While some prefer the road less travelled, I tend to find that with age, I return to the roads well travelled. Every time I go back to a place filled with good memories, even though the places may have stayed the same, I find that I have changed, so the memory is always renewed and refreshed. I am always discovering something new. The best places exist in many layers like an unfurling onion that has a habit of slowly unravelling, revealing it’s various layers over time. Leipzig is one of those cities which keeps on peeling back its layers of history, revealing stories at every twist and turn. Like an invisible vortex, it keeps pulling me back for more. It wasn’t love at first sight. I first came in 2013 and hated it. I didn’t warm to the dreary soviet style architecture and plattenbau, prefab concrete buildings, a hangover from the GDR era. However, on a subsequent visit, many years later, I found myself in the more grungier and alternative district of Plagwitz and just fell in love with the area, the vibe and found the keys to the city.  I’ve also grown rather fond of the grim soviet style architecture in a weird, nostalgic kind of way. 

The street that I keep coming back to and falling in love with, every time is Karl Heine Strasse or KHS as locals call it. If I could afford it, I would live there in a heartbeat. It has become less gritty but there is that whiff of decadence, an edge and enough imperfections that still makes my pulse race. It does remind me of the reason I fell in love with Berlin all those years ago. However, lets be clear, Leipzig is not the new Berlin and is just Leipzig. No hype or more famous doppelgängers required. 

To give some context, Karl Heine is located in the former industrial neighbourhood of Plagwitz, in the city’s west. Originally a small village, which was heavily industrialized in the mid-1850s by the solicitor Karl Heine, post reunification, Plagwitz became the bohemian district of the city and home to lots of artists. It used to be a pretty run down area with lots of semi-derelict buildings with artists squatting in them and a handful of cafes but now the street has cleaned up nicely.

I always base myself around the corner of Karl Heine Strasse in a hostel called Multitude. Technically located in the equally hip neighbouring district of Lindenau but just a 10 minute walk from the beginning of Karl Heine, this is a really homely hostel with lots of light, beds with the perfect mattress for a great night’s sleep, a very spacious self catering kitchen, a good outdoor terrace for relaxing and a great onsite bar with fireplace, which attracts a nice mix of locals. It is one of those hostel that feels instantly like home which is the same way I feel about the city. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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So. Let me rewind to the most recent trip, just a few weeks back. After a quick shop for groceries at the Rewe supermarket next door to the hostel, we dust off the cameras and head off for THE walk. The weather had turned colder that day but after a few days of constant drizzle, the skies were baby blue and the pale sunlight was filtering through the rust rouge leaves, giving off an ethereal glow. The large willow trees arched over our heads in perfect symmetry as we entered Karl Heine, just like the opening pages of a fairytale. It was just pass noon and already a throng of locals were huddled around the tables of some of the cafes.

There is an enormous choice of places to eat in Karl Heine Strasse, so if you are a foodie, this is the street to visit.

It is the perfect day for a hearty bowl of soup and I know just the place – a Moroccan eatery called Salon Casablanca. Lovely well-priced food, lots of vegetarian options, good portion sizes and refreshing mint tea, I love coming here to try their tagines and soups. 

Next stop is Beard Brothers and Sisters, a vintage hole in the wall bar that serves the most scrumptious hot dogs and drinks. I have always wanted to come here in the past based on positive reviews from friends and happily they did not disappoint. Great dog, perfect bun, good range of toppings and sauces, plus if you come in the evening, they have local musicians performing in a small balcony above the bar. The food and the fun does not stop there.

We next visit  Westwerk, a former factory complex that has become the heart of the local creative scene with ateliers for artists, musicians and also home to a wide variety of affordable places to eat

I try Georgian food for the first time at Kleiner Kaukasus and it was so good. Owner Malkhazi prepares the Khachapuri in front of us – warm, soft flatbreads stuffed with molten cheese with a delicious topping of beetroot and cream.This was heavenly, melt in your mouth kind of food. Later in the trip we also popped into the next door Vietnamese diner, Bamboo’s Streetfood where on plastic tools you can sup on a bowl of Pho besides other specialities. Not the best pho but still, a very solid 8 out of 10 option if you are craving Asian flavours. I also have to mention Naumann’s Gaststube. Part of the Felsenkeller, a former ballroom turned live music and arts venue, it is worth visiting just to enjoy the grand interiors of this former neo-baroque building that dates back to 1890. Naumann’s Gaststube serves honest, working class people’s grub and I would highly recommend their schnitzel.

Westwerk is no longer a secret but still retains its creative, hippy vibe with a diverse mix of second-hand shops, artists‘ studios, yoga and tattoo studios, culinary venues such as Kleiner Kaukasus but also large billiard halls like the uber cool Mensa on the top floor. My favourite shop in the complex is Westfach where you find all kinds of beautiful things, from postcards and prints, ceramics, jewellery from local artists plus a great selection of vinyl and vintage items.

Opposite Westwerk, another local landmark I like to checkout for drinks, food and entertainment is the Schaubuhne Lindelfels. Housed in a magnificent Art Nouveau villa straight out of Paris, this functions as a bar by night, (order the house Gin and Tonic) cinema but also acts as a theatre and festival venue. On one of the nights, we were privileged to catch one of the acts at the annual Leipziger Jazz Festival. Sitting there in this 140 year old ballroom really is a magical experience. 

No trip to Karl Heine is complete without a traditional visit to one of the classic Photoautomats. The booth is one of the craziest I’ve ever seen, plastered with stickers, posters and graffiti. The photos are never great here but it is an experience sitting in that booth, a time travel machine of some sort and a connection to previous, younger naive versions of myself.

There are a few great bars on the street to checkout but if you visit just one bar, go to Noch Besser Leben, which means something like ‘Even better Living’. Such a great name for a pub and a sentiment to represent. It’s a favourite for local artists, musicians and students, actually anyone. It has that laidback rough around the edges charm, but is pretty friendly and a great place to meet locals.

At the end of Karl Heine Strasse there is a turning onto the Karl Heine canal path. Stretching for 3.3 kilometres, this is a beautiful walk, anytime of the year. In Autumn, it is especially magical with all the colours and the reflections in the water. Lined with historic villas to modern industrial lofts, the canal is also a great timeline of the city, another form of time travel where you walk from the past, straight into the future.

There are no doubt plenty more memorable places to visit in Leipzig and I’m sure with years to come, I’ll find something new and magical about Karl Heine Strasse. While we travel the four corners to see the world, in some people, places and streets we see the world and that is the magic of Leipzig and KHS for me. 

Disclaimer: My trip to Leipzig was made possible thanks to the kind support of Leipzig Tourismus but all the opinions, good and bad, are entirely mine. Thanks for reading and your continued support.

Located in the North Rhine-Westphalia region of the country Dortmund proudly boasts its status as the country’s football hauptstadt. However, this former industrial giant also has a lesser known side where you can discover a great diverse cultural scene, beautiful green spaces to relax in cool hip neighbourhoods like the Kaiserviertel plus there is a fantastic food and drink scene. In this guide to the best things to do in Dortmund, you will get a feel of what this city has to offer, from its incredible football and industrial culture, to the best places to eat & drink in Dortmund.

1. Westfalenpark

A popular recreational spot in the city is the broad swathe of greenery comprising Westfalen Park. Covering an expanse of 70 hectares it is one of the largest inner city parks in Europe. Some of the key places to visit inside the park include the Florianturm or the TV and Radio Tower, home to the German Rose Society. The Kaiserhain pond, the Forest-of-the-Mills pond with its central open air stage are other places to visit. The park is strewn with beautiful flower beds, fountains, geese, many kinds of birds and wildlife. An ideal place to hike, ride a bicycle or simply enjoy the serenity of nature on a park bench.

Address: An d. Buschmühle 3, 44139 Dortmund

2. Florianturm

The Florianturm is a key highlight of a trip to Westphalen Park and is the landmark TV and Radio Tower. Built in 1959, at the time it was the highest free standing structure in Germany, standing tall at 720 feet. It has a construction design resembling a concrete chimney, with a tapering top. At various levels along the tower there are various features, like a revolving restaurant, upper and lower observation decks and operation rooms. It is the perfect place to gain an aerial view over Dortmund.

Address: Florianstraße 2, 44139 Dortmund

3. Museum Ostwall

The present home of Museum Ostwall is a seven storey tower, known as the U-Tower. It is the museum of modern and contemporary art in Dortmund. The museum’s collection was started in the 1940’s and was moved to the current location around 2010. Some of the treasures of the collection include paintings, sculptures, photographs and objects of interest. Pieces from the collection that are not to be missed include works from Wassily Kandinsky, Franz Marc, August Macke and Alexej von Jawlensky. The Gröppel Collection is another museum highlight. Graphics from Joan Miró, Chagall, Dali and Picasso, also grace the museum.

Address: U-Dortmund, Leonie-Reygers-Terrasse 2, 44137 Dortmund

4. Brewery Museum Dortmund

The Brewery Museum of Dortmund is a museum dedicated to the history of beer brewing in Dortmund, a tradition that dates back to the nineteenth century. Beer tastings and tours are available. The museum is open all days except Monday, although museum tours occur on Sundays. Some of the interesting exhibits on offer include the chance to view vintage brewing equipment and curios from the heyday of beer making. Vintage beer dispensers that dispensed a beer a day to factory workers, bottling machines , packaging and old advertisements are all on display. Dortmund was the home of more than 30 breweries with the glory days of beer making happening in the 1950’s. Anyone interested in the process and history of making beer, will find this an enlightening experience.

Address: Steigerstraße 16, 44145 Dortmund

5.Deutsches Fussball Museum

A good place to start your footballing pilgrimage is the Deutsches Fussball Museum in Dortmund. This vast shrine to the nation’s passion and obsession is a place of pilgrimage not only for German football fans. Inside a futuristic building next to the Hauptbahnhof is an emotional multimedia and sometimes interactive tribute to the game and Germany’s role in shaping its history. Learn about stars such as Franz Beckenbauer, relive historic matches or fancy yourself a commentator. The treasure chamber holds replicas of the four World Cups and three European trophies won by the Mannschaft (Germany’s national team). Online tickets are a couple of euro cheaper.

Address: Platz der Deutschen Einheit 1, 44137 Dortmund

6. Stadium tour at the Signal Iduna Park

If you can’t get tickets to a Dortmund game, the next best thing is to get a tour of the stadium, the Signal Iduna Park. The Signal Iduna Park on Strobelallee is Germany’s largest football stadium with a capacity of exactly 81,365. The stadium is often referred to as the “temple of German football” thanks to the proximity to the pitch, the acoustics thanks to its complete roofing and the unique passion the fans in the Ruhr have for the beautiful game.

The tours allow you to have an extensive look at the stadium’s facilities that are otherwise off the limits. These include the VIP areas, tunnels that lead to the pitch, club museum, press room, and more. The stadium tour is also a chance to to witness the southern terrace, known as the “Gelbe Wand”, “Yellow Wall” where 24,454 fans make themselves heard on this stand.

These tours are run at specific times of the day. Even though there is no special need to register for the tours in advance, it is better that fans do the same if they have special requests. All the tickets can be purchased online and it is not possible to choose a date when matches are held. One can expect the tour to last for around 90 minutes in the basic version, while it would extend to 120 minutes in the PLUS version.

Address: Strobelallee 50, 44139 Dortmund

7. Explore industrial heritage on a skywalk tour through Phoenix West, a former steel works in Dortmund

For over 160 years, the industrial complex of Phoenix West was an icon for the city of Dortmund and the region of North Rhein-Westphalia, whose economy was based on coal and steel. Steel production in Dortmund ended with the closure of Phoenix West in 1998 and Phoenix East in 2001. The former blast furnace works are a reminder of Dortmund’s rich industrial history.

You can enjoy amazing views of the entire Phoenix West industrial heritage complex and the dramatic Dortmund skyline, thanks to a 26-meter-high steel footbridge built over the old blast furnace gas line.  You can also see the stadium, the Florian Tower in Westfalenpark and also the Bergmann brewery.  The Skywalk and the entire Phoenix-West plant are currently only accessible as part of guided tours. Guided tours take place on fixed dates, the number of participants is limited. Tickets can be purchased from the city of Dortmund’s tourism portal. The current price for a tour is 15 euros per person, but experience has shown that the tours are always booked out quickly.

Where to eat and drink in Dortmund

Unterhaltung

8. Head to Dortmund’s Kreuzviertel

If you have time to kill before the game and want to get a snapshot of what local life is in Dortmund, definitely make some time for Kreuzviertel which lies on the way to stadium. It is a colourful neighbourhood brimming with hip cafes and restaurants, lots of independent shops plus a good concentration of bars.

We stopped by kieztortchen, a cute cafe with a very nice outdoor terrace which serves really good cakes plus great coffee.

If you’re looking for a gift with a difference, then the concept store Unterhaltung is a great place to drop by. You will find a whole range of items here, from designer bags and rucksacks to coffee table books, candles, local organic chocolate, craft beers and gin – you will be spoilt for choice.

We did not have time for food but locals recommended Babuschkas Kitchen (Kreuzstraße 69, Dortmund) for their hearty Ukrainian food, from pancakes with different fillings to dumplings and borscht all served in bright, cheerful interiors.

9. Tip: Enjoy a snack and/or a beer at Bergmann Brewery in Phoenix West

Dortmund and beer. It’s like foot and ball or fish and chips. Dortmund was once home to several breweries which earned it the moniker ‘Bierstadt’. While the people of Dortmund no longer spend their monthly wage packet at the pub, beer still plays an important role in the city. While there has been a marked decline in breweries, in 2005 a new independent brewery was born that now dominates the scene in Dortmund: Bergmann beer.

Matching the Ruhrpott DNA, the beer is advertised with the slogan ‘Hard work, honest reward‘. While the miners are no longer here, the culture of the feierabend after-work beer is still popular which is why Bergmann built a brewery right next to the old blast furnace plant on PHOENIX West in Hörde.

As a visitor, you can not only take part in tours of the pitch-black painted brewery – and of course have a sip or two. There is also a food truck on site Thursdays through Sundays .

This post was produced with the kind support of Germany Tourism and Ruhr Tourismus GmBH but all views, opinions are entirely my own.

Berlin has been our base for the last 5 years. It is a city that even after all these years, I’m still discovering. It has so many rich and complex layers of history – there is never a dull moment here. Even though Berlin and Munich are like chalk and cheese with a very different architectural style, history and feel, Berlin too like Munich ( checkout my socially distant yet fun 48 hour Munich itinerary here ) has many wide open green spaces that are a sanctuary in a busy city like Berlin. I thought it would be great to create a guide on the best outdoor activities Berlin has to offer. ( Perfect, if you are visiting Berlin in the summer )

Treptower Park

Despite being a busy, dense metropolis, Berlin is one of Europe’s greenest cities. On the doorstep of Berlin you have the beautiful area of Brandenburg crisscrossed by countless lakes, dense forests and rich and thought provoking pockets of history. I hope you enjoy my Spreewald itinerary but I would also urge you to find the time to visit Potsdam which is also one of the best day trips from Berlin 

PS: If you haven’t already, do checkout my guide to cool things to do in Berlin on a budget, my self guided free walking tour Berlin Mitte , self guided free walking tour of Berlin Wedding, one of Berlin’s upcoming districts. Also definitely checkout Sam Wood’s 15 free things to do in Berlin and if you are person who virtually travels the world through movies, you definitely should checkout my 10 movies that inspired me to visit Berlin 

Day 1

AM-Treptower Park

A good place to start your journey of discovering Berlin is through exploring one of its many beautiful parks. Treptower Park is one of my favourite parks in Berlin, situated in the south-central corner of Berlin, near the river Spree in Alt-Treptow. It’s a treasure trove of many unusual interesting places, each with their own history, that all combine to create a fascinating place. The park has enjoyed  many incarnations. It was originally the site of the Great Industrial Exposition of Berlin of 1896. Later it was also the venue for a large open-air concert by a western band, Barclay James Harvest in 1987, the first of its kind after the formation of the GDR.

The most prominent feature of the park you must see is the monumental Soviet War Memorial (the largest Soviet memorial outside Russia), built to mark the loss of lives of 80,000 Soviet soldiers who perished in the Battle of Berlin in 1945. Not only is the memorial a tribute to the memory of fallen Soviets, it is also the last place of rest for many soldiers.

The Memorial consists of several striking features that include: a statue of a Soviet soldier with a German child, yielding a sword and poised over a destroyed Swastika, a central green landscaped area with 16 stone sarcophagi placed at regular intervals, embellished with relief work of military scenes with Stalin quotes. At another spot, there are also a pair of red granite portals, shaped to resemble the Soviet flag.

The memorial is currently being renovated but the red granite portals are still visible.

Walking along the Spree River, you get a different perspective of the park. You’ll spot the iconic Abbey Bridge arching over the Spree to the Island of Youth or Insel der Jugend. This bridge was the first composite steel bridge of its kind to be made in Germany. Pre-Corona, the island would host events and concerts but in the current day it is a popular place to chill by the river and enjoy a drink in the Island garden. If time permits, you can also rent boats or a canoe and enjoy the park from the perspective of the river.

Lunch: Sahara Imbiss

Prepared with fresh ingredients, Sudanische takeaway, Sahara Imbiss, is one of the Berliners’ favourite cheap eats since 2010. Encased in a freshly toasted pita bed roll, with a choice of fillings ranging from their delicious falafel made on the premises to halloumi, kofta, chicken or fohl beans, all topped up with their signature peanut sauce. For €3, it is a steal. Don’t leave Berlin without eating here.

We dined in their outlet near Treptower Park in Neukolln but they also have 3 separate outlets in Kreuzberg and one in Schöneberg. Checkout their website for more details.

Afternoon- Gardens of the World ( Marzahn Hellersdorf)

Our next stop brings us to the beautiful Gardens of the World-another perfect place to pause, in the midst of this busy city.

Situated on the eastern fringes of the city in the heart of Berlin’s Marzahn neighbourhood, this place really transports you to different world, thanks to the presence of ten very different gardens, which draw inspiration from various countries and cultures across the world.

The Gardens were built in 1987 to commemorate the 750th Birthday of the city. The concept revolves around its variously themed gardens, representing gardening styles from around the globe. Visitors can venture into the Italian Renaissance Garden, the Chinese Garden of the Recovered Moon, Gardens from Bali, the Middle East, Korea and even a Christian themed Garden.

We had limited time and could only visit the Flower Garden, Oriental Garden, the English Garden and the Korean Garden. You could easily dedicate half a day or longer to explore the gardens.

If I was to pick my favourite out of all the gardens, I would say the Oriental Garden. Constructed over 2 years and designed according to the principles of Qu’ran’s Surah, stepping into the gardens transports you to a different world with its arcades, exotic plants, the magnificent water fountains and the exquisite mosaics. For a few moments you could be in Granada, Seville or Marrakech.

Afterwards, I would recommend hopping on the Seilbahn aka Ropeway to get a nice aerial perspective of the gardens. You also get a birds eye view of the infamous Marzahn’s endless string of GDR-era concrete tower blocks – a glimpse into an alternate reality.

Late afternoon: Tempelhofer Feld

If riding an e-bike (with top speeds of 20 mph) on an abandoned airfield sounds like your cup of tea, don’t demur from visiting Tempelhofer Feld.

Historically, this field was used for military practice, as part of the Berlin Garrison’s stomping grounds. Nowadays, it has achieved an alternate purpose.

In the 1920’s an airport was built on this site. Nowadays Tempelhofer Feld is a public park with 386 hectares dedicated to recreational purposes. A cycling and jogging trail, a dog walking area, and plenty of picnic spots for barbecuing during the summer – this is a popular meeting point for Berliners and a must visit during your trip to Berlin.

You can hire a scrooser or e-trike (they also have hoverboards, segways, e-wheels) from Steckdose Berlin. Their rental office is a 200 metre walk from the Tempelhofer Damm entrance close to the S&U-Bahn Tempelhof station.

To give you an idea of costs, for hiring the E-Trikes for 30 minutes, it costs €15 or €25 for an hour.

Sunset drinks at Klunkerkranich

Perfect place to wrap up the day is in Klunkerkranich, an urban beer garden near Karl-Marx-Strasse 66 and the perfect place for sunset drinks. Klunkerkranich (translates to the ‘wattled crane’) has a beautiful rooftop bar where you can nestle in between the fragrant flower boxes and sip on Berlin’s best ale. There’s lots of well spaced out seats so social distancing is not an issue here. The views of Berlin’s red roofs and the TV Tower – ever present in the distance, are the best way to end your first day in Berlin.

Afterparty-Pawn Dot Com Bar and Loft 41

Situated on the party mile of Berlin, Torstrasse, the name Pawn Dot Com is a nod towards the historic roots of the building, which used to function as a royal pawnshop, as the historic inscription above the gate passage reveals. The drinks menu revolves around a novel concept where you can choose from twelve drinks , each of which are served alongside a sideshot, something that ideally complements the main drink. For example you can savour a Pornstar Martini with a glass of champagne served separately. It is a vibrant place with a grungy, graffiti strewn neon lit interior that might be out of a Bladerunner set. Fun place, drinks. Not cheap by any means at around €15 a cocktail but a cool experience and nice friendly bartenders.

Finish your bar crawl with another epic rooftop bar – Loft 14 situated as you may have guessed from the name, the 14th floor of the Vienna House Andel hotel. You get a wonderful view of Berlin’s skyline from this bar and a great selection of classic cocktails served with some tasty popcorn. Again, not cheap (around €15) by Berlin standards but you’re paying for a unique view, ambience and the drink of course.

Currywurst at Curry 61!

Late night snack- Currywurst!

Also, if you are coming to Berlin, you can’t leave without having the city’s iconic dish, the Currywurst. It’s basically a diced up classic german wurst with a lot of ketchup and dollops of curry powder on top – might not sound too appetising but it’s tasty. One of the decent places to try is CurryMitte on Torstrasse (perfect if you are going to Pawn Dot Com) or Curry 61 in Hackescher Markt (Curry 61 also have a decent vegan version).

Day 2

Day trips from Berlin: Spreewald 

A UNESCO biosphere reserve knitted together by 400 km of natural and man-made waterways that are perfect to get lost, Spreewald is the perfect social distancing-friendly day break from Berlin. Just an hour by train from Berlin, with its lush dense forests and thousands of miles of waterways, coming to Spreewald feels like a tropical Amazonian world far away from Berlin.

How to get there

The best way to get to Spreewald is by the RE2 train that leaves on the hour from Berlin Central Station with stops at Alexanderplatz and Ostkreuz. The journey time to Lubbenau is about an hour (don’t get off at the stop before, Lubben – I was confused and almost disembarked there but thankfully some people on the train stopped me). If you are travelling with loved ones or family the Berlin-Brandenburg day ticket that is €33 for 2 people, is excellent value and covers your return trip to Lubbenau from Berlin plus is valid on all public transport within Berlin.

Lubbenau

There’s two important key things that make Lubbenau a pretty unique and memorable town. First of all, Lubbenau is the”city of cucumbers”;  which have been grown and pickled here since the 8th century. Near the harbour, about a 15 minute stroll into the town centre, you’ll find the ‘Gurkenmeile’, a dedicated outdoor marketplace where you can sample a range of pickled delicacies- besides trying pickled cucumbers. Try also the horseradish-delicious stuff.

Another unusual local tipple you might want to sample at the market is their local Kräuterlikör aka herbal liqueur, the Spreewald Bitter, an original East German herbal liqueur. It is best enjoyed either as an aperitif or digestif- give it a shot.

The best way to explore Spreewald’s is by boat – you have two options. Right by the Gurkenmeile you will find yourself at the scenic Spreewald Harbour, a popular starting points for boat trips into the Spreewald. The wooden boats with their lovingly laid tables are Spreewald’s answer to Venice’s iconic gondolas. If you’re looking for an idyllic and relaxed ride along the rivers of Spreewald, go for this.

The other more adventurous option of traversing the magical water world of Spreewald is to hire a canoe by the hour or for the day. AS some of you may know, I can’t swim and am pretty terrified about being on water. That said, with the river being waist deep, I felt ok but I was feeling pretty nervous to begin with. Luckily, Sabrina was a calming influence at the back of the boat. We had the option of having the boat for the day but went for a 3 hour spin along the canals via the town of Lehde. Once my initial panic subsided, I started to enjoy the meditative silence of this awe inspiring beautiful forest, the silence occasionally broken by the sound of birds and the wonderful gushing, gurgling sound of surface water breaking as our oars propelled us gently forward. Also, with no motorised boats allowed to operate on the canals, it is pretty chill.

How to rent

We rented our 2 seat kayak from the lovely Bootshaus Kaupen. Our paddle boats came from their family workshop, carrying on a tradition of boat building for almost 100 years.

Renting the 2 seat kayak for the day starts from €25.50. A 1 person kayak starts at €18.50 a day. 

Covid safety regulations

All paddles, water hiking maps and seats are disinfected before/after each rental. There is a hand disinfection station at the boat rental. Customary textile back cushions for reasons of hygiene are not provided but you can bring your own.

Lunch: ‘Gasthaus Wotschofska’

After dropping off the kayak we decided to hike to Gasthaus Wotschofska’.

A 8 km round hike from Lubbenau, situated on the Alder Island, until 1911, the guesthouse could only be reached by water. Situated at a slight elevation and due its inaccessibility, the island and the guesthouse have always been a place of refuge to people in times of need. Previously accessible by boat only, since the walkway was constructed, the restaurant has become a popular place with walkers.

The log cabin built in the style of a hunting lodge seems straight out of a Wes Anderson movie and is a beautiful place to linger after a relaxed hike through the forest.

Serving up a generous portions of classic German comfort food, combined with excellent local beers, visiting the guesthouse was definitely a highlight of our day out in Spreewald.

If time permits: Visit the Freilandmuseum Lehde

If you’re keen to learn what life was like in Spreewald in the 19th century and a historical re-enactment enthusiast to boot, then you should also squeeze out an hour to check the Freilandmuseum ‘open air’ museum in Lehde. A reconstructed 19th-century village complete with costumed actors, visitors can indulge in a bunch of interactive activities ranging from milking a goat to walking in wooden shoes or even building a proper Spreewald log cabin.

Where to stay in Berlin: The Student Hotel Berlin

A student accommodation, hotel and co-living hybrid, Student Hotel is one of the few hospitality concepts that has defied convention over the years and revolutionised the budget accommodation sector with their wonderful mix of brilliant design, great hospitality and amazing facilities at a very reasonable price- it’s a cool design hotel with the DNA of a a luxury hostel. I’ve been a huge fan of their concept since they launched several years back in Amsterdam and have been following their fortunes with great interest and excitement.

Let’s start with the location: just next door to Jannowitzbrucke U-Bahn and S-Bahn station, it’s very central and well connected for tourists looking to reach all parts of the city.

The rooms, as is standard with TSH hotels are fantastic -an amazing mattress so you have the best nights sleep, stylish bedside lamps and plugs, storage space for luggage plus ensuite showers with powerful rain showers – love it. Best feature in the rooms is the Nespresso machine which offers you the perfect way to start your day. The other standout feature of TSH Berlin are the facilities – they have a free small, well equipped gym which is a great luxury to have when you spend a lot of time on the road and need to keep in shape. Plus if you’re working on the road and a digital nomad you have the convenience of working from their quiet co-working spaces on site – this saves you the hassle of trying to find an expensive co-working space for the day.

TSH Berlin also has an onsite restaurant called the Commons where they have a diverse menu with everything from Gourmet Burgers (start from €10) to daily specials (Starts at €9.50)

They do run a happy hour from 5-7pm.

PS Checkout my earlier guide to the best budget places to stay in Berlin

Disclaimer

My trip to Berlin was possible, thanks to a collaboration with the German National Tourism Office. However, all the opinions and suggestions expressed here are entirely my own, with a little influence from my other half, Sabrina Wulf.

Huge thanks to Denise, Josefine, Helena and the rest of the team at GNTO for making this amazing trip and collaboration possible.

It was a similar misty, moody day at the end of the summer. South of Dresden, the landscape becomes widescreen, spread out like a Super 8 film and terraced vineyards arch steeply into your view. They stand sturdily upright, protectively framing the terraced landscape, as they’ve done dutifully, for almost the last 850 years. I close my eyes and imagine what the valley would have looked like back in the 12th century. The area had been considered something of an economic backwater, undeveloped and unloved until a senior member of the Catholic Church, Bishop Benno had the grand idea of planting vines there, which legend dictates, was to help cultivate wine for his Holy Mass. An unusual intervention but then again as Europe’s most northern wine growing region, the Sachsen wine region has always defied the norm. Even when the odds have been stacked against them. After overcoming the steep decline in temperatures that swept Europe in the 18th/19th century (that turned Sachsen wine into a sour, unforgettable mess), in early 19th century, Saxony was hit by the Philoxmena plague that destroyed the vines. That, combined with the fact that large breweries of the time reduced the price of their beer, sounded the death knell of the wine industry. After the barren years of communism, wine making in the region has made a comeback in the post reunification era, thanks to the joint collective efforts of independent winemakers in the region.

Cheese and wine tasting, Pfunds Molkerei, Dresden

Diesbar-Seusslitz

Now there’s even a wine route for you to follow and help discover the region.  Winding its way for almost 60 km along the Elbe River, the Saxon Wine Route was established in 1992 to help hikers discover Germany’s smallest wine growing region. It is a beautiful trail that promises a fantastic mix of beautiful vineyards, cosy traditional wine cellars, historic towns, sophisticated architecture along the river Elbe, between the starting point which is in Pirna and the  end in Diesbar-Seußlitz.

There are a number of ways to discover the region, depending on the time of the year and how much time you have on hand. You can tackle the route through individual legs, circular walks, or go for the whole distance. We started in the middle with Radebeul, at the gates of Saxony’s gorgeous baroque capital, Dresden.

Radebeul is a dreamy little town. It has this lovely relaxed laid back vibe, thanks to the impressive hillside vineyard landscape edging up from the Elbe. There are lots of artist workshops, galleries and cute boutique shops to explore plus you have one of the oldest narrow gauge railway lines in Germany, where nostalgia evoking steam trains chug their way to neighbouring Radeberg.

In addition there are a bunch of independent wineries, which form the basis of one of the town’s most popular events, the Radebeul Winefest. Celebrated at the end of September to mark the onset of Autumn, the festival besides marking the initial wine harvest also takes place in parallel with the Internationales Wandertheater Festival (International Itinerant Theatre Festival).

You have an intoxicating combination of Radebeulers chugging down the sweet young Federweisser wine and at the same time art, clowns, musicians and actors turning the cobbled streets into a stage. With all the wineries of the Saxon Wine Route showcasing their wines, it is the perfect introduction to the route.

In what becomes a bit of a ritual in the days to come, I wake up at the crack of dawn to catch the most magical sunrise by the Elbe.The autumn mist hangs mystically in the air creating this cauldron of deep blue smoke. I don’t know whether it’s the hangover still talking (another ritual I would develop over the days to come) but for a few split seconds, the Elbe for a brief moment, seems to rise above me, serpent like, into the hazy morning sky.

The mist lifts, sky breaks to reveal the most glorious Autumnal sunny morning. My head, still aches from all that delicious Federweisser so it’s perfect timing to head to one of the wine route’s most famous and popular wineries, Schloss Wackerbarth.

Exquisitely Saxon is the motto of Schloss Wackerbarth but can be applied to most vineyards here. One of the distinguishing characterstics of vineyards like Schloss Wackerbarth are their centuries old steep vineyards bounded by dry stone walls. Maintaining these stone walls, some hundreds of years old, is an expensive setup that demands a great deal of manual care. Working the vines, on these steep terraces is a real labour of love, a lot more exhausting than simply driving a tractor through a flat field of vines.

The end result is pretty special. The grapes are handpicked. The vines deliver incredibly mineral, intensely flavored grapes. Also the grapes here achieve a surprising ripeness, odd, considering their northern latitude. When you consider the small quantities these wines are produced and their local popularity, finding them outside of Germany, or even outside of Saxony for that fact is quite difficult, what you sample here is unique. That’s what makes any trip along the Saxon Wine Route, a very special experience.

Exquisitely Saxon. In my mind, the motto symbolises the Saxon way  of wine harvesting and other things in life: exquisitely hard, but ultimately one that has the best end result in mind. Keeping that motto to heart we hike to the neighbouring winery of Hoflößnitz. Sometimes dubbed the ‘stairway to heaven’, walking up the old stone staircase of the winery, almost out of breath, I do feel for a few moments close to heaven. I reach out my hands to see if I can touch the infinite blue and then stare away disappointed, only to be gifted the most stunning panoramic view – the winery and the iconic Belvedere, where only just moments before I had been enjoying a glass of delicious Sekt.

After an hour jaunt we pass the famous Spitzhaus staircase, where from the top of its 397 stairs, you get a fantastic panoramic view of Radebeul. If you’ve timed your ascent perfectly, you’ll spot in the distance, the impressive sight of the Radebeul-Radeburg  steam locomotive winding its way through the Lößnitzgrund. It is a great place for a picnic which was what we did. If you are glutton for punishment, the Spitzhaus is also home to Mount Everest Treppenmarathon, which the website site of the German Ultramarathon Association describes the run as “the heaviest and largest extreme stair run in the world”. The idea is to the climb the length of Mount Everest in upto 24 hours. 8,848 meters can be covered in 100 laps. Not, for me. Lets get back to the wine.

Hoflößnitz winery is the cradle of Saxon viticulture, representing a 600 year proud history of wine culture on the slopes of Losnitz. The vineyards dates back to 1203 when Wettin Margrave Wilhelm I acquired the village of Kotchenbroda in 1401 with all its fields, meadows and vineyards. The centrepiece of the winery is the historic Lust und Berghaus , built for Saxon Elector Johann Georg I in 1650 which now houses the Saxon Viticulture Museum. You can dig into the centuries old rich history of wine making, the work of the winemakers of past centuries and their equipment. You’ll find maps, models and works of art that illustrate the peculiarities of viticulture in the Elbe valley. Other notable reasons to visit is to see Albert Eyckhout’s (a court painter, from the Netherlands) lavish ceiling frescoes in the castle’s banquet hall,  a masterpiece of art that features 80 Brazilian birds. Besides guided tours through the historic vineyards, it is worth noting that in the Press House is housed the Saxon Wine Route Visitor centre, where you can plan your trip along the wine route. Last, but most importantly at the end you can sample a delightful glass of Hoflößnitz wine at the onsite Weinstube.

‘Klein aber fein!’  (Small but beautiful)

Katharina Pollmer

Katharina replied with a twinkle in her eye when I asked what makes the wine route and area unique. One thing I’ve quickly realised over the course of my trip is that most of the wineries, barring a few major producers like Schloss Wackerbarth are quite small in their scale. The focus in boutique wineries like Schuh is less about scale but more in producing wine ‘with character and soul’. This passion for character and soul reflects in their onsite winery restaurant where we have a fabulous 4 course dinner at night. Klein aber fein is also a perfect way to describe the village of Sörnewitz and the vineyards too. On the steep slopes of the village, we spot the dreamy spires of Meissen’s cathedral on the horizon. To our left, we see the misty eyed Elbe, an ever constant, reassuring presence on our journey. A feeling of deep satisfaction sweeps over me with as I sip on a glass of Katharina’s wonderful riesling.

‘I can escape into nature easily here which is perfect for the times we live in.’

Katharina Sommer

A few months have passed since our trip to Saxony. I’m back in Berlin, deep in the musty red roots of Autumn. The trip and our wine filled days of wonder and fairytale castles, beautiful villages are a distant memory. All I have is a bottle or two of some of the wines from the trip. We are a few days into another long lockdown awaits in Berlin and the rest of the Germany. There will be plenty of time to reminiscence about our trip to Saxony and other trips. While I love the comfort of the place we stay in and Berlin itself, somehow a nostalgic part of me longs to be back in Saxony. I miss the daily series of slow rituals that characterise the best holidays. For us in Saxony it was to get up at the crack of dawn, enjoy sunrise by the Elbe, watching the autumn mist hang above the meadows, a filling breakfast (which always true to local tradition, involve lots of delicious local cheeses, meats and a glass of the local sparkling wine Sekt), then a long hike which involved maybe a beautiful fairytale castle or two, then onto a winery, sampling a few glasses of wine accompanied by a dreamy sunset and then after a delicious meal, we sunk happily into one of the many beautiful hotel beds along the wine route and eagerly awaited the start of another day on the wine route. The more I discovered the route, the more I wondered why still so little is known about this region and its wines in UK and beyond. That not only goes for the wine but for Saxony itself. I search in my mind for an answer and that brings me back to the penultimate winery of our trip and probably our most memorable one- Weingut Klaus Zimmerling.

Picture this. It was another spectacular late summer sunset by the Elbe. We’re standing in the vineyard of Klaus Zimmerling, high in the steep rolling hills above the picture postcard village of Pillnitz. When you see scenes like this , you understand why Dresden once earned the epitaph ‘Florence on the Elbe.’ For a moment I feel like I’m in Tuscany.

The fiery ball of orange, sinking into the horizon saturates our skin and wine glasses with beautiful hues of colours – orange, pink and then purple. While sipping on the wine I admire one of the graceful female sculptures, by his wife, Malgorzata Chodakowska.  I don’t know whether it’s Malgorzata’s subtle ethereal sculptures or the wine talking but I feel that I’m somewhere quite magical. There we were, sunk in green lush rich fields, interspersed with tall magnificent trees, bathed in the rich glow. In the distance, Klaus points out the mystical fairytale vista of the Sachsen Switzerland mountains.

‘You should come to Saxony with an open mind and discover the region for yourself.’

Klaus Zimmerling

Until then, Klaus Zimmerling had been a man of few words. Only when showing us the landscape or uncorking another bottle of wine, I see his eyes sparkle. I posed to him the same question as to why so little is known about the wine region. It could be the fact, that the region produces only 0.2% of Germany’s wines. Zimmerling only produces around 14,000 bottles a year which are quickly sold out. The wine is more expensive than the average bottle of German wine. In an era where everything is built for mass consumption, I find it comforting that the wine I maybe drinking, will be no longer – tomorrow. In uncertain times like this, where the future is difficult to predict, it is more important that we savour the smaller details and gifts of life. Like a good bottle of wine. I have two bottles of Zimmerling’s signature high-quality organic Riesling wine left. I will save it for the cold nights ahead. It will be a moment worth waiting for, only, a brief few moments, to be transported back to memories of a beautiful late summer by the serpentine Elbe river. Memories of early misty mornings, of some good wine and the eternal hope of better times to comes around the bend.

Essential facts

Planning your trip

We stayed in a mix of hotels within the wineries ( was perfect!) and aparthotels-all very decently priced. Will share more practical information in our next post which will be a ‘how to’ guide for exploring the Saxony Wine Route. So stay tuned for that post. Plus, in the meantime, if you are thinking of planning a trip to Saxony in the near future, checkout their new microsite – Saxony Travel Dreams, where you’ll find lots of inspiration & practical tips.

Disclaimer

Please note that alongside Sabrina, I was invited to Saxony to write and create a video about the Saxony Wine Route. All the opinions expressed in this piece are entirely my own. I had planned to do this trip so I was really grateful for this trip and opportunity, especially give the year we had with little or no work. So I’d like to say a huge thank you to Dorothea, Nadine, Wolfgang and the TMGS team for inviting us back to Saxony and sharing their beautiful region with us. We hope to return soon!

Signage for The Saxon Wine Route

Planning for the Saxon Wine Route

A. What to expect

Ideally you should dedicate at least a week to see the Saxon Wine Route.

There are different possibilities in doing so: by public transport, bicycle, car and even by foot…..You can tackle the trail in six separate stages, each 15 to 18 kilometres in length and taking between five and six hours to walk. The Saxon Wine Route is clearly signposted throughout. Just keep an eye out for the logo and marking sign of the Saxon Wine Route which is a red grape with a red S above it.  The route is very scenic and will take through the best of what Saxony has to offer – from beautiful vineyards and baroque castles to historical town centres and steep staircases leading to spectacular vantage points. The trail includes asphalt sections, cobblestone as well as overgrown paths and stairs. Bring a good pair of hiking shoes with you. Another alternative way to see the trail is by cycling the 55 km route (signposted as the ‘Elbe Cycling Route’). If you are pressed for time, you can also cover the route on the nostalgic old paddleboat steamers of the Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt.

Winery with a view- Klaus Zimmerling Winery, Pillnitz

B. When is the best time to visit the Saxon Wine Route

The best times to visit the vineyards are from late April into the summer and then, depending on weather conditions, immediately after the harvest in late autumn. Wherever you go there are hundreds of Wein -or Winzerfests like the Radebeul Autumn and Wine Festival where you have the perfect opportunity to taste the wines, mix with people, and enjoy local tasty treats.

C. Getting there

The best way to visit here is via the new Berlin Brandenburg Airport  which is accessible by a direct train ride ( 1 hour and 40 minutes Price: Starts from €22 one way). There are also excellent train connections from Frankfurt ( 4 hours 19 minutes , €50 . Worth mentioning that there is an excellent air link from Frankfurt to Dresden via Lufthansa with a journey time of just 55 minutes )and also Munich to Dresden ( 4 hours 45 minutes, €60 one way )

The other option is for people to fly into Prague airport and there is a direct train to Dresden (2 hours 26 minutes, €17.90 one way).

Towns to visit on the Saxon Wine Route

Pirna

Pirna

A short hop from Dresden, Pirna is the starting point for the Saxon Wine Trail and also the gateway to the stunning Saxon Switzerland National Park. It is a city that goes a bit under the radar for many tourists which is a shame – spared of any damage from the Second World War, its well preserved historical old town with its picture perfect Renaissance town square is arguably the prettiest in Saxony. Crowned by the towering Sonnenstein Castle, its winding streets lined with charming courtyards and numerous fountains are a joy to explore.

Pillnitz Castle

Pillnitz

Located in the south east suburbs of Dresden, the village of Pillnitz sums up the beauty of the Saxon Wine Trail in a nutshell, with its perfect amalgamation of dreamy Elbe riverscapes, rolling vineyards with spectacular vistas of the distant Saxon Switzerland and a gorgeous Baroque palace. Inspired by the architecture of the far east, Pillnitz Palace and Park was a pleasure palace and later the summer residence of Saxony’s most famous ruler Augustus the Strong. Highlights here include exploring the 28 hectare gardens which is home to a number of rare trees, particularly in the Dutch Garden and Conifer Garden. Learn about the rich history of life at the court in the Schlossmuseum. Design lovers will love the Kunstgewerbemuseum collection, which ranges from late antiquity to contemporary design with a special focus on Saxon handicrafts.

Zwinger, Dresden

Dresden

As the train pulls itself over the Elbe, the first thing that hits you when you arrive is the stunning Baroque silhouette of Dresden’s Altstadt. Combining the old and the new, the charm of Dresden lies in its unpredictability, a kind of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde personality where you are always having to reconcile two very different images of the city. In the Neustadt new town you will find a gritty and alternative side that expresses itself through its world famous street art scene, which is complemented by a strong nightlife scene that matches Berlin in some aspects. You will discover a fantastic live music scene, a wide range of cultural events and also a fantastic range of international dining options. Hop across the Elbe and then you find yourself in the very grand old town, with its beautifully restored Renaissance and Baroque architecture, bustling outdoor cafes and restaurants, life here has a very different feel and pace. Whichever type of traveller you are, you are bound to find something to suit your interests in this city.

Radebeul Wine Festival

Radebeul

Radebeul is a dreamy little town right next to Dresden. It has this lovely relaxed laid back vibe, thanks to the impressive hillside vineyard landscape edging up from the Elbe. Apart from the numerous wineries there are lots of artist workshops, galleries and cute boutique shops to explore here. You also have one of the oldest narrow-gauge railway lines in Germany, where nostalgia evoking steam trains chug their way to neighbouring Radeberg.

Meissen

Meissen

Meissen is often overshadowed by its more glamorous neighbours – Dresden and Leipzig but is well worth the detour. Bordered by sloping vineyards that produce dry and fruity white wines and dominated by its impressive cathedral hill with its stunning Gothic cathedral and Albrechtsburg Castle, Meissen is one of the best-preserved towns you will discover on the Saxon Wine Route. I would use the German word “Gemütlichkeit” to describe Meissen – you have a feeling of instant zen, cosiness walking the cobbled hilly lanes streets of this 1,000-year-old city. Meissen is also the oldest manufacturer of porcelain in Europe and porcelain aka ‘white gold’ played a huge role in the city’s history-Porcelain museum is unmissable. For more about Meissen, checkout my earlier guide to the porcelain city of Germany.

Diesbar-Seusslitz

Diesbar-Seusslitz

At the bend of the Elbe River, you will find the village of Diesbar-Seußlitz which marks the end of the Saxon Wine Route. The wineries found in this little piece of heaven are just grand, as is the Baroque Castle Seußlitz. One of the most popular festivals is the annual Marriage Market, which has been celebrated for the last 500 years.

Wineries to visit on the Saxon Wine Route

Iconic Belvedere ‘summer house’ at Schloss Wackerbarth

Schloss Wackerbarth

Address: Wackerbarthstraße 1, 01445 Radebeul, Germany

Schloss Wackerbarth, the region’s largest and most famous vineyard, is one of the places where you can sample the special aroma of the Goldriesling variety that was introduced to Saxony from the Alsace in 1913. Wackerbarth, sitting above the Elbe in Radebeul not far from Dresden, is a quite splendid combination of vineyards, Baroque gardens, a palace and a modern wine/sparkling wine factory. In other words, don’t miss!

‘Exquisitely Saxon’ is the motto of Schloss Wackerbarth but can be applied to most vineyards here. One of the distinguishing characteristics of vineyards at Schloss Wackerbarth are their centuries old steep vineyards bounded by dry stone walls. Maintaining these stone walls, some hundreds of years old, is an expensive setup that demands a great deal of manual care. Working the vines, on these steep terraces is a real labour of love, a lot more exhausting than simply driving a tractor through a flat field of vines. The end result is pretty special. The grapes are handpicked. The vines deliver incredibly mineral, intense flavoured grapes. Also, the grapes here achieve a surprising ripeness, odd, considering their northern latitude. When you consider the small quantities in which these wines are produced and their local popularity, finding them outside of Germany, or even outside of Saxony for that fact is quite difficult. What you sample here is unique. That’s what makes any trip along the Saxon Wine Route, a very special experience.

Hoflößnitz winery, the cradle of Saxon viticulture

Hoflößnitz winery

Address: Knohllweg 37, 01445 Radebeul, Germany

Hoflößnitz winery in Radebeul is the cradle of Saxon viticulture and represents a 600 year-old proud history of wine culture on the slopes of Loessnitz. It is the first winery in Saxony which is certified for producing ecological wine.

The winery dates back to 1401 when Wettin Margrave Wilhelm I acquired the village of Kotchenbroda in with all its fields, meadows and vineyards. Besides guided tours through the historic vineyards, visitors can visit the Saxon Wine Route Visitor centre, where you can plan your trip along the wine route. The winery also offers onsite accommodation with four double rooms and two apartments. Last, but most importantly at the end, whilst enjoying the view of the beautiful vineyards, you can sample a delightful glass of Hoflößnitz wine at their delightful onsite Weinstube. I recommend the Kerner wine-with hints of star fruit, passion fruit and grapefruit. This is summer in a glass.

Klaus Zimmerling

Weingut Klaus Zimmerling

Address: Bergweg 27, 01326 Dresden, Germany

High above the picture postcard village of Pillnitz at the foot of the Rysselkuppe, the Pillnitz Royal Vineyard, lies another star of the wine route, the Zimmerling Winery, run by Klaus Zimmerling and his artist wife Malgorzata Chodakowska, who also designs the labels for the wine bottles. The wine is much sought after in Germany and beyond which have been served in Michelin star restaurants like Noma in Denmark. Zimmerling only produces around 14,000 bottles a year. Zimmerling winery specializes in white wines, especially Riesling, Grauburgunder, Weißburgunder, Kerner, Gewürztraminer and Traminer.

A unique blend of art, wine and sculpltures, this is a special place to visit. Both Klaus and Malgorzata are happy to receive visitors from Dresden and around the world. Visit their wine shop, chat with Klaus and his wife about their wines. In the middle of the vines, you can visit Malgorzata Chodakowska’s studio and view her subtle ethereal sculptures, graceful female figures which she creates from wood or bronze. They are currently building a beautiful new events space that will house some of Malgorzata’s sculptures and will be available for weddings and private hire.

Katharina Pollmer, Weingut Schuh

Weingut Schuh

Address: Zaschendorfer Str. 2, 01640 Coswig, Germany

The Schuh Winery is run by Katharina and Matthias, who were born into a family of wine growers and who have been running their father’s winery since 2016 with great passion and love for wine.

Their favourite place is the steep sloping vineyards of Sörnewitz in the region around Meissen and Dresden, where they grow wine “with character and soul”. They refrain from using any herbicides and only use organic fertilisers. As connoisseurs of professional paths, their culinary demands go far beyond the edge of the wine glass, which is why a visit to the estate’s own wine restaurant is worthwhile. Special events such as herb-wine hikes take place regularly at the winery. Along with the grape varieties conventionally grown in Saxony, the Weingut Schuh winery is the only establishment to press a rich, genuine red wine made from Dunkelfelder grapes.

Winery Proschwitz with its dreamy panoramic views of Meissen

Winery Proschwitz Castle

Address: Dorfanger 19, 01665 Diera-Zehren, Germany

Proschwitz is a village close to Meissen and Proschwitz Castle enjoys a reputation of being the oldest private winery in Saxony. The Castle, built in the Neo-Baroque style is owned by Georg Prinz zur Lippe and today the winery enjoys status as one of the finest producers of German wine. The extended hours of sunshine enjoyed in the Elbe valley along with the wealth of minerals in the soil help produce some of the most unique wines of this region. Given its fine interiors, the castle also hosts private events and weddings.

Visitors will find the Winery WeinReich Diesbar-Seußlitz located in the former stable of the manor of Seusslitz Castle

Winery WeinReich Diesbar-Seußlitz

Address: An der Weinstrasse 7 01612 Diesbar-Seußlitz, Germany

In the 800 years old small wine village Diesbar-Seußlitz, marking the end of the Saxon Wine Route, you will find the last winery on the Saxon Wine Route, the Winery WeinReich Diesbar-Seußlitz. Located in the former stable of the manor of Seußlitz Castle, during the season visitors can lounge on their dreamy sandstone terrace and enjoy a bunch of rarities from Saxony plus a selection of wines from Germany’s other wine regions. Matching dishes are included. Note that their small wine tavern is open only on Sundays from 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Check their website for the latest opening hours.

Wolfgang Winn, Winzer Winn

Winzer Winn

Address: Grüner Weg 44, 01796 Pirna, Germany

This boutique small winery run by the passionate Wolfgang Winn is a great introduction to Saxon Wine Route. Carrying on a 300 year old tradition of winemaking that dates back to when Augustus the Strong started with his Blauburgunder wines, hobby winemaker Wolfgang Winn has been pressing wines from the Pillnitz Royal Vineyard on the southern slope of the Borsberg and from the Schlossblick vineyard in Pirna. Winn grows a wide variety of grapes that are popular here on the Elbe including Müller-Thurgau, Goldriesling, Pinot Blanc, Ruländer, Traminer, Morio Muskat, Scheurebe, Pinot Noir and Dornfelder.

In season, you can wonder through the royal vineyards in Pillnitz or soak in the sun on their sun terrace and chat to Wolfgang Winn at his historic vineyard cottage on the Leitenweg overlooking the Elbe valley.

Where to stay on the Saxon Wine Route

Hotel Goldener Anker, Radebeul

Within walking distance from the River Elbe you find the quaint, traditional Hotel Goldener Anker in Radebeul. Located close to the Radebeul Boat Jetty and in the vicinity of small eateries and shops, the rooms feature a historical design and include amenities like satellite TV and attached bathrooms. Some of the rooms overlook the Elbe. Breakfast can be enjoyed at extra cost and Saxon style food is served at the hotel’s excellent restaurant. There’s also a large beer garden on the premises. Room rates start from €80.

Vinotel. Weingut Schuh, Sörnewitz

During the season (1st April till 31st October), Vinotel Weingut Schuh offers visitors the possibility of spending the night in the winery in their beautiful half-timbered house where you can choose from single and double rooms or your very own country house style apartment. Rooms are cozy here. Guests can relax on their sun terrace, enjoy a meal in their fantastic restaurant plus wake up to a hearty Saxon style buffet breakfast which includes of course unlimited Sekt. Rates start from €75 for doubles, with breakfast.

Felix im Lebendigen Haus, Dresden

Your home away from home in Dresden, located in the heart of the city overlooking the stunning Zwinger is the Felix im Lebendigen Haus. A design hotel with all the state of the art facilities and superior design, choose from a range of suites. Some suites have features like a kitchenette, stylish bathroom, free Wi-Fi, flat screen TV, a desk to work and a safe to secure all valuables. Long stay rates start from the €62 for a small suite.

Schlosshotel Pillnitz

Vineyards and bountiful orchards surround this hotel located on the grounds of the historic Schloss Pillnitz Palace. On the banks of the River Elbe, you will find it hard to find a more historic and tranquil spot to stay the night. The summer months provide the opportunity of enjoying a meal at the beer garden. The rooms are spacious and provide lots of luxuries – canopied beds, lush draperies, scenic views and wonderful dining opportunities will make this a stay to remember.

Things to do on the Saxon Wine Route

Saxon Viticulture Museum ( right) located in Hoflößnitz winery

Saxon Viticulture Museum

At the heart of the winery is the historic Lust- und Berghaus, built for Saxon Elector Johann Georg I in 1650 which now houses the Saxon Viticulture Museum. You can dig into the centuries-old rich history of wine making, the work of the winemakers of past centuries and their equipment. You’ll find maps, models and works of art that illustrate the peculiarities of viticulture in the Elbe valley. Other notable reasons to visit is to see Albert Eyckhout’s (a court painter from the Netherlands) lavish ceiling frescoes in the castle’s banquet hall, a masterpiece of art that features 80 Brazilian birds.

Proschwitz Castle

Proschwitz is a village close to Meissen and Proschwitz Castle enjoys a reputation of being the oldest private winery in Saxony. The Castle, built in the Neo-Baroque style, is owned by Georg Prinz zur Lippe and today the winery enjoys status as one of the finest producers of German wine. The extended hours of sunshine enjoyed in the Elbe valley along with the wealth of minerals in the soil help produce some of the most unique wines of this region. Given its fine interiors, the castle also hosts private events and weddings.

Moritzburg Castle

Moritzburg Castle

Moritzburg Castle is a historical Baroque palace found in Moritzburg near Dresden. It enjoys a superb location, perched on an artificial island, surrounded by water and near to extensive castle grounds, historically used for Royal hunting expeditions. The interiors of the castle are opulently designed. Many of the rooms are devoted to showing the spoils of hunting expeditions. There are areas of the house displaying beautiful porcelain from Japan, China and closer to home – Meissen. Lacquered furniture ornately decorated with silver, large paintings and leather wallpaper are all details to take in when touring the Moritzburg Castle.

Tip: To reach Moritzburg Castle hop on the Regionalbus 326 from Dresden-Neustadt. Invest in a VVO one day ticket which covers the whole area. It costs €13.50 for the day and two children (aged 6-14) can travel free with an adult. The other option if you are travelling in a group is to buy the group pass which costs €28.

Lössnitzgrundbahn narrow-gauge railway

Lössnitzgrundbahn narrow-gauge railway

If steam trains and time travelling is your thing, then a journey on the Lössnitzgrundbahn narrow-gauge railway is a wonderful experience that will delight people of all ages. One of the oldest narrow-gauge railway lines in Germany, without fail, this classic steam train embarks every day on a 16.6 kilometre route from Radebeul Ost to Radeburg via Moritzburg. Tickets cost €7.50 one way ( Kids: €3.80) or €14.30 (Kids: €7.20) return.

Dresden- Hop-on Hop-Off Bus Experience

Who doesn’t enjoy a Hop-on Hop-off bus experience to leisurely tour and discover a city at your own pace? The Dresden bus takes in as many as 22 stops and you can hop on at the Zwinger right in the heart of the city or any one of the remaining stops. To circumnavigate the entire trail without hopping off takes 2 hours and you have the pleasurable accompaniment of an audio guide in the language of your choice. There is a live guide who will take you around sights like the Zwinger, Frauenkirche and Fuerstenzug. Adults ride for €20 and a child for free with an accompanying adult. More details can be found on their website.

Meissen

Albrechtsburg Castle Meissen

Another castle on the Saxon Wine Route is Albrechtsburg Castle Meissen. Built in Gothic and Renaissance style it is perched on a rocky plateau, overlooking the River Elbe and located right next to Gothic Meissen Cathedral. Highlights of the design include the Great Staircase Tower, banqueting halls, the former electoral presence room and independent apartments for living. It is Germany’s first living castle and home of the first European Porcelain Manufactory which is now on the outskirts of Meissen. Meissen itself is the oldest town of Saxony and a romantic jewel with narrow lanes and beautiful historic houses.

Welcome to Pfunds Molkerei, the ‘world’s most beautiful milk shop’, according to the Guiness Book of World Records

Pfunds Molkerei (Pfunds Dairy), Dresden

Slated to be the ‘World’s Most Beautiful Milk Shop’ by the Guiness Book of World Records, Pfund’s Molkerei has been doing business as a milk shop in Dresden since 1880. This beautiful dairy was thankfully not hit during WW2 and is today a beautiful testament of all that is beautiful and ornate with regard to interiors. Lavishly decorated with hand painted Villeroy and Boch tiles, the dairy is as pretty as a picture in shades of blue and gold. Resembling a palace more than a traditional dairy, sipping on a glass of milk or tasting cheeses from Saxony and all over the world has never seemed so luxurious!

One of the historic paddle steamers in the fleet of the Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt

Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt

With a fleet of nine historic paddle steamers, between 81 and 131 years old, the Sächsische Dampfschiffahrt operates the largest and oldest fleet of historic paddle steamers in the world. A ride on the classic paddleboat steamer gives you a fantastic perspective of the vineyards along the wine route. The vessels have been lovingly restored and feature cozy salons both on the main deck and below deck. While on the vessel, guests can get an open view of the original, oscillating steam engine plus there’s also small windows on the side to view the splashing paddle wheels. Journey time is about 2 1/2 hours. Grab a glass of wine from the vessel bar and enjoy the spectacular scenery along the sleepy Elbe river.

They offer all kinds of ride from a city tour (1 h) to a trip into Saxon Switzerland (6 hours just the rides)

Important dates

Sampling the sweet ‘virgin wine’- ‘Federweisser’ and ‘Zwiebelkuchen’- savory onion cake, is a must when visiting the Saxon Wine Route during the harvest period

August: Open Vineyards Weekend

The Open Vineyards Weekend held in August each year is immensely popular with the locals. A long-standing favourite with the locals for a reason: every year, vineyards between Pillnitz and Diesbar-Seusslitz, in Dresden and the small town of Freital just a few miles south, open their doors to visitors who can explore the wine terraces and winemaking on guided tours, before sampling the products. A great way to get to know what makes the Saxon Wine Route so special.

September: Federweisser Fest in Diesbar-Seußlitz

Picturesque Diesbar-Seußlitz in the Dresden Elbland region is the Northern gateway to the Saxon Wine Route. Early autumn is the time for Federweisser, the sweet and low-alcohol wine made of grapes that ripen early, and Diesbar-Seußlitz has quite rightly dedicated a whole wine festival to it. There’s music, guided tours of the surrounding vineyards and lots of delicious savoury snacks that go particularly well with this wine. Don’t be put off by its cloudy look that is down to the yeast that is added to the grapes and its sweetness – it is actually rather refreshing, with a pleasant sparkle. Tip: Take a look at the local Baroque palace and its lovely gardens.

September: Wine Festival in Meissen

Walks in Meissen’s vineyards are a delight in autumn but there is another reason why you should make it here in late September: The town’s Wine Festival is the biggest fair of the Elbland region with all the major Saxon vineyards showcasing their wines. For three days, Meissen’s beautiful old town is all about wine, music and food. Not to be missed: the residents open their courtyards and vaulted cellars to visitors, turning private homes into very charming vine taverns.

Radebeul Autumn and Wine Festival

There are a bunch of independent wineries in Radebeul which form the bedrock of one of Saxony’s most popular festivals, the Radebeul Autumn and Wine Festival. Celebrated annually at the end of September to mark the onset of Autumn, the festival besides marking the initial wine harvest, also takes place in parallel with the Internationales Wandertheater Festival (International Itinerant Theatre Festival). You have an intoxicating combination of locals chugging down the sweet young Federweisser wine and at the same time art, clowns, musicians and actors turning the cobbled streets into a stage. With all the wineries of the Saxon Wine Route showcasing their wines, it is the perfect introduction to the Saxon Wine Route.

Disclaimer

Please note that alongside Sabrina, I was invited to Saxony to write and create a video about the Saxony Wine Route. All the opinions expressed in this piece are entirely my own. I had planned to do this trip so I was really grateful for this trip and opportunity, especially give the year we had with little or no work. So I’d like to say a huge thank you to Dorothea, Nadine, Wolfgang and the TMGS team for inviting us back to Saxony and sharing their beautiful region with us. We hope to return soon!

I love Berlin but have always had a soft spot for Munich. I love the beautiful architecture, strolling through its grand and wide boulevards and of course enjoying its rich beer garden culture. With the advent of Covid, Munich proved to be an ideal choice for a social distancing-friendly short break thanks to its 5,680 acres of public parks and long established tradition of historical gardens – there’s lots of wide open green spaces within the city for being socially distant.

Exploring Germany’s tallest mountain- Zugspitze

The other major plus of visiting Munich is that just beyond its city borders, there is so much natural beauty and history to discover, from medieval villages and alpine peaks to pristine lakes. You can be hiking a mountain by day and be completely immersed in nature and by night, enjoying a beer in a beach bar on a river in the heart of the city.

In this guide, I wanted to share my experience of visiting Munich and why I think the city is perfect for a safe but enjoyable social distancing-friendly short break in 2021.

At the time of our visit in September, Munich and Bavaria in general, were very strict with Covid regulations. Wearing mouth and nose protection was compulsory on public transport as well as in all shops, museums, galleries, exhibitions, etc. We were also required to wear a mask inside restaurants, beer gardens and cafés as long as we were not sitting at the table. 

Important note: As of today ( 10th December 2020 ) with the recent rise in infections, Bavaria is now on complete lockdown. For the latest information and advice about travelling to Munich, check the Munich Tourism portal.

Where to stay: Jams Hotel

Combining good old fashioned hospitality, cosy spacious elegant rooms with a wonderful laid-back retro quality plus a strong focus on music, (as you’ve guessed from the name) – Jams Music Hotel is a great base to explore Munich. Each room comes with its own record player and at the lobby, you can select from a wide selection of classic rock records with everything from The Doors, Beatles to Deep Purple, Pink Floyd and Led Zeppelin. There’s also the perk of a complimentary mini-bar with beers and soft drinks that gets restocked every day.

Situated in the trendy neighbourhood of Haidhausen behind the Gasteig concert hall and on the fringes of the Isar river and English Garden, Jams is the perfect base for a socially distant, relaxed break in Munich. There is a basement bar and restaurant with outdoor terrace where you can enjoy their excellent breakfast. You can enjoy everything from poached eggs on salmon to pancakes with fresh fruits of the forest. In the evenings, the bar with its extensive drinks menu and resident DJ, becomes a popular meeting point for locals and guests alike.

Sunset picnic on the Isar

“When I think of the Isar, I think of childhood and playing and the summer,”

Munich-born songwriter Konstantin Wecker.

Just a 10 minute walk from the Jams Hotel, a nice spot to catch sunset is by the Isar at the Zellstrasser Strand. There’s plenty of space here for everyone, even on a hot summer days so social distancing is not an issue. There’s the epic view of the Wehrsteg bridge in front of you where you can see the crystal clear waters of the river gushing past and also the dome of St Luke’s Church, Munich’s oldest Protestant church. Grab a local Tegernsee or Augustiner beer (€2) from the nearby Spati am Gasteig. If you’re hungry and want to have a picnic, on the same street you’ll find Pizzeco who sell pizza by the slice (gluten free), ranging from the classic Margherita (€2) to Potato pizza with truffle oil (€3).

Nightlife in the summer: Pop into the Kulturstrand

If you’re are visiting Munich in the summer, I would strongly recommend popping into the Kulturstrand, a culture beach in the middle of the river Isar. The Kulturstrand takes place this year around the Vater-Rhein-Brunnen and will be there till 30th September. On most nights, you can find all kind of artists performing here and with tons of real sand to dip your toes in (huge amounts are imported every year from the Caribbean to the Bavarian capital) and the amazing location, right on the Museumsinsel is really perfect.

Catch the Rocky Horror Picture Show at Museum Lichtspiele

If you are visiting Munich over the weekend, another cool option is to catch the  famous cult film “Rocky Horror Picture Show”, which has been shown at the cinema, non-stop for the last 30 years, every Friday and Saturday at 23:00.

Day 2

Maximiliansanlagen

Situated between Max-Joseph-Brücke in the south and Ludwigsbrücke in the north, start the day with a stroll through the beautiful Maximiliansanlagen, a green shady 2 kilometre stretch of grass directly on the Isar, very popular with walkers, joggers and those looking for relaxation.

The highlight of the walk is the Angel of Peace, a 38 metre high glorious golden statue, embellishing a Greek temple. You can get a wonderful view of Munich from here and its perfect to visit, morning or in the evening.

Englischer Garten

Just a short walk from Maximiliansanlagen lies another place which is uniquely Munich, my favourite garden in the world, the Englischer Garten. The garden has the unique honour of being one of the largest urban parks of its kind in the world. It is a huge space, spreading from the centre of Munich, to its north-eastern fringes. As you’ve guessed from the name, it was designed in the form of an informal English garden, a style much popularised by the nobility from the middle of the eighteenth to the beginning of the nineteenth century. The Englisher Garden had all the characteristics- from gently rolling, manicured lawns, groves of tall trees and an artificial lake to a reconstruction of Greek temples, gently arching bridges and hints of a pastoral landscape, a feature popularised by the writers and painters of the time. The English Garden was THE place of escape into an idyllic world and fast forward to the current Covid era of travel, it continues to be a place of refuge for locals and tourists alike.

You have a wide choice of idyllic spots to spend your day, from the Monopteros, The Japanese Teahouse to the Chinese Tower, The Hirschau, The Kleinhesseloher Lake, Romford Hall, the Surfing Spot in the river and so much more.

One of my favourite spots to relax is at the foot of the Monopteros, a classical Greek style temple situated on a small hill. The temple has ten regal, Ionic columns with a copper coloured dome on top.

Lunch at the Chinescher Turm Biergarten

Another highlight of visiting the Englischer Garten for me has always been popping in for a Hofbrau beer (not my favourite beer in Munich but decent) at the Chinesischer Turm Biergarten.

Munich is famous for its beer gardens and we could not leave town without a beer at one of its most famous beer gardens. Built in 1789 along the model of the pagoda at Royal Botanic Gardens of Kew in London, the Chinesischer Turm is the second largest biergarten in Munich after the Hirschgarten. With over 7000 spaces, social distancing and finding your own table to sup your beer is not an issue. Even on a warm late summers day we could find ourselves a seat.

As with everywhere in Munich and Bavaria there were lots of precautions taken to ensure the safety of customers. No one was allowed to be seated in the biergarten until we had registered via the barcode at the entrance. Lots of disinfectant stations throughout the biergarten and also in the bathrooms. Food was self service and after standing in an orderly social distant queue I went for some classic German comfort food of sausages in a currywurst sauce plus some mashed potato and sauerkraut. We washed this down with a half pint of the Hofbrau beer.

Lunch for 2 with beers: €24

Eisbachwelle

Just a short walk from the Angel of Peace at the mouth of the Englischer Garten lies another highlight of the garden and one of Munich’s most unusual and original sightseeing spots – the manmade wave called the Eisbachwelle. A stretch of the river had the laminar flow converted to turbulent flow in the 70’s to create an artificial wave for locals to surf on. The wave fascinates locals and visitors alike since then and draws in surfers from all over the city on a daily basis. Unmissable.

Gotterspeise Chocolaterie and Cafe

Glockenbachviertel

To get a feel of the city, I always love to explore and get under the skin of at least one neighbourhood during a 2-3 day shortbreak. For this trip, I decided to dedicate some time to explore the Glockenbachviertel. The nerve centre of Munich’s LGBTQ scene and popular with students and creatives alike, recent gentrification has seen this neighbourhood south east of Munich’s Old Town transform into a more upmarket affair, packed with pastel coloured symmetric houses, cool bars and cafes. Plus its proximity to the Isar River makes it an ideal place to spend a summer’s evening or night – on the town.

One cool feature in this area is the number of excellent boutiques and independent stores for shopping. If you’re looking for an unusual gift or a nice cup of coffee or glass of wine, here are some tips for you.

On the way to 7te Himmel we stumbled upon by chance, Club Do Vinho , a wonderful wine and delicatessen that specialises in Portuguese wines and food. For those of you who have followed the blog for awhile, may remember I lived in Portugal, island of Madeira for 4 years. A small piece of my heart lies in Portugal so whenever I see anything Portuguese, I always feel emotional. The place does not disappoint – run by the friendly and extremely knowledgeable Ana Maria, this shop is a like a little corner of Portugal in Munich where you can savour everything from delicious Pasteis de Nata to drinking a nice glass of Vinho Verde, Vin Madeira or Port wine.

Our next stop was 7te Himmel, another outlet in the heart of Glockenbachviertel run with great heart and soul for the past 40 years by the affable Solveig Zecher. In her seventh heaven you can find wonderful array of dreamy and a little kitsch treasures: clothing ranging from knitted sweaters to colourful jackets, occasional pieces of jewellery, belts and carefully selected postcards.

We finish our tour of the area with a visit to the Gotterspeise Chocolaterie and Cafe (Jahnstraße 30, 80469 Munich), a must visit for chocolate and food lovers .The shop is a treasure trove of carefully selected chocolate, wines, spirits and food from all parts of the world. I wanted to eat everything here and take it home. In the end we picked up a box of salted butter caramels from France and Spicy Pepper and Herb Taralli from Puglia. Then you have the adjacent cafe where you enjoy a hot chocolate or a coffee (roasted in-house) or homemade lemonade and take time to unwind on their wonderful outdoor terrace, watch the comings and going of people in Glockenbachviertel.

Gärtnerplatz

On every trip, you always find one square or corner of a neighbourhood where you really feel the pulse of the city and ‘meet the locals.’ Gartnerplatz , adjacent to Glockenbachviertel and separated from it by the Fraunhoferstrasse is that place where you are one with local life and really plug into the city’s vibrant energy.

Gartnerplatz has a unique circular layout, emanating like a wheel from the fountains and flower beds that mark its centre. At the heart of the trendy neighbourhood is the Gartnerplatz Square where you can find the famous Staatstheater am Gartnerplatz. Though the square is dominated by the theatre, on the other sides of the square you find buildings painted in red – a shade particularly known as Gartnerplatz red. The square is a popular meeting point for locals and with the many surrounding pubs, bars and restaurants, this is the ideal place to hang out in Munich. If the weather is nice, I would suggest grabbing a nice local beer from the Penny Supermarket on the square and sitting down in the grass, having a sip and for awhile, letting local life revolve around you and this wonderful circle of colour, people and history.

Finish the day at the Olympiapark and Blue Sky Coffee & Photo

We finish the day and the trip at another of Munich’s glorious urban parks. This one was built in honour of the 1972 Summer Olympics. Olympiapark is a broad area that consists of the sporting arenas, the Olympic Villages, the Shopping area and the Park area – consisting of Olympic Hill and Olympic Lake. The park is the venue for several annual events including sporting events and those related to the fine arts.

The perfect place to see the Park and also catch sunset is at the top of the tower at the Blue Sky Coffee & Photo where the charismatic owner Markus Pranger will make you the best cup of coffee in Munich. Enjoy the views accompanied to Markus’s excellent drum & bass /techno music. Later, go a floor up to enjoy the best panoramic view of the city from the tower.

Dinner: Kashmir Inn

After a long day, we didn’t want to venture too far from the Jams Hotel so we were quite happy to discover the excellent Kashmir Inn. Run by the very hospitable Mr Usman the restaurant offers a range of classic North Indian/Pakistani classic dishes ranging from Karahi Paneer, Halwa Puri to Murgh Tikka Masala.

Day 3

Zugspitze/ Garmisch Partenkirchen

With boundless expanse of lakes, mountains vistas and picture postcard medieval villages at the doorstep, you’re really spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing a day trip from Munich.

I recommend visiting an old favourite of mine – Garmisch Partenkirchen and combining it with a trip to Germany’s highest peak, Zugspitze.

Top tip: Buy the Bavarian regional day ticket that will cover travel throughout the region. You can buy this on the day at any S-Bahn station or at the main train station. ( Valid from Monday to Friday from 9 am to 3 am the next day. On weekends and on public holidays the ticket is valid from midnight. Kids under 5 travel free )

For 2 people, the regional train ticket costed us €32. We could use it on S-Bahn and local train service in Munich and all scheduled bus services in Bavaria. Note: Few exceptions apply- check this page 

The Zugspitze

Upon arrival at the small town of Grainau, situated at the foot of the Zugspitze, take the cablecar ride from Eibsee to the top in an awe-inspiringly steep, almost vertical ascent up the mountain. The aerial tramway, running from Eibsee Lake to the top of the Zugspitze, holds the record as the longest freespanning cablecar ride in the world.

To say that the views from the top of the Zugspitze were incredibly beautiful, would be an understatement. The all-encompassing panoramic views onto 400 peaks, spread over 4 different countries can be a humbling experience. The Zugspitze mightily stands at 2962m above sea level and the experience is one to be remembered.

Apart from taking in the dizzying views, there’s a lot to do on the mountaintop. You can visit Germany’s highest elevation church, and during the winter months go tobagonning or visit the igloo village that is sculpted anew each winter. Otherwise, like us, you can enjoy the hospitality of a mountaintop restaurant and enjoy a meal with a view.

Visit the Panorama restaurant, which provides stunning views of the Eibsee below and of over 4 countries, is a great place to sample some excellent Alpine cuisine that uses fresh regional produce from Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy.

After a very satisfying meal we took the cogwheel train to Garmisch-Partenkirchen for a more gradual descent off the mountain top.

Garmisch- Partenkirchen

Garmisch-Partenkirchen is a Bavarian ski resort formed by conjoining the two towns of Garmisch and Partenkirchen. Originally, they were two separate towns with very different characters until they were forced to merge their identities prior to the 1936 Winter Olympics by Adolf Hitler. Partenkirchen is the town with the older architecture, cobbled streets and Bavarian feel whereas Garmisch has a more contemporary facade. Both towns are well-known on the map due to their proximity to the Zugspitze.

Partenkirchen, especially the main thoroughfare, Ludwigstrasse is a photographer’s delight. Everywhere you turn, quaint chalet style houses, the epitome of Bavarian architecture, greet your eyes. Gabled roofs with wide eaves, multicoloured houses with intricate murals, weatherboarded exteriors delightfully painted, ornate carvings and mouldings, window boxes bursting with cheerful flowers – Ludwigstrasse is pretty much picture-perfect.

Head to Wildcaffee Rosterei for coffee tasting. Their showroom is a kind of a mix between a cafe/roastery (the moment you walk in, kapow..bang, the smell of fragrant coffee beans being freshly roasted on site, hits you in the face) plus a kind of coffee tasting saloon where expert baristas like Robin Matthijsse let you sample a few of their coffees to help you understand better the different types of coffee they offer. Altogether, it is a well crafted coffee tasting experience that will stay with you for many years to come

Next head to Chocolaterie Amelie to try their famous signature chocolate with alpine herbs. The handmade chocolates made here are simply mouthwatering. Choose from truffles, pralines, chocolate bark, rum raisin chocolate bark, hazelnut filled chocolates and so much more.

End the day with dinner at the Hotel Garmischer Hof where everything is 100% organic and locally sourced.  Choose from a nice variety of classic southern German/Austrian dishes like Kaiserschmarrn, Wiener Schnitzel or sausages braised in beer from the brewery served with mustard, coleslaw and bread. Wash this down with excellent beer from their onsite brewery.

Further reading

To help plan your trip to Munich checkout my earlier guide on how to spend 2 days in Munich

plus local, Julia, shared her top 25 cheap eats in Munich.

Disclaimer

My trip to Munich was possible, thanks to a collaboration with the German National Tourism Office. However, all the opinions and suggestions expressed here are entirely my own, with a little influence from my other half, Sabrina Wulf.

Huge thanks to Denise, Josefine, Helena and the rest of the team at GNTO for making this amazing trip and collaboration possible.

This was our first trip anywhere since the 10th March when we went to Amsterdam for my birthday/work trip. After the stress and strain of the last few months, packing the bag feels like a release.

I dust off the packing cube. It has been sulking in the bitter depths of my backpack since early March. I’m little unsure of what to pack. I mentally go through my checklist. Sometimes, its these small rituals of travel that you miss the most about travel. We pack our existence into our trusted Arcido carry on backpacks and head to sleep. It is a restless night and we don’t sleep well. We are leaving on a very early train ( cheapest train tickets with Deustche Bahn are always at the crack of dawn or midnight ) from Berlin’s main train station.

6am.

The early light of dawn leaps through our bedroom and tickles our feet. I wake up before the alarm and feel a familiar surge of adrenaline. I suddenly feel like I’m 5 again and its Christmas Day. After enjoying a strong cup of coffee and a quick hot shower we slowly shuffle out of the door of the apartment. The tram to Berlin’s main train station is half empty. Everyone has their face masks on. I see a lot of tired eyes looking listlessly out of the windows at the unspoilt blue morning sky. Some cast an envious eye at us with our backpacks. I know you miss the drug of travelling, of escape. Hopefully, soon we can all travel soon.

There’s a deep knot in the pit of my stomach as I enter the train carriage. The act of travel nowadays carries the heavy weight of guilt. My friend pointed out that travel and the economy seems insignificant when people are dying. His words weighed heavily on my mind when I got on that train.A part of me rightly feels guilty that I shouldn’t be travelling with the virus still in circulation. The act of travel seems pointless when people are dying everyday. Millions of people are still under lockdown. Like my parents and sister’s family in Kolkata, India. They and millions more can only dream of the privilege of travelling again.

It is a tough one but as you know, travel for me is simply more than an escape. It is my job. It is my life. Travel industry in Germany contributes 43.2 billion euros to the Germany economy and supports 2 millions jobs. 100 million jobs are estimated to be at risk globally because of the current Covid crisis. The past few months have been tough. I’ve seen people in the industry lose their jobs. We’ve had some savings to live off over the past few months but we’re close to scraping the bottom of the barrel. There’s been little or no support from my government. The traffic to the blog has decreased by 80% plus I’ve lost a lot of my clients. I’ve been pretty demotivated and as you may have noticed, hardly blogged here for the last few months.

I know I’ll pull through. I hope we all do. I will continue to do what I do best -tell you the stories about places I’ve visited, the hostels, the tour guides, the street food stall owners -the everyday people who make your travel experience better. Travelling is more than just an act of escape. Done the right way, it can be a force of good. It can put money into the local economy and help sustain jobs. . So when we travel again, lets show even more care for the world and the people we meet, lets focus on spending and supporting the right kind of businesses. Plus lets keep social distancing until its safe , wear a mask please in public and clean our hands. Take all the precautions. Be responsible. Travel is and has always been a privilege. If we all do it the right way, we all win.

We’re heading to the city of heroes, Leipzig. A city where we have some great memories. ( Click here for the story of our last trip to Leipzig )

The national rail operator Deutsche Bahn indicated a low to average occupancy on the app. However in reality, the train was a lot busier than we expected and for the majority of the journey, we were sharing a table with another passenger. Everyone had masks on so that was grand but it still didn’t feel right.If I was Deutsche Bahn, I would have ensured that passenger seating is spaced out to ensure proper social distancing.Towards the end, we managed to bag our own table and then heaved a bit of a sigh.

We arrive in Leipzig’s grand central station. One of my favourite things about travelling to Leipzig is arriving in its grand train station-the epic scale of the terminus really is awe astounding. I only recently learnt that it is the biggest passenger railway terminus in Europe. We trundle out of the station and walk towards the city centre from where we would catch the tram to Sudvorstadt. Every time I come to Leipzig, I always take the same route. I love wondering through the extensive network of passages and walkways that are dotted throughout the downtown part of the city. Walking through these ornate passages feels like time travelling back to the era when Leipzig enjoyed the status of being one of Europe’s leading trade cities. I pass by the elegant Cafe Riquet with its two copper Elephant heads flanking the stunning art nouveau facade. We end up in the grand Markt square flanked by the beautiful Old Town Hall. There’s a huge outdoor farmers market packed with local traders. The air is heavy with the scent of smoked fish, cheese and fresh bread. There’s a lot of people packed in the square with some degree of social distancing being observed. It is worth mentioning now that Leipzig and the greater Saxony area dealt really well with the coronavirus crisis and on the day we arrived, Leipzig had reported no new cases for the past 5 days.

We hop on the tram to Sudvorstadt. We were lucky to stay at a friends apartment for the weekend. She was out of town so we had the place to ourselves. I love Sudvorstadt. It’s a happy hippy concentration of nice bars, cafes and some really nice restaurants. Plus there is the wonderful Feinkost flea market and also the beautiful Clara Zetkin Park nearby. It is late in the afternoon and we’re hungry so we first head to a local Vietnamese restaurant. This was probably not our best meal of the trip but by no means was it bad. I think once you’ve tasted proper Vietnamese food in Vietnam, everything after that feels like a major disappointment. Still, it was ok and decent prices. It was a small hole in the wall kind of diner with a handful of social distanced tables outside and we were lucky to bag one of the remaining tables. After devouring our meal we head to an old favourite, the magnificently named Killywilly Irish pub. We sup on a pint of the not so local Lowenbrau beer. It was a pretty decent beer and I tell you what, after a train journey and on a muggy humid day, ice cold beer tastes like heaven. Killywilly is perfect for people watching and that pint of beer, was one of the best I had tasted for a long time. There is no greater comfort that being a stranger to town and watching the world go by.

Keen to preserve our modest budget, before heading back to the apartment we head to the nearby Aldi supermarket to buy breakfast essentials and some wine for the evening. God, I love Aldi. Incredibly good value. I wish we had one near our house in Berlin.

After chilling for a few hours in the apartment we headed out to see what Leipzig had to offer on a Friday evening. Our options were limited. Because of Covid, as with Berlin and the rest of Germany, all clubs were closed. Nightlife was restricted to mainly bars and restaurants. Bars, which only opened last week are allowed to open from 6 till 11.30pm. Plus, it is table only service in  the bars-no standing allowed. We went back to Killywilly but it was packed with no tables available. We then headed to three other nearby bars and were turned away from all of them-no tables available. This was a sobering reminder of the new reality of going out. On the other hand, it was great to see all the bars taking all the precautions and making their customers feel safe. We were close to giving up but tried one final bar- Horns Erben and we got lucky. A popular location for live music, on the night, the bar was only open. Nice spaced out tables, place dimly lit , soft crackle of something jazzy in the background and the nice hum of human conversation-it was as close to the real thing of having a drink in a bar and we loved it. Sabrina had a delicious whisky sour while I went for a Vodka Mate drink which was OK. Next time, I would be better sticking to something more traditional cocktail wise. We went home happy.

The next day was a cloudy one with occasional breaks of sunshine. The aim was to walk and see as much of the city on foot. We first headed to the nearby Clara Zetkin Park which we had missed out on during our visit in 2018. I didn’t know much about the history of the park but it was beautiful to wonder through. There’s towering oak trees arching over wide marked out paths lined with neatly arranged colourful flowers and the odd pond -it looks very idyllic and blissful.

In the heart of the park there’s the Glashaus im Clarapark restaurant and bar. It’s just hit 12 and there’s a few people having a beer or enjoying some coffee and kuchen. We decided to stop for a cheeky beer. With plenty of outdoor tables, social distancing wasn’t an issue. The weather was perfect too. I think while going to the toilet I must have counted 4 hand sanitising stations so top marks to the restaurant.

With a spark in our step we then headed further, soon crossing the iconic Sachsenbrucke. There’s a few people gathered around on the bridge with takeaway coffees. Below us on the river , there’s a few people sauntering up river on their kayaks. A part of us wanted to just sit there all day and watch the comings and going of people. We soon nudge our way out of the park in the direction of the hip neighbourhood of Plagwitz, another favourite part of the city for us.

We come across another stunning bridge Könneritzbrucke that marks the entrance to the neighbourhood of Plagwitz. We pause for awhile to admire some of the beautiful 19th century industrial architecture lining the canal here. As our eyes swim in the canal, suddenly a man in a Venetian gondola comes into view with a few people in tow. It is a surreal sight that I did not expect in Leipzig-later I discovered that the nearby Ristorante da Vito offers its customers a ride on their gondola to admire some of the fine industrial architecture lining the canal.

Halloumi and Falafel mixed teller at Salon Casablanca- so good!

In Plagwitz we head for lunch at an old favourite, Salon Casablanca. The food here is fabulous, well priced and service is fab. Despite being a Saturday, Karl Heine Strasse did look pretty quiet. I wasn’t sure because it was the afternoon or maybe there was a distinct lack of tourists. The bars were closed because of the restricted hours so that could have been a factor. The cafes were busy though.

We wanted to visit another old favourite, the nearby Spinnerei but due to the coronavirus, the complex remains off limits for visitors which is a shame. The Kunstkraftwerk, another favourite museum was open but we were not to keen on the Vincent Van Gogh experience so we headed back up Lutzner Strasse to another old favourite Tapetenwerk. As we had expected, the Tapetenwerk was also closed and off limits like the Spinnerei. Last time we were visiting, they were hosting their biannual Tapetenwerkfest when all the galleries open their doors to visitors all night. It was such an incredible atmosphere with all the people, music and food. Our heart sank a little at the sight of the empty yard and the closed ateliers.

Fabio and Andre

As we left the silence courtyard and turned back on the main road, in the distance I spotted a small bar with a’ Delta Coffee’ sign visible. Now, if any of you have been to Portugal, you will be familiar with Delta Coffee. I really love their coffee so I thought we could swing by for a cup. We discovered the bar was actually a Portuguese bar and run by two guys from Madeira! Now, for those of you not aware or new to the blog, you will probably not know that I once lived in Madeira. 4 years I think. Incredibly beautiful island , wonderful people and yes, the island has some wonderful food and drink to savour. Besides stocking a range of popular Portuguese beers like Sagres and Super Bock they also had the native Madeiran beer, Coral. So I had treat myself and Sabrina to a bunch of corals. While sipping on the Coral I then had to ask Andre and Fabio, the owner if they could make us a very traditional and special Madeiran drink, poncha and they said yes! A poncha is the most typical of Madeiran drinks and is a mix of Aguardente de cana which is distilled from the sugar cane that grows on the island, lemon peel and sugar or honey. You can have poncha with orange or passion fruit but the guys made us the real thing. Boy, oh boy, this stuff blows your socks off. If you are ever in Leipzig and curious to learn more about Madeira and its cuisine, please go to their bar.

Our head was in the clouds after those drinks. We went home to rest for awhile, feeling quite drained from the long walk. Maybe a sensory overload we were not used to after weeks, months of being cooped up indoors? It was a warm wonderful evening and I was keen for Sabrina to checkout Conne Island, a bastion of Leipzig subculture that and a local hub of everything alternative with an iconic skatepark. It also is a popular venue for musicians from all walks of life. I had visited Conne Island briefly back in 2015 when we came to film a video about streetart culture in Germany and really fell in love with the vibe of this place.

We slowly walked our way south towards Connewitz from Sudvorstadt. It’s close to 9 but the sky is still partially bright and there’s a soft warm breeze. I can hear random pockets of laughter bursting through the air, carrying on their crests the occasional hum of music blaring from a radio and also the heavy waft of beer mixed with smoke. It feels emotional. Like meeting an old friend.

In Connewitz, we stumble upon an impromptu concert outside Könich Heinz bar, a popular local divey bar hangout that attracts a colourful mix of characters. It’s probably the first concert of any kind I’ve heard for months and we immediately stop to listen to the music. The band was called Bar Philosophen and their music was jazzy and uplifting. Everyone was snapping their fingers and singing along with the charismatic lead singer. It was an emotional moment. Music. People. A warm beautiful evening. A cold beer in hand. What more could you ask? We catch the last 2 songs of their outdoor gig and then move onto Conne Island. We arrived at the skatepark shrouded under a cloak of darkness except for a bunch of people gathered around dim candle lit tables drinking some wine. There is a bar onsite but it was closing as we arrived. One of the ladies sitting on the tables intervened and brought us two beers and invited us to linger which was nice. Its tough to make out the place at night but still I was happy we came and Sabrina had the chance to see the place. Afterwards, we head home with mixed feelings. These are the things we miss. The endless freedom of the night, of serendipitous conversations … the feeling of letting go and for a brief few moments, losing ourselves.

The following day is a miserably cloudy morning. Perfect Sunday to laze in bed and almost do nothing. However there was the small matter of the Black Lives Matter solidarity march at 1pm near the main train station. We had sadly missed the epic demonstration in Berlin the day before but were excited to be joining the Leipzig demo and show our solidarity with our black friends in Germany and around the world. The last demo I went to was 18 years ago was when I went marching to protest against racism with a bunch of my university students in Glasgow. 18 years on, countless protests later, at the ripe old age of 41, here I was again, along with Sabrina, marching against to protest against the injustice of the events of the past weeks and also the centuries of previous injustice against black people. Given the current threat of Covid, I was nervous at the prospect of being in close proximity to thousands of people. But, we both decided it was important to show up and stand for what we believe in. We live in such crazy times. I can sense a general dissillusionment with politics and the general lack of moral leadership in the world.  In times like this when we feel hurt, directionless and feel like we are losing our purpose, it is important to remember that we can make a change, if we stand together. In our case it was to standing shoulder to shoulder with thousands of strangers and say that the system has to change, that black lives matter and they cannot continue to live in the dark shadow of hatred, ignorance and fear. We cannot to live in ignorance and turn a blind eye. We have to make a change, however difficult the road lies ahead. I have more to unwrap and talk about this topic but this probably is a blog post for another day.

There was a wonderful irony that we were marching in Leipzig.

Leipzig is after all , the city of heroes, where back in 1989, the locals were the first in East Germany to protest against the oppression of the GDR regime. Dubbed the ‘Peaceful Revolution’ , the locals set in chain a series of events that eventually led to the reunification of Germany.

We leave Leipzig the next day, our hearts filled with hope and some optimism for what the future holds for us.

The journey begins again.

It is not a road I know but I will walk it. I know this road ahead will be difficult , filled with risks and riddled with difficult compromises. Then again, I never signed up for an easy life. Did you?

If you’re planning a trip to Leipzig, checkout our earlier guide to the best things to do in Leipzig.

The first thing that strikes you about Potsdam is how damn beautiful this city looks, day or night. There’s a wonderful sense of order and symmetry of the streets that could easily be from some Wes Anderson movie set. Walking through it, you feel like you’ve entered into some sort of medieval fairytale. As the royal residence of the Prussian kings and the German Kaiser until 1918, Potsdam definitely has an air of grandeur. The sheer scale of the city is mind boggling. 

Potsdam was the crowning achievement for Prussian royalty. The project brought together the most celebrated architects and landscapers of its time. Intended as “a picturesque, pastoral dream” the city would remind its residents of their relationship with nature and reason. Frederick the Great built Sanssouci Palace to escape the bustling German capital of Berlin. He found his peace here and named the palace Sanssouci, which means”without worry.” To the current day, Potsdam continues to have the air of a city where you can have no worries. I visited in January and even in the depths of winter, there are many signs of life. With a handful of excellent bars and stylish restaurants – plus thanks to its excellent university nearby, Potsdam remains a popular year round destination and the perfect day trip from Berlin.

1. Sanssouci Park and Palace

Start the day with a walk in the beautiful Sanssouci Park , the expansive complex of palaces and baroque gardens surrounding the central Sanssouci Palace. Even on a cold sunny day with many of the key buildings closed in winter, it is a joy to to roam through this park. Entering the park via its eastern entrance you will be greeted by a grand obelisk which was built in 1747 as an exit to the park. In your direct line of vision at a distance of 2kms you will have your first glimpse of the stunning New Palace. As you enter the park you will see on your left the triple-nave columned basilica and the adjoining campanile tower of the beautiful Church of Peace which was built by King Frederick William IV. in 1854.

Chinese House, Sanssouci Park

There a number of buildings in Sanssouci Park which include the Picture Gallery, Chinese House, New Palace, Temple of Friendship, Antique Temple, Roman Baths, Church of Peace, Dragon House, Orangery Palace, Charlottenhof Palace and more.  I had time to visit only the Sanssouci , the Charlottenhof Palace and the Belvedere on the Pfingstberg but if you are visiting in the summer, I definitely would recommend setting aside a good part of the day to see all the buildings.

Situated on the brow of a hill, overlooking a terraced vineyard Sanssouci Palace is the grandest of all the buildings and often dubbed the Prussian Versailles. Although built on a much smaller scale than its French sister , (Sanssouci contains just ten rooms) and adopting the Rococo rather than French Baroque style, nevertheless, Sanssouci Palace is a stunning complex to visit. From the Marble Room where Frederick met his guests to the gorgeous beautiful circular library which contains a huge collection of Voltaire’s works, there’s a lot of rich detail in each room to drink in. My favourite room is the last one in the tour – the  ‘flower room’ or Voltaire room, which Voltaire had the honour of staying in during his time in Potsdam. The walls are adorned with ornate reliefs of exotic birds and flowers that were being grown in Frederick’s garden.  There was so much of his personal taste in the design and decoration of the palace that many scholars refer to the style in the palace as “Frederician Rococo.”

Please note that visits to Sanssouci Palace are bound to fixed admission times. I recommended that you buy your ticket ( Tickets costs €19 and give you access to all the of the SPSG palaces in Potsdam. If you are visiting with family, I recommend buying the Sanssouci+ Family Ticket which costs €49.00   in advance via the online ticket shop and be there at the time allocated -if you’re late by the odd minute or two, you’ll miss your tour.

Address: Maulbeerallee, 14469 Potsdam, Germany

New Palace Sanssouci Park

2. New Palace

If your time is limited, alongside the Sanssouci Palace I would make time  to visit its counterpart on the western fringe of Sanssouci Park, the New Palace. Built after the Seven Years’ War with over 200 rooms, the Palace is considered the last example of Prussian Baroque architecture. The most distinctive feature of the New Palace, which you can see from afar is the grand Baroque dome with the Three Graces holding the Prussian crown. The north and south auxiliary wings of the place also have domes with gilded eagles. One of the standout highlights of visiting the Palace and its various adjacent buildings are seeing the 400 statues made by renowned sculptors of the day. Other highlights include the Marble Hall (Marmorsaal) which has many notable paintings, in particular four enormous works commissioned before the Seven Years’ War, the marble floored Grotto Hall (Grottensaal) with its exquisite frescoes. the Concert Room (Konzertzimmer), and the Palace Theatre.

Visits to the New Palace are bound to fixed admission times just as with the Sanssouci Palace. I would definitely book your tickets well in advance. Note that in the winter, you can only visit the New Palace with a guided tour.

Address: Am Neuen Palais, 14469 Potsdam, Germany

Winzerburg

3. Winzerburg

When you leave the Sanssouci Park from the eastern entrance don’t forget to checkout the Winzerberg, a vineyard during the time of Kaiser Frederick. During World War II after centuries of disuse the vineyard became an air raid shelter for citizens of Potsdam. After falling into decay for decades after the war, the vineyard was revived by local citizens. It is open to the public only on Thursday and Friday evenings between 5pm and 8pm where you can enjoy a glass of wine and some antipasti-if you’re lucky to be in Potsdam during this time, please visit. As you can see from my photo, it was sadly closed.

4. Best viewpoint in Potsdam? Mühlenberg in Potsdam

Behind the Winzerburg is one of the best view points of the city- the Mühlenberg in Potsdam, located between Gregor-Mendel-Straße and Weinbergstraße. The view and the place was not the greatest in winter but I’ve been told it is a lot more beautiful in Spring/Summer (Share a picture with me if you do visit in Summer or Spring).

5. Brandenburger Tor

I wind down from the observation deck towards the main city. When entering the town via the western end of Brandenburger Straße, you’re most likely to come across a Roman triumphal arch which is Potsdam’s very own Brandenburger Tor and not to be mistaken with the Brandenburg Gate of Berlin. The gate was built in 1770/71 by Carl von Gontard and Georg Christian Unger on the order of Frederick II of Prussia.

6. Lunch at Madami, Mom’s Vietnamese Kitchen

Passing through the Brandenburg Gate into the city’s pedestrian zone , on your right was my lunch spot for the day: Madami, Mom’s Vietnamese Kitchen ( Brandenburger Str. 5, 14467 Potsdam, Germany) I’ve eaten at the Berlin branch of this restaurant and the food is always good quality and good value for money. Sabrina ordered the Tofu Pho (€8.80) and I had the veggie seitan curry with rice ( €9) Both dishes were tasty and filling but please don’t expect mind-blowing Vietnamese cuisine.

Museum Barberini, Van Gogh Exhibition

7. Afternoon of modern art at the Museum Barberini

In the afternoon, I head to the Museum Barberini which opened as recently as 2017 and focuses on works from artists from the former German Democratic Republic. Berlin is blessed with some fantastic art museums and the Barberini is up there with them, showcasing a fine collection plus when I visited they had a fantastic exhibition of Van Gogh’s.  I loved the Van Gogh exhibition and seeing the art of some the prominent GDR artists but I’m not sure if the museum is worth the full ticket price of €14-€18. Note that you get 25% off the price with a Berlin Welcome Card or if you bought a ticket to  one of these  places: Cecilienhof Palace, Marble Palace, New Palace or Picture Gallery.

8. A touch of Netherlands in Potsdam: The Dutch Quarter

After the Museum head to perhaps one of the most unusual and beautiful places in Potsdam , the Dutch Quarter of ‘Little Amsterdam’. You will feel as if you are in the Netherlands, when only a short time ago you were in Germany! Four squares of over 130 Dutch-style gabled houses, with quaint white-green shuttered windows, red Dutch brick and small manicured gardens in front of the terraced houses, seem like a real-life Vermeer painting. The Dutch Quarter was built by Frederick William I to encourage skilled Dutch craftsmen to immigrate to Germany. Dutch architect Jan Bouman designed the quarter between 1732-42. Despite little damage during WW2, the quarter deteriorated and had to be extensively restored in the 1970’s. Pubs, galleries, shops, and restaurants make this quarter a lovely place to take a trip back into the past.

Address: Neighbourhood in Potsdam, Germany

9. Picnic dinner from Bio Company supermarket

For dinner, we decide to have a mini picnic in our apartment with a bottle of wine from the nearby Bio Company supermarket (Gutenbergstraße 20-22, Potsdam, Germany ). Our picnic consisted of some fresh bread, tin of mixed beans, olives with stuffed garlic, mussels in a tomato garlic sauce plus a jar of hummus washed down with a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon. (Total price: €15 -prices are pretty decent for an Organic Bio Supermarket)

Olga Kneipe

10. Evening beers at 11-line bar and Olga Kneipe

Potsdam’s nightlife is limited compared to Berlin but there’s a handful of excellent bars worth checking out. Our first stop of the night is the 11-line bar/cafe/art gallery which is a popular hangout spot for students from the local university. Beer prices are decent- bottle of excellent Polish lager, Tyskie costs just €3. ( Maybe €2.50?). They have a ton of board games to play plus equally its the kind of homely place you can curl up with a book and a glass of wine or cup of coffee. Afterwards we head for a beer at the wonderful Olga Kneipe, a LGBT/Queer/Gay/Alt bar run by volunteers. Its a very stripped down, rustic kind of pub filled with people from all walks of life and the beer is delightfully cheap-you can enjoy a bottle of the classic Sterni beer for just €1.20. 

Day 2

Suzanne, my wonderful guide to uncovering the stories and secrets of Cecilienhof palace

Round table used for the Potsdam Conference at Cecilienhof Palace

11. Cecilienhof Palace

I start day 2 of our 48 Hours in Potsdam with a guided tour of the Cecilienhof Palace and the grounds by the wonderful Suzanne.

To give you some background-the Palace was the last Hohenzollern palace, built for the crown prince during the years 1913-1917. During the night of April 14, 1945, a British air raid destroyed large parts of the inner city of Potsdam. Battles against Soviet military units during the last days of April 1945 caused still more heavy damage. However the parks and their palaces remained almost unscathed. After the war ended, from the end of July until the beginning of August 1945, the Potsdam Agreement was negotiated and signed between Churchill, Truman and Stalin in Cecilienhof Palace.

Suzanne explained that Cecilienhof Palace was also the place where US president Harry Truman first revealed that the USA possessed a new ‘ powerful weapon’, without actually mentioning that they developed an atomic bomb. Legend states that Truman authorized its use on Hiroshima while at Cecilienhof, over the phone.

Other interesting quirky facts shared by Suzanne about the Palace included how a section of the Berlin Wall once stood on the grounds of the palace.  After passing hands from the Soviets to the East Germans, the Palace became a hotel and in 1961 border fortifications of the Berlin Wall were built along the shoreline in front of the palace blocking the view of the Jungfernsee lake.

Afterwards Suzanne took me to see the remains of the Muschelgrotte nearby the palace. The reconstruction of the grotto remains a passion project for Suzanne which was originally designed and built by Andreas Ludwig Krüger in 1791 as a refuge for the royals to escape during warm summer days and to be as close as possible with nature. After falling into severe decay over the last few decades, Suzanne and a group of locals have started the long process of reconstruction.

Afterwards Suzanne took me to the north of the New Garden to the lofty heights of the Belvedere on the Pfingstberg which as its name suggests, was built by Frederick the Great as a viewing platform for his visitors. Sadly during the winter the Belvedere remains closed to visitors but I can imagine it must be beautiful in the summer when the grounds and its surrounding vineyards play host to weddings and summer soirees.

Alexander Nevsky Memorial Church, Potsdam

Dumplings ‘Pelmeni’ at the Russiche Teestube, Potsdam

12. A piece of Russia in Germany: Alexandrowka

A Russian village in the heart of Potsdam? Potsdam is not only home to a Dutch Quarter but a 19th-century Russian heritage village called Alexandrowka.

Consisting of 14 farms and an orthodox church, Alexandrowka was originally conceived as a settlement for 12 Russians who originally had come to Potsdam as Prisoners of War as part of the Prussian war with France against Russia. The 12 Russians found employment as singers and became part of King Frederick William III’s choir after the truce in 1812. Constructed by an Italian designer, the colony was intended to be a homage to Russian heritage and culture. It was named Alexandrowka in honour of the late Tsar. The houses passed through descendents of the 12 Russian singers till the last descendant , a member of the Schischkoff family, passed away in 2008. In recognition of the unique architectural heritage and their beautiful facades which have remained unaltered since being built, Alexandrowka was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999.

Besides visiting the village, visitors can also have the pleasure of dining in the colony’s very own tearoom- ‘Russiche Teestube’ serves up authentic hearty Russian cuisine in an authentic setting. I highly recommend trying their ‘Pelmeni’ dumplings-some of the best dumplings I’ve ever tasted! Don’t have high expectations about the service but it is nevertheless an experience not to be missed when visiting Potsdam.

13. Museum of Natural History

Potsdam has a ton of great museums to explore but if you’re keen to dig into the natural history of the area , pop into informative Museum of Natural History which has exhibits of species ranging from indigenous mammals, birds, reptiles to amphibians and insects in their natural habitats. Highlight of the visit for many is the freshwater aquarium, where more than 40 living fish species can be observed.  Tickets cost €4 with discounted tickets available for visitors on the first Monday of the month.

Filmmuseum Potsdam

14. Filmmuseum Potsdam

As a keen movie lover, I was gutted that Filmpark Babelsberg was closed in winter but the next best thing to learning about the region’s unique film heritage is visiting the Filmmuseum Potsdam. The star feature of the museum is their permanent exhibition titled “Dream factory – 100 years of film in Babelsberg”, where you can dive into the rich history of the Babelsberg film studios, the oldest film factory in the world. There’s a treasure trove of material, trivia linked to some of the most famous films shot there which include Oscar winners like “Inglourious Basterds” and the “Grand Budapest Hotel.” There’s a bunch of fun interactive stuff -my favourite was the ‘casting box’ where I  auditioned for a very famous German Film (We had Sonnenallee ) and I was then miraculously inserted into some of the movie’s iconic scenes! Other fun interactive stuff includes learning about music and sound in an acoustically shielded room and singing a duet with German singer Zarah Leander. Tickets to the exhibition are €5 and free for children under the age of 10.

15. Dinner at Le’s Cyclo

Afterwards we head for dinner at a hip Vietnamese diner (we clearly have a thing for Vietnamese food as you might have guessed by now) Le’s Cyclo.

The menu is limited but focuses on classic Vietnamese street food from the classic Pho to their delicious Banh Bao Burger (€10.90). We opted for the latter and alongside their chunky potato fries and homemade lemonade , this was a very satisfying meal and end to our 48 Hours in Potsdam.

Jagertor Potsdam

5 other places in Potsdam to checkout

Glienicke Bridge

Famously known as the ‘Bridge of Spies’ – this fabulous bridge spanning the River Havel and the border between erstwhile East and West Germany, was a frequent place to exchange captured spies during the Cold War era. The bridge spans that region of the Havel that is quite narrow, with two lakes to the north and south. The proximity of Glienicke Palace is what lends its name to the bridge. In 1660 a wooden bridge was built at this location, superseded by another wooden bridge in the 1800’s and an iron bridge in 1907. An unexplored shell hit the bridge in 1945 and finally a steel bridge, was built in 1949, bridging East and West Germany. Originally, allowing right of passage between inhabitants of East and West Germany in the early years of the Cold War, in 1952, East Germany closed the bridge down to West Germans and West Germany retaliated with the building of the Berlin Wall in 1961. After the Fall of the Berlin Wall, the Glienicke Bridge was finally opened to pedestrians and barricades were dismantled during the German reunification.

Address: Konigstrasse, 14109 Berlin, Germany

Babelsberg Park

Babelsberg Park is a green space bordering Tiefen See Lake on the River Havel. The Park, slopes down to the water’s edge and is a scene to behold especially in autumn, when the leaves are a riot of colour. Glimpses of Glienicke Bridge can be had from the Park. Various water bodies, artificial lakes and water reservoirs are scattered across the Park, an observation point on a hill. Near to the highest point is the semi-circular Loggia Alexandra built by Prince Charles in 1869, to commemorate his sister’s death.

The Palace of the same name, was the summer residence of German Emperor William I. The Palace resembles a castle, built in the Gothic Revival style.

Address: Park Babelsberg 10, 14482 Potsdam, Germany

Charlottenhof Palace

The Charlottenhof Palace is another palace in Sanssouci-Park which if time permits, is definitely worth a visit. The architectural style is Neo-Classical and is currently a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park with its various buildings dates back to the 18^th century. The property was gifted to Frederick Willian IV of Prussia by his father and the architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel was commissioned to build a small palace on the foundations of a pre-existing farm house. The beauty of the palace lies in how well preserved are the interior design of the ten rooms, particularly the furniture designed by the architect himself. The most important room in the palace is the one designed after Caesar’s tent. The ceiling and walls of the Tent Room are covered in blue and white striped wallpaper as well as the window treatments and furnishings. The beautiful gardens were designed by architect Peter Joseph Lenne. He was successful in converting a large stretch of marshy ground to an English garden with lawn, trees and water fountains.

Address: Geschwister-School-Strasse 34A, 14471 Potsdam, Germany

Orangery Palace

The Orangery Palace is a beautiful palace and another building situated in Sansoucci Park that features on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Built in the Renaissance Revival style, the palace was built in 1851 by Friedrich August Stuler and Ludwig Ferdinand Hesse. The building has a 300 m long front, built in the Italian Renaissance style, very much reminiscent of the Villa Medici in Rome and the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. The actual palace is the building in the middle with the twin towers. Points of interest include the wide Plant Hall, allegorical figures of the months and seasons in the hidden alcoves of the garden, the royal apartments and more. The Renaissance paintings and frescoes, the Rococo Style royal apartments, are to be enjoyed indoors. Outside in the expansive gardens, the Norse and Sicilian Gardens with pines, myrtle and laurel are places not to be missed.

Address: An der Orangerie 3-5, 14469 Potsdam, Germany

Pfaueninsel

Pfaueninsel or “Peacock Island” also forms part of the Palaces and Parks of Potsdam and Berlin UNESCO World Heritage Site. The island is a nature reserve and is a protected place for many species of wild birds. The island first gained importance in 1793 under the rule of Frederick William II when he had the Pfaueninsel Castle built for his mistress. It was designed as his summer residence by Johann Gottlieb Brendel with an English garden encircling it. Other spots of interest include a dairy – the Meierei, built to resemble a Gothic Revival Church. The Palmenhaus housed exotic plants like tobacco, bananas, artichokes, rhubarb, canna lilies but unfortunately burnt to the ground in 1880. Stone columns designate the spot where the Palmenhaus once stood. Peacock Island is a place to visit for its history, natural beauty, flora and wildlife including free-ranging peacocks and exotic birds. In late Spring, be sure to inspect the blooming rose garden. In Summer, bring a blanket and pack a picnic as there is a designated picnic area in the Liegeweise, well equipped with its own biergarten.

Getting there: You can reach the island by ferry and a small map would suffice to help you navigate the major landmarks on the island.

Where to stay in Potsdam on a budget

Situated in the heart of the Dutch Quarter, Hotel NH Potsdam is one of the better value hotels in Potsdam with prices around €80. Rooms are clean, comfortable and the breakfast pricey but fantastic. The recently renovated MAXX by Steigenberger Sanssouci Potsdam hotel is also a safe bet with comfortable beds, large rooms, nice staff and a good breakfast. Room rates start around €80 mark here.

The best budget friendly option is renting an apartment via Airbnb. We rented this wonderful apartment just few hundred metres from the entrance to Sansoucci Park. Located in a restored listed building dating from 1734 and run by a former set designer from the advertising industry, the place had a lot of character and wonderful design details. Wonderful bed, well equipped kitchen and spacious bathroom- was a perfect base for exploring Potsdam and great value, prices start around €70 mark.

Disclaimer

I visited Potsdam as part of a new storytelling project with UNESCO and the new World Heritage Journeys of the European Union project. This project implemented with the support of the European Union in partnership with National Geographic brings together 34 World Heritage sites through four different thematic itineraries: Royal Europe, Ancient Europe, Underground Europe and Romantic Europe. For more details and plan your own UNESCO World Heritage adventure, hop over to the Unesco World Heritage Journeys of Europe website. Big thank you to UNESCO for bringing me to Potsdam and also a huge thank you to Tino and the team at PMSG Potsdam Marketing und Service GmbH for helping plan my trip. 

Hanna Gast. Goslar local

Goslar is a small town in Germany’s Lower Saxony but for all its smallness, it certainly packs a lot of punch on the importance scale. For here, is the rags to riches story of a small, unassuming town, hidden in the Harz mountains that was propelled to unprecedented levels of wealth and prosperity from the simple discovery of silver ore in a nearby mountain. The rich silver mines discovered in the Rammelsberg mountain shifted the fortunes of many generations of Goslar residents, attracted the attention of the early Holy Roman Emperors who deemed the area a suitable residence, fit for kings. Today, the Rammelsberg mines have been depleted of all their wealth, but the town of Goslar and the Rammelsberg Mines and are an important tourist site, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and serve as a reminder that it takes just one landmark discovery to shift the fortunes of an entire town, region and country. Here is a list of my 13 best things to do in Goslar in the form of a 48 hour itinerary.

Day 1

1. Market Square of Goslar

What better place to start our exploration of Goslar than at the heart of the Old Town Square – at the Market Fountain. The Market Fountain might appear as a single structure but in reality it is a composite creation where details have been added or changed over a period of six centuries. Just to give you an idea of its different layers the lower bronze basin is from the 12^th century, with fine Romanesque details. The smaller upper basin, a 100 years younger, sits jauntily atop the lower basin like a fine goblet, sending out small streams of water. The golden eagle perched on the top is from the 18th century and originally of gold, although nowadays after getting stolen too often is just painted into gilt glory.

In medieval times, many people couldn’t believe that humans could carry such a large fountain to the middle of the market square. Therefore, it was thought that the devil himself had brought it there. Following this legend, some people used to believe that if you would knock against the fountain at midnight during a full moon, the devil would appear from the market fountain.

Glockenspiel, Goslar Market Square

The Market Square is also the place of the Glockenspiel. Merry chimes ring out four times a day and is a sight worth waiting around for. The figures being shown tell the story of the beginnings of Goslar’s mining industry starting with the knight Ramm, whose horse discovered the ore on the mountain, up to modern times.

Krodo Altar, Goslarer Museum

2. Goslarer Museum

If you are particularly interested in the cultural and sociological history of Harz and Goslar, The Goslarer Museum is a definitely worth a stopover. Documenting a millennia of city history, the museum is housed quite appropriately in a monastery that dates back to 1514.

Exhibits of special interest include a cabinet of curiosities, in the shape of coins with the Goslar mint stamp that date back to the tenth century.  Artefacts that were once housed in Goslar Cathedral are also on display here. An example is the Krodo Altar, the sole surviving church altar piece made of metal from the Romanesque period and is therefore, of great religious and historical importance. It’s antiquity probably dates as far back as the early twelfth century.

Tip: Most of the exhibits have German descriptions but there is an English guidebook -just ask the lovely staff at the reception.

Address: Konigstrasse 1, 38640 Goslar, Germany

Entry prices: €4. If you are planning to visit the next door Zinnfigurenmuseum, a Kombi-Ticket for both costs just €6. Tickets for the kids starts at €2.

3. Lunch at Goslar Die Butterhanne

If you are looking for good quality traditional fare in a touristy but cosy local setting, then you can’t go wrong with the Goslar Die Butterhanne. Start off with a glass of the local Gose beer- a top-fermented local beer that is brewed by the Brauhaus Goslar next door. You can choose from the light Gose Hell version and the Gose Dunkel version. The menu is varied , generous portions and well priced- choose from healthy salads ( Starts from €6.20) to Flammkuchen ( Starts from €8.40 ) and more heartier dishes like Beer Goulash with Spatzle and Red Cabbage (€10.20)

The name of the restaurant is a nod towards one of the town’s most infamous citizen, the Butter Hannah, a charming young lady who was known to casually reveal her bottom to local citizens while churning the butter. You can see the Butterhanne on the walls of the Brusttuch House along a riot of carved wooden figures ranging from red devils to angels.

Address: Marktkirchhof 3, 38640 Goslar

Zinnfiguren Museum, Goslar

4. Zinnfiguren-Museum Goslar- Germany’s most beautiful tin museum

If you love miniatures ( I’m a huge fan of the Miniatur Wunderland in Hamburg) the Zinnfiguren Museum in Goslar, described as the most beautiful museum of its kind in Germany is a must visit. Upholding the legacy of 1000 years of mining history in the region the museum is dedicated to the display of over 10,000 hand-painted tin figures, diorama and the cultural history of the development of the art of tin figure making. There are 30 dioramas that depict fairy stories that will surely captivate audiences, young and old.

The museum came into existence in 1985 and visitors are presented with the unique opportunity of making and painting a unique tin figure themselves. If you so wish, you can purchase a figure to take home has a memento. The museum is housed in a 500 year old mill that was once part of a tannery.

Address: Klapperhagen 1, 38640 Goslar, Germany

Entry prices: If you are planning to visit the next door Goslarer Museum, a Kombi-Ticket for both costs just €6. Kombi-ticket for children and young people: EUR 3.50

5. Imperial Palace of Goslar

Built in the Romanesque style, The Imperial Palace of Goslar is one of the largest, oldest, and best preserved secular buildings from the 11th century in Germany and enjoys UNESCO World Heritage status alongside Goslar’s Old Town and the Rammelsberg mines. The palace was famously described by the chronicler Lambert of Hershel’s as being the “most famous residence in the empire” and certainly for the time (early 11^th century) it was a very impressive building. Despite falling into a state of disrepair for several centuries, the palace reconstructed in 1879, still remains an impressive structure to date.

In the palace’s upper hall visitors can admire huge mural paintings dating from the 19th century by the artist Hermann Wislicenus that showcase scenes from old German legends as well as pictures of royalty. In the Ulrich chapel next door visitors can view the royal sarcophagus of the Holy Roman Emperor Heinrich III.

Address: Kaiserbleek 6, 38640 Goslar

Entry prices: Adults €7.50 and Children/Kids €4.50

6. Walk through the Old Town of Goslar

Afterwards if you have time to spare, I would definitely recommend a walk through the Old Town of Goslar. It is a very charming, beautiful preserved town traversed by the gurgling Abzucht River. The fabulous Market Square, ornate Gothic arches, picturesque half-timbered houses and cobbled streets transport visitors to another time, steeped in medieval splendour. The town also is in a scenic location, nestled against the backdrop of the northwestern hills of the Harz mountains. It is one of these mountains, Rammelsberg that provided abundant mining opportunities to the people of Goslar in the form of lead, copper and silver mines-more on that later. There are many places of interest to visit in the Old Town including the War Memorial at Barrack Yard and Thomaswall, The Medieval Imperial Palace, and the Zwinger Tower and Pond.

Top tip

During your walk don’t miss out on the beautiful preserved Siemenshaus (Schreiberstraße 12 ) built in 1693 which was the ancestral home of the Siemens family who originated in Goslar. They started off as brewers ( downstairs of the home was the beer brewing room-in the 17th century more than 380 properties in Goslar had the right to brew beer ) then became tradesmen, shoemakers before moving to Brunswick and then Berlin.

Top tip

If you are travelling with young ones or family, I highly recommend a ride on the Choo Choo Train to add to the air of nostalgia. The tours are run by friendly locals and give you an excellent feeling of the city. The duration of the tours are about 30 minutes and it runs from Easter until October, and during the Christmas Market.

Pricing

Choo Choo Train:

Adults: €6,50

Children: € 3,00

Brusttuch House, Goslar

7. Checkout the Bare bottoms of Goslar : Dukatenmännchen and Butter Hannah

Not everything in Goslar is charming and fairytale like. Be prepared for the ribaldry of the Bare Bottoms of Goslar in the form of the infamous Butter Hannah, a charming young lady casually scratching her behind while churning the butter. This, along with a riotous array of carved wooden figures in the forms of red devils, angels and a dignified lady riding a goat backwards in the nude are to be found as reliefs on the exterior timber frames of the Brusttuch House. The house built in 1521 is now a hotel and restaurant and has an architecturally interesting trapezoid shape.

Another quirky statue not to miss on the stunning exterior of the medieval guildhall, the Kaiserworth (on Goslar’s market square) is the Dukatenmännchen which depicts the cheeky figure of a man defecating gold coins. The figure and act of pooping coins is a nod perhaps to the act of illegal money lending which was rife at the time.

Brauhaus Goslar

8. Beers at Brauhaus Goslar

Situated in a half timbered house right next door to the Die Butterhanne on the market square , stop over at the Bauhaus Goslar for a glass of Goslar’s original beer, the Gose which is named after the little river that runs through the city. Dating back to 995 AD, this is one of Germany’s oldest breweries. Choose from 4 beers on tap and also dine on classic hearty local cuisine in their cosy traditional Brauhaus style medieval interior-perfect place to end your day in Goslar.

Address: Marktkirchhof 2, 38640 Goslar

Day 2

9. Ore Mines of Rammelsburg

The Rammelsberg Ore Mines are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and their discovery propelled the fortunes of an entire region. The first records of mining in Rammelsburg, a 2000 foot mountain in the Harz range, date back to the Middle Ages. The Saxon chronicler, Widukind of Corvey, in 968 describes Emperor Otto the Great, opening the silver mines and having the precious metal extracted. In 1005, lured by the region’s prosperity, King Henry II of Germany had the Imperial Palace built at the foot of the Rammelsburg. The main metals extracted from the variety of ores found in the mines included silver, lead, zinc and copper. Mineral deposits were declared largely exhausted (after 30 million tonnes of ore extraction) in 1988 and the mines were closed. The disused mines have been preserved to serve as a history lesson for visitors, curious to know about the history and development of the region. The mines, now converted to a museum were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992.

Me in the drivers seat of the ‘Rolli-Mobil’ the original mining train

All tours to the mine start in the atmospheric miners changing room where you can see the miners work clothes suspended on metal wires. There are so many highlights to choose from visiting the mines. I loved my ride on a remodeled train wagon ‘Rolli-Mobil’ , an original mine train that takes you rattling and screeching into into the depths of the mine, just like the miners did.Inside the mine, Once inside the mine you can have a hands on demo of the original mining machines used by the miners and an insight into the working methods of miners. Another cool feature of visiting the mine is hopping on the incline elevator ( only one of its kind in Germany ), a new feature within the museum which originally would carry upto loads of upto 1.7 tonnes of iron ore to the ore processing facility. From the top you get a stunning panoramic view of the site and the Harz mountains in the distance. Other standout moments, include the incredible Roeder Gallery which with its innovative flatrod system and water wheels supporting pit drainage and helped hoisting the buckets of ore to the surface. Worth noting that Roeder’s water management system lasted from 1805 for almost 100 years till the advent of electricity!) During exploring the mines you will also notice in parts copper, zinc, sulphur, lead still oozing from the clammy rock walls of the tunnel. The colours are equally beautiful and petrifying.

Address: Bergtal 19, 38640 Goslar

Pricing

Adult: guided tour and museum visit: € 16

Children: guided tour and museum visit: € 9

Groups: guided tour and museum visit: €13 per person

Restaurant Alte Munze, Goslar

10. Lunch at Restaurant Alte Munze

Situated in the boutique 4 star Hotel Alte Munze, enjoy a very tasty lunch in their historic breakfast room which dates back to 1509. Definitely not the cheapest option in town but the food and the service here is wonderful-start with their delicious pumpkin orange soup (€6) and then choose their gnocchi in sage butter with pumpkin and mushrooms ( € 16.50 )

Address: Marktstraße 1, 38640 Goslar

11. Marktkirche Goslar

The first mention of the Evangelical Marktkirche of Goslar is found in 1151 and over the ages, due to redesign the church has suffered many changes. Despite the mix of Gothic,Romanesque and Renaissance design this unassuming yellow brick church with asymmetrical church steeples is a charming building.The north tower was rebuilt with a Renaissance-style cupola due to a fire in 1589. This is in fact the tower to be scaled in order to take in the best view of Goslar. Medieval stained glass windows, frescoes and a bronze baptismal font are all lovely period details.

Panoramic view of Goslar from the top of the Marktkirche Goslar

The 200 steps to the top will leave you breathless but the panoramic views will be worth it.

Address: Marktkirchhof 1, 38640 Goslar

Entry prices: Around €3 per person.

Monchehaus Museum, Goslar

12. Monchehaus Museum Goslar

This is a museum dedicated to modern art in the heart of Goslar. The museum features exhibitions by acclaimed international artists including those of Jospeh Beuys, Max Ernst, Georg Baselitz, Eduardo Chilida and others. The building, originally built in 1528 is a museum piece in itself, spread over three floors. Along with this is the citizen farmer’s house, also from 1528 with its half-timbered buildings, stone vaulted cellars and ornate sculpture garden.

The international award in the Arts, the prestigious “Kaiser Ring” is presented by the town of Goslar and every year the award recipient is asked to display their works at the Monchehaus.

Address: Monchestrasse 3, 38640 Goslar, Germany

Entry prices

Adults €5.00

Children / young people €1.50

13. Finish the trip with beers at Musikkneipe Ko

End your day in this classic German style kneipe ( with smokers room ) where you can expect well priced local priced beers , friendly service and classic pop, rock tunes from the 80’s.

Other Interesting facts about Goslar

Every 1st Sunday of June Goslar celebrating the UNESCO World Heritage Day – city guides, museums, churches and other different public buildings open their doors for the public.

Typical for the Harz region is the annual Walpurgis Party taking place on the night of the 30th April.

Planning your trip to Goslar

How to get to Goslar

Goslar is served by trains from Göttingen, Hanover, Braunschweig, and Halle/Saale every hour. From the station, you can reach Rammelsberg in 30 minutes with the bus line 803, direction “Bergbaumusem.” The bus stop is located directly at the station.

When to visit Goslar

Goslar Old Town, Rammelsberg Mines and Upper Harz Water System is a year-round destination. In peak season it is advisable to make a telephone reservation in advance given the popularity of the site. Also worth noting that the underground guided-tour group sizes are limited to just 25 participants so be prepared to wait.

How to Visit Rammelsberg Mines

Not that visits to the underground sections of the mine are only possible via guided tours. The mine train and tours through the Roeder tunnels take place every 30 minutes daily and require no prior notice.

The underground section of the site can get a bit cold reaching temperatures of 12°C and it quite be quite clammy, damp in places so dress appropriately. There are no age restrictions for guided tours, but the recommend minimum age is four years old.

I visited Goslar as part of a new storytelling project with UNESCO and the new World Heritage Journeys of the European Union project. This project implemented with the support of the European Union in partnership with National Geographic brings together 34 World Heritage sites through four different thematic itineraries: Royal Europe, Ancient Europe, Underground Europe and Romantic Europe. For more details and plan your own UNESCO World Heritage adventure, hop over to the Unesco World Heritage Journeys of Europe website. Big thank you to UNESCO for bringing me to Goslar and also a huge thank you to Franziska Hain and her wonderful team at GOSLAR marketing gmbh for the warm welcome. Shoutout also to the lovely people at Weltkulturerbe Rammelsberg- Museum & Besucherbergwerk for a wonderful morning at the mines.

From the island of Wangerooge to the fantastic all inclusive hostel-meets-resort concept in Neuharlingsiel , to the beautiful treehouse hostels of Panarbora in the Bergisches Land and to the final stop of our trip: the stunning dreamy Bavarian ski resort of Garmisch-Partenkirchen where we about to encounter our 4th and final #DJHExtraordinary hostel.

Sabrina photographing some classic idyllic Bavarian countryside porn

Nestled at the foot of Germany’s highest mountain Zugspitz, the train station of Garmisch must count as one of the most scenic train stations in Europe.

The 90 minutes train journey from Munich set the tone as we skimmed past the southern fringe of Lake Starnberg which set against the awe inspiring beauty of the Alps in the distance, really takes your breath away.more classic idyllic Bavarian countryside porn coupled with lots of more misty moody mountains kept our eyes glued to the windows as the train snakes through the valley in between. The presence of these mountains, silent and sage like have an instant calming effect on you. By the time I walk out of the station towards our hostel, I already feel like I’m in a deep zen like meditative state of bliss.

Why you should stay at the moun10 Jugendherberge Hostel Garmisch Partenkirchen

If you are a backpacker that likes combination of natural beauty, lots of hiking trails and an affordable yet stylish base with great facilities , the moun10 hostel is the perfect hostel for you and an ideal base to enjoy the charms of Garmisch Partenkirchen.

The hostel has a very clean minimalist design with a very cosy bar/lounge area where you can order yourself local beers or enjoy a cocktail. Or there’s a nice outdoor terrace for enjoying the views of the mountains. There is a large comfy sofa with lots of pillows, rugs to give you the feeling of almost chilling at home. There’s plenty of books and also great selection of board games to enjoy with the kids.. Natural light floods the interiors via the floor to ceiling windows to give a feeling of being at one with the surrounding nature. Besides the lounge is the breakfast area where as is standard with all Jugendherberge’s, they serve a very filling buffet breakfast.

The rooms are a mix of privates, 4 bed and 6 bed dorms. There are also some family friendly rooms with doubles and also bunk beds-perfect if you are bringing the kids or sharing with friends. All rooms are ensuite and showers are fantastic here. Bed linen is included but there is a €5 fee for towels.

Some rooms have wide windows nooks with big fat cushions to laze on -just grab a book like I did or simply gaze at wonder through the panoramic windows and enjoy the view of the majestic mountain peaks-  ‘Zugspitze’, ‘Alpspitze’ and Waxenstein. I loved this feature of the room and how you observe the change in weather moods plus the constant ebb and flow of trains pulling in and out of the station just below the hostel- perfect hostel for train geeks.

The other standout feature of the hostel is the gym and sauna on the 4th floor-perfect after a day on the slopes or hiking the mountains. The fitness area is small- for all the fitness geeks out there they have a Unica Evolution power trainer, Synchro Forma cross trainer, the Bike Forma Ergometer and the Skillrow rowing machine. It is not a bad setup and gyms are such a rarity in hostels so we really took advantage of this during our stay and also the next door sauna which was a fantastic place to relax. As with the lounge area and also with some of the rooms-you can drink in those unforgettable panoramic views of all the 3 major mountain peaks. Hence they call it the Panorama Sauna. The sauna area has lots of reclining chairs to relax in and enjoy the views. There is a fireplace to warm up plus two fountain showers and two classic showers to cool your body after a sauna sitting. The sauna is free to use as long as you bring your own towels.

I loved all 4 of the hostels we visited as part of our #DJHExtraordinary tour but in terms of design, style, comfort and facilities-this was my favourite hostel. I would put this up alongside the Superbude in Hamburg as my favourite design luxury hostel in Germany.

The great thing about the #DJHExtraordinary roadtrip was how we visited some parts of Germany that are not so necessarily popular with tourists outside of the country.

Garmisch is a dreamy little town and we loved wondering its picture postcard pretty streets. Everything is within short walking distance so you can get everywhere by foot.

First few days of the trip it was pretty wet so we were kinda of hostel bound for a bit. However, even in the gloomy weather, the town and the mountains looked magnificent. Here’s a few pictures of a more moody looking Garmisch.

Schloderer Bierstuberl

Top tip: Schloderer Bierstuberl

Schloderer Bierstuberl is the perfect bar to enjoy more of that rustic laid-back Bavarian charm and meet a few local characters. The beer was fantastic. The interiors of the bar lined with beer mugs and glorious vintage posters that recall the golden era of skiing in the area keep your eyes busy as you sup on the delicious local Tegernsee Hell beer-must visit bar if you are in the area.

We had a day of decent weather to pack in the sights: first on our agenda was to visit the awe inspiring Partnach Gorge, a deep gorge cut deep by the thunderous Partnach mountain stream. 

It is a good 2 hour hike through the gorge on a path carved into the mountains. In parts awe inspiring and in parts terrifying to observe the sheer force of nature, coming here is definitely an experience and not for the faint hearted. I felt a bit overwhelmed with the narrow path and it was crowded in parts so I turned back after awhile. Sabrina loved it on the other hand-you’ll see parts of the gorge featured in the our video of the hostel and Garmisch Partenkirchen. It was no surprise to learn later that the gorge featured as a film location for the 1979 film Nosferatu the Vampyre.

Unworldly beautiful Eibsee

The highlight of our trip was visiting the unworldly Eibsee.

I don’t think I’ve seen a lake quite as beautiful as Eibsee. It is quite a sight standing by the lake and then looking upto the magnificent Zugspitze, Germany’s tallest mountain. Hard to describe in words this place. Just when you think you’ve seen it all. I’m glad the weather gods smiled on us on our last day in Garmisch-Partenkirchen after 4 days of constant rain, although I’m sure even in the rain & mist, this lake must look beautiful. We were pleasantly surprised to find the lack of tourists – could have been the bad weather keeping people away. Either way, another epic highlight of our #DJHExtraordinary trip.

If you’re backpacking Germany or maybe backpacking Europe, you have to put this city and the Moun10 hostel on your itinerary

So. That’s the end of our #DJHExtraordinary series of posts and videos-we hoped you enjoyed our trip as much as we did. We’re already thinking of another themed hostel trip next year: what could we do next?

Essentials for visiting the moun10 Jugendherberge Hostel 

Booking directly via the Moun10 hostel website, room rates start from €19.90 per night in a dorm, €69 for a single room, €89 for a double room and €169 for a family room ( sleeps 4- double bed for the adults and 2 bed bunk for the kids ) Breakfast is included in the room rates.

With visitor tax you pay as part of your stay at the Moun10 hostel, you get a free GaPaCard which offers you some very cool benefits like free use of local buses , free entry to the local Alpspitz-Wellenbad wave pool plus discounts to some key local attractions like Partnachklamm. More details of all the benefits can be found here.

Visiting Partnachklamm, Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Opening Hours to Partnachklamm can vary according to season and also the weather. Please note that the last admission is 30 minutes before closing time. From May to October: 8:00an – 18:00pm , June-September: 6:00am – 22:00pm and from November-April: 9:00am – 18:00pm

Cost of admission is €5 while Kids (aged 6-16) pay just €2. Don’t forget with the GaPaCard you get a €1 discount.

From Garmisch Partenkirchen main train station ( Bus stop is to left when you exit the station and right across the road) take the #1 or #2 bus and get off at Skistadion. From the Skistadion is a very pleasant 2km 30 minute stroll to the entrance of the gorge-you’ll find signs everywhere.

Visiting Eibsee

There is a frequent service between Garmisch and Eibsee. Keep an eye out for the blue EIBSEE bus (commutes between Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Grainau and Eibsee) – the bus stop is 100 meters from the lake. Bus is free with your GaPaCard.

Disclaimer

I visited moun10 hostel Garmisch Partenkirchen as part of my #DJHExtraordinary trip with the Jugendherberge aka German Youth Hostel Association. The mission was simple- the challenge to seek some of Germany’s most unusual hostels in some of the country’s not so well known places. You can see more pictures and short videos from the trip on Instagram or Twitter- search for the #DJHExtraordinary. Plus if you are looking for more hostel inspiration from Germany, do checkout our last year’s guide to Castle Hostels across Germany.