Did you know that the oldest pub in London dates back to 1538 (and yup, you can still visit it)? That there’s a thing called a ‘wallet pizza’ from Naples that you can buy in the heart of London for just £5? Plus, there’s a bagel shop you can visit 24/7 in London! Plus, it was the people from Cornwall who brought the humble pasty, aka empanada, to Colombia. I learned this all and more on my recent foodie-themed adventure to London in collaboration with Devour Food Tours.

The aim was to discover some of London’s best value eats, to showcase the different pockets of local culture you can discover through each dish, and ultimately prove to you all that London is the world’s greatest food city. To help my case, Sabrina shot and edited a beautiful video of all the places we visited and ate at in London, which you can click and see below. The lovely people at Devour Tours, which are my favourite food tour company in the world, aided us on this quest by hosting us on two of their food tours in London:

Brixton Food Tour: https://devourtours.co/3ZFjoap

Tastes, Tales & Traditional Ales Tour: https://devourtours.co/449Lo7s

For more London inspiration, checkout my older guide to London’s best budget places to stay and the 52 best free things to do in London guide.

1. Roti King London

Malaysian comfort food done right

From its humble beginnings on a quiet street tucked beside London Euston station, I have been a huge fan of Roti King, especially the classic Roti Canai, which is a staple of Tamil Malaysian food. Part of the fun is seeing the chef preparing the roti dough and grilling it on a hot griddle in front of your eyes. The result—the roti is flaky and crispy, a bit reminiscent of parathas in India, and it goes so well with their aromatic, rich chicken curry. Besides the Roti Canai, their beef rendang is rich and tender, plus their Laksa is fabulous and full of flavor—this place is a true taste of Malaysia.

2. Beigel Bake, Brick Lane

Open 24 hours, thank God

Morning, noon, or 3am, Beigel Bake is a London institution where the specialty of the house is their delicious bagels. Producing 20,000 bagels a day and in existence since 1974, the bagels here come in a range of delicious fillings; the most popular is the salt beef bagel, and I also recommend the cream cheese with salmon. From as little as £1 for a butter bagel to £2.50 for a hummus or peanut butter bagel or £4.50 for the cream cheese salmon bagel, this is probably THE best value London eat.

3. Sud Italia, Spitalfields

A slice of Naples in East London

Serving authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas from their distinctive blue van in the heart of Spitalfields Market, Sud Italia is famous for its Pizza Portafoglio, which translates to “wallet pizza,” thanks to its incredible price of just £5! Basically a Margherita pizza folded twice, this is a great-tasting, well-made slice of pizza heaven which you can pair with one of their sauces for extra flavor.

4. Maureen’s Backyard, Brixton

Caribbean cooking with love

Maureen’s Backyard is literally a home kitchen where for the last 20 years she has been serving the best Jamaican food in London. The moment we walked onto the street, upon smelling the rich flavor of the char-grilled chicken, I knew we were in for a treat, and the food was just amazing. Her rich curry goat just melts in your mouth, and I loved the jerk chicken—I will be dreaming of that sauce for years to come. The rice was also cooked to perfection—fluffy. It felt like eating at someone’s home. A small portion starts from £7 and goes up to £15 for a large portion.

5. House of Jollof, Brixton

Gambian food that doesn’t mess around

In the heart of the lively Pop Brixton is the House of Jollof Kitchen, a smoky, spicy, and authentic taste of Gambian cuisine run by the charismatic Ebs. The signature dish here is the jollof rice and his succulent grilled chicken, plus classic West African dishes like akara and plantains.

6. Cantinho Mineiro, Brixton

Proper Brazilian food

If you are looking for authentic Brazilian food at great prices, this is the place to come to. The feijoada here is serious business, served with rice and greens. There is a great range of traditional Brazilian snacks like coxinhas and risoles (£2.50 each), and they also serve delicious cheesy Pão de Queijo. Also, definitely sample their brigadeiros, golf ball-sized balls of happiness that contain cocoa, condensed milk, and butter covered with chocolate sprinkles.

7. Arments Pie and Mash, Bermondsey

London’s original fast food

Pie, mash, and eels are London’s original fast food snack. Originally, there were 300 of them across London. Now, only 40 of these treasured establishments remain, and Arments Pie and Mash in Bermondsey is one of the best and most beloved places to find this snack. The pies have proper shortcrust pastry and a warm minced filling that’s been the same recipe for generations, while the mash is fluffy, creamy, and melts in your mouth. The liquor, aka green parsley sauce, is what binds the whole meal together, but you can also choose gravy, which is very delicious. The jellied eels, which can be ordered on the side, look weird but taste like home to locals from the area and are an acquired taste. This definitely should be part of any proper London food pilgrimage.

8. Richard Haward’s Oysters, Borough Market

The best oysters in London

In the midst of the madness that is Borough Market, you will find Richard Haward’s Oysters. The oysters are huge and taste like the sea. They’re fresh, briny, and perfect. You can have a squeeze of lemon, plus there is also Tabasco there if you want them spicy, but I honestly prefer them au naturel, and definitely wash them down with a glass of sparkling wine. They currently have an offer of 4 huge oysters for a great price.

9. Daawat, Tooting Broadway

Pakistani food that tastes like home

The chicken curry (£10) is the stuff of dreams; the sauce is thick and rich and goes perfectly with their crispy tandoor oven naan or steamed rice. If you are looking for a quick snack, try their signature naan roll—bread wrapped around a seekh kebab and then baked in their tandoor oven. At £2.50, it is the best deal in town.

10. Adchaya, Wimbledon

Great value and tasty Sri Lankan food

Adchaya is a no-nonsense, simple Sri Lankan/South Indian restaurant and takeaway located in South Wimbledon.

I sampled their vegetable thali with plain roti on the side with my friend Ed Kirwan, who lives around the corner and swears by their food. On the thali, you get steamed rice and a choice of five vegetable curries, poppadoms, and rasam, all served together. The thali was simple and very tasty. For the princely sum of £7, the thali remains one of London’s best deals. Order some vegetarian kothu on the side (£2).

11. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, Fleet Street

Historic London pub with proper food

This pub has been here since 1667, when it was rebuilt after being destroyed in the Great Fire of London. Visiting Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese is like a portal into London’s glorious past, with its labyrinthine layout, dark wood paneling, and low ceilings that create a warm, cozy ambience. Dickens drank here, as did Mark Twain and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, so you are drinking in illustrious company. As with all proper watering holes, the bar snacks are fantastic here, with classics like whitebait or pork pies that go well with one of their Samuel Smith ales.

12. Aria Golden Grill, Leather Lane Market

Leather Lane Market is one of London’s best food markets, popular with hungry office workers and with not many tourists in sight. My good friend and passionate foodie Steve Lowy, who works nearby, comes here often thanks to the great mix of international cuisines that you can find here, all at affordable prices. Steve’s pick of the bunch is the Aria Golden Grill, a stall that specializes in Afghan street food. He tried their famous Qabuli Palaw, a pilaf rice and lamb dish. Served with rice, the meat was juicy, tender, and delicious. At a cost of just £8, it is great value. The portion size is huge and can serve two people, or one if, like Steve, you are really hungry They also make tasty wraps and mantu (dumplings), which I would love to try next time.

13. Chinatown Bakery, Gerrard Street

Hong Kong-style treats in the heart of Chinatown

The egg tarts here are perfect—wobbly custard in crispy pastry cases. They’re best eaten warm, when the custard is still slightly runny. Their pork buns are fat and happy, filled with sweet barbecued pork. This is proper Cantonese bakery food, not the tourist stuff.

14. Old Chang Kee, Chinatown

Authentic Singaporean snacks in the heart of London

The Singapore curry puff is a golden triangle of pastry filled with spiced potato and chicken curry. It reminded me a lot of a Cornish pasty, but in terms of taste, it is closer to a samosa from India. For just £3, this is great value and also the perfect between-meal snack if you are feeling peckish.

If you are planning a trip to Schleswig Holstein, then a visit to Schleswig is a must. The level of English spoken everywhere we visited was excellent, which is maybe due to the fact that the city receives a lot of Scandinavian tourists. Given the rich history of the city, the very pleasant lakeside location and rich architectural heritage, it is surprising that not a lot has been written in the mainstream media about Schleswig. Here is my travel guide to Schleswig. PS If you are planning a Schleswig Holstein roadtrip, then a visit to the charming medieval town of Lübeck and also the island of Föhr is a must.

How to get to Schleswig

Hamburg Airport (HAM) is 125 kilometers distance from Schleswig with. Schleswig Train Station enjoys direct connections to Hamburg, Flensburg, and Kiel.

Getting around Schleswig

Public Transport System is excellent here with a good local bus network. Payment methods include cash and card. Day tickets available for regional travel. The city is also bike and pedestrian friendly. Our apartment rental had bike rental included in the price.

Things to do in Schleswig

Old fishing village of Holm

Nestled along the fjord, the ancient fishermen’s settlement known as Holm—meaning “little island”—offers a glimpse into the past. Once connected to the mainland by a bridge until 1933, this charming enclave is defined by its quaint cottages that cluster around a small chapel and cemetery, creating a picture-perfect scene. Holm’s historical significance is underscored by the special trade rights granted to its residents as early as the 11th century. Today, the area retains its old-world charm through inviting craft shops and cozy cafés that echo the spirit of a bygone era.

Hein Haddeby, Die Fahre Nach Haithabu

We really enjoyed the brief but pleasant crossing from Schlewsig to Haithabu onboard this ferry that once operated as a goods vessel in the docks of Hamburg. The ferry operator was chatty, friendly and gave us some good tips of the city, plus advice on how to return from Haithabu to Schleswig by bus later. 5 stars!

Address: Haddebyer Chaussee, 24866 Busdorf, Germany.

Visit the Viking Museum Haithabu

We probably left it too late in the day to visit the Viking Museum arriving just an hour before closing. The lady at the ticket counter gave us an information leaflet in English and kindly reduced our fare to €5 instead of the normal price of €7. We quickly skipped the museum to see the settlement which we were very curious about. 

We really enjoyed the authentic setting of the Viking village and how open and friendly everyone was in demonstrating their craft. Had a nice chat about metal music with a guy who makes honey wine in the village. It was a really cool, authentic experience. I really had no clue how big a deal the museum was, especially after reading the not so great recent reviews of the place on Google, especially post refurbishment. Something that maybe needs to be updated.

Address: Am Haddebyer Noor 5, 24866 Busdorf, Germany.

Hours: Tues-Sun 10AM-4PM.

Schloss Gottorf

Impressive building and beautiful grounds. The displays inside the museum are informative with a number of displays in English to inform visitors about the artefacts on display. Ticket to the castle also gives you a voucher to get a free chocolate or bonbon from their excellent in-house cafe restaurant, Occo. Had a really good lunch here and very well priced. It was really nice discovering this place.

Address: Schlossinsel 1, 24837 Schleswig, Germany.

Hours: Tues-Fri 10AM-4PM; Sat-Sun 10AM-5PM.

Where to eat and drink in Schleswig

Beirut Brunch

If you are looking for authentic Lebanese food at great prices, then Beirut Brunch is a fantastic place with lots of vegetarian and vegan options.

Address: Stadtweg 25, Schleswig

TASTE

If you are looking for excellent burgers or pizzas at great prices, then you will like Taste ( Am Lornsenpark 2 ) They also have a great cocktail menu.

Address: Am Lornsenpark 2

Bakery Jaich

Just before hopping on the train we discovered this local bakery. Run by a really friendly group of ladies who kept on insisting we try everything in their place. They even gave us some free donuts!

Klahbatt Pub

This pub was the only place showing World Cup football in Schleswig so I had to go and I’m glad to say that the staff and place is 10 times nicer than their sister pub in Flensburg. They speak excellent English and beers are reasonably priced.

Address: Lollfuss 46, 24837 Schleswig, Germany.

Hours: Fri-Sat 6PM-5AM; Wed-Thu 6PM-2AM.

Where to stay in Schleswig

If you are looking for something romantic and special, then the Romantik Hotel Waldschlösschen is a great choice with a great breakfast, service and nice beds.

On the slightly more budget end, the Ferienwohnung Möwe 14 is an excellent 1 bedroom apartment in a great central location. The owners left us water and beer in the fridge and also helped us get fresh bread rolls delivered to the apartment which was handy for breakfast.

Stockholm is the capital and largest city of Sweden, a cosmopolitan city with a blend of stunning medieval and modern architecture. Built on 14 islands connected by bridges, with abundant waterways and green spaces, Stockholm offers many free activities, despite its reputation as an expensive city. In this guide I have outlined the 33 best free things to do in Stockholm some cool unusual tips to enjoy Stockholm on a budget. If you are planning a trip to Scandinavia, checkout my guide to the best cheap eats in Copenhagen.

Free museums in Stockholm 

1.Moderna Museet 

A world-class collection of modern art featuring works by Swedish masters like Vera Nilsson, Öyvind Fahlström, Siri Derkert, and Dick Bengtsson. The museum houses 6,000 paintings, sculptures and installations, 25,000 watercolors, and 100,000 photographs.

Free admission: Every Friday from 6:00-8:00 PM  Normal Price: 150 SEK 

Address: Exercisplan 4, 111 49 Stockholm Hours: Tue 10am-8pm; Wed-Thu & Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Closed Mondays

2. ArkDes

Located on Skeppsholmen island in the same complex as Moderna Museet, this museum showcases Swedish design excellence with over 3 million documents, 600,000 photos, and 2,000 models.

Opening hours: 10am-8pm Free admission: Throughout 2025

Address: Exercisplan 4, 111 49 Stockholm

3. Stockholm City Museum 

This venue serves as the premier destination for discovering the capital’s past, spanning from its establishment through modern times. While general entry costs nothing, certain activities such as guided visits to historic residential spaces throughout the city do require ticket purchases.

Opening hours

Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday 11.00–17.00

Wednesday 11.00–20.00

4. Tensta Konsthall 

This art space emerged in 1998 when Stockholm held the title of European Cultural Capital, born from community-driven efforts. The gallery has since evolved into a significant platform showcasing both regional and global modern artistic works.

Getting there: Tensta konsthall is located in Tensta, 21 minutes by subway from T-centralen. Take the blue line towards Hjulsta, get off at Tensta and choose the exit towards Tensta Centrum

Note that the museum is closed till 10th May 2025 but will reopen after that

5. National Sports Museum

At the National Sports Museum (Riksidrottsmuseet) visitors can experience legendary moments from the nation’s athletic past, from the 1912 Olympic Games in Stockholm to discovering celebrated sports figures from the present day, or engage colleagues in competitive activities within the hands-on exhibit areas.

Address: Djurgårdsbrunnsvägen 26, 115 27 Stockholm, Sweden

6. Mångkulturellt Centrum

This welcoming community hub in Fittja, southern Stockholm has been spreading knowledge about migration as a natural part of Swedish society and cultural heritage since 1987.

Their in house restaurant Tavernan is a highlight in its own respect, serving plant based dining, cooked from scratch in our own kitchen. Ingredients are chosen according to season, and the seasoning and seasoning is inspired by cuisines from all over the world. The Tavernan also has a popular Sunday brunch once a month and on Fridays is open for dinner.

7. Bergius Botanical Garden 

Located by Lake Brunnsvike, this horticultural haven is a paradise for plant-enthusiasts with thousands of trees, shrubs, and herbs from around the world. Highlights here include the iconic Victoria House which is home the world’s largest water lily! While conservatory access requires payment, the outdoor garden areas remain freely accessible and ideal for a nice stroll on a sunny day.

Address: Gustafsborgsvägen 4, 114 18 Stockholm, Sweden

8. Bonniers Konsthall 

The Torsgatan gallery space is great place to get to know some of the emerging talents and fresh voices beginning to gain recognition in the local arts scene. Entry is free every Friday.

9. Jewish Museum 

Housed within Stockholm’s most ancient synagogue, this institution narrates the journey of early Jewish settlers to Sweden and their integration into the nation’s social fabric and cultural landscape. 

Saturday visits between 11:00 AM and noon require no admission fee.

10. Explore Gamla Stan ( Old Town )

Gamla Stan or Old Town, located in the historic heart of Stockholm is the city’s oldest district dating back to the 13th century! Roam the cobbled streets to drink in the stunning architecture, highlights include The Royal Palace and the Swedish Brick Gothic cathedral of Storkyrkan.

Address: Gamla Stan, Stockholm

11. Watch for free the changing of the guard at the Royal Palace

Move over Buckingham Palace! If you thought the UK was the only place to witness this ritual of pomp and tradition, you would be wrong. This is a year round event that takes place at Stockholm’s Royal Palace at 12.15 every afternoon and 1.15 pm on Sundays. Don’t miss the marching bands and gun salutes of the men in blue!

Note: During the summer months (April 23 – Aug 31), it occurs daily, but the schedule is different in autumn and winter, and not every day.

12. Visit Skogskyrkogården , a UNESCO World Heritage Cemetery!

This UNESCO-recognized woodland cemetery lies in the Gamla Enskede district south of central Stockholm. Skogskyrkogården has had a major influence on the design of burial sites throughout the world. It is also the burial place of the most famous Swede of all, Greta Garbo. Guided tours in English are offered from July to September.

Address: Skogskyrkogården, 122 33 Stockholm

13. Visit the UNESCO world heritage listed Drottningholm Palace Park for FREE

While the city does have a wealth of distractions to offer, if fairytales are your thing and you have ever fantasized of what it is like to be king or queen for the day, then do not pass up the opportunity to actually pay a visit to the place that Swedish royalty call home, the dreamy UNESCO World Heritage listed Drottningholm Palace.

Home to the Slottsteater, the oldest working theatre in the world and the magnificent Chinese Pavilion, the Palace requires a ticket to enter but it is FREE to visit the gardens. Modelled on the gardens of Versailles, the dreamy  Park is a key reason why Drottningholm Palace, Sweden’s first World Heritage site, appears on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Open all year round and free to visit , walking through the gardens you can see the key influences from each of the major eras of Europe’s gardening design and landscaping movements. The gardens consist of three sections: the Baroque Garden, The Chinese Pavilion, and The English Garden. Download the Royal Walks App which guides you on a walks through Drottningholm Park’s unique gardens.

For more about visiting Drottningholm Palace, checkout my earlier post about the perfect day trip from Stockholm .

14. Swedish Parliament (Riksdag) Tours

A great example of Sweden’s tolerance and transparency is the Riksdagshuset – the Parliament House which is open to both locals and tourists who may want to attend a debate or public hearing. The Riksdagshuset offers free guided tours in English to educate visitors about Swedish government and democratic processes.Tours are free of charge but can only be booked on-site.

Schedule: Weekdays during summer; weekends during other seasons Address: Riksgatan 1, 100 12 Stockholm Booking: Required in advance

15. Stockholm Public Library (Stadsbiblioteket)

Listed as one of the most beautiful libraries in the world by Conde Nast Traveller , the Stockholm Public Library is a creation of the architectural genius, Gunnar Asplund and is a great example of the Swedish Grace style. Famous for its impressive rotunda reading room, the museum is currently closed for renovations till 2027.

Address: Sveavägen 73, 113 50 Stockholm

Parks & Nature

16. Royal National City Park (Djurgården)

The Royal Djurgården has the unique distinction of being the world’s first national city park. Celebrates 30 years in existence this year, this park in the heart of the city covers a staggering 27 km², stretching from Sörentorp in the north to Blockhusudden in the south. The park is the beating heart of the city o Stockholm, home to an astonishing 22 museums, concert venues, theaters, and a rich collection of restaurants and cafés. 

17. Tantolunden Park

Tantolunden is a large park by Årstaviken on the island of Södermalm. Its location close to the restaurants and cafés of Hornstull, Mariatorget, and SoFo has made the area a popular meeting place for young Stockholmers. People of all ages meet here for swimming and picnics in the summer and for sledding in the winter. There’s a playground, beach volleyball court, minigolf, a frisbee golf course, and an open-air theater. Don’t miss the chance to take a stroll up the hill and enjoy the more than 100 allotment gardens and garden sheds. Creative carpentry and gardening have been blooming behind the fences since 1915.

Address: Zinkens väg, 118 42 Stockholm

18. Långholmen Beach

From its origins as the home to one of Stockholm’s most notorious prisons, the island of Långholmen has transformed into an idyllic paradise with a beach, an open air stage for concerts, allotments , the prison has now become a popular hostel , plus you will find the Mälarvarvet (The Mälaren Yard), one of Stockholm’s oldest shipyards.

Address: Långholmsmuren 21, 117 33 Stockholm Facilities: Showers, restrooms, cafes nearby

19. Go hiking or cycling in the Hellasgården Nature Reserve

Located just 15 minutes outside the city in the Nacka nature reserve, Hellasgården is a popular with thanks to its excellent hiking trails, beautiful lake, inexpensive sauna and also cycling and skiing tracks.

Address: Hellasgården, Nacka

20. Rålambshovsparken

Popular park on Kungsholmen island with excellent views of City Hall and Gamla Stan. Features Lake Mälaren access for swimming and seasonal outdoor movie screenings.

Address: Smedsuddsvagen 6, 112 35 Stockholm

Free Entertainment & Events in Stockholm

21. Checkout Parkteatern for free Summer Concerts in Stockholm

If you are passionate about theatre and the arts and visiting Stockholm in the summer ( June to September 2025) definitely pay a visit to Parkteatern for  their free outdoor performances including opera, jazz, folk music, and theater. Here is the link to their program: https://kulturhusetstadsteatern.se/visit-parkteatern

Location: Djurgården Season: June-September

22. Free Walking Tours in Stockholm

Multiple companies offer free walking tours ( English and Spanish ) of Stockholm’s historic areas and neighborhoods, highlights including the Royal Palace, The House of Nobility, and Stockholm’s narrowest street; Mårten Trotzigs Gränd. I highly recommend Stockholm Free Tours run by Nordic Freedom Tours

Starting Point: Usually Gamla Stan or central squares 

Note: Tip-based tours

23. Go window shopping on Drottninggatan

Stockholm’s main pedestrian shopping street stretching from Riksbron Bridge to Observatorielunden – perfect for people-watching and window shopping.

24. Visit the 7th best food hall in the world, Östermalms Saluhall 

Browse this historic food hall ( voted the 7th best food hall in the world!) from the 1880s featuring Swedish delicacies like pickled herring, Västerbotten cheese, and gravlax. Free to walk through but do remember that it gets very busy during lunchtime so go early ( opens at 9.30am ) or late ( open till 7pm )

Address: Humlegårdsgatan 5, 114 42 Stockholm

Best viewpoints in Stockholm

25. Get a Panoramic Shot of Stockholm from the Katarina Elevator

For panoramic views of Stockholm, head to the top of  Katarinahissen or the Katarina elevator. The lift is across the road from Stockholm City museum and is free. Originally built in 1881 and revamped in 1936, this lift was closed for a major facelift in 2010 but reopened in October 2023. The views on the top are fantastic with a great view of Slussen, the ferry terminal and the Stockholm skyline. 

Address: Stadsgården 1, 116 45 Stockholm Hours: Daily (weather permitting) Cost: Free

26. Go for a stroll on the Monteliusvägen Walking Path

A scenic clifftop walkway offering stunning views over Lake Mälaren, City Hall, and Gamla Stan – especially beautiful at sunset.

Location: Södermalm

Free Art & Galleries in Stockholm

27. Galleri Kontrast

Free admission to view contemporary documentary photography exhibitions.

Address: Hornsgatan 8, 118 20 Stockholm

28. Stockholm : Public Art highlights

Thanks to the 1% rule implemented in 1963, whereby at least one percent of the total cost of built projects in Stockholm should be used to allocated to support the creation of publicly accessible art, you will find a wealth of public art.  You will find art everywhere in the city, from numerous sculptures to murals and some astonishing public art installations , the best examples which are found in the subway system which is considered the world’s longest art gallery!

Here are a few highlights to keep an eye out for

Margareta Krook Statue: A warm bronze statue by Marie-Louise Ekman (2002) placed outside the Royal Dramatic Theatre, where the actress used to take smoke breaks.

Art Made This: A city art project where female artists create public art on buildings and doors; a map of their artworks can be found here: https://www.artmadethis.com/platser/

“Vårbergs Jättar” (The Vårberg Giants): Two large sky-blue concrete sculptures in southern Stockholm by Xavier Veilhan.

Yash’s Mural: A colorful street mural by visual artist Yash located at Luthens Gränd in Södermalm.

Osagd/Untold: A 4-meter-high bronze sculpture by Charlotte Gyllenhammar, placed in Royal Djurgården by the Princess Estelle Cultural Foundation.

Iron Boy (Järnpojke): A 15 cm bronze statue by Liss Eriksson (1967), known as the “Boy Looking at the Moon,” located in Gamla Stan.

Max Ockborn’s Sculptures: In Bredängsparken, Max Ockborn installed aluminum sculptures and transformed rocks into troll figures.

Amara Por Dios Mural: A vibrant, colorful mural painted in 2017 in Södermalm by artist Amara Por Dios.

Mari Rantanen’s Mural: A dynamic mural in Hjulsta by Mari Rantanen, based on local youth’s thoughts and emotions.

Mihály Kolodko’s Miniature Statue: A tiny bronze sculpture of Alfred Nobel near the Hungarian Embassy, created by Mihály Kolodko.

Elmgreen & Dragset’s Life Rings: A sculpture in Royal Djurgården made of stacked life rings, designed by artist duo Elmgreen & Dragset (2021).

Tip: Museums NOT Currently Free in Stockholm

Please note: The following museums mentioned in older guides that now charge admission:

• Natural History Museum (120-250 SEK)
• Nobel Museum (admission fee required)
• Medieval Museum (admission fee required)
• Dansmuseet (currently closed as of 2025)
• Maritime Museum (admission fee required)

Stockholm on a budget

Few budget friendly tips to help you stretch your budget and some non touristy things to do in Stockholm

29. Cheapest place for a beer in Stockholm: Central Bar !

Stockholm is ridiculously expensive for beer and it took me some hard research to finally find an affordable to drink in the city which is how I found Central Bar. I recommend visiting during their Happy Hours ( 11am till 6pm ) when you can enjoy a 50 cl of the local Falcon beer for 49 Kr or an Eriksberg for 49 kr too. A glass of wine is 69 kr!

30.  Where to stay in Stockholm on a budget

My pick: City Backpackers Hostel Stockholm

City Backpackers Hostel Stockholm hostel is located right next to the main train station is fantastic hostel with clean comfortable beds, a well equipped guest kitchen- v.imp for an expensive city like Stockholm , a generous and well priced buffet breakfast ( 75 SEK last time I checked ) , a lively bar with great local live music acts and the most magical perk of all- a free sauna!

Another option for a slightly less budget friendly stay in Stockholm is the Generator Stockholm. The 11-story building which sits in the tech district, is just 250 meters from the main train station and is famous for its in-house Restaurant Hilma which serves global and Swedish food cooked by celebrity chef Luke Thomas. The colorful bar onsite which includes art pieces, vintage arcade games  and even a tattoo studio in an old safe is also famous for their in-house events and DJ sessions, attracting some of the best local talent.

31. Grab picnic supplies from the supermarket

Buy groceries for picnics instead of restaurant meals. The most affordable supermarket in Stockholm is Willy’s, ICA Maxi or Lidl. 7- Eleven also has some great deals on snacks ( pizzas, sandwiches ) or baked goods, Plus, be smart and bring your own shopping bag or else you will have to pay extra for your shopping bags.

32. Public Transport

Walk when possible-Stockholm is very walkable. If you need, there is the option of a 75 minute ticket for 40 SEK, a 24 hour pass for 190 SEK, 72 hour pass for 360 SEK and a 7 day pass for 470 SEK.

33. Experience Fika 

Last but not least, another authentic and also great value tradition to experience when in Stockholm is Fika, a cherished Swedish ritual when friends coming together over a cake and conversation, bit like Kaffee und Kuchen in Germany and it usually featuring warm drinks paired with sweet baked treats. Embracing this cultural practice is simple in Stockholm, given the city’s abundance of charming cafeterias and coffee houses. For the best Fika in Stcokholm, I highly recommend Cafe Kaffekoppen in Gamma Stan ( old town ) where you can get a cup of filter coffee for 29 SEK and a Swedish Kanelbulle (Cinnamon bun) for 30 SEK

Planning a trip around Sweden and Scandinavia? Checkout my other posts and guides

More free things to do in guides on the BudgetTraveller

1. Get a Japan Rail Pass

Nothing beats seeing Japan from a rail window. The JR Rail Pass is THE way to see Japan. It offers unlimited rides on the Japan Rail network for one, two, or three weeks (all services except the fastest express services). It’s available only to people on a tourist visa, and you need to purchase the pass at least a week in advance of your trip to Japan.

A rail pass for one week costs 50,000 yen (around $335-350 USD). A one-way fare from Tokyo to Kyoto is about 13,500 yen, so a return trip costs around 27,000 yen (about $180). With just one return journey from Tokyo to Kyoto, you’re already covering more than half the cost of your JR Rail Pass, making it excellent value if you plan to travel around the country.

2. Or… hop on a bus

If you’re already in Japan without a JR Rail Pass, then consider taking the bus. For example, traveling with Willer Express you can travel for as little as 3,500 yen one way from Tokyo to Kyoto. Journey time is around 8 hours and you can book online via their English website.

3. Eat out at a convenience store

If you are on a tight budget in Japan, eat at least once a day at one of the local convenience stores. In Harajuku district of Tokyo, I would often buy lunch/dinner from 7-Eleven. This isn’t your usual ready-made convenience fare. You can choose from delicious dishes like salmon on rice with butter soy sauce, their wide range of sushi dishes, or try their chicken soboro bento with sides of coleslaw and spinach. Delicious!

Locals clear out the shelves after work so get there early to get the best possible selection of food. Also another handy tip: ATM machines at 7-Eleven are one of the very few places where you can withdraw money using a foreign bank card.

4. Pop into one of Japan’s oldest fast-food chains

I arrived late into Tokyo at around 11:30 PM and the only place open in Harajuku was a restaurant called Yoshinoya. Later I discovered that this is one of Japan’s oldest restaurant chains, dating back to 1899! It serves tasty, cheap and quick food. Their signature dish is beef bowls, aka Gyūdon (牛丼). What you get is a bowl of rice topped with beef and onion simmered in a mildly sweet sauce flavored with dashi (fish and seaweed stock), soy sauce and mirin. They also serve red ginger (beni shōga) and Japanese tea (ocha, お茶) free of charge. It costs around 500 yen with a bowl of miso soup. Bargain!

5. Take advantage of lunch sets and happy hour deals

Many restaurants offer excellent lunch sets (teishoku) for 1000 yen ( Bento boxes are cheaper and around 500 yen ) that would cost double at dinner. These typically include rice, miso soup, pickles, and a main dish. Some places also have “morning service” breakfast deals and happy hour drink specials. Look for signs saying “ランチセット” (lunch set) or “定食” (teishoku).

6. Visit local markets for cheap, authentic food

Places like Tsukiji Outer Market in Tokyo or Nishiki Market in Kyoto offer street food and fresh ingredients at local prices. You’ll eat better and cheaper than at tourist restaurants. Try fresh sushi from market stalls, tamagoyaki (sweet egg rolls), or sample local specialties. These markets are where locals shop, so prices are genuine rather than inflated for tourists.

7. Drink water from the tap

Do not waste your money on bottled water in Japan. All the water from taps in Japan is drinkable and safe. Just buy one water bottle from a supermarket, then fill it up at your hotel or wherever you go.

8. Consider capsule hotels and internet cafes

Many people consider accommodation in Japan to be expensive, but if you are traveling solo there are some really budget-friendly options like sleeping in a capsule hotel or an internet cafe.

The capsule hotels were invented to give Japanese businessmen a place to crash if they missed the last train home or were too drunk after a few drinks out with colleagues. If you suffer from claustrophobia, it’s worth remembering these rooms are tiny: all you get is a tube with a mattress.

I stayed at the Nine Hours Hotel in Narita Airport ( see my video above ). They gave me a robe, toothpaste, toothbrush and even slippers. I had a large spacious locker to store my luggage. Showers were excellent. My bed for the night was just 4,000 yen (around $27). Another experience to sample is sleeping in an Internet cafe. If you come in late, you can get a room from midnight to 8 AM for about 2,500 yen (around $17). On many occasions you may be sleeping on a couch, but if money is tight, this is an option you may want to consider. The cafes often have showers as well.

9. Use public baths (sento) instead of hotel spas

For 400-500 yen, you can experience a traditional Japanese public bath. It’s cultural immersion and relaxation rolled into one affordable experience – much cheaper than hotel spas or onsen resorts. Most neighborhoods have a local sento, and it’s a great way to unwind after a day of sightseeing while experiencing authentic Japanese culture.

10. Visit the free observation decks in Tokyo

Here’s a great tip if you are visiting Tokyo. For the best view of Tokyo, hop over to the 45th floor of The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building in Shinjuku. The building offers two free observation decks from where you can get a great panoramic view of the city. On a clear day, apparently you can see Mount Fuji, but unfortunately on the day I visited it was pretty cloudy.

11. Take advantage of free cultural experiences

Many temples and shrines are free to visit– see the imposing Thunder Gate (Kaminari Mon) and stalls, selling everything from food to Hello Kitty goods, leading up to the entrance to Sensoji Temple in the old Asakusa district. Jetlagged, I stumbled upon the beautiful Meji Jingu Shrine at located in Harajuku, right in the middle of the city and set amongst 175 acres of evergreen forest!You may also get to see a traditional wedding at the Meji Jingu Shrine. 

Department stores often have free art exhibitions on their upper floors, and you can visit traditional gardens like the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace (free entry). These experiences give you deep cultural insights without spending a yen.

12. Shop at 100-yen stores

Don Quijote, Daiso, and other 100-yen stores are goldmines for cheap souvenirs, snacks, and travel essentials. You can find everything from chopsticks and fans to unique Japanese snacks and toiletries for just 100-110 yen each. It’s the perfect place to pick up gifts without breaking the bank.

13. Visit a Sake Brewery for FREE

You know your sushi but do you know your Sake? Like sushi, sake is an integral part of Japanese cuisine and culture. Sophisticated sparkling sakes, hearty cloudy sakes or sweet and smooth after dinner sakes: there are so many types of sakes to choose from. To learn about how Sake is made, I recommend a trip to ‘snow country’, Niigata and paying a visit to the ‘Toji’ Master Sake Brewer, Mr Yamamoto-San. 

Niigata is famous for 2 things in Japan- Snow and Sake. In some parts of Niigata Prefecture you can get over 30 inches of snowfall! It is a great place for skiers and snowboarders. The snow melt water helps create the most pristine rice and this along with the pure water helps create the refreshing crisp dry taste of Japan’s best sake. There are over 80 sake breweries in Niigata to choose from. My pick is Imayotsukasa (1-1 Kagamigaoka, Chuo Ward, Niigata, Niigata Prefecture 950-0074, Japan +81 25-244-3010 ) where you can learn about the brewing process from master brewer Mr Yamamoto-San and afterwards get to sample unlimited FREE samples of his beautiful sake wine. If you need a taxi to your hotel after, he will happily order you one.

Guerrino Longhinop

As a child of a migrant, food and identity have always been a topic that I have long been obsessed with. A plate of food is not just a means of nourishment. In it lies the story of us, a complex web of identities, multiple strands that connect us, from London to Kolkata, from Tokyo to Lisbon. Appreciating the story behind every dish, learning about the craft not only makes us enjoy that dish, it also brings us together. It makes us appreciate the history, heritage of a place. The centuries of craft, the endless graft, shaped by poverty and cold harsh winters, food becomes some magical time traveller’s capsule which transcends time and space. Especially where national boundaries overlap and culture collide, food can be a fascinating prism for exploring identity. Buffeted by Germany in the north west, Switzerland in the west and Liechtenstein on the east, Vorarlberg, the westernmost point of Austria on the southeast shore of Constance, is one such place where climate, history and culinary traditions intertwine to create a unique food culture.

Nowhere is the complex identity more visible than at a local farmers market, which is why on a fine but cold, crisp Autumnal morning I travelled to the Dornbirn Farmers Market where I find myself chatting with plenty of friendly local producers. One of them was Guerrino Longhinop, an Italian native turned Vorarlberger who has been selling his artisanal Italian cheeses and meats in the market for the last 15 years. His favorite customer at the market and biggest fan is an unlikely star of the market Monty, the dog of the owner of the market who comes every Saturday for a nibble of Guerrino’s delicious Pecorino cheese.

Not just for dogs, cheese is the religion here in Vorarlberg and wherever you look there are mountains of the stuff piled high on wooden boards at every corner of the market, each variety telling its own story of altitude, grass, and cow. And to go with any great cheese you must have good bread. Another friendly native you will meet at the market is Dominik Künz, a fourth-generation baker, who shows us proudly his loaves made from local Bregenzerwald spelt. “It was a bit of an experiment,” he admits with characteristic mountain humility. “It was tough to gain the trust of people, but now everyone loves the bread.”

“We share the same cuisine but our ingredients are local….Plus, every dish comes with cheese, from dumplings to fondue to soup. Cheese is everywhere!!”

Cheese is everywhere on the menu in Vorarlberg so our next stop had to be learning the art of how they make it which is why we found ourselves in the rugged mountainous region of Montafon which boasts one of the oldest traditions in cheese making in Europe, dating back to the 12th century. Montafon is a real insight into mountain life in Vorarlberg- just rugged mountain peaks, beautiful sunsets, happy animals, friendly locals and then there is cheese, lots of it. The place to go to sample all the delicious cheeses of the region is the Käsehaus Montafon. I decide to take it one step further and enroll myself into a cheese making workshop. During the 2 hour workshop, I make my own cheese under the watchful eyes of Oliver, a professional cheesemonger. Then at the end, comes the fun part, a delicious farmer’s buffet with regional delicacies which includes the specialty of the region, the salty sour Montafon Sura Kees. There is a small window in the summer to produce this cheese with over 800 cows supplying milk for 13 alpine dairies. Like the Alp cheese that is produced from May to September, it is the uncomplicated time worn methods and unique seasonality that makes Vorarlberg’s cuisine so rich. This is food that doesn’t try to impress you; it just is what it is, which makes it all the more impressive.

The reward after a long solo hike in Vorarlberg has to be a generous serving of the aromatic Käsknöpfle cheese spaetzle, a hearty Austrian version of macaroni and cheese but with the added bonus of crispy onion toppings. The dish is served in practically every inn and restaurant in the region but one of the most unique places to sample it is the magical Breithorn hut.

Views of the Breithorn and the Große Walsertal , right upto the Swiss mountains

After a few generous servings of the Käsknöpfle, the best thing is to grab a schnapps and then enjoy the sunset from the rustic dining room. You get these stunning views of the Breithorn and a beautiful view of the Große Walsertal up to the Swiss mountains (Säntis). Sunrise is equally magical and as we hiked down back to the cable car station, I felt a sense of gratitude and also sadness of leaving such a beautiful place behind.

Like many of the towns in Bregenzerwald, Au is a picture of Austrian rural idyllic perfection – lined with beautiful timber buildings, wooden balconies overflowing with colourful flowers. The village and the region draws in many visitors thanks to its beautiful wooden architecture. There is again that passion of working with the land and that spirit of innovation that comes from hardship that has translated into some of the finest wooden craftsmanship in the world. That spirit of innovation is very much tangible on the next stop of our Vorarlberg food odyssey. At Löwen Mountain Distillery in the village of Au, under the careful guidance of master distiller Oliver Huber, I am sipping on their signature mountain meadow schnapps that burns with the concentrated essence of mountain fruit. It has a fresh and lovely herbal flavour, like mountain hay and wild herbs.

”We have 15 different products using 20,000 fruit distillers in a circle of 100 kilometers around us,” explains Oliver, describing how a 300-year-old tradition born from farmers trying to turn excess fruit into portable currency has evolved into sophisticated spirits. “When the hay passes through the cow, it becomes mountain cheese. And when it passes through our still, the schnapps is created. Essentially, our product is summer, preserved in a bottle.”

Later, we go hiking for herbs with herbalist Katharina Moosbrugger. I’m plucking dandelions from an Alpine meadow, learning that this common weed supports liver health and digestion. “Countless herbs grow just outside our doorstep,” she says, crushing a leaf between her fingers for me to smell. It’s a reminder that in places where the growing season is cruel and brief, nothing is wasted, nothing is taken for granted.

This is the essence of Vorarlberg on a plate—necessity transformed into virtue, scarcity into innovation, simple ingredients elevated through understanding and respect.

In a world of culinary excess and pretension, there’s something profound about a place where the harshness of the environment has created not deprivation but a deeper relationship with what the land provides. In an uncertain world where self sufficiency is becoming critical, Vorarlberg shows us that through time honored methods, traditions passed on through generations, there is an alternative, a possibility of living in harmony with an ever changing landscape and world.

Further reading

The best things to do in Vorarlberg

Lessons learnt in architecture in Vorarlberg

Things to do in Bregenz: Cake, culture and Constance

Things to do in Feldkirch

Disclaimer

I was invited by Vorarlberg Tourism Board to write about the food culture and scene of Vorarlberg. As always, all opinions ( bad and good)  expressed here are my own.

Huge thank you to Sandra Schacherer and the Vorarlberg Tourism Board team for all the wonderful foodie experiences and making our time there memorable. 

Where Switzerland, France and Germany meet, Basel with a population of under 200000, packs a punch with its perfect blend of old and new. Beneath the picture-postcard cobblestone streets and classic architecture there is a quirky cool edge, which is evident from quirky public sculpture pieces, to its avant garde art galleries and its breathtaking modern architectural buildings – there are stories in every corner of this city. There is a ton of culture, from giants of the art scene like Fondation Beyeler to a rich hive of independent art galleries, this city is very rich in terms of the arts.Then there is the food scene, the crossroad of Swiss, French and German influences that delivers serious flavour, often with a side of rebellion. Basel has something for everyone, whatever your passion and interests are. Here is my guide to Basel on a budget. PS If you are planning a trip to Switzerland , here is my brand new guide to Switzerland on a budget and also my brand new guide to Lucerne on a budget and  Zurich on a budget.Also checkout my earlier guide to the best things to do in Chur

Dorms, Hyve Basel

Where to stay: Hyve Basel

Located just a short walk from the main train Station, Hyve Basel offers a range of accommodation options that cater to all kinds of travellers and budgets. If you are looking for your own space, they have a bunch of full equipped apartments that come with their own private balcony. The wood panelled private doubles and family ensuites are beautifully designed with large windows that let in a lot of a light. The most popular section of the Hotel are their hostel style Japanese pod dorms. These are some of the best designed pod dorms I have seen in any hostel in Europe. The mattress is super comfy, there is a plug point for charging gadgets, plus a huge bedside mirror that makes the pod feel less claustrophobic. Plus, there is an air vent so that there is a good circulation of air.

The shared bathrooms and showers worked really well and are cleaned regularly. A big highlight of Hyve Basel is the common room shared lounge which is popular not only with guests but locals from Basel living in the area. The common room by day is a great space to work from plus there is excellent coffee. In the evenings, it gets a bit more of a living room vibe with people eating, reading, working or maybe gathering around the fire on the beautiful outdoor terrace. There is a regular programme of events, from live comedy to board game evenings to cooked meals. The hostel also has an excellent self-catering kitchen which is a big plus for visiting Basel. There is a local convenience store just around the corner plus a Coop Supermarket further up the road, beside the train Station. Other notable facilities include a washing machine and dryer for the affordable price of 5CHF and also a pool table area. Last but not least, the hosts and staff here are super helpful. Esra, Suzanne, Alex, Sarah- everyone I met were super helpful and gave me great tips.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at Hyve Basel and at any of their other locations , which currently include Lucerne and  Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden

Street-art -The best spots in Basel

Basel has a diverse and interesting street art scene and everywhere you walk in the city, you will find an eclectic mix of murals, graffiti and installations, especially on the outskirts of the city. You will find striking graffiti and murals along the tracks between the Swiss SBB railway station and Schwarzwaldbrücke bridge, as well as around Schänzli near St. Jakob-Park and the Sommercasino. The harbour also features impressive street art. Additionally, the Bell site showcases Basel’s largest installation, a 1,700 m² wall created by over 30 artists during the Change of Colours event in August 2020.

Here are my favourite spots:

1.Gerbergässlein

4001 Basel

Commissioned by the rock bar L’Unique across the alley, this is probably Basel’s most famous street artwork – it is a massive artwork featuring an array of world famous musicians, from the Beatles to Jimi Hendrix to Ozzy.

2. Malaga loves Basel – Kohlenberg

Kohlenberg 13, Basel

Dest Jones from Basel and urban artist Lalone from Malaga both created this mural as a homage to Pablo Picasso and his influence on the cities of Basel and Malaga.

3. Sommercasino

Münchensteinerstrasse 1,

4052 Basel

A former society house dating from the 19th century, the Sommercasino besides being a popular hotspot for concerts and parties, is also a popular hangout spot for local graffiti artists and you will find some impressive artworks and motifs on the entire facade.

4.Space Invaders

Clarastrasse,

4005 Basel

Across Basel you will find 20 Space Invaders by Paris based Invader, a leading light of the urban art world. Of the 20 pieces, the most famous one is in Kleinbasel, around the Corner from the Messe Basel. Created in 2019, “The Golden Pot of the Art World”, is one of the biggest in the world.

5. Port

Uferstrasse, 4057 Basel

Along the remote edges of Klybeck right upto the “border triangle” aka Dreiländereck where the three countries meet, you will find a great mix of murals and graffiti art adorning everything from the walls of industrial buildings to freight Wagons and also in the culture space, Holzpark Klybeck.

3 great museums you can visit for free in Basel

1.Kunstmuseum Basel

Kunstmuseum Basel houses the second largest public art collection in Switzerland, after the Kunsthaus Zürich and is listed as a heritage site of national significance.Its lineage extends back to the Amerbach Cabinet, which included a collection of works by Hans Holbein purchased by the city of Basel and the University of Basel in 1661, which made it the first municipally owned and therefore, open to the public museum in the world. Its collection is distinguished by an impressively wide historic span, from the early 15th century up to the immediate present. Its various areas of emphasis give it international standing as one of the most significant museums of its kind. These encompass: paintings and drawings by artists active in the Upper Rhine region between 1400 and 1600, and on the art of the 19th to 21st centuries.

The collection can be visited for free on Tuesdays and Thursdays from 5 to 6 p.m., Wednesdays and Fridays from 5 to 8 p.m., and the first Sunday of each month.

2.Museum Tinguely

A visit to Museum Tinguely is a must for an insight into the life and genius of Jean Tinguely, one of Basels most celebrated citizens for his pioneering work in the field of kinetic works.

Spanning his career which last more than 4 decades, the museum is the largest collection of his works, from early, filigree reliefs to his monumental machine sculptures from the 1980s.

Inspired by Tinguely, Museum Tinguely is very playful and interactive, hosting diverse events and exhibitions that will bring out your inner artist.

The museum is free to visit late on Thursdays between 6 – 9 pm.

3.Hoosesaggmuseum

In the heart of the charming and steep Imbergässlein, once the street of Basel’s spice merchants, lies the fascinating Hoosesaggmuseum (Pants Pocket Museum). There’s no entry fee, but also no entrance possible to this museum- the entire collection is displayed within a two-foot-by-two-foot window in the door of Dagmar and Matthias Vergeat’s 600-year-old home, tucked away in this narrow pedestrian alley in Basel’s Old Town.

This unique museum showcases miniature collections small enough to fit in your pocket. Anyone with a private collection of tiny objects of more than 30 items can display them here for a limited time, adding a personal and whimsical touch to the exhibits.

4. Great places to eat in Basel

1.Sapori Del Sud

Right next to the Spalentor lies a slice of Italian and Sicilian heaven – Sapori Del Sud is a takeaway run by the affable Antonio Russo and his mother, Grazia who specialise in preparing paninos and their signature pastrami sandwiches, which in a bite takes me back to New York. The prices are very reasonable – 11 CHF for a Jumbo Sandwich, which is enough to feed two people.

2. Za Zaa

A stylish Syrian-Lebanese eatery in the heart of Basel, Za Zaa  offers a nice range of dishes, from traditional salads, excellent hummus, both cold and warm mezze and great falafel.

3. Lily Maxim

Serving a mix of classic Thai, Indian and Chinese dishes, if you are looking for an  unpretentious dining experience with fast, good service, then you will like Lily Maxim. The food is adapted to local tastes but there is a good range of condiments to customise the dish to your style.

4. Klara

Another excellent option for dining is Klara, a food court that serves culinary treats from Japan, Argentina, Thailand and Africa. Locals rave about the hummus and pita from Yoya Pitabar and the pasta and pinsa from Lamia Pastaria. Our pick of the bunch was the Vietnamese Diner,

Nón Lá Vietnamese Corner. Sabrina loved the Bun Bo Nam Bo and I tried the Banh Mi with their special lemongrass chicken and it was fab.

5. Markthalle

Located near the train station in a beautiful listed building that originally served as the local market lies the Markthalle. Since 2014 it has been repurposed into an international food Court featuring dishes from all around the world at very reasonable prices. There is a great variety of choice here,  from delicious empanadas to ceviche to kebabs and also delicious curries. When we visited, late on the weekend, we also found an excellent local preloved clothes market packed with locals.

6. Coffee at Café Unternehmen

This architectural gem dating back to 1912 was formerly the Swiss Volksbank and is Basels unofficial living room where you will find people hunched over their laptops working away, tired shoppers lounging on the stylish Eames chairs sipping on coffee or locals enjoying their excellent terrace, scoffing one of their delicious range of cakes and pastries.

Top tip: Dominated by its vibrant rouge red 16th century town hall, the Marktplatz is a definitely worth wandering, especially during the week when there’s a busy weekly market on where locals come to buy fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers.

7. Jakob’s Basler Leckerly

No trip to Basel is complete without sampling the famous Basler Leckerli biscuits, a ginger biscuit popular in the region that reminded us a lot of the popular German Xmas treat, Lebkuchen gingerbread cookies. The place to try the Basler Leckerli is Jakob’s Basler Leckerly, the oldest biscuit manufacturer in Switzerland, dating back to 1753.

5. Swimming, Basel style, down the Rhine river

Wickelfisch and also Buvette culture

In late spring and summer, the most popular thing that locals do to relax and cool down, is to go for a swim down the Rhine river. Everytime we walked down Kleinbasel, we saw people of all ages drifting down the river. Most people use their “Wickelfisch”, a swim bag where they can store their clothes and valuables securely, to float down on the gentle current through the city. There are plenty of places on Kleinbasel to dry yourself. I was super impressed at the number of showers and toilet facilities along the river – this city really knows how to enjoy summer. Plus, don’t forget all the marvellous buvettes for enjoying an ice cold drink. Our tip is Flora, which has a great selection of affordable wines and beers on tap.

Note: You can hire a Wickelfisch from the Basel Tourism Information Point for 10 CHF. Also worth remembering, sometimes the current can be pretty strong so it is advisable to check conditions before you go for a dip – Basel tourism website is a good place to check.

6. Hop on a Rhine River Ferry for just 2 CHF!

My kind of Rhine Cruise – for the princely sum of 2 Swiss francs you can cross the river in Basel: Choose from the four Rhine river ferries “Wild Maa”, “Leu”, “Vogel Gryff” and “Ueli”, which all link the Grossbasel to Kleinbasel. Attached to a long wire cable, the boats are driven purely by the current of the Rhine itself.

1 of 4 ferries to cross the Rhine: after roaming the scenic area of St Alban, an upscale residential district of Basel dotted with villas and Gothic and baroque merchants’ houses, we hopped on the Wilde Maa ferry from St Alban in Grossbasel to Kleinbasel.

7. Exploring Klybeck

If you are looking for something bit more alternative, then I definitely recommend a visit to the former industrial district of Klybeck on the banks of the Rhine, which has been a popular magnet for artists and culture lovers since it was formed back in 2014. Holzpark Klybeck which reminds me a lot of Holzmarkt25 in Berlin has lots of cool street art pieces and is packed with pop-up bars and restaurants made from shipping containers and wooden pallets. I recommend having a beer or cocktail at the friendly Patschifig. Also, recommend the rustic Landstelle, by the Rhine river next to Holzpark for a refreshing beer or cocktail after a dip in the river from the nearby jetty.

8.  Basel for free- take a self guided walking tour

If you are short on time and prefer the independence of exploring the city on foot at your own pace, then the free Basel City App is the one you should download. There is a wealth of history and stories in every corner of Basel’s Old Town and this app, gives you the lowdown of all the stories and places you can discover. You have 5 different walking tours to choose from and they all start and finish on the Marktplatz.

9. Basel Nightlife

Basel’s nightlife punches above its weight for a city of its size. There’s something for everyone. You will find a nice mix of easygoing pubs and also cozy, dimly lit bars spread through the the  ever-popular Steinenvorstadt to the lively Rheingasse to the hip Klybeck district. If you are looking for a nice after work drink by the Rhine river, you cannot go wrong with Landstelle.

Then there are underground clubs like Nordstern, pulsing with electronic beats until the early hours.

Getting around Basel

Getting around Basel is a dream, thanks to its efficient and well-connected transport system. The city’s backbone is its extensive tram and bus network, run by BVB. Trams crisscross the city, while buses fill in the gaps.

Visitors staying at Hyve Basel get a fantastic perk – the Basel Card for free! This magic card allows you free use of public transport and discounts on attractions. If you don’t have the Basel Card, you can buy tickets from machines at stops or via the BVB app.

Basel’s compact size makes it perfect to explore by foot or bike. As mentioned earlier, for a one of a kind experience, hop on one of the Rhine River ferries. These cable-guided boats offer a wonderful way to cross the river.

Plus, if you are coming from the airport, Bus 50 will get you into the city centre in about 20 minutes. This bus is included in your free Basel Card. (remember to download it onto your phone). And if you are arriving by train, the Basel SBB station is right in the heart of the city and you can easily walk to Hyve Basel.

PS If you are planning a trip to Switzerland , here is my brand new guide to Switzerland on a budget and also my brand new guide to Zurich on a budget. Also checkout my earlier guide to the best things to do in Chur

Where to stay in Lucerne on a budget

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne

Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne is a fantastic option to have in terms of price, location and the facilities. Nestled in the heart of the city, steps from the iconic Chapel Bridge, Lion Monument, the Old Town plus with a Coop supermarket next door, the location is perfect. 

The innovative pod-style beds, inspired by Japanese capsule hotels but featuring Swiss design, are arranged in double-decker configuration. For additional privacy, you can opt for a lower pod by paying a small premium.

Accessibility is prioritized with a specialized wheelchair-accessible pod. The hostel offers gender-segregated shower and restroom facilities, plus a fully accessible bathroom for guests with disabilities.

Security is managed through smart technology – each pod’s sliding door locks via a smartphone app using Bluetooth, or alternatively through a 4-digit PIN provided at check-in. This single system grants access to both your room and individual pod.

Inside each pod, you’ll find thoughtful amenities: a plush mattress, adjustable lighting, mirror, and garment hooks. A whisper-quiet ventilation system ensures comfort, while the interior decor features cloud murals overhead and Swiss Alpine imagery, adding a local touch to your stay. Luggage and footwear can be stored beneath the bottom pods, with cable locks available for security. A separate luggage storage room provides an additional storage option.

Then there is the stunning shared space, a glass-walled lounge which shapeshifts from peaceful morning coffee spot to perfect coworking spot to evening entertainment hub.

Whether you’re looking to get some work done, read a book from their wonderful library of books on their comfy leather sofa, join the weekly movie nights, catch a comedy show, or bond with fellow guests over board games, there’s always something for guests here.

There is an onsite bar where you can enjoy baked goods, pizza, flammkuchen at an affordable price plus a selection of wines, beers and soft drinks if you are thirsty. At under 80 CHF a night, Chapter Lucerne proves that thoughtful design, comfort, and community does not need to come with a luxury price tag.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Chapter Lucerne and at any of their other locations , which currently include Zurich and Basel

Free things to do in Lucerne

1.Visit the Musegg Wall

An ancient fortification that protected the city in medieval times, serves as a historic landmark, a home to Lucerne’s wildlife and an excellent place to take in the views of the city and the surrounding mountains. Nestled in the heart of the Old Town and stretching over an incredible 800 metres, navigating the Musegg Wall and its nine towers is a wonderful way to drink in Lucerne’s history. The 31 metre high, Zyt tower houses a clock face on its exterior that can be viewed from as far away as the Lake. Jackdaws, common lizards and insects call this well preserved wall, their home, and is undoubtedly one of Lucerne’s best preserved historical. Keep in mind that during the winter months (November-March), the Wall and Towers remains closed for visitors. 

2. Visit the Lion Monument

The ‘Lion of Lucerne’ designed by Bertel Thorvaldsen, is a moving tribute to those Swiss Guards who perished in battle, during the French Revolution. The rock relief carved into the cliff face is a spectacular 10 metres long and 6 metres high but rather than the size of the sculpture, or the grandeur of the carving, it is the expression of mortal pain on the lion’s face that is the most arresting. Situated in a city park in the centre of town , the stunning grotto with the poignant sandstone carving allows visitors to step back in time and pay homage to the lives of six hundred brave souls.

3. The wooden bridges of Lucern-Chapel Bridge and Chaff Bridge

Lucerne’s Chapel Bridge is Europe’s oldest covered bridge. Made from wood, the footbridge traverses the River Reuss diagonally, and its gorgeous interior paintings depict several scenes from Lucerne’s history. The beautiful bridge suffered fire damage in 1993 and several of the paintings were destroyed at the time but have now been lovingly restored. The bridge stands as a symbol for the city and its central Water Tower and the bridge with masses of colourful hanging flowers – are emblematic of the city’s beauty. 

The smaller, less well-known Chaff Bridge is not to be ignored. This bridge also contains a number of panelled paintings although the theme of some of these paintings is death and the ever changing cycle of life. Built later than Chapel Bridge, not only is Chaff Bridge shorter, the purpose of its building was to connect the flour mills to the Old Town. Bread was made in bakeries in the New Town, to lessen the chance of a fire breaking out in the Old town, and the Chaff Bridge was an important means of connecting the people of Old Town with an important source of sustenance.

4. Swim in the Lake at Ufschötti

If you are a sun worshipper and crave the feel of a sandy beach between your toes, then look no further – a dip in Lake Lucerne is possible during the summer months at the swathe of green space known as as the Ufschötti. The park is south of Lucerne’s main train station and consists of a strip of sand 200 metres long, adjacent to the Lake. Have a picnic in the green space behind the beach, shaded by trees or enjoy a barbecue. During the summer months, a beach bar serves hot and cold drinks. Other amenities include toilets as well as showers to be used after a refreshing dip in the Lake. Sip on a cold drink and look onto the beauty of Lake Lucerne, shrouded by mountains in the background .

5. Visit the painted squares of the old Town of Lucerne

One of the best things about strolling through the Old Town of Lucerne is its pedestrian only streets, enabling the visitor to take their time, drinking in the historical sights – one of which is the incredibly beautiful painted squares scattered about town. Start at the Weinmarkt, originally the site of a fish market, but now pay special attention to the beautiful fountain with its octagonal basin and column made of limestone. Of note are the frescoes on the façade of the Hotel des Balances and also the special fresco depicting the miracle of Jesus turning water into wine. At the Hirschenplatz, you will find the Kornmarkt – a trading hall, a granary and then the Town Hall – in its long history. Do pay attention to the facades of the historical houses in the square. The Mühlenplatz is Lucerne’s largest historic square, but it is Kapellplatz that is home to the colourful Fritschi Fountain. 

6. Go shopping at one of the many excellent 2nd Hand clothing shops in Lucerne

1.FIZZEN Lucerne

Mixture of well curated fashion pieces, both brand new and vintage plus accessories and unique gifts make this a must visit in Lucerne. They have outlets in Basel, Bern and Zürich too.

2. The Secondhand

At The Secondhand there is a nice selection of second-hand clothing for women and men.The Secondhand also conducts workshops where you learn how to patch or even color your favorite piece.

3. Ziitlos

Second Hand: quite retro

In the Ziitlos branches at Mythenstrasse 7 in Lucerne and Industriestrasse 17, the name says it all. Here everyone who is looking for the very special outfit from days past in Lucerne or wants to browse for cool unique items will find what they are looking for. Stylish home and fashion accessories can also be discovered in the small, fine second hand shops.

For a few francs more..

Swiss Transport Museum

One of Switzerland’s most popular museums, the Swiss Transport Museum is dedicated to documenting and exhibiting all things related to modes of transport – cars, trains, boats and aircraft. The presence of a planetarium and a cinema complete the museum experience. Exhibits include various reconstructions of Swiss rail lines, examples of road vehicles, a Car Theatre, a Space exhibit house, various Swiss aircraft, aerial cableway exhibits, and lastly a collection of artworks by Swiss artist Hans Erni. Swiss Travel Pass holders get up to 50 % discount for museum entry.

Day trip from Lucerne- Mount Rigi

Adored by writers, poets and painters , the majestic Mount Rigi occupies a special place in the heart of locals and classic tourist literature and is the perfect day trip from Lucerne.

I recommend grabbing lunch to go from the excellent local Bachmann bakery at Lucerne train station before hopping on the train to Arth-Goldau. From there, you can transfer to the historic cogwheel train, Europe’s first mountain railway that dates back to 1871. The journey to the top of Rigi Kulm takes around 30-40 minutes with great panoramic views over the lake, passing a few dozen grazing cows and working farms from you sit in the comfort of the beautifully restored historic carriages.

From the top, the views are spectacular. On a clear day, from Rigi Kulm you can see Matterhorn and even as the Black Forest in the distance. There is a range of fantastic hikes from the Rigi Kulm or you can enjoy some classic Swiss cuisine at the Rigi Kulm hotel restaurant. You can then hike down ( takes 3 hours) or take the cogwheel train to Vitznau and then hop on a scenic lake cruise that takes you back to Lucerne. Train to Arth Goldau, the cogwheel train to Rigi Kulm and back to Vitznau and the lake cruise are all covered by the Swiss Travel System pass so definitely recommend investing in the pass.

Top tip: Invest in the Swiss Travel Pass

Where to eat in Lucerne

Bachmann Bakery 

If you are planning a day trip hiking up Mount Rigi or Pilates and looking for a nice lunch sandwich or snack on the go from the train station, Bachmann Bakery which has been serving locals since 1897, is the place to go.

Besides a range of tasty filling sandwiches, if you have a sweet tooth, you can sample local specialities like the local Birnenwegge, a puff pastry with a spiced pear puree filling or the Bündner Nusstorte, a traditional Swiss tart from Graubünden.

Chäs Barmettler

The ultimate bargain for foodies has to be the hot cheescake tartlets aka Chäschüechli which you can buy at Chäs Barmettler for only 2 CHF. It is a must in Lucerne.

Wirtshaus Galliker 

If you are looking to sample traditional Swiss cuisine in Lucerne, this is the place. Serving hungry locals since 1856 the Galliker family’s closely guarded recipes and key to their popularity are a range of dishes on the menu, from Tête de veau, tripe, potato rösti with bratwurst sausages and onion sauce to traditional local puff pastry pies (my choice, served with a mushroom sauce-so good).

Where to Drink in Lucerne

Bar Frankys

If you are looking for friendly service, great cocktails and good music, Franky’s is the place to go to in Lucerne. Located on the ground floor of the Hotel Alpina, not far from the train station, you will find the bar. Besides a great range of spirits, they also service really delicious stone baked pizzas. It is that kind of place where you will make friends and end up having a few beers. This is ,however, a smokers’ bar, a rare exception in smoke-free Switzerland so keep that in mind.

Shamrock Bar

When asking locals, their favorite local bars, Shamrock’s name came up a few times. You stand at the bar, grab a local beer on Guinness on draft if that’s your drink of choice and if you stay long enough, by the end of the night, everyone at the bar and in the pub is your friend – that’s how nice it is. On Mondays they run their legendary chicken wings night where they cost just 1 CHF-bargain for Switzerland.

Chapter Lucerne

If you are looking for a nice bite to eat in the hostel, then you can treat yourself to the excellent flammkuchen (14 CHF)  or pizzas (14-18 CHF) along with a glass of wine (6.80 CHF) or beer (5.50 CHF). Also worth remembering that on Thursdays it is pizza and beer night at the hostel from 5-10pm, for the bargain price of 15 CHF.

1.Buy the Swiss Travel Pass

The Swiss Travel Pass gives you free unlimited use of trains, trams, boats and buses, from 3 to 15 days with purchase of the pass. Tip: Choose the Swiss Travel Flex where you travel unlimited for 3 days in a month (267 CHF). The pass also provides unlimited use of public transport and access for free to 500 museums across Switzerland.

Aside from regional transport, public transport in cities is inclusive too – like buses, trams and funiculars. Another wonderful aspect of purchasing the pass includes 50% off mountain railway tickets. There are a number of different options for buying a specific pass and it’s well worth doing your research and buying a pass that caters to your specific needs. Itineraries for travel on consecutive days are available or the flexible pass option. Passes for 3,4,6, 8 or 15 consecutive days can be bought. One of the main bonuses of having the pass is not having to queue up to buy tickets. This feels very luxurious and certainly lifts the stress of travelling in a new country. People under 26 years get a 30 percent discount on travel.

Some of the advantages of the travel pass include not being tied down to a rigid itinerary. With the flexibility to travel far and wide, this certainly enlarges the scope for travel. Switzerland with its wealth of clear mountain lakes and rugged peaks is the ideal place to explore by boat and mountain railway. With the additional option to visit over 500 museums with the pass, buying a Swiss Travel Pass ensures that visiting Switzerland is an affordable and rich travelling experience.

2. Take the scenic route

The Swiss Travel Pass also includes boat services, allowing you to enjoy a full day of ferry rides on Lake Geneva, Lake Lucerne, or Lake Zurich, all covered by your pass. I hopped on a cruise boat on Lake Geneva on a gloriously sunny early day in Autumn and it was the perfect way to enjoy the stunning landscapes and charming lakeside towns that surround this iconic Swiss-French lake. Popular stops on the cruise include Vevey (birthplace of Chaplin), Montreux plus a magical view of the medieval fortress, Chillon Castle near Montreux.

3. Have a picnic on the train or boat

Most train stations in Switzerland have a Coop or Migros supermarket where you can load up on local cheese, sushi or salads, hot food section (Veggie Calzone for €3) plus an extensive selection of Swiss chocolate. Must try is Rivella – a typically Swiss, milk-based fizzy drink.

4. Stay in a hostel

If you are on a budget, Hostelling is the way to go. My favorites are the Bogentrakt Hostel in Chur ( Chur is a lovely wee town that you should definitely consider for your next trip to Switzerland- checkout my recent guide on Free things to do in Chur  ) , the Capsule Hotels Switzerland are a fantastic small chain that offers spacious, comfortable Japanese pod style beds where you can enjoy your own privacy at the fraction of a cost of a room: You can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden and at any of their other locations , include Lucerne and Basel

Checkout my review of the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden in my brand new guide on how to enjoy Zurich on a budget

5. Lower your average daily costs and cook your own meals

Eating out, along with alcohol will be your two major expenses in Switzerland. Luckily, many of the hostels will have their own self catering kitchen so you can prepare your meals and lunches. One of our favourite travel accessories is a good Tupperware box where we can store sandwiches and I also travel with my Indian spices in case we want to whip up a curry.

6. Sleep in Straw

Checkout ‘Sleeping in Straw’, a service where travellers and hikers can sleep in barns of farms across Switzerland for as little as 30CHF including breakfast!

7. Use a reusable water bottle 

The opportunities to refill your bottle are endless in Switzerland thanks to their excellent public fountains: Zurich alone has 1200 public fountains!

8. Try 100 types of biscuits at the Kambly Factory

Skip breakfast, lunch and visit the Kambly factory store in the picturesque village of Trubschachen which has 100 biscuit varieties to choose from, with free samples!

9. Free museums in Switzerland (and free chocolate)

The Swiss Travel Pass gives you free access to 500 museums. This includes Maison Cailler in Broc, Switzerland’s oldest chocolate brand where you can indulge in multiple free tasting opportunities including the infamous all-you-can-eat selection of Cailler chocolates.  Many museums in Switzerland are free: CERN in Geneva and the Nature Museum in Solothurn for example. Some cities offer free access to museums and galleries on certain days. Most museums in Zurich offer free entry on Wednesdays.

10. Hike to work off all the chocolate and cheese

With all that free chocolate and biscuits, you will need to walk it off and luckily, Switzerland’s offers 65.000 kilometres worth of hiking trails. To plan your hike, use the Schweizmobil website or download their app

11. Don’t drink

One way to save money in Switzerland is by avoiding alcohol. A beer will cost around 8 CHF while a mixer or cocktail will set you back by 15 CHF.

12. Free public transportation in Switzerland

In various Swiss cities, complimentary access to local public transportation network is extended to guests. Upon your check-in at lodging establishments in Bern, Basel, Lucerne, Lausanne, Montreux, Geneva, and throughout the entire Canton of Ticino, you will be provided with a pass that grants you unrestricted use of local transport for the duration of your visit. In Chur, you get access to local museums and also their very scenic outdoor swimming pools too.

13. Rent a bike 

Riding a bike may be one of the most eco-friendly ways to get from one point to another in a city or for exploring the outskirts of the city in a slow but contemplative way. Swiss cities like Zurich, Bern, Geneva, Neuchâtel, Zug or the Canton of Valais, have the option of renting a bike for absolutely free! In Geneva, ‘Züri rollt’ provides bikes with a valid ID and a 20 CHF refundable deposit to rent a bike for a day, or in some cases – a few hours. E-bikes and cargo bikes are available for 30CHF/day. The main bike station is at Zurich Main Station at Europaplatz. Bikes are available daily, all year round from 8am to 9.30 pm. It’s worthwhile checking out other Swiss cities for bike rental options, which might be cheaper than other transportation options.

14. Take a free walking tour

In Switzerland, major cities like Zurich, Geneva, and Bern have free walking tours. Here are a few tips on finding and enjoying free walking tours in Switzerland.

Free Walking Tours Switzerland

Free Walking Tours Switzerland offer informative and entertaining tours at no upfront cost.

Check the Tourist Information Point

Also check the local tourist information centre in the city you are in. They can provide details about any scheduled free walking tours, including starting points and times.

Check with your hostel

Plus check with your hostel who may run their own free walking tour of the city.

15. Don’t forget: Travel Insurance 

Tourists from EU-/EFTA-countries or United Kingdom (UK) are covered by EHIC scheme to receive medical treatment during their trip to Switzerland (holidays or business trips). Nationals of other countries must have proper Travel insurance to cover the costs of treatment in Switzerland. I recommend Safety Wing 

Disclaimer: This post was made possible thanks to a storytelling project about the Swiss Travel Pass in partnership with the Swiss Travel System and Switzerland Tourism. All views, good and bad, are entirely my own.

Introduction to Zurich

Perched beside the picturesque Lake Zürich, Zürich offers the best of all worlds with its incredible public transport system, a picture postcard old town that unfolds on both side of the Limmat river, tonnes of culture and world class museums that would be the envy of any European city, plus a fantastic bar and clubbing scene – no surprise that the city consistently ranks among the world’s most livable cities. It is also one of the most expensive cities in the world but if you know where and when to go, Zurich has some budget friendly things to do. Curious? Checkout my guide to Zurich on a budget.

Where to stay in Zurich on a budget

Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden 

Situated directly opposite check-in 1 of Zurich airport is the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden with 144 capsules in 8 bedrooms, separate bathrooms, a small gym area and a café area for breakfast, drinks and snacks or just to relax.

If you have a late flight out or arriving late at night and are looking for an affordable and comfortable option to stay in Zurich airport, this is the place. Booked at least a month in advance you can get rates between 60-70 CHF.

Plus, you can get 15% off your stay with the code: CAPSULE15  at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden and at any of their other locations , which currently include Lucerne and Basel

Stacked two high, the capsules are a Japanese style pod bed but designed in Switzerland. You can reserve the bottom bunk pod for an extra few francs. Rooms are mixed gender but there is a women only dorm if you prefer. There is also a capsule for people in wheelchairs and 5 capsules with bigger sliding doors for those with reduced mobility.

There are separate male and female communal toilet/shower rooms plus a disabled toilet/shower room. The capsules have a sliding door which locks and the key is via an app on your smartphone with bluetooth enabled or via a 4 digit pin code which you receive while checking in. In this way you have a key for both the room and your capsule this way.

The capsule on the inside includes a comfortable mattress, lighting, mirror, a couple of clothes hooks, very quiet ventilation system, mural of clouds on the ceiling and Swiss alpine scenes on the interior to give you a nice local feel. There is space under the lower capsule to store your luggage and shoes. They have cable locks if you need, as well as a separate luggage storage room.

The star feature of the hotel is the lounge. There is a host on duty 24-7. There are a bunch of cowering desks with plugs that have great views of the terminal window so a good spot for working and people watching.

A nice selection of wines are available and also cocktails on demand. There is a supermarket in the terminal about a 10 minute walk away but if you are feeling lazy, there are snacks like Pot Noodles available plus they make excellent flammkuchen and pizza from the oven (cookies too).

Breakfast contains cereals, fresh croissants, jams etc. There is a coffee machine too. The full continental breakfast is around 14 CHF.

There are no TV sets on the premises. There are groups of tables where you can play board games or chess with friends. There is also a Book Swap shelf where you can grab a book. The decor is a low key Danish Modern if that makes any sense. All in all, a very relaxed vibe.

Things to do in Zurich for free

1. The Secret Doors of Zurich

This might sound like something out of an Indiana Jones movie… but what if I was to tell you that there are three hidden doors in the heart of Zurich, each a time capsule and a portal into the towns ancient roman history and they only can be accessed with the help of a key…and you can get that key- here’s how.

Hidden in full sight of tourists and locals, hidden in an alley, an underground garage, or beneath the Lindenhof, history buffs can discover archaeological sites throughout Zurich’s Old Town. In these Portals or “archaeological windows” as they are referred to, you can discover relics like the remains of a Roman fort, ancient pile dwellings, and the Ehgraben sewer, each site, a magical insight in how medieval towns handled waste.

Most sites are open to the public for free, including those in the Parkhaus Opéra and Thermengasse. However, a key is needed to access the Ehgraben, Lindenhof-Keller, Stadtmauerkeller, and Brunngasse and you can obtain this key from the Stadthaus (City Hall) at Stadthausquai 17, Counter S, Monday to Saturday (check for hours). You will need to deposit your own ID as security deposit so bring that along. You will also get a map of all the sights for this magical quest.

2. Best viewpoint in Zurich: Hike unto Uetliburg

Popular with locals, hikers and bikers looking for a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, Uetliberg is the perfect escape. Towering 2850 feet above sea level, Zurich’s very own mountain, offers one of the best panoramic views of the city. If you are lucky on a clear day, you get not only stunning views of the city but also of the Alps.

Uetliberg gets busier in late Autumn when thick fog blankets the entire city and also in winter when the hiking trails leading from the summit become popular for sledding.

You have the choice of hiking upto to the summit or if you are not feeling top energetic, there is a short train ride from the main train station and then it is a short hike up to the viewpoint. There is a cafe and bar at the viewpoint if you want a coffee or drink while enjoying those beautiful views.

3. Museums in Zurich you can visit for free

Before we talk about the art, as an architecture nerd I have to tell you, like the Fondation Beyeler in Basel, 1.Kunsthaus Zürich has to be one of THE most beautiful museums in the world. In 2021, David Chipperfield built a light-filled, cuboid extension that is just as much a highlight as the art presented within. Now to the art. The museum houses one of the grandest collections of contemporary art, from the largest collection of Munch paintings outside Norway plus works by Alberto Giacometti, then you will find famous names such as Picasso, van Gogh, and Chagall, Pop Art pieces by Warhol and Hamilton and other artists such as Rothko, Twombly, Beuys and Baselitz.

All this plus a design store, a bar and a “Garden of Art”, makes this museum unmissable.On Wednesdays you can get free admission to the entire collection (except to exhibitions), which also stands for children under the age of 14.

The 2.Kunsthalle Zurich can be visiting for free on Thursdays, from 5pm and if you have the Zurich Card, you get a 20% discount.

The Swiss National Museum in Zurich , also known as the 3.Landesmuseum Zürich is another museum you can visit for free with the Zurich card. It is one of the most important cultural and historical museums in Switzerland. It showcases the country’s rich heritage through extensive collections of artefacts, art, and historical objects, ranging from prehistoric times to the present day. The museum features exhibitions on Swiss culture, archaeology, and art, offering insight into the nation’s diverse history. Its iconic building, a blend of historic and modern architecture is a dream to photograph.

4. Where to eat and drink in Zurich on a budget

a) Cheapest and coolest place for a Drink in Zurich-Edis Weinstube

This bar might be the cheapest place in Switzerland to have a glass of wine at 4CHF. However Edi’s is so much more than that, it is an institution attracting a diverse crowd of older regulars mingling with students and tourists creating this melting pot of ages and cultures. It also functions as a porn art museum where new artists display their work. You will find some playful imagery across the bar so this might not be for everyone. There is also a wine shop, where you can grab a bottle of wine for 9.90 CHF (takeaway available until 10 PM on Fridays and Saturdays). 

b) Ass-bar

On your travels, you often come across a concept, so simple and brilliant and you wonder, how the hell does this not exist everywhere in the world- Let me get you into a little secret that is the Ass-Bar ( (the name is a play on words and in Swiss-German means “edible”), a bakery with a difference. The concept of the Äss-Bar is simple. It is like any bakery but here you will find here day-old and discounted pastries, sandwiches, pastries and beverages that have been collected from bakeries and food shops across Zurich. Everything is sold at 50% discount of the original price so in terms of value, this is the best value deal in town. Not only is this an affordable source of food for locals and tourists, it is the owner’s way to contribute to the community while reducing food waste. If you see one in Zurich or anywhere in Switzerland, step inside and do your part.

c) Bar Basso

A slice of Italy on the Schanzengraben with their beautiful outdoor terrace, Bar Basso is a relaxed restaurant bar where you can have a nice glass of wine. They serve some of the best pizza in town and it’s also worth trying their shared plates Tavolata from the menu. 

d) Dine at Haus Hiltl, the worlds oldest vegetarian restaurant dating back to 1898!

With over 100 dishes to choose from, pesto pasta, crispy greens, spicy daal to tofu curries, to Thai green curry – every imaginable vegetarian dish is on the menu and can be found at the buffet counter of what many may argue to be the greatest vegetarian restaurant in the world, Haus Hiltl. The mind boggling choice of dishes, salads and desserts on top make this a veritable feast. The food is weighed here by weight so in true Swiss style, food waste is kept to a minimum, a lesson that many buffet restaurants across the world could take a leaf from. Prices are not cheap but average by local standards but the quality of the food, ambience make this unmissable. Plus, did I mention that this is the oldest vegetarian restaurant in the world, dating back to 1898. There are several locations in Zurich. We chose the restaurant on Dachterrasse, which benefits from a beautiful outdoor terrace, which is the perfect place to be on a sunny day. Also, they have a range of refreshing homemade fruit juices and lemonades (I tried the passionfruit -lemonade) that complements the food nicely.

Day Trips : Exploring beyond Zurich

5. Visit Rapperswill

Looking for ideas for a day trip from Zurich? Alpine Garden hotel manager, Sue, a native from the beautiful Rapperswill recommends you visit her home town on the southern tip of Lake Zurich.

A medieval town with mediterranean vibes and a pretty castle towering on a hill that offers panoramic views of the Glarus Alps all the way to the Zurich Oberland, Rapperswill is a dreamy town. Packed with picture postcard alleyways, lots of boutique shopping options, with a great variety of places to eat and drink on their outdoor terraces if the weather is nice. The town is the known as the City of Roses thanks to the 16,000 roses that flower in the rose gardens of the Capuchin monastery bordering the lake and on the “Schanz”.

One of the coolest features of the town is the half-mile-long, 8.2-foot-wide wooden bridge that connects Rapperswill across the narrowest point of the lake to the neighbouring town of Hurden. If you are taking the train from Zurich, I would suggest changing at Rapperswill onto the train to Hurden, so you can walk back along the bridge, following in the footsteps of ancient pilgrims that would walk the very same route on their way to Santiago del Compostela. 

Good to know: The trip to Rapperswill is free with the Swiss Travel Pass and Zurich Card users will need to buy a 4-zone extra ticket that allows you to travel within the entire Zurich transport network.

Tip: For good coffee and cakes, I highly recommend Gioia de Vita (Klugstrasse 10). The Hotel & Restaurant Jakob also comes recommended by native Sue for a drink or bite to eat at their jazzy brasserie.

6. Visit Chur

Another excellent day trip from Zurich is Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland, for its unique blend of historical charm and breathtaking natural beauty. As the gateway to the Alps, Chur serves as a bridge between Germany and Italy, and the starting point of the renowned Bernina Express. The city is adorned with lush vineyards, stunning heritage buildings, and is surrounded by picturesque mountains. Here, life moves at a tranquil pace, encapsulated by the local word ‘Patgific,’ which means calm and relaxed. Chur also has a fascinating, albeit dark, history. It was home to the famous artist HR Giger, known for creating the iconic Alien, and housed Switzerland’s most notorious prison, now transformed into the modern and stylish Bogentrakt Hostel. This hostel, run by Marco, is a sustainable haven perfect for remote workers. Additionally, Chur offers fantastic local cuisine and vibrant bars, catering to a wide range of interests. Whether you’re an avid hiker, a fan of Giger, a train enthusiast, or simply seeking a taste of the ‘patgific’ life, Chur has something to offer every traveler. Piqued your curiosity? Here is my guide to the best things to do in Chur

7. Further day trips from Zurich

Other excellent day trips from Zurich include Basel and Lucerne. They also are great cities to visit in their own right so do checkout my guide to Basel on a budget and Lucerne on a budget.

8. Top tip: Invest in the Zurich Card to save money on public transport plus free access to museums

Zürich has one of the best public transport systems in the world that includes  trams, buses, trains, and boats. Everything runs like a clockwork, making it easy to hop anywhere within the city or make a day trip to places like Uetliburg. If you are looking to save money, I highly recommend investing in the Zürich Card.

The Zürich Card offers tourists and locals convenient access to many of Zürich’s attractions. It provides unlimited travel by tram, bus, train, boat, and cableway within the city and surrounding regions. This includes free travel between Zürich  Airport and the city centre, making it a convenient option for those arriving by plane. It also includes the trip up the Uetliberg and mini lake cruises across Lake Zürich. Additionally, cardholders receive free or discounted admission to museums (such as the Kunsthaus Zürich and the Swiss National Museum) access to a variety of leisure activities, and discounts at selected restaurants and shops. The card is available for either 24 or 72 hours, making it a flexible option for exploring Zürich with ease. You can find more details at Zürich Card.

If you are a train geek and planning a big trip to Switzerland, you may want to checkout my guide to Switzerland on a budget.

9. FAQ: Zürich Budget Travel

Q: Is Zürich expensive? 

A: While Switzerland is known for high costs, our guide proves budget travel is possible with smart planning. Stay at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden ( don’t forget to use this discount code CAPSULE15 to get  15% off your stay at the Capsule Hotel Alpine Garden and at any of their other locations , which currently include Lucerne and Basel, ) take advantage of the free opening hours of museums, hike up Uetliburg, go tubing down the river in the summer- best things in Zurich can be enjoyed without breaking the bank.

Q: How can I save money on food in Zurich? 

A: Try places like Äss-Bar, Haus Hiltl, and take advantage of buffet-style restaurants.

Q: What’s the best way to get around? 

A: The Zürich Card offers unlimited public transport and additional discounts and is the best thing you can invest in to save money when visiting Zurich.

Disclaimer: Prices and availability may vary. Always check current information before traveling.

As they would say in Scotland, it was blowing a hoolie on the North Sea. After being tossed around all night like tiddlywinks in rough seas, by the time we approached dawn, the waves flatlined and a calm, cold blue eyed morning greeted us as the DFDS cruise rolled into Newcastle. 

So yeah. Why the hell am I here? (other than the pure love of slow travel and storms at sea) Well, I was on the verge of a footballing pilgrimage of sorts, to some of the greatest football cities of Great Britain.

I would start first in Glasgow, then Newcastle, then onto the great rivals of Newcastle – Sunderland, then onto Liverpool and finally Manchester. So, a distinctly northern flavour. Over the course of a week, I had one key aim – to decipher what makes football so great in Britain and why people are so mad about this beautiful game.

I think I should start by asking myself.

Why is football so special to me?

I grew up near Manchester in a place called Oldham. And in the late eighties, Liverpool was the team. There was only Liverpool and Everton. Manchester United and Manchester City were in the doldrums. 

Plus, it was the era of Barnes, Dalglish and Rush. These were the 3 most fearsome forwards of their era. Then we had Alan Hansen in defence. It was a great Liverpool team to watch.

I think I was 6 years old when I watched the Merseyside derby on TV. I was immediately hooked, and I’ve never looked back since. It’s been a lifelong addiction and passion. I think briefly when I went to India, I lost the passion and became hooked on cricket. However, the moment I set foot back on British soil and went to university in Scotland, I started watching Liverpool again, and it just came flooding back. The passion, the love of the game. It was always there.

Since leaving Britain in 2012 and embarking on my nomadic journeys across the world, football has been my lifeline to Great Britain, to my identity of being British. Wherever I go in the world, I try to watch the Liverpool games at supporters clubs around the world. I’ve made so many friends thanks to following Liverpool. However the best thing, when I see Anfield on TV and I hear the anthem, You’ll Never Walk Alone, it just brings back all the memories of my childhood and all the emotions, the face of my father and friends I have met along the way. Football is my connection to Britain and to me. After the disillusion of Brexit, this trip would be a way of reconnecting with my British roots and a more innocent, version of myself.

1. Glasgow

‘Some people think football is a matter of life and death. I don’t like that attitude. I can assure them it is much more serious than that” 

Bill Shankly

I start my pilgrimage way up north on the south side of Glasgow. It is a typical wet, dreich day. The faint drizzle gets heavier as a thick gust swirls across the thick clumps of uneven turf and eats into our skin. There is no protection from the elements. We are standing on the edge of the Queens Park Recreational Ground. To most casual observers or passers by this would be the most nondescript field and patch of grass, except that this is no ordinary field. The haloed piece of turf is where THE first game of football was ever played, back in the Victorian era.

Just a few steps away, we walk upto the Queens Park Bowling Club, which at first sight, may not look much, but you are now looking at the worlds first ever purpose built football stadium that could hold 20,000 back in its day. These are just one of the many amazing facts you will discover on the incredible Three Hampdens  Tour, led by the warm, articulate and passionate Lindsey Hamilton.

‘If you ever go to the Fifa museum in Zurich, you will see them say that the history of football started in 1864 with the formation of the Football Association which is the English football association. We would argue that the game started well before that, here in Scotland, not a bunch of English guys in a pub!’

Lindsey Hamilton, Glasgow Football Tours

We hop across the road to the second Hampden Park stadium, which most people will know as Cathkin Park, once home to Third Lanark FC. 

The park, while still in use for local community football is barricaded on all sides. It might have been the weather but I felt very sad, at the dilapidated state of what was once the Scottish national football stadium, the terraces surrounding it, now thick with overgrown weeds, nature having replaced the vast empty spaces. 

Cathkin Park is a parable of what football has become. While at the top of the pyramid, rich clubs thrive in the era of hyper-commercialisation raking in billions of revenue from everything from naming rights to t-shirt sales, you have on the flip side, hundreds of historic clubs, community clubs that are on the verge of bankruptcy and extinction. Is the beautiful game is in danger of losing its spirit and soul? Still, with all its good and bad, many will argue that football has an important role to play in today’s society.

Cathkin Park is home to the Jimmy Johnstone Academy, a local community grassroots football club. While visiting Cathkin Park we were fortunate to visit the academy and learn about their various projects that include Freedom from torture, where former torture survivors who recently have arrived in Scotland have the opportunity to play football and rebuild their lives and improve overall mental wellbeing. I had the chance to sit down with Rabin Omar, a professional football player who has also been here working with the Jimmy Johnson Academy since he was 13 years old. I was curious to hear his perspective of local football culture 

‘I mention passion but football is more of a religion here in Glasgow. You see how locals follow their team, week in week out and how it sort of flows through their life on a daily basis. They will live, breathe and think about their clubs most of the day.’

Rabin Omar

Lindsey agreed with Rabin on how football is a metaphor for life in Glasgow. 

‘I think in Glasgow, it’s been ingrained in us since the beginning of time. We are obsessed with football. I think it comes from the fact that it is just such an easy sport for people to go to, just start playing in a park, and it just kinda grew from there.

I think football is just life for me as a Glaswegian. Like, I don’t mean that in, like, a whimsical sense. I mean, like, it’s ups and downs, the same way that life is. And that’s how I always see things, you know. I literally live my life, if I’m having a tough day, tough morning, or even something annoying has happened. I’m like, give me 2 halves. And it’s like a reset. You just go again.’

Lindsey Hamilton

The tour appropriately finishes with a pint of the local Tennents at the fantastic Rose Reilly Pub, a pub dedicated to Scotland’s sole World Cup winner.

Tourist essentials

You can book Lindsey Hamilton’s brilliant Three Hampdens Walking Tours via her website. Tours last 2 hours and cost £15 for adults and £5 for kids.

Just like football, the weather in Glasgow was a game of 2 halves. Morning, absolutely shite, drizzling rain and grey, afternoon – blue skies and beautiful sunshine. It was perfect weather for a wander through the west end of Glasgow. Packed with vintage shops, art galleries, fabulous restaurants, a great bar scene and some breathtaking architecture, the West End of Glasgow is a must on any visit to Glasgow. Definitely make time for the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (Argyle Street), probably the best free museum in Scotland and the UK, from its Ancient Egyptian artefacts to amazing animal displays. If you are a Liverpool fan and looking to watch their games, hop later to The Record Factory (17 Byres Road ), which is the home of Liverpool fans in Glasgow. Great atmosphere, nice staff plus reduced drinks prices during the games. If you are hungry and looking for some scran, you can hop into the University Cafe (87 Byres Rd) few doors away where you can get your fish and chips (£7.50) fix or if you dare, follow in the footsteps of Anthony Bourdian and try the deep fried Mars Bar, £3.50 ) and deep fried egg. Or you could sample another iconic Scottish dish, Haggis Neeps (turnip) and Tatties (potato- £13.95, vegan version available) at Rab Ha’s (83 Hutcheson Street) in Merchant City.”Rab Ha”, short for Robert Hall, lived in the area in the 19th century and was infamous for his love of fine food, earning him the moniker, the Glasgow Glutton!

2. Newcastle

‘Unlike other towns and cities in the UK, our stadium is right in the city centre so it forms part of the fabric of the city, not just metaphorically but literally.’

Eddy Hope, Tyneside Life

When you come to Newcastle, the first thing I notice is how the city revolves around the stadium, St James Park which is slap bang in the heart of the city. It literally takes us a 15 minute walk to reach the stadium from the train station. Along the way, we visit a terrific football memorabilia shop, The Back Page, on St Andrew’s Street. If you want to get a first hand taste of Newcastle Geordie culture and an insight into the history of the city, the club, then this shop/fans museum is an essential stop. 

The scale of the passion and support for the club becomes apparent to me when I see the number of bars and pubs. Newcastle enjoys the highest concentration of football pubs within a half mile radius of any football stadiums in Britain – 108 to be precise.

We visit a few of them, the Newcastle Arms and another local favourite, Rosie. We make a quick pitstop at the German inspired beerhall, Wunderbar, which is an enormous venue and then finish at probably the most famous Newcastle supporters bar of the lot – The Strawberry, which has been sitting right across from the stadium since 1859. The pub truly reflects local devotion to the black and white stripes, with pictures of Newcastle footballers past and present. If you can’t get match day tickets, the next best thing is to watch the game at the Strawberry. You will hear the roar of football fans from the pub and if the team wins, then it will be utter bedlam in the pub.

For football fans the 1.5-hour tour of St. James Park is must. Spend time going behind the scenes of where the real matches take place at the park. Gain access to areas that aren’t normally open to anyone but players, coaches, and officials. Get a chance to slip into the media suite, and see where players and managers are interviewed before and after games. Plus, you can even sit in your favourite players spot in the home locker room.

Tourist essentials

Obviously beyond St James Park, there are the various statues outside it (Shearer, Bobby Robson, Jackie Milburn), and the little Alder Sweeney memorial garden to remember the two fans who died on the MH17 flight. 

Then there’s The Strawberry pub which I mentioned, just opposite the ground which is a traditional meeting point for fans.

There’s a terrific football memorabilia shop, The Back Page, just a stone’s throw away, on St Andrew’s Street. There’s a couple of wall murals, one off Northumberland Street, celebrating NUFC legends, and one on Morden Street, remembering Ish Bamba, a project worker for the Newcastle United Foundation. And finally there’s the Castle Keep itself, from which the football club takes its logo.

Other essentials. Do make time to visit the stunning Grey Street which has some of the finest examples of Georgian era architecture anywhere in Britain and was named after former Prime Minister Earl Grey, yes the very same person who was responsible for introducing Earl Grey tea to the country. Go for a walk along the Quayside, if time permits pop into the BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art and also to nearby Ouseburn Valley, once the cradle of the industrial revolution on Tyneside and now a hub for the creative arts and also home to several outstanding independent pubs where you can sample great food, find live music and comedy acts throughout the week.

Finish off with dinner at the Thai House Cafe ( 93 Clayton Street ) in the city centre. Food portions are huge, all mains are below a tenner and the quality of food, and taste was outstanding. Sabrina tried their beef noodle soup and broth which was excellent, beef well cooked and tender while I had their massaman curry which was flavourful and so tasty. 

3. Sunderland

All the great sports are defined by their intense rivalries. In Britain, especially in the industrial heartlands, the rivalries take on a life of their own, fuelled by a heady cocktail of history, geography, and sheer passion. While many may argue Rangers – Celtic to be the most intense rivalries, the two cities of Sunderland and Newcastle upon Tyne, separated by 12 miles (19 km), can lay claim to be one of British football’s harshest rivalries. The history of the Tyne – Wear derby is a modern-day extension of a rivalry between the two cities that harks back to the English Civil War merchants in Sunderland became a Parliamentarian stronghold in protest against the advantages enjoyed by their counterparts in Royalist Newcastle.

While it was almost impossible to get hold of tickets in Newcastle live (or any Premier League club unless you want to pay €€€€ ), I did manage to get tickets for a Sunderland match, thanks to a partnership between the club and DFDS Seaways. The two clubs have enjoyed contrasting fortunes with Sunderland suffering successive relegations while Newcastle’s fortunes have soared with the recent Saudi takeover. A short hop by train from Newcastle, the match day experience was a refreshing break from the razzmatazz of Premier league football. We land at noon and head to probably the most legendary of all Sunderland pubs, The Colliery Tavern. 

On match day it gets lively early on with lots of passionate locals piling in for a few pints. We grabbed a pint of Carling and found ourselves chatting soon to Guido and Bastian from Germany who had come to see the match. Both passionate football fans, they love to catch football games across various countries in Europe. When I asked them if they had a favourite country for watching football besides Germany they mentioned Britain.

‘The history of the clubs here, the culture surrounding it, the passionate fans, the quality of football and the locals create a special atmosphere which is something we can relate to.’

They had been really impressed with the friendliness of locals and fans in Sunderland, something we quickly noticed. After a few pints in the Colliery, we headed to the legendary Fans Museum. Located in what was a derelict, former train station, the Fans Museum, the brainchild of Michael Ganley is not your archetypical fan museum. Michael has amassed an extensive collection of Sunderland football memorabilia and even football shirts worn by Maradona and Beckham. The shirts are not just there to be seen. Families, children come in every day asking Michael to wear a football shirt of one of their icons, to which he happily obliges. The museum also shows football matches and on match day is packed to the rafters with often 3 generations of families gathered in the space. 

I come away impressed with the strong sense of community spirit in Sunderland. While the team continues to struggle, the dedication of the fans remains unquestioned. If there was an award for the most passionate fans, Sunderland fans would definitely be up there with the best fans in Britain.

I ask Michael how he would sum up his club in one word and he mentioned a word, I would hear a lot from fans that week.

‘Passion! If I would sum up my club in one word I would use something written on the back of my shirt- Passion. It’s passion. Passion in belief. Passion in disbelief, but it all comes under one roof. Whatever the outcome of today, there is always tomorrow and that’s the passion. We never walk away from our beliefs and our true love, really and that’s how you would sum our football club and city.’

Michael Ganley, The Fans Museum

Sunderland lost 1-0 to Millwall that day. It was not the greatest game to watch. One of the highlights was half time grub when I treated myself to chips with curry sauce. So good. 

Still, people. I left with only the best memories of all the warm, friendly passionate locals we met.

Tourist Essentials

The Nexus Tyne and Wear Metro provides a service between Newcastle upon Tyne to Sunderland every twenty minutes. Board a train heading in the direction of South Hylton and disembark at Sunderland or directly at the Stadium of Light.

4. Liverpool

“Liverpool is the pool of life, it makes to live.”

Carl Jung

Liverpool. I emerge from the train station, serenaded by seagulls, the air smelling of diesel, fish and tar. In the distance I can see the dark greyish blue blur of the Mersey, swirling amongst the skyline of the famous waterfront architecture. Even though I have never lived in Liverpool, it feels like home. I have the same sense of familiarity when I visit Hamburg. Maybe, I have a thing for port cities. Places where you have a bit of grit rubbed in with some glamour. After dropping off our bags I go for walk around the city centre and waterfront. Liverpool One. The spectacular array of old and new architecture that is concentrated around the dock that would be the envy of any modern city.

Then there is the Beatles connection. We pop into the Beatles Story Museum. From childhood lives to their first hellos, at the Beatles Story Museum you can learn about the band’s life before their glory days. Spot the stars as young boys in black and white family photographs. See the instruments from their early days – when their passion for music first ignited. Look back at their transformative years when they took to the stage as the modest Quarrymen before blossoming into the Beatles.  It’s packed with memorabilia, such as John Lennon’s glasses, Ringo’s drums and George’s first guitar, as well as recreations of key locations like The Casbah and Cavern Club and Abbey Road Studios. 

I pause for a moment to enjoy the architecture of the Museum of Liverpool which was designed to resemble the trading ships that once dominated the harbour. At the far end of the waterfront, I find the beautiful bronze statue of the four Beatles standing in front of the majestic Royal Liver Building, once the tallest building in Europe. From the waterfront, it is a short walk through the fabulous Liverpool One before reaching the most iconic street of the city, Matthew Street. It is a narrow alleyway that was once bustling with tradesman. However, in recent decades it became a hub of nightlife and home to the most iconic Cavern Club, where the Beatles had their first break. The club hosts a roster of live bands from 11am everyday and is a must see when in Liverpool. Entry tickets cost just 5 pounds. 

Liverpool’s other legendary export is of course football. Every club boasts that their fans are the best and after meeting fans from Glasgow, Newcastle and Sunderland, it is tough to argue against that but… Liverpool fans are truly a unique species. The first and only time I went to see a game at Anfield, the noise in the terraces was something different. Everywhere I walked in the city, there was a buzz about the place and the club… you can feel the passion of the fans. There is a strong sense of identity, set of values that comes with being a Liverpool supporter. Fans are proud of the club’s working-class roots and the spirit of solidarity that characterises Liverpool as a city. I asked Liverpool superfan and Beatles tour guide, Dale Roberts about what makes Liverpool fans so special 

My city and my club is different. I don’t think there’s any city on earth like Liverpool. What makes Liverpool different is the fact that we’ve accepted difference. Liverpool is a melting pot of communities and cultures. There’s so many different types of people, so many different types of ideas. And I love the line that Gerry Marsden said, not in You’ll Never Walk Alone, but in Ferry Cross the Mersey. He has a line in the song, which is 

we don’t care what your name is, boy. 

We’ll never turn you away.’

Dale Roberts, Liverpool Eco Tours

And that epitomizes Liverpool for me.

Liverpool is all-embracing. It is all-encompassing, but it is different because it has its own unique ideology, it has its own unique culture, but it’s got that unique culture by accepting so much else.

The Anfield Stadium tour is a must as part of any pilgrimage to Liverpool, even if you’re not a die-hard football fan.

The guides with their razor sharp Scouse wit are entertaining and informative. Highlights of the tour of course include the chance to enjoy epic views of the Anfield pitch from the top level of the Main Stand, a visit to the state-of-the-art home team dressing room and of course the chance to walk through the players tunnel and pass, touch the iconic This is Anfield sign and get a photo in Klopp’s seat in the dugout. The tickets also include entry to the Club’s interactive museum – The Liverpool FC Story, with nearly 130 years of Club history plus all the silverware including all six European trophies. After the tour, I would also recommend a walk around Anfield to see all the beautiful murals of Liverpool players, past and present.

Tourist Essentials

For Beatles fans, two pubs I highly recommend (Cheers to Dale for the introduction) is the Ye Cracke (Rice Street), the pub that John Lennon used to frequent with his wife Cynthia when he was a student at the arts college around the corner of the pub. The walls are covered with Liverpool- and Beatles-themed paraphernalia alongside some local art of variable quality. When we visited, there were a few locals in but it was quiet, not many tourists. Second must visit pub, right from the Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra is the flamboyant ‘Phil’ aka The Philharmonic Dining Rooms (36 Hope Street) where Paul McCartney did a secret gig on the James Corden’s The Late Late Show and even Buddy Holly performed. It is a stunning wood panelled pub, with ornate furnishings and the most beautiful toilets you will ever see in a pub.

5. Manchester

Separated by just 35 miles, Manchester enjoys a lot of key similarities with Liverpool – striking architecture, rich musical heritage, tons of culture and things to do, great nightlife and of course their passion of football. Despite all their similarities, the rivalry between the cities, the clubs and the locals is fierce. Not as fierce as Glasgow but still, its a rivalry that defines the cities, especially given the rise of Manchester City over the last decade. The city is now home to not one but two of the biggest clubs in Britain and the world: Manchester United and Manchester City. Both share an intense rivalry with Liverpool but many would argue, including myself, that United remains Liverpool’s biggest rivals. The rivalry goes back decades and may have started with the building of the Manchester Ship Canal in 1894 or from the industrial era fallout between Mancunian industrialists and Liverpudlian merchants.

Personally, while I loathe both Manchester clubs as any Liverpool fan would, I love both cities. Having grown up near Manchester, a big part of my childhood was spent here. As our paths have diverged over the last few decades, on every visit, I see something new and leave amazed, always wanting to stay longer. One of the areas I love coming back to and rediscovering is the Northern Quarter, with its glut of creative and alternative flair that reminds me a bit of Kreuzberg or Shoreditch. We start with an incredible brunch at Pot Kettle Black, a northern take on Australian breakfast culture. The food, service is top notch and such a nice lively vibe – great place to start the day. We then pop into the fun and colourful fashion boutique, Thunder Egg whose clothing indulges in our nostalgia for trends from the past decades, from vintage frocks to noughties fashion trends. From there it is a short hop to the world famous Afflecks, which has been an outlet for independent designers and traders across four floors.

Since we are on a footballing pilgrimage, no trip to the Northern Quarter would be complete without a visit to Classic Football Shirts. What started as a challenge between two friends to source classic football shirts from the last few decades and sell them via internet, became a massive enterprise selling football shirts from across the world from the last 50 years.

Even though I no longer have a record player, I still love the old school and physical feeling of being in a music store, browsing records and listening to them on turntables before almost buying them – if that sounds like you then definitely pop into Piccadilly Records. The staff are super friendly and approachable. It is the kind of place where you get talking to people and that’s how we met the amazing Lydia Huna.

As a proud Mancunian and United fan I had to ask her what she loves about Manchester….

‘Community. I think my favourite thing is that despite all the changes that Manchester is undergoing, and a lot of those changes are not great. You know, they’re corporate and steeped in bureaucracy. I think my favourite thing is the history of community and, you know, the struggle that exists because of the north/south divide and the economic challenges that the north has sustained and faced for decades and decades and decades since forever, that gave people no choice but to congregate and be together and look at one another and come together. And, that ethos still runs true, and it pervades in, I think, most Manchester culture, all Mancunian culture, northern culture in general. Like, you just step into a shop like this, and immediately, like, you’re confronted with the culture, and the people. Like, I come in here and immediately start singing. I don’t even know what his name is. He just goes by Pasta Man. I don’t know what Pasta Man’s name is. I just think of him as Pasta Man. 

(Man behind counter: Oh, that’s Paul Pasta.)

….Oh, it’s Paul, Pasta Paul, oh, there we go. But, nevertheless, like, I’ll refer to people by their nicknames before their actual names because you’re confronted with that before anything else. And, just, yeah, like, the prevailing sense of, where these connections take you. Like, Matt works at White Hotel. He does like, runs gigs there. I’ve got a whole community of friends there. It’s so close knit. Some might say incestuous. Manchester is lovely. It is wonderful plus that was a very long answer.’

The topic then turned to football and I had to ask her how she fell in love with her club. 

‘They made a film called Bend It Like Beckham in the 90’s which is synonymous with my childhood like Man United. Like, those glorious summers and knowing that David Beckham was playing, I think that’s how I fell in love with it, but I also fell in love with it because my dad was a Man United fan. I think, through my dad and through the kids that I went to school with and playing football as a kid in the garden with my dad and, yeah, rocking a t shirt with a big 7 on the back of it.

Initially, the world was red. I am Manchester United through and through. We haven’t been doing so good in the Premier Leagues for some time now, but, nevertheless, it’s Manchester United till I die. And real Mancunians support United. Don’t listen to what those City boys say. It’s not true. ‘

Tourist Essentials

If you could not get tickets to the game but want to watch the football in a nice pub – I have 3 tips for you. Try the Tib Street Tavern (74 Tib Street) in Northern Quarter – good grub, ok priced drinks, BOX Deansgate (125 Deansgate) bit more modern, lots of screens and outdoor seating and finally The Lost Den (144 Deansgate), a warm and welcoming gastro pub right in the heart of Deansgate. Also if you are a Manchester United fan, you have to pop into The Old Nags Head (19 Jacksons Row) this is THE ‘George Best’ pub, lots of football memorabilia. Non football pubs that are definitely worth a visit are: The Peveril of the Peak and The Temple.

Also if you are United fan, definitely consider staying at Hotel Football, overlooking the Old Trafford stadium. Owned by former players Ryan Giggs, Paul Scholes, Nicky Butt, Phil Neville and Gary Neville, it has a rooftop 5-a-side football pitch, in-house restaurant and basement sports bar.

They have packages where for £109 ( £139, double occupancy) you can book a package which gives you a room in the hotel with Class of 92 themed toiletries & complimentary retro treats in the mini bar, 2 course dinner in their in-house restaurant and buffet breakfast.

Conclusion

Initially, this week my world was green or blue. Then black and white. Then red and white.Then red.Then red again.Then light blue.

One week. 5 cities. It was a breathless trip, maybe a little too rushed in the end. When we were hopping back on the plane, I had the feeling of wanting to stay longer. A pilgrim’s journey never ends. While it was hard to describe the emotions of all the places, all the people we met, the trip was definitely a reminder of the good stuff that makes Britain such a wonderful country to visit. Don’t believe the doom mongers. With all the ills and pains of Brexit, Britain remains a great place to visit. That is all thanks to the people, their warmth, the witty humour and of course, their passion.

Whatever you make of the divided loyalties, the tribalism, the religious zest,  the incestuous love for their clubs, after this trip, the one thing that for me stood out when I try to summarise football culture in Britain and all the people we met, was the sheer passion. A passion borne from generations of families supporting a club, a passion born from long hazy summers in the garden playing with their Dad, a passion born from the love of their community and how you stand together in the eye of any storm, the unswerving loyalty to your identity and that unspoken rule of staying true to who you are. Call it old fashioned, call it foolish, call it romantic, wherever your loyalty lies, football in Britain exerts a magical almost mythical hold on us. There are no words to describe it. That’s why I guess they call it the beautiful game?

Disclaimer

This video was made possible thanks to the kind support of Visit Britain but all the views, good and bad are entirely my own.