Three cheeses and basil ) for 60DKK ( €8) and you can get appetizers like a plate of Mortadella for 65 DKK or the epic sounding Bourbon Caramel Sundae for 65 DKK.

19. BBQ Heaven: Warpigs

Address: 1711, Flæsketorvet 25, 1711 København V, Denmark

I am not a meat lover nor the biggest fan of craft beers plus it is not cheap cheap but nevertheless, I really liked Warpigs. It has a very relaxed, informal ambience with long tables and benches. You order your food at the counter, pay and wait for your food to be made. They have plenty of beers to choose from: collaborations with the best small breweries in America plus you have the local Mikkeller beer. If you don’t like craft beer, there have craft cocktails on tap, created by the award winning bartender, Morten Bruun.

There’s a lot of tasty BBQ meat to choose from: a quarter, a half, or a full pound plus a nice array of sides like mac ’n’ cheese, coleslaw and burnt end baked beans. The inspiration behind the menu is masterchef Andrew Hrozamwho has done everything from catering Hell´s kitchen to feeding Slipknot and Van Halen.

I loved their homemade sauces : my top picks were the Carolina Gold with sweet mustard and the ‘KC’, a sweet bbq sauce with layers of spices like cloves and allspice.

Prices are ok: for a tray of three quarter-pound meats and two sides, I paid 230kr. (€30)

20. Hanzo 

Address: Værnedamsvej 14, 1619 København, Denmark

If you’re looking for a more premium dining experience without the price tag, then I definitely recommend a visit to the Hanzo restaurant which is part of the Madklubben chain of restaurants. The culinary focus is on Japan, Thailand, China and Vietnam, but sometimes the chefs borrow a little inspiration from Laos and Cambodia as well. 

I definitely recommend the Hanzo experience where you are served 10 courses picked by the kitchen, all small dishes from the menu and some “surprises”. It is expensive but in terms of experience, ambience, good value by Copenhagen standards at 395 kr.

It is a great way to taste everything on the menu.

If you are not too hungry , they have a snack menu where they serve 3 items for a more affordable 100 DKK- perfect with drinks.

My favourites from the menu was the delicious Harikiri soup- an intriguing combo of apples, ginger, peanuts , peppers and chili. Then you have chicken skewers dressed in a red curry ginger and sesame sauce. My favourite was the Hanza Taco: a combo of shredded duck confit, crispy strips of red cabbage, pickled carrots and Chinese radish, fresh coriander and the classic, salty and sweet Hoisin-dressing, served in crispy, fried gyoza skins,

Cocktails are fab here as is the wine list and staff were lovely and took great care in explaining the menu to me.

If asian good is not your thing, you can pop next door to the sister restaurant, Alabama Social that specialises in Cajun Cuisine. They do a delicious Gumbo there- chicken, merguez sausage, pork & smoked shrimp served with corn bread. Delicious soul food.

If this doesn’t get your tastebuds racing you have a 3rd sister restaurant on the street called Gran Torino which specialises in Italian food. 

All three restaurants are fantastic and offer a great culinary experience.

We came to Thessaloniki to eat and work. Plus to enjoy the warmth. It was late October and still a perfect 24c. Over little under a month, we enjoyed some of the best food we have ever tasted. What makes Thessalonki, the food capital of Greece? The city’s rich culinary traditions have been built on the wave of immigrants that have made the city home over the centuries.You can find traditional Greek dishes like moussaka and souvlaki, as well as unique local specialties. One iconic dish is bougatsa, a flaky pastry filled with sweet cream or savory cheese. Another must-try is the koulouri, a circular bread topped with sesame seeds that is a popular street food snack.Seafood is also a big part of the cuisine in Thessaloniki, with fresh fish and seafood dishes being a staple in many restaurants along the waterfront. Where to eat in Thessaloniki and what food should you eat in Thessaloniki? To really feel the pulse of the city, head to one of the city’s many mezedopolia ( small plates restaurants where you gorge on a variety of local dishes, washed down with ridiculously affordable ouzo, wine, retsina or tsipouro). I’ve shared below the best restaurants in Thessaloniki that are good quality and budget friendly. Let me know if I should add anymore names to this list.

1. Laikon

Situated next the nightlife hotspot of Ladaika , you will find Laikon. I can’t vouch for this being the best gyros in Thessaloniki but I’m sure it is up there with the best in the city- loved the combination of crispy pancetta with mustard, spicy cheese spread-tirokafteri and their hand cut fries, bundled into a fluffy toasted pita.

Cost: €3.20

Address: Politechniou 24, Thessaloniki 546 25, Greece

2. Kafeneio Odysseia

Run by the affable Christos and Rita, Kafeneio Odysseia for me sums of the magic of Thessaloniki’s food scene. There is no menu here. You are served whatever is fresh from the oven. It feels like eating at someone’s home rather than a restaurant. Everything we tasted from their amazing crunchy salad to the broad beans in tomato sauce baked in the oven to Dolmadakia (vine leaves stuffed with rice) -each dish tasted heavenly and was beautifully presented.

Cost: The prices are super cheap- we ordered 4 dishes and it came to €20. Half a litre of the house white wine was €5.

Address: Kastritsiou 11, Thessaloniki 546 23, Greece

3. Argofageio

This was another highlight of Thessaloniki, It is a small intimate restaurant with 6 tables and the quality of food here is amazing for what you pay. The handwritten menu changes daily and prepared with whatever is fresh from the market.Everything we tasted here, from stuffed mushrooms to seafood rice with mussels was amazing. Two glasses of white wine: €2.50.

Address: Apellou 6, Thessaloniki 546 22, Greece

4. Το Δίχτυ

Good seafood, lovely atmosphere, nice music and really good prices- safe bet for decent seafood in Thessaloniki

Address: Δραγουμη και, Dimitsa 18, Thessaloniki 546 23, Greece

5. Salento Wood Fired Street Food

This restaurant besides serving great wood fired oven pizzas specialises in Puccia sandwich, a traditional bread from Salento, an area of Puglia. It’s a street food classic made with pizza dough baked in a wood-fired oven. Similar to a pita (but not quite as thick and as chewy) you can choose from a variety of fillings- mushrooms, pulled pork, salsiccia, pesto, prosciutto crudo- you are spoilt for choice.

Cost: Prices start from just €4.50

Address: El. Venizelou 76, Thessaloniki 546 31, Greece

6. Μπακίρι Καφενές

I would recommend this old fashioned coffee house /meze ‘small plates’ restaurant near to Zeus is Loose Hostel on the strength of the staff, price and also the food.

Cost: We ordered a greek salad which was fantastic, fried fish plus some coffees for under €8.

Address: Chalkeon 23, Thessaloniki 546 31, Greece

7. Οινοποτείο καπηλειό

This meze small plates restaurant in the Kapani market is a gem with variety of traditional greek dishes. Pick of all the dishes was the smoked aubergine with feta.

Cost: Meze starts from just €4 and half a litre of wine from €5. Incredible value and wonderful service.

Address: Spandoni 26, Thessaloniki 546 24, Greece

8. Bougatsa Bantis

If there was dish that represented Thessaloniki and its history, it would be Bougasta, a phyllo pastry pie that is enjoyed for breakfast in northern Greece. It is close cousin of Turkish börek which you also find in the Balkans.

The best place to try in Thessaloniki is Bougasta Bantis, run by Philippos Bantis and his family. Philippos is the 3rd generation of the family making Bougasta, a tradition carried on from his grandfather who came to Thessaloniki with the wave of Greek refugees who had to leave Cappadocia back in the early 1920’s. The Greeks from Asia Minor brought their rich food culture and century old baking traditions. So when you try the Bougasta here, you are tasting a unique slice of history and heritage. Founded in 1969 by Phillippos’s father, you can try cheese, spinach or my favourite-semolina custard and cinnamon.

Address: Panagias Faneromenis 33, Thessaloniki 546 32, Greece

9. Εδεσσαϊκό

Traditional Greek cuisine, huge portion sizes at an incredible price- this was one of the best value restaurants in Thessaloniki.

Address: Ag. Dimitriou 140

Where to stay in Thessaloniki on a budget: Zeus is Loose Hostel

Sleep like a Greek God or Goddess at the brand new Zeus is Loose Hostel in the beautiful city Of Thessaloniki. The hostel has 4-bed and 6-bed dorms, along with double or twin bed rooms for more privacy. Each room has its own ensuite bathroom, but there is also a separate bathroom on each floor. The hostel also boasts of a common room/ coworking space on the 6th floor with a huge self catering kitchen plus TV lounge area to watch movies. Above it all, on the 7th floor, there is the cocktail bar, the Nectar Distillery. Open to locals as well, this place is perfect for mingling with locals. The balcony also makes a great spot to enjoy the incredible view of one of the city’s most prolific squares. Travellers visiting can also enjoy an array of free walking tours, which include various parts of the city,.There is also the option to take day trips outside the city and visit the legendary mountain of Olympus, or, during the summer, the crystal clear beaches of the Chalkidiki Peninsula.

Via Booking.com, Dorms from 25€ to 29€. 4 & 6 bed dorms ensuite, while privates start from 55€ during low season and can reach 135€ in high season.

Further reading

40 pictures that will make you want to visit Athens