“Everything you look at can become a fairy tale and you can get a story from everything you touch.”

Hans Christian Andersen

Just 75 minutes from Copenhagen, Odense, the 3rd largest city of Denmark feels more relaxed, very idyllic with its narrow cobbled streets and half timbered houses. It sometimes feels straight from a fairytale of its favourite son, HC Anderson who lived in Odense till the age of 14. From his childhood home to the brand new HC Andersen Museum designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, Anderson’s legacy is evident, everywhere you walk in Odense. Every Odense guide online will rightly wax lyrically about Anderson but I want to focus on giving you an idea of the other side of Odense and paint the bigger picture. In this guide to the best things to do in Odense, I want to tell you about all the cool stuff that locals do, where they eat and also I’ll talk about a pretty unique festival. Wherever you look, there are cool stories, personalities waiting to be discovered in Odense. Here is my guide to thebest things to do in Odense- Let’s start with a visit to the beautiful harbour of Odense where a unique experience awaits you.

1.Take a swim in the Odense Harbour Bath

Address: Gamle Havnekaj 3, 5000 Odense C

It’s hard to miss Odense Havnebad (harbour bath) with its eye-catching physical presence, slap bang in the middle of Odense Harbour. Resembling a ship, complete with a deck and a red and white striped cabin, this free to use swimming facility is a must-visit spot for swimming enthusiasts. The baths are open all year round – making the three degree water temperatures in winter – no feat for the faint-hearted. In contrast, swimming in summer is a pleasant experience. Enjoy the sauna on the premises but remember to bring your own towel. Contrary to expectations, the pool water is chlorinated and not fed from the frigid Baltic Sea. In addition to swimming, a variety of activities are available in the area including basketball, football, volleyball, roller derby and parkour. 

The harbour bath is open during limited hours in the morning and afternoon. Please check the website here for the most uptodate opening hours and times to visit.

2. Checkout the magical Kramboden

Address: Nedergade 24, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Kramboden translates to ‘the old store’. Situated at 24 Nedergade, in Odense, this listed building from the sixteenth century used to be a merchant’s house and now serves the purpose of displaying antique and museum replica pieces of furniture along with a wide range of antique items, Danish household pieces for everyday use and lots more. Nooks and corners are crammed tight with treasures and the whole atmosphere is redolent with the charm of yesteryear.  Baskets, brooms, chunky spools of twine, paper ephemera from the past, metal watering cans, clay pots sitting cheek to jowl with Christmas decorations – there’s a lot to spark the interest of the observer.  

3. Coffee at Nelle’s Coffee and Wine

Address: Overgade 21b, 5000 Odense C

Nelle’s Coffee and Wine is located in the fringes of historic Overgade, quite close to the Hans Christian Anderson House. After a visit to the house and museum or if you are looking to start the day with good coffee, grab one of the tables on the outdoor terrace and watch the world go by. The cakes here are fantastic if you have a sweet tooth plus between 5 and 6pm, they offer half price wine. 

4. Checkout Odense Art scene

Odense’s art scene, for its modest size, packs a punch and you will discover a variety of art pieces- sculptures, statues to street art pieces spread across the city. The characters of HC Anderson’s fairytales come to life on the streets of Odense in the form of beautiful sculptures. The tourism board have produced an excellent map and a guided route to his sculptures – click here. Beyond that here are a few of my favourites 

Oceania, sculpture

Renowned national artist Svend Wiig Hansen is the creator of the bronze statue Oceania, which the locals either love or hate, and which captures the attention of every visitor to Odense. It’s hard to pinpoint whether the form of Oceania is more male or female and the fascination of the piece lies in its somewhat grotesque features. The swollen feet, the misshapen limbs, the exposed chest and the serene gaze looking skyward towards the City Hall – makes you stand and stare. The bronze goddess was a gift from Odense City Art Foundation and Asea Brown Boveri A/S in 1992 and since then has dominated the street art scene of the city. 

Hans Christian Andersen Mural

The brick building with the high gabled roof is home to the mural of Odense’s most beloved citizen – writer Hans Christian Anderson. No 26 Bangs Boder is coincidentally quite close to the Hans Christian Anderson museum. The black and white mural is the work of artist Don John, who grew up in Brylle on the outskirts of Odense. 

The twelve metre high image is painted in black and white. This makes the writer’s features stand out distinctively. The eyes stare dreamily into the distance, rendering the artist in a contemplative mood. 

Roa , Odense Harbour

The three sides of Odense’s grain silo situated in Odense Harbour are decorated with massive works of art – courtesy of the artist ROA whose works are to be found in many other cities. Often known for his large scale depiction of animals, the set of murals in Odense Harbour are no exception. Large fish, feathered birds with piercing eyes and sharp beaks hang upside down in suspended animation and are perhaps a nod 

5.  Try the local smoked cheese, “rygeost” at the local outdoor food market at Sortebrødre Torv

Rygeost is a original Danish cheese and has its origins on the island of Fyn, where Odense is located. Some even trace the history of making rygeost cheese back to the Vikings but more recently, the cheese was found on farms in Fyn from the nineteenth century. 

The cheese is not matured and has a soft texture without a crust. The unique smokey flavour is produced by infusion with the smoke of burning freshly harvested oat or wheat straw under the cake of cheese. Slightly sour and flavourful, Rygeost is best enjoyed thickly smeared on a dense piece of rye bread and perhaps flavoured with the sharp crunch of thinly sliced red radish. Mixed with sour cream and herbs, the smokey cheese gains a new lease of life. 

The best place to sample the cheese in Odense is the local farmers market at Sortebrødre Torv. The market runs every Wednesday and Saturday all year, from 8 am to 1 pm.

6. Have lunch at Cafe Fleuri

Address: Nørregade 28, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Find a beautiful slice of Paris in the heart of Odense at Cafe Fleuri. Located on the outer periphery of the old quarter , Cafe Fleuri is the ideal place to catch your breath between sightseeing and enjoy a plate of something delicious. Enjoy breakfast, a hearty brunch or light lunch with fresh organic fare, plates of open sandwiches, salads, cakes and pastries, hot and cold drinks. 

The interior of the cafe has glittering chandeliers, delicate Parisian decor, vintage inspired artwork and sparkling glassware. During fine weather, the outdoor courtyard with potted plants and shady parasols, is the place to be to enjoy an intimate drink with a friend. 

7. Take a boat tour with Odense Aarfart 

Address: Filosofgangen 30B, 5000 Odense C, Denmark

Follow the trajectory of the Odense River inland, and bask in the bounty of peaceful nature in the heart of Odense city, with a scenic river boat tour. The one hour long roundtrip with Odense Aarfart starts at Munke Mose and  includes stops at Odense Zoo with the journey moving on to Erik Bøghs Sti for the ongoing trip. A 15 minute walk takes the visitor to Funen Village from the Erik Bøghs Sti. The boats currently run on solar power making the boat trip noise-free and a serene experience. The boats are wheelchair accessible and the return trip can be used at any time during the day. A special boat trip with live music takes place on Saturdays during the summer. 

Round tickets cost 109 DKK and got be bought online here or from the Aafarten café and ticket office in the ‘Kunstbygningen’. The cruises start here.  The boat tours runs from 1st of April to the 30th of September, and in the autumn holidays. 

8. Visit Art Museum Brandts

Address: Amfipladsen 7, 5000 Odense C

The Art Museum Brandts in the heart of Odense, is the cultural centre of the city and the place to visit for discovering the old masters of Danish painting, along with contemporary artists. It’s easy to get lost for several hours amidst the five floors of Funen’s largest art repository. 250 years of Danish art history are crammed into various corners giving the visitor a comprehensive overview of the cultural scenery of the country. In addition there are several special annual art exhibitions to get stuck into. The museum has a special sensory art exhibition which might be of interest to both children and adults – certainly something to look out for. The festive family workshop guarantees a  learning experience for the whole family.

On Thursdays, museum visitors can enjoy extended hours, with the museum remaining open till 9 pm. Happy Hour is from 4-6pm at the museum cafe, with a brilliant deal of two-for-one drinks. Overlooking Amphi Square, the museum cafe is an inspired space, with several sculptures and a mural to capture the eye. Aside from drinks like the usual tea and coffee, wines and specialty beers are on offer, along with tasty seasonal cakes and pastries, wholesome salads and sandwiches. 

The museum shop is a nice place to pick up a souvenir of the visit – a postcard, lithograph, art book, poster or other designer item.

Tickets cost 130 DKK while students enjoy a reduced price of 75 DKK. Kids till the age of 17 go free.

9. Evening drinks at Anarkist Beer & Food Lab

Address: Albanigade 20, 5000 Odense C

The very large arched window framed by bricks and skirted by a row of neatly propped up bicycles at Anarkist Beer and Food Lab, is a portal into the world of all things beer and beer related in Odense. Housed in the 160 year old Albani Brewery, the premises include a microbrewery and cafe serving food that has a distinct local flavour. The microbrewery, the Theodor Schiøtz Brewing Company is named after the founder of Albani breweries. Discover more at the small exhibition set up in the cafe that celebrates the history of beer making at the site. The Anarkist’s Bottleshop provides visitors with the opportunity to take home a variety of local beers. 

10. Dinner at Storms Pakhus

Address: Lerchesgade 4, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Along the lines of Reffen in Copenhagen , this large industrial size warehouse at Odense Harbour has been converted into a space where foodies can mingle and enjoy the broad spectrum of Odense’s burgeoning gastronomic scene. The 3000 square metre space at Storms Pakhus is home to about 24 food stalls and six bars and remains open till late at night on Fridays and Saturdays. We tried a noodle soup and a Thai red curry and both dishes did not disappoint. We also loved the vibe here, lots of students and people of all ages. They have a busy calendar of events, from quiz nights and markets to DJ’s and much more. From 11-3pm, Monday to Friday many of the stalls will offer one of their main dishes at a discounted price of 55 DKK-the best value for money lunch deal in town.

When to visit Odense: Heartland Festival

One of the highlights of coming to Odense was of course visiting Heartland Festival on Midtfyn. Here were my highlights of Heartland

1. Great music

Last year, a dream came true and we got to hear Robbie Williams live for the 1st time. Cardigans had a brilliant set and also we managed to catch our favourite Danish band, Prisma.

This years lineup looks fantastic and includes

Anne Sanne Lis

Nile Rodgers & CHIC

Phoenix

Tom Odell

Tim Christensen

Tina Dickow

Blaue Blume

Blue Foundation

Selma Judith

Afenginn

Elias Rønnenfelt

Brennen Leigh

Dan Smalley

Zandy Holup

Plant based burgers from Landcafe

2. A sustainable festival

The festival has a big focus on sustainability and environmentally-friendly practices. The festival is big on recycling and is powered from renewable energy sources. The good rail connections made it also easy for people to come to the festival. Visitors can expect a range of talks focussed on sustainability-related topics and issues. There was a big focus on local food and drinks producers like local brewery Anarkist to fantastic cocktails from Gedulgt and local sparkling wine from Stokkebye. My favourite place to eat was Landcafe who offered organic and vegan plus plant based burgers. The food at the festival aims to be at least 80% plant-based and 20% animal-based. Wherever possible, the festival purchases locally from the island of Funen and within Denmark. They even had a special lounge where visitors can learn more about making sustainable investments or for their own business. 

3. Great vibe

The festival setting on the grounds of Egeskov Castle , lends a fairytale vibe to the festival- the entire castle park feels like a huge open-air gallery with a variety of art and design objects, video and light installations . There is a lot of space to relax , plenty of toilets and water stations for visitors.

There’s lots of fun stuff- games area & the Casa Bacardi dance stage where you can learn salsa- fab.

Also , this is a family friendly festival with a separate play area ( make up station/ costumes / bouncy castle with foam ) special food options for kids. Overall, festival caters to a wide, grown up audience- we felt at home here. Another big plus is the 4000 volunteers from the local community who make the festival possible.

What could be better

This is a festival for Danes. Majority of the talks were Danish which was a shame. Hope in the future, they broaden out more and make it more accessible.

Where to stay in Odense

This small but well located private apartment, Hus-lejlighed i ejendommens Baghus, is about 1.5 km away from some of Odense’s major attractions, like Odense City Hall, Funen Art Gallery and the Concert Hall. Hans Christian Anderson House and St Knud’s Cathedral are also relatively nearby.

This one bedroom apartment with terrace, features a private entrance and in addition to the bedroom has a living room with flat screen TV. The kitchen is fully equipped with dishwasher, tumble dryer, stove top and refrigerator, among other things. 

Enjoy free Wi-Fi, available throughout the property. Prices to stay per night come in at around 100 euros a night. 

Disclaimer

Our trip to Odense was made possible with the kind support of Destination Fyn and Heartland Festival. However all views, good or bad, expressed here, are entitely my own. Thanks for reading and your continued support to the blog.

Introduction

On my run earlier today in the old town area of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria , Vegueta, I discovered a walking path by the sea. It felt like a glorious release to be running again by the sea. For a while, my eyes lost themselves in the frothy sea. I looked up at the colourful rusty collage of oil rigs and shipping tankers in the distant horizon, lonely and contemplative. Soon the expansive port area of Las Palmas came into sight and then the surreal sight of palm trees framing the main motorway leading into the concrete skyscrapers that dominate Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. For a moment, I felt I could be in Asia, Africa anywhere, but Europe. It is December and the temperature at 9.30am in the morning is 19 degrees celsius. The temperature rarely dips below 18C and barring the odd deluge of rain showers that swamp the island, it feels very pleasant. I look at the map and realise we are just 67 miles (108 km) off the northwest coast of the African mainland. In many ways Las Palmas de Gran Canaria Gran Canaria is a curious mix of influences which makes the island a very interesting place to visit, especially in the current situation with Covid-19.  I’ve put together a guide to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria – best places to visit, eat and drink. I hope you find it useful. If you have any questions, shoot me a comment below or email me kash AT budgettraveller.org

Good to know during COVID-19

1.Rate of infection is low in Gran Canaria and is currently one of the safest places to visit in Europe. The situation in neighbouring Tenerife is different where infections are higher. The situation can change quickly, from day to day, so my advice would be to check the official tourism portal for all the latest news and regulations.

2. Condor, easyJet offers direct flights to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria: From London journey time is 4 1/2 hours, from Berlin – 5 1/2 hours.

3. Have a PCR test within 72 hours of departure: Anyone arriving in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria must show a negative PCR test result that is less than 72 hours old. More info here.

4. If you visit Gran Canaria, I definitely recommend hiring a car, especially in the current situation. That said, we used public transport to travel throughout the island and it felt safe with everyone wearing masks inside the buses and also in public spaces.

5. Bring an extra layer, waterproofs and hiking boots- Being in the Atlantic, the weather can be temperamental, especially in Winter so I do recommend bringing a waterproof jacket and also some hiking boots. The weather in general is really nice and in December hovers around the 18-21C mark. It is much warmer in the southern part of the island which has all the purpose built resorts while in the north, the weather is slightly more interchangeable. I much prefer the north though – more on that later.

History

Juan Rejon founded the city in 1478 and named it ‘Real de Las Palmas’ after the invasion of the Castilian army. A few years later, in 1492, Christopher Columbus spent some time on the island, on the way to his epic voyage to discover the Americas.

The island was extremely desirable to the British, and in 1595 under the commandeering of Francis Drake, Las Palmas was attempted to be plundered in The Battle of Las Palmas. After the repelling of this attack, the poor island was again besieged in 1599 by the Dutch. Throughout it all, Las Palmas was able to maintain her identity and integrity.

Getting there and away

It is possible to get to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria via air and sea routes. Gran Canaria International Airport has flights from Madrid, Barcelona, Bilbao, the UK and other places in Europe and Africa. Bus Number 60 takes you from the airport to the city centre. The Port of Las Palmas is a popular port of call for many cruise ships. There are ferries plying every day from the neighbouring islands and less frequent ferries from mainland Spain.

Things to do in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria

Casa Colon

Visit Casa Colon-where Columbus stayed during his visit

This grand colonial style mansion in the Old Town of Las Palmas (Calle Colon 1) is heaving with artefacts related to Columbus’ voyages, the pre-history of the Canaries before the arrival of the Europeans. Originally, the Governor’s House, this is where Columbus would come and stay when he visited the Canaries, on the way to his long voyages to the Americas. The ornate building and the central interior courtyard are a fine example of the colonial architecture with Arab and Roman influences. Columbus, that famous sailor and explorer from Genoa, reportedly had to make a stop at Gran Canaria to repair an errant rudder of one of his ships. Wherever, he stopped, Columbus left his mark. In this case – in the three permanent exhibition rooms dedicated to his name.

Essentials: Casa Colon is open from 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM, Monday to Saturday and on Sundays and holidays, it remains open from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Entrance fee for adults is €4, €2 for students between 18-23 and people over 65 and entrance is free for kids under the age of 18/

Casa Colon is free to visit on Sunday on these following dates-April 18, May 18, May 30, June 24, September 27, October 12. Check the Casa Colon website for latest prices and opening hours. http://www.casadecolon.com/horario-y-precios

Climb the tower of Cathedral de Santa Ana

Cathedral de Santa Ana or more simply known as Las Palmas Cathedral is an important symbol of Canarian religious architecture and is a Roman Catholic Church located in the vicinity of the Plaza Mayor of Santa Ana. The imposing interior of the Cathedral reveals fully well its Gothic architecture – with nave and double aisles, a sanctuary, elegant stained glass windows and polished wooden pews. The most prominent feature are the piers fashioned in the form of palm trees. Hop to the top of the Cathedral de Santa Ana Bell Tower by lift – you get a fantastic panorama of the historic buildings of Vegueta and the harbour beyond.

Essentials: The cathedral is open to visitors from 10am to 4:30pm on weekdays, 10am to 1:30pm on Saturdays. Entry fee is €3 per person. If you wish to use the lift, it costs an additional €1.50

Top tip: 8 Canes Cocktail Bar

If you are visiting the Cathedral, definitely recommend grabbing a drink at the stylish 8 Canes Cocktail Bar on the square (Plaza Sta. Ana, 2) As you’ve guessed from the name, cocktails are fantastic here plus they do serve local Dorada beer on draft and have a good selection of local wines at good prices.

Relax, drink and play @ Las Canteras Beach

I never knew about the crescent shaped Las Canteras beach before my trip and now it goes down for me as one of the best I’ve seen in the world. The stunning backdrop of the cliffs and the jam-packed promenade, heaving with an odd mishmash of architectural styles, shops, restaurants and tourists alike create a heady concoction – always something new to see and enjoy when walking along the 2 mile long beach. The beach is perfect for a wee dip, adults and kids alike – the offshore natural lava reef (known as ‘La Barra’) acts as a natural wave breaker, ensuring only the calmest of waves reach the shore. These conditions also make it conducive for snorkelling – creating a local environment of underwater sea creatures that are undisturbed by the tumultuous nature of the sea. If the suns out, bring your own drinks and snacks (there is a Spar handily located in the middle of the promenade) and hire a deck chair from one of the friendly local attendants. Costing just €5 to hire for the day, it is the perfect day out in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria!

Explore Vegueta

My favourite part of my stay in Las Palmas has been staying in Vegueta, the historic and oldest district of the city. Yes, it would have been amazing to rent an apartment near Las Canteras but living in the heart of the old town, waking up everyday amidst all the beautiful historical buildings is a dream. One of the key things to look out for is the rich mix of architecture here. There is a strong influence of modernist architecture which was influenced by the native artist Nestor Martin-Fernandez (who has a beautiful museum dedicated to his life story which I recommend visiting). You’ll see few examples in Vegueta and neighbouring Triana. Here’s a few pictures that will give you an idea of what to expect.

Top tip: While in Vegueta, make a point of visiting the local food market –Mercado Vegueta. It has a refreshingly local and no frills vibe with a fantastic range of local produce on offer.

Top tip: Calle de Los Balcones

One of my favourites points of interest in the area is Calle de Los Balcones , which during the first centuries of the city’s existence hosted some of the wealthiest families on the island. The historic buildings on this street are a master class in the evolution of architecture in the Canary Islands from the 16th to the 19th century. Gothic, Renaissance, Neoclassical and Mudejar elements abound. On this street you will also find the fantastic CAAM – Atlantic Center of Modern Art.

6. The CAAM aka Atlantic Center of Modern Art

The CAAM is a museum of contemporary art located in Vegueta, Las Palmas. The CAAM itself is a pleasant, pale yellow coloured traditional building with a neo classical facade.

Since, the Canary Islands are a melting pot of different cultures, this is reflected too in the choice of artworks used to represent the region. Works of art from Europe, Africa and the Americas, showcase the prodigious talent of the Canaries. This idea of ‘tricontinentality’ is a resonant theme throughout the museum.

Canarian artforms and artists are well represented here : you will get to know about the ‘Informalist Movement’ of Manolo Millares, Pablo Serrano and Martin Chirino. Another movement to look out for is the Grupo El Paso and art by names like Cristina Iglesias, Luis Gordillo and Jose Maria Sicilia among others.

Essentials: Los Balcones 11, Free entry! Open Tuesday-Saturday from 10 am. to 9 pm & Sunday from 10 am. to 2 pm. Closed Mondays, holidays, 24 and 31 December.

Papas Arrugadas with red Mojo Sauce- classic Canarian tapas

Bodegon Pachichi- a must when visiting Las Palmas

Best seafood on the island? Go to Agaete

Where (& where not) to eat & drink in Las Palmas & beyond

Las Palmas and neighbourhoods of Triana and Vegueta in particular offer a fantastic choice of places to eat and drink. My favourites include, Bodegon Pachichi (Calle los Martínez de Escobar, 51), one of the oldest bars in the city. Drinks prices are fantastic here – local cana beer is €1.50 and a glass of wine starts around the €1.70 mark. They have a small limited range of simple, cheap plates of tapas on offer to soak up the alcohol – from olives and local Canarian cheese to Papas Arrugadas (baked wrinkly Canarian potatoes)  smothered in the local mojo sauce. Other Las Palmas favourites include Amigo Camilo – best seafood in town and incredible prices. Always reserve ahead, especially on the weekends (Calle Caleta 1). Block Cafe and Mumbai Sunset Bar is best for sundowners and for affordable great wine, great service, I would go to Volga. If you have a weakness for Portuguese pastries like the classic Pasteis de Nata, hop to Dulces de Portugal. They have delicious chocolate filled donuts too plus great Delta Portuguese coffee.

In Vegueta, I recommend Cerveceria Y Picoteo Te Lo Dije Perez for tapas and beers, Dos Balcones for affordable breakfast or lunch – the owner is a character and has great banter.

Any bars or places I would not recommend? I have to say, I was disappointed with La Buena Vida which was recommended by a few friends – lovely service but beer was watery. Maybe the kegs needed to be changed. One I would definitely avoid is the Benito Roof Cocktail Bar – attracts a certain kind of clientele and the waiters were not the friendliest. Drinks prices were not bad but I definitely did not like the vibe of this place.

In terms of clubbing – have no clue and would not recommend anyone with half a brain to go clubbing at this point of time, until Covid-19 is eradicated.

Good to know

All the bars and places mentioned with the exception of Pachichi have outdoor seating options – this would be our preferred method to avoid any close contact. With the temperatures rarely dipping below 17-18C at night, it was perfect. Wherever indoor seating is available, like Pachichi for example, the number of seats is limited so there’s plenty of social distancing. Locals and restaurant owners seem to take lots of precautions, surfaces were wiped down regularly and waiters wore masks at all times-  it felt very safe here.

Day trips from Las Palmas

Teeming with picture perfect historic towns plus a rich coastline with a few excellent beaches and scenic fishing villages, there’s plenty of choice for visitors to choose from when it comes to picking the perfect day trips from the capital city, Las Palmas.

Since we sadly cannot drive, the equation was pretty simple for us. We chose places easily and readily accessible by the island’s excellent public transport network. We took a guided tour of the northern half of the island on one of the days – I would definitely recommend this and our guide, especially if you are short on time or cannot drive like us.

1.Caves of Gran Canaria

One of the unmissable sights of the island, is the spectacular network of man made caves, many that hark back to the earliest inhabitants of the Canary Islands – the indigenous Canarians, “Gaunches’. Not much is known about what happening to them after the Spanish invaded – the Guanches either died during the invasion or were assimilated into Spanish society.

The caves all had their own specific function and purpose – the Cenobio de Valerón (Santa María de Guía) for example served as a communal granary. Perched high in the cliffs, sheltered from the elements, it shows the ingenuity of the natives. Other caves like the Cuatro Puertas in Telde for example were exclusively carved from the volcanic rock to provide shelter and protection to the Gaunches from the elements. A distinctive feature of this cave are the 4 doors that mark the entrance to the cave. The views from here are spectacular.

Cenobio de Valerón – we visited with the help of our guided tour. Cuatro Puertas is possible via public bus from Las Palmas with a change in Rotonda Daora.

2. Agaete

I loved Agaete. With its white washed houses and dreamy location off the north western corner of the island, coming here reminded me if I had arrived in a fishing village in the Cyclades or maybe somewhere like Cadaques in Costa Brava. My only regret is not having more time here. It is sleepy during the week but on weekends, the town is rammed with islanders who all come here for some R&R plus enjoy the dreamy views of the bay and Tenerife in the distance.

If you love good seafood, definitely spend some time in the fisherman’s district of Puerto de Las Nieves where you’ll find a nice black sand beach plus you can see the ferry for Tenerife leave the port. Try dishes here like the typical, Sancocho Canario, a dish which consists of a fresh grilled fish, salted and spiced and served either with the typical flour of Canary islands, gofio or mojo picón. From the harbour, the centre of Agaete is just a 15 minute walk. Highlights of your walk should include the beautiful Church of La Concepción and its dreamy square.

3. Bodega Los Berrazales- the only coffee plantation in Europe!

The Bodega Los Berrazales , located in the Agaete Valley, has to be one of the best kept secrets on the island of Gran Canaria. A 200 year old farm with their own wine, avocado, papayas and oranges, their unique call to fame is that since the beginning of the 19th century, they have also dedicate the land to growing coffee beans (mainly Arabica Typica, although they have recently cultivated the Geisha variety) and as far as I am aware, are the only coffee plantation in Europe. The farm is open for tourist tours where, in 90 minutes, you can learn about what is behind every cup of coffee. Visitors can discover how coffee is grown, dried, and hulled, before it is transformed into brown beans.

I recommend taking either the 90 minute guided tour of the plantation where visitors are explained the history plus also get a chance for coffee tasting.

4. Maspalomas

At the time of writing this, I am yet to visit Maspalomas but I have been told, with its warm weather, epic sand dunes and dreamy lighthouse, it is definitely worth visiting. 

Top tip: Checkout the Nomad Gastro Market at Holidayworld Maspalomas. It follows the food hall concept where you can try different cuisines from all over the world.

HiTide Hostel

Where to stay in Las Palmas on a budget

Friendly staff, bright and open space. Comfortable rooms, lots of family activities ranging from surf to yoga lessons (can be booked on arrival), pizza nights with beers on their open terrace overlooking the sea…the idea of falling asleep and waking up to the sound of waves – HiTide Surf Hostel is a fantastic option for backpackers, surfers and digital nomads looking for an affordable but fun space to stay in Las Palmas.

Other hostels I would recommend in Las Palmas include the laid-back, Ventana Azul Surf Hostel. Other options outside of Las Palmas – if you’re looking for something more relaxed and down to earth, interested in yoga and meditation, definitely checkout the Casa Calma Yoga Guesthouse in the dreamy town of Agaete (see above for more about why I loved this place).

If you are looking for apartments or bungalows, definitely worth checking out Villas in Gran Canaria -prices start from €85 a night for a bungalow sleeping 4 people.

Disclaimer

This post was produced with the kind support of Gran Canaria Tourism Board. All my opinions and views, good and bad, expressed here are entirely my own.

Huge thanks to Katerina and the Gran Canaria Tourism Board for their support during our stay in Gran Canaria. Checkout their website for more ideas and inspiration for visiting the island. Eternal gratitude and love to Maria for showing us her beautiful island and sharing that magical day with us. Plus, thanks to Traverse Events team for making this collaboration with Gran Canaria Tourism Board possible. You guys are the best.

I visited the town back in 2007 when the town was already part of Euro backpacking folklore thanks to it laid-back charm and friendly locals. Fast forward to 2020, I’m pleased to say that the town still has managed to preserve most of that fairytale charm minus the crowds because of Covid. It is a town that definitely warrants an overnight stay, best enjoyed when the hordes of day trippers disappear. I’ve compiled a list of the key sights and attractions to visit plus my favourite places to eat and drink in Cesky Krumlov – hope you find it useful for planning your trip there.

Best things to do in Český Krumlov

1. Český Krumlov State Castle and Chateau

Looming large on a rocky outcrop lying on the fringes of the river Vltava lies the star attraction of the town of Český Krumlov, its UNESCO World Heritage listed State Castle and Chateau. The first thing that strikes you when you land in the city is how huge the Castle is, especially in proportion to the city. Encompassing an area of 7 hectares, second only in size to Prague Castle, the castle covers a vast complex of forty structures and palatial buildings, dotted around 5 courtyards and a castle park. Wherever you walk in the city, the 13th century tower, the proud symbol of the town’s rich history, casts its watchful gaze on you.

Gradually developed from the 14th till 19th century, the Castle is a time capsule of the different architectural styles in vogue, ranging from the glorious Baroque apartment to its renaissance rooms. One of the key highlights of visiting the Castle the Baroque Chateau Theatre, which is one of two well-preserved theatres in Europe, the other being the theatre in Drottningholm Palace, which we had the good fortune of visiting late last year. Just as with Drottningholm, the theatre has managed to preserve the original frescos, costumes (all 600 of them), props, special effects machines and set pieces, which can be arranged to create 13 different scenes. Built in 1680 as a private cinema (and refurbished in 1765), it was in this gorgeous room that the castle’s last private owner, Adolph Schwarzenburg, received the Czechoslovakian president, Edvard Benes, to give financial aid for the defence of the country against Nazi Germany.

The Castle Tower is probably the most famous symbol of Český Krumlov. Built at a height of 86 m above the Vltava River, you have 162 steps to climb to the top of the Renaissance style Tower, which was designed by designed by Italian architect Baldassaro Maggi of Arogno (about 1550–1619) .

You will find four bells hung in the tower – here’s an astonishing fact… the heaviest bell has an estimated weight of 1,800 kg! and dates from 1406.

Essentials

If you are on a tight budget, note that the castle’s gardens and courtyards are free to visit.

Tours of castle and theatre are possibly only via a guided tour – recommend you book this in advance. Guided tour of castle costs 160Kč, while a guided tour of the theatre is 180Kč. The Tower you can visit by yourself and costs 35Kč. The ticket office is located in the 2nd courtyard.

Also worth noting, that you can enter for free to the Castle Museum and Tower with the Český Krumlov card. It costs 400 CZK and you get free entry to most of the main attractions in the city: – Castle Museum and Castle Tower, Český Krumlov Regional Museum, Museum Fotoatelier Seidel, Egon Schiele Art Centrum and the Monasteries Český Krumlov.

2. Wooden Raft River Cruise

Rafting or canoeing down the Vltava River in Český Krumlov is a fantastic way to spend a warm summer day. There are several companies in Český Krumlov that will rent you a kayak, canoe or raft. Prices depend on how far upriver you want to start your trip.

While most people opt for private canoes which look like great fun, I would definitely recommend the option of going on a private guided tour on the bigger wooden rafts. Given my fear of water and not being able to swim, this was for me the better option.

The history of wooden rafting in Český Krumlov and Vltava River goes far back as the first third of the 12th century during the reign of Roman emperor Charles IV but it is around the 16th century when there was a growing requirement for transporting timber, trading with salt and other articles that wooden rafting became a popular means of transport along the river. It is only after the emergence of the railways in the 2nd half of the 19th century, that saw a decline in rafting.

The history of rafting was one of many stories and anecdotes revealed by our knowledgeable and entertaining guide, Michal Pavlík. You definitely get an interesting perspective of the city from the wooden raft as it gently meanders down the river. From the Jewish synagogue to the Church of St. Víta past the Egon Schiele Art Centrum and also the Český Krumlov Historic Brewery, Michal provides us with a lot of interesting nuggets of history about the city. The 50 minute tour also involves a drink – a stopover at a pub along the river, where after ringing a bell, we were brought two frothy, ice cold beers. It tasted like heaven. Somehow beer tastes even better when on water.

Book your tour in advance via GetYourGuide -tickets cost €17.67 per person.

3. Monastery

The Monastery Complex of Cesky Krumlov is located in the heart of the city’s historic center – in itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Compound actually consists of three monasteries. The first two were built by widowed Katherine of Rosenberg in 1350. A third monastery was added at the end of the fourteenth century. The beautiful monastery is a mixture of several architectural styles. Gothic foundations and beams merge effortlessly with Baroque reconstruction that had been undertaken in the 17th to 18th century. The monastery was home to two female orders – St Clare and that of the beguine nuns and a male order – the order of Minors for men. After being abandoned and falling into a severe state of disrepair, the monastery was recently renovated and re established as a space for learning about the past of the monastery – the culture, art and history of Cesky Krumlov and the experience of living in a monastery in olden times. Various expositions shed light on the daily life of nuns and monks.

One of the fun and educational aspects of the monastery is the vast range of craft shops on the premises, from blacksmith to pottery making to book binding. Visitors can take part in workshops for free. If you and the kids want to learn to make any of the products in the workshops to take back home with you  (I learnt how to make the official monastery coin at the resident blacksmith), purchase the monastery tokens which can be bought at the visitor centre (1 Monastery Token – 10 CZK).

The entrance fee for the monastery and all the expositions is 250 CZK and 450 CZK for families.

Entrance is free with the Český Krumlov card.

4. The historic Český Krumlov brewery tour

As the home of the first Pilsner, the original Budweiser plus also the first in the world for per – capita beer consumption, every town more or less has some proud history of brewing to boast about and Ceský Krumlov is no exception. Granted a charter to brew beer in 1560, the Eggenberg family started brewing beer in the town between years of 1625 and 1630. After passing hands through multiple ruling dynasties and even the local mafia, the historic brewery has in the last years undergone a renaissance with much needed renovation of the former premises. There are plans to build a beer hotel and even have their own beer spa. To find out more about the chequered history of the brewery and even taste some of the light, dark beer, I really recommend trying the Brewery Tour. Led by the enthusiastic Lukas and his partner, you will learn the secrets of the beer production that dates back to the early years of the town. You can also have some generous tasting of the different Ceský Krumlov beers.

Note: Take a look behind the scenes of the Historic Brewery of Český Krumlov. You will learn the secrets of the beer production that dates back to the early years of the town. You can also taste the Krumlov beer.

Tours run for 1 to 4 persons cost 900 CZK for the tour and include beer tasting (3x 0,1 l beer). If you are visiting in a group of 5-20 persons, with beer tasting (3x 0,1 l beer) the tour costs 200 CZK / person (from 18 years old).

Worth noting that children up to 12 years get free entry as long as they are accompanied by an adult. Tours in Czech, German, English, Hungarian, Russian or Chinese can be organized upon individual demand.

Reservation for a tour should be made at least 2 days (48 hours) in advance. 

There is a pivnice on the premises in what was the ice store of old, where today you can enjoy Czech food (open 11:00 – 22:00) and of course the Ceský Krumlov beer

5. Museum Fotoatelier Seidel

Telling travel stories through photography has been a big part of my life so for me visiting this museum was most definitely the highlight of the trip. The atelier is a bit of a time capsule of life along the Czech-Austrian-German border around the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, a nostalgic love letter to a different, more innocent era of travel when people would send postcards as souvenirs.

Josep Seidel’s love affair with the city started in 1888 when he came to Český Krumlov and worked as a shop head of the photographic firm of Gottfried Zimmer.  The business at the time had three key areas of focus – postcards, portraiture and amateur photography. You get an excellent insight into the life and history of the business with a short 5 minute film at the start of the tour. Later, you get a chance to walk through the home of Josef which used to be a studio and has now been converted into the museum. The house with the photo studio itself is an architectural gem. The reception, business room, the bedroom and the small living room overlooking the beautiful garden, laboratory and daylight copying room, hand printer for printing on the back of the photographs – lot of wonderful, beautiful preserved original details, really bring the place to life. Our guide, Klara provided us with a fascinating insight into life in a small Bohemian town, photography as a business and how life changed for Josef’s children with first the occupation by Nazi Germany and then life under communism.

The museum ends with a fun photoshoot in Josef’s studio. So much fun!

I loved this place. Now, thanks to iPhone, everyone claims to be a photographer. However, the joy of taking a photo and then developing in a darkroom is something else – somehow in the modern world, we’ve forgotten the joy of taking photographs. It has become less of an art form. The Seidel museum reminded me of the joy of real photography and its ability to change perceptions for generations to come.

Address: Linecká 272, Plešivec, 381 01 Český Krumlov, Czechia

Essentials

Tickets for adults costs 120 CZK. For a child (6-15 years) tickets cost 50 CZK.

Family ticket (2 adults and 1-4 children) costs 240 CZK.

Entrance is free with the Český Krumlov card.

Guided tours are offered in Czech, German and English. They last 50 minutes.

During the summer months of July and August, some guided tours are complemented by demonstrations of how photographs are taken in the darkroom. More information can be found at www.seidel.cz.

6. Egon Schiele Art Centrum

The Egon Schiele Art Centrum (ESAC) was privately developed by several individuals in 1992. The fall of the Iron Curtain along with the historic appeal of Cesky Krumlov as the birthplace of this centre of arts, resulted in the realisation of this dream. The people behind the ESAC were Serge Sabarsky, Gerwald Sonnberger and Hana Jirmusova.

A brewery from the Renaissance period was partly restored to give rise to the Centre.

Undoubtedly, the centrepiece of the Centre is dedicated to the life and works of Egon Schiele. There is a permanent exhibition in his name along with a bunch of changing exhibitions. Studios can be leased by artists here. In addition there is a tempting museum shop and cafe.

Cost: 200 CZK for adults, Kids 6-15 years pay 50 CZK. Entrance is free with the Český Krumlov card.

Where to eat and drink in Český Krumlov

7. Depo Pub

With a focus on Czech and especially South Bohemian cuisine situated in the picturesque surroundings of a renovated château park along the banks of Polečnice river, Depo Pub is definitely one of the more authentic local offerings in town. I really enjoyed the food here, starting with the South Bohemian Potato soup (60 CZK) and then the goulash of beef neck with horseradish, chili pepper, onion and bread dumplings (135 CZK) – both dishes were outstanding. Completed by nice service and an excellent range of local beers on draft including the excellent local Český Krumlov beer, this is definitely a place I look forward to returning when I’m back in Český Krumlov.

Věžní 99, Latrán, 381 01 Český Krumlov.

8. Restaurant 99

Adjacent to one of the better hostels in town, this restaurant serves a mix of international fare, ranging from filling salads and burritos and burgers. We tried their beef burger with topping of cheddar cheese, bacon. Burgers were huge, pretty decent and accompanying fries were fab (price for burgers start around 229 CZK). They serve a range of excellent beers on tap here including Budvar from nearby České Budějovice.

9. My Saigon

If you’re looking for something a bit different from your usual Czech fare, definitely worth popping in here. They serve a decent Pho here (139 CZK) and also Pad Thai. Good price vs quality ratio. Nice service too.

Panská 17, 381 01 Český Krumlov.

10. Masna 130 Espresso Bar

Probably the best coffee in Český Krumlov plus I loved their minimalistic very relaxed interiors. Lovely staff. Nice range of cakes, quiches and superb sandwiches – very filling. Had two of them to take away for our return train journey to Prague and they were fantastic (95 CZK).

Address: Masná 130, Vnitřní Město, 381 01 Český Krumlov.

11. Apotheka Café Bar

After a long day of walking the cobbled streets of town, if you need a prescription for a strong tonic to pick you up, you definitely should consider popping in to this former pharmacy turned craft cocktail bar. This is the kind of cocktail bar where you go for one and easily end up spending the night drinking everything off the menu. It is a lovely place with a long handmade wooden bar propping up the regulars and snazzily dressed enthusiatic bartenders concocting some very delicious drinks. There’s also a small terrace outside if the weather is nice. Cocktails start at around the 150 CZK mark.

Address: Latran 46, Český Krumlov; +420 728 336 064

Where to stay in Český Krumlov

If you love hotels with a sense of time and place, tons of character, then you will love the Hotel Oldinn. The hotel has been through several reincarnations, from once brewing beer to producing gingerbread to even once functioning as a district court, this place has lots of stories to tell . ( You can read more about the history on the hotel website ) Facing the historic Svornosti Square in clear view of the statue of the Holy Virgin with her eight saints, patrons , protectors of the town, the location of this hotel is perfect. The rooms, recently refurbished are spacious with nice sized queen bed, lots of storage space and ensuite bathrooms have a nice powered shower, complimentary toiletries. Bag a room facing the square-I spent a lot of time people watching from our room. The buffet breakfast, served in the adjoining cafe is fabulous with lots of hot and cold food options included, fresh fruit, cereals and fruit juices. There’s even a few cool options for those who love asian food like noodles and fried rice which was fab. Staff are friendly and very helpful here. The other added bonus is that you can use the spa and swimming pool facilities for free at the sister hotel, Hotel Ruze, up the road- just have to make the booking in advance via the reception staff.

Room rates vary according to season, ranging from €65 to €80 via Booking.com

Disclaimer

Our trip to Český Krumlov was possible thanks to a kind invitation from Czech Tourism’s Germany office. However, all the views represented here are entirely my own. Huge thank you to Marketa and Barbora from Czech Tourism and also South Bohemia Tourism for making this trip possible. Thanks to Czech Railways for taking care of our travel arrangements. Also thanks to the Hotel Oldinn team for being such amazing hosts.

Best Things to do in Prague

1.Hop over to Vysehrad

We start the day with a trip to the fortress of Vysehrad, still a secret spot in Prague where locals love to go for long walks to enjoy the beautiful views of the city and roam its beautifully manicured gardens. One of Czech Republic’s finest forts, the Romanesque rotunda and area surrounding Vysehrad fort constitute one of Prague’s prettiest little corners. Perched up on an elevated rockface, Vysehrad offers generous views overlooking the Vltava River.

Some history and context – Vysehrad stepped into the spotlight in the eleventh century, from a humble trading post, when the first King of Bohemia built a castle here and made it his seat of power. In the fourteenth century the King of Bohemia and the Holy Roman Emperor brought the fort back to its former glory with a pilgrimage to Vysehrad as part of the elaborate coronation process of Czech royalty.

The complex consists of The Cemetery, the beautiful Baroque Leopold’s Gate, St Martin’s Rotunda – the oldest in Prague and the surrounding orchards and park. The Vysehrad National Cultural Monument is a nice place to explore the history of Prague.

My personal highlight of visiting the fort is the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul, with the atmospheric adjoining Vyšehrad Cemetery, which contains the remains of some of the most celebrated people in Czech history, including some of my favourite classical music composers Antonín Dvořák of New World Symphony fame, Bedřich Smetana and painter Alphonse Mucha.

From Vysehrad down to Naplavka…

2. Head to Naplavka

After the fortress, I recommend you wind your way down to Naplavka, a stretch of pavement next to the banks of the Vltava. When the suns out, this is a popular meeting point for locals. You’ll find cyclists, walkers, people chilling with a beer, the odd food vendor, lots of impromptu live music concerts drowning out the vicious cackling of seagulls, swans and ducks that come to gorge on any scrap or morsel of food left behind by the humans. Even though it is in the heart of Prague, it’s very much an authentic slice of local life. On Saturday there is a Farmers’ market, when it gets a bit too busy for my liking – so my advice would be to come here on the weekdays when it is much quieter nowadays.

Next stop – for lunch we head to Manifesto Market in Smichov.

Delicious Tacos Pastor from Alebrijes Cocina Mexicana, Manifesto Market Smichov

3. Manifesto Market Smichov

A cultural and gastro market in the heart of Prague, Manifesto Market is Prague’s best known street food market. Come anyday of the week in Prague, the market has the bubbly, fun filled atmosphere where you can expect a wide variety of great food from upcoming budding chefs – everything from tasty tacos to hummus to craft burgers to fresh seafood. Plus, there’s cocktails and fresh frothy Pilsner Urquell from the tank. Prices are above average so prepare to splurge here a little. Located in a former parking lot wedged between the 20th-century National House of Smichov and a former market hall, the design and layout of the market is eye-catching with the food stations housed in a cluster of corrugated metal-covered units surrounding a shallow pool.

4. Letna

Afterwards, we head from Smichov to Letna for a beer in probably Prague’s best beer garden. Letna district of Prague is invariably dominated by its namesake park. Letna Park is a green leafy elevated playground, with views over the river, with its beautifully proportioned spanning bridges. The park offers some of the best views of Prague with the beer garden of the same name providing foaming Pilsners as a bonus.

The name ‘Letna’ originated from ‘Leten’ or summer camp or a place to sunbathe. The place gained importance in the Middle Ages due to their strategic location and use as military stomping grounds. Green vineyards originally overlooked the river at this location. At different times different people and monuments have shared the spotlight at Letna, including a statue of Stalin that has now been destroyed and the Metronome. The park has also been a site for demonstrations against the Communist government, the venue for a Micheal Jackson concert and a place for demonstrations and recreational sports.

5. Letna Beer Garden

Serving frothy ice-cold Pilsner Urquell and also the equally decent Gambrinus at dirt cheap prices, Letna Beer Garden is the perfect place to chill with friends under the shade of the towering chestnut trees on a warm day. Plus the views of the city from here are wonderful.

6. Dinner- Kuchyň

This guide has focussed mainly on the lesser known areas of Prague and steered clear of the more popular touristy parts of the city like Prague Castle. However, if you were looking for a reason to go to Prague Castle, then do make a reservation at the wonderful Kuchyň, which is situated in Salmovský Palace in the National Gallery at Prague Castle.

Incredible view of Prague from Kuchyn

First, you should come here for one of the best views of Prague. It is incredible. Even better with their cold Pilsner Urquell. Secondly, the food served from the Kuchyň kitchen is a cut above your hearty Czech fare, based on recipes used in the kitchens of aristocracy from the 16th century.

We started with chicken liver pate with plum puree (125 CZK) and vienna frankfurters with mustard and horseradish (95 CZK) – delicious. Not a huge pate fan here but this was very tasty. Mains, we chose the beef hanger in red wine with potato dumplings (245 CZK) – this was sensational. The signature dill sauce with eggs and potatoes (168 CZK) was nice too. We’re both not huge fans of dill but still enjoyed the dish. After all the beer and wonderful food, the refreshing strawberries with cream and nuts (95 CZK) dessert is the perfect ending to a great meal.

View of Žižkov from Vitkov Memorial Hill

7. Head to Žižkov

We start Day 2 in Žižkov

Žižkov has rather the reputation of being the bad boy of Prague with an edgy, alternative history. Žižkov takes is name from Jan Žižka, a fifteenth century one-eyed warrior who never lost a battle in his fighting history. A national monument in his name plays tribute to the man in Žižkov itself.

Žižkov was originally the lay of the working class Prague resident. From the architecture of the district it is evident that the layout of the land had been designed with extreme economy in mind. Aimed to pack the most number of people in a small space, here the streets are long and narrow and reach out to to the sky in lofty tenement style houses. Even though the neighbourhood is close and cramped, from a distance the chocolate box style houses with multicoloured pointed roofs look rather charming. Sticking out like a sore thumb from the rooftops, however, is the Žižkov TV Tower like an ode to an alien space film.

Open faced egg spread sandwich and the beetroot and cream cheese sandwich, Antonínovo Pekařství

8. Breakfast- Antonínovo Pekařství

If you still haven’t had breakfast or are looking for a snack in between meals or a good cup of coffee, this local bakery makes a great stop in Žižkov (they have outlets in Holešovice, Karlin and Vršovice too). The first thing that hits when you walk in here is the wonderful aroma of baked bread – think you can choose from 5-6 different types of bread, all freshly baked in the premises. You can enjoy their delicious bread with their soup of the day or their amazing open faced sandwiches. Sabrina loved her egg spread sandwich while I had a topping of beetroot and cream cheese – so filling, good and cheap (Two sandwiches came to 75 kr which is less than €3). They also have a range of local sweet baked goods and good ice-cream too.

Farmers market, Jiřího z Poděbrad Square

9. Checkout the farmers market at Jiřího z Poděbrad Square

An excellent start for a walk through Žižkov is the the Jiřího z Poděbrad Square. Built in 1896, the square was named after the famous Hussite King Jiří z Poděbrad (George of Podebrady) from the 15th century.

It is a popular meeting point for locals anytime of the week but it is definitely a good idea to visit when they have their biweekly farmers market, where you can discover everything from a wide selection of seasonal vegetables, herbs or local cheese to freshly baked traditional items such as kolacky or babovka.

Also the other thing to note – when you enter the square, you will spot the beautiful Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord (Kostel Nejsvětějšího Srdce Páně) from 1928-1932, a work of the renowned architect of Slovenian origin Josip Plečnik.

10. Žižkov Television Tower

Standing at a height of 216 metres and a defining monument in the Prague cityscape, the unquestionable defining landmark of Žižkov is its unworldly TV tower. Built between the years of 1985 and 1992, the Tower was designed by the architect Václav Aulický and structural engineer Jiří Kozák. The tower became famous after Czech sculptor and artist David Černý attached 10 of his giant metallic babies crawling onto the different sides of the tower. Opinions differ on the structure but the alien mothership definitely adds a layer of mystique to the neighbourhood. There is a 360 degree viewing tower plus restaurant, bar and super expensive hotel if your budgets permit.

11. Palac Akropolis

The nerve centre of Žižkov’s alternative nightlife scene is the grand Palac Akropolis. Build in the art deco style palace by Rudolf Svoboda in 1927, the symmetrical building with its bright colours looks like something straight out of a Wes Anderson movie. The theatre and club was sadly closed because of Covid but from October 2020 onwards, there are plans to reopen with an extensive list of local and international acts. During the day there’s a nice onsite cafe and restaurant to relax in. 

Nasi Goreng, Garuda Restuarant Prague

Holešovice

We now head to Holešovice, Prague’s former meatpacking district, which was recently voted by the Guardian as Europe’s coolest district. Home to some of Europe’s best contemporary art galleries, trendy designer shops, fab restaurants and some very futuristic clubs, Holešovice is another amazing part of Prague that is a great base to stay and explore a different side to the city.

12. Have lunch at Garuda Restaurant

As a newcomer to Indonesian cuisine, I have no authority on how authentic the food was but overall in terms of taste and cost, this was a decent lunch option in Prague 7. The daily lunch menu changes but we enjoyed traditional dishes like Nasi goreng and Sapi Rendang. They serve a small bowl of soup with any of your lunch dishes for free, so overall for 145 kr (€6.5) it is pretty good value.

13. Kuráž: A platform for the best Czech and Slovakian artists

Staying in Letna, pay a visit to Kuráž, (which translates to courage) the brainchild of Michala Butková who had the dream to create an outlet where she could provide a platform to some of the best Czech and Slovakian artists and designers. Representing almost 60 brands and designers, you can find a wide range of products on sale including clothing & accessories, jewelry of all sorts, notebooks, books, shoes, bags, etc. With Michala keeping an eye out for new, upcoming designers, you can also find something new and the perfect souvenir for friends here.

Cafe Letna, Prague

14. Get your late afternoon caffeine fix at Cafe Letna

Framed by large mirrors, plastered walls and crystal chandeliers, Cafe Letna feels like a throwback to a different era. If you’re looking for a relaxed chill vibe, nice pastries and excellent coffee (beans sourced from the Five Elephant Roastery in Berlin)this is a perfect stopover for your mid afternoon caffeine fix.

15. Dox Centre for Contemporary Art

Established in 2008 in a former metal factory, Dox put Prague 7 on the map for Contemporary Art and also marked the beginning of Holešovice’s transformation into the hub of all things cultural and alternative in Prague. The name DOX is derived from the Greek word doxa, which among other things means a way of perceiving things, an opinion, a conviction. Acting as a bridge between the local Czech and international art scene, guests visiting can expect large contemporary art installations, including its popular permanent one, the unworldly Airship.

Vnitroblock, Prague

16. Vnitroblock

Another disused factory turned multifunctional events and arts space, Vnitroblock is a mix of various institutions – the Signature Store and Cafe, the Sector dance studio plus an underground theatre/ movie centre. It’s a great space to work from during the day or swing by for a bite or beer in their outdoor courtyard.

17. Cross Club

Finish the day at the Cross Club, a Prague nightlife institution with its futuristic steampunk interior decor that looks straight out of some sci-fi movie set. From live bands to electronic beats, it is definitely one of Prague’s best clubs. The club also plays host to local and international acts ranging from dubstep to hardcore. Currently the club is working under restrictions but still hosting live music night and also operating as an open-air cinema in the summer. Checkout out their website for the latest info of what’s on (https://www.crossclub.cz/en/contact/?secured=1 )

Karlin

18. Karlín

We dedicate day 3 to exploring at leisure the district of Karlín. Karlín owes its name to the fourth wife of Emperor Francis I of Austria, Caroline Augusta of Bavaria (1792-1873). Karlín became incorporated into the city proper after the demolition of the city walls.

Karlín has rather a tricky history. It was originally rather a grim district with many industrial buildings. In an unassuming side street stands the ‘U Zabranskych’ pub – the birthplace of the Czech Communist Party and a latter day stomping ground of Neo- Nazis in the 1980s and 1990s. A flood decimated Karlín in 2002 so it is safe to say that the area has had its share of trials and tribulations. Karlín has undergone a facelift since then and now projects an attractive face to the world.

19. National Memorial on Vitkov Hill

Start your day with a view – Prague is a city of many hills and parks, all with great views of the city but one of my favourite views of the city is from the Vitkov memorial, looking onto the unworldly Zizkov tower and also of Petrin Hill in the other direction. Site of the famous Hussite battle, the site is dominated by the giant statue of Jan Žižka on horseback, reputed to be the 3rd largest bronze equestrian statue in the world. The site was converted into a mausoleum for the remains of Klement Gottwald and other Communist leaders and is now a National Memorial related to the Czechoslovak history of the 20th century.

Lyckovo Namesti, Prague

20. Lyckovo Namesti

We then head to what might be quite possibly the most beautiful square in Prague, surrounded by a beautiful garden and idyllic wooden benches, you will discover the imposing Art Nouveau edifice of the grandest elementary school you will ever see. Built in 1906 in the art nouveau style by local architect Josef Sakař, you will quickly see why the school was once recognized as the most beautiful school in the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Few good lunch options in Karlín – here are two of my favourites

21. Garage Karlín

There’s a strange novelty value of finding Canada’s beloved fast food and national dish, Poutine in Prague but it’s really good, especially after a few cold Pilsener Urquells in Lokal. French Fries, delicious cheese curds and then drizzled in gravy – this is one place I love coming back to when I’m in Prague. You can top up with pulled pork, shredded beef or bacon.

22. Lokal Hamburk

Ever since I’ve been coming to Prague, I’ve always had a soft spot for the Lokal chain of pubs which offer a modern twist on classic Czech staple dishes at very affordable prices and compliment it with delicious cold Pilsner Urquell from the tank. I love their branch in Malastrana, which is slightly less raucous than the other and this outpost in Karlín square. I love the building – it used to function as a former customs office, processing goods shipped by river boats coming from Hamburg, hence the name. Sample generous delicious starters like their sausages braised in dark beer (115 CZK), Liver Pate with cranberries (95 CZK) to main dishes like Pork Neck Steak (200g) with pepper sauce (225 CZK) Finish off with their excellent apple strudel with whipped cream (55 CZK).

23. Veltlin

Perfect way to spend our last afternoon in Prague is at another Karlín staple that we love returning to. Veltlin is a cute wine bar where the concept is focussed on sampling natural wines from the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which in modern day would be Hungary and Austria, Slovakia, Italy and the Czech Republic.  There is no menu to flick through. The wine sommelier will ask you what type of wine you prefer and based on your preference will give you three wines to taste. Once you’ve picked your favourite, you are served that wine. If you have no fixed agenda and plenty of time to spare, a few glasses of wine here is time and money well spent. The prices are pretty reasonable too. I wish there were more wine bars like this.

24. Kasarna Karlín

Another multi purpose arts space in what used to be the Karlin Barracks that housed the Austro Hungarian army in the 1840’s, Kasarna Karlín is another shining example of Prague’s urban revival in recent years.

There’s a popular outdoor cinema and stage, café, multiple bars, indoor galleries, club, a random sculpture/art garden and even a playground for kids. Pop in for a coffee or beer at the Kavárna Bazén aka Swimming Pool Café, where you have the novelty of enjoying your beer in the former army barracks swimming pool, which is now converted into a space where exhibitions, lectures, debates and author readings take place regularly.

Getting to Prague- take the train

Being based in Berlin, I took the train to Prague. Covering a distance of 281 kms and in a journey time of just above 4 hours, it is one of the most scenic train journeys in the world, especially the stretch just after leaving Dresden. Here, the train winds its way past the Elbe, through a succession of picture postcard riverside towns with the stunning backdrop of Saxon Switzerland. Booked in advance, price of a one way ticket costs as little as €15.70 via Czech Railways website.

I would strongly suggest treating yourself to a meal and a drink at the excellent dining car. We sampled the sirloin in cream sauce with pastry dumplings and cranberries [(262 CZK/€10.90 or 159 CZK/€6.60) during the happy hour. Check with the train manager when you board for the happy hour period] and the Spinach lasagna with ricotta (262 CZK, 149 CZK during the Happy hour). Beer is great value for around €3 and also the views from the wide bay windows of the dining car are fantastic too.

Where to stay in Prague: Miss Sophie’s Downtown

Centrally located, next to the main train station, the big plus for this brand new hotel is its fantastic location. We stayed on the 5th floor in one of their double rooms with a nice sized sized balcony. The double was extremely spacious and the bed was comfy. As with all other Miss Sophie properties , the interior design is minimalistic and pleasing on the eye. Another huge plus are the room amenities-free coffee and tea plus extras like complimentary bottles of water on arrival, shower gel and body lotion, cotton pads, plus hair dryer were also supplied. Last but not least there staff here were friendly and v.helpful. 

Room rates are incredible value for the location and quality- currently for August, you can book my double room with balcony for as little as €50 via Booking.com

Tip: Looking for wellness and relaxation. Checkout the Miss Sophie’s Spa 

After a long day of exploring Prague, we had the chance to book a private 90 minute session in the spa in the sister Miss Sophie’s Hotel in the New Town. The spa has its own hot tub, infrared sauna for you to relax. There’s some meditative, chilled music to relax you plus there’s a big station with nuts, dried fruits, tea , water and juice to rehydrate. There is even a small fridge with beers and sparkling wine which can be purchased at a very affordable price. 

The spa can be booked for upto, 90 minutes of relaxation,  3 people at a time for 1500 CZK.

However if you are visiting soon, there is a great discount of 50% for direct bookers. You get your 90 minutes of relaxation for only 750 CZK only when booked in advance online via the Miss Sophie’s website.

Disclaimer

Our trip to Prague was possible thanks to a kind invitation from Czech Tourism’s Germany office. However, all the views represented here are entirely my own. Huge thank you to Marketa and Barbora from Czech Tourism for making this trip possible. Thanks to Czech Railways for taking care of our travel arrangements. Also thanks to Chris, Babeta and the rest of the team from Miss Sophie’s for being such amazing hosts.

As borders open gradually and we all start making plans for the nearby future, I wanted to put on your radar a region of Austria that we visited late last year and had a terrific few days – Vorarlberg. To help you get an idea of the region, below you will find a FREE 5 day itinerary miniguide to the best things to do in Vorarlberg. To complement the guide you will also find a video that Sabrina created to give you a visual idea of all the places mentioned in the guide. Plus, on top of that with the help of the talented illustrator Jessica Smith ( with whom I collaborated on my book ‘The Grand Hostels’), we even put together an illustrated guide to Vorarlberg, which you can download for free here. Altogether, I hope you find the guide, illustrated map and the video useful. 

Vorarlberg Map

VORARLBERG

Nudging up against Germany, Switzerland and Liechtenstein on the borders of Lake Constance , a trip to the western most state of Austria, Vorarlberg is something that will stay with you for many years to come. Let me start with the landscape and the views from the countless beautiful peaks here. Hiking through the silence of the mountains and forests here, feels quite humbling, the way their silent grandeur make us and often our problems, insignificant. It helps you instantly trash all the crap in your head and filter out your stress and strains.

So many things to do in Vorarlberg – you’re really spoilt for choice here.

You have beautiful hikes to choose from through some stunning locations. Each hike pushes you out of our comfort zone a little more and keep you craving to go a little longer.

A holiday here is all about immersing yourself in nature. Whether you want to go on one of many countless stunning hikes or admire their wonderful wooden architecture, it is an extremely accessible destination. On top of that, you can find a bunch of wonderful places to stay and eat. They are not cheap by any means but all the places we visited, we think, represent great value for money. The following itinerary gives you some idea and a taste of what you can expect on a holiday in Vorarlberg.

DAY 1

Bregenz

A picturesque city situated on a plateau with dreamy lakeside scenes, Bregenz was the ideal starting point for our week long adventure in Vorarlberg. Sitting pretty on the eastern edge of Lake Constance the perfect time to visit Bregenz is during their famed summer Bregenz Festival, where superlative operatic performances take place on a floating lakeside stage. Even though we missed the festival, we had the chance to see the spectacular floating lakeside stage ( Note: Bregenz Festival won’t take place in 2020 and Verdi’s Rigoletto will be the featured opera for 2021 season)

Hop on the Pfänderbahn cable car

If you have a short stopover in Bregenz like us, do make time to go to the top of the Pfänder mountain -offering stunning views of the city,  Lake Constance and over 240 Alpine peaks of Austria, Germany and Switzerland combined, it really is some view. To enjoy the view, hop onto the Pfänderbahn cable car (Tickets for a return ride is €13.60 for adults, €6.80 for kids – 6-15 years- and €27.20 for a family ticket) On the top there is a panoramic restaurant from where you can enjoy the views while supping on a cold beer.

Lunch: Pier 69

The lakeside setting of Pier 69 is unbeatable, service is fab plus the food is a nice mix of modern European fare with dishes ranging from seafood paella to potato gnocchi with basil pesto. Their set lunch menu offer incredible value.

Kunsthaus Bregenz

Bregenz Culture Mile

Also recommend a wee meander along the Bregenz culture mile which has an incredible mix of old and new architecture. The walk should include a visit to the uber-modern KUB  aka Kunsthaus Bregenz museum for contemporary art.( Standard adult tickets costs €11, concessions €9. Combined ticket to KUB and vorarlberg museum is €17, €12 for under 25’s). A rota of revolving exhibitions means that there is always something new to see here. Illustrious exhibitions that have been hosted here in the past include those of Warhol, Weiwei and Antony Gormley.

PS For more about cultural events and attractions, hop over to the Bregenz Tourism website.

vorarlberg museum Bregenz

The vorarlberg museum, ( Regular tickets €9, Concessions €7 ) another stunning modern building, is the repository of the state’s art and cultural treasures. The collections here dig deep into the realms of archeology, folklore, art history and much more.

Hotel Baren Mellau

Sleep: Hotel Bären, Mellau

Our next stop and home for the next 4 nights was the village of Mellau (Take bus number 37 or 35 from Bregenz )

Mellau was a fantastic base to explore Vorarlberg. We spent 4 nights at the green-shuttered  Hotel Bären of Mellau situated in the charming village square. With an in-house sauna with outdoor terrace, a well stocked library on the first floor and an excellent in house cafe-restaurant where they serve an excellent buffet breakfast, this is a great perfect place to rest after a long day of skiing or hiking in the mountains.

Essentials: Room rates on Booking.com start from €50 a night per person based on 2 sharing. Rates include their excellent buffet breakfast, access to the sauna, free car parking and the free Bregenzerwald Guest Card if you stay 3 nights or longer in the summer. Bregenzerwald Guest Card gives you free access to public buses, cable cars and local public swimming pools. 

Tip: If you’re on a more strict budget, recommend Gästehaus Meusburger in Bezau (Rates start from €58 per room, per night). With garden, sun terrace, fully equipped dining room for guest use and supermarket, konditorei and ski bus stop nearby, this is an excellent budget option. The Bregenzerwald Guest Card is included in the rate for stay of 3+ nights during the summer.

Tip: The Umgang Bregenzerwald, a planned walk through twelve villages, is a fantastic way to take in the region’s beautiful architecture, the cheese of the Bregenzerwald, flora and fauna endemic to the area, including Edelweiss, the abundant winter snow and skiing and just enjoy the area’s stunning panoramic views. Green in the summertime and a glistening bed of white snow during the winter – the walk is the perfect way to enjoy the region’s unsurpassed natural beauty but also to learn more about the way people in the Bregenzerwald deal with their environment.

Schoppernau

DAY 2

Schoppernau

Our first stop of the day was the idyllic village of Schoppernau. We start the day with a free guided tour along the Umgang Bregenzerwald trail of the village organised by the tourism office.

Bergkäserei Schoppernau

The tour allows you to see some of the town’s most iconic buildings like the Bergkäserei Schoppernau, farmhouses, an old sawmill, the fire department, and the primary school. The half-timbered farmhouses with their overlaid beams and the white parish church with its black onion shaped dome are the buildings that caught my eye. Before you leave Schoppernau, make sure you sample the excellent cheese at the Bergkäserei as part of your tour.

Another Schoppernau highlight is a visit to the Villa Maund, designed by the genius of William Morris. The villa was built for Sir John Oakley Maund in the 1890’s and was later used by German Crown Prince William as a hunting lodge. Along its roster of notable guests is included the name of Queen Elizabeth II. The villa exterior is built in the English country style but the interior was a labour of love of several Bregenzerwald craftsmen. Master carpenter Johann Anton Strolz and Bischof Pius were responsible for the intricate wooden panelled interiors. I loved the place. With a striking wooden staircase decorated with taxidermy and a fireplace that is straight out of a Wes Anderson movie, it was a wonderful place to linger in. No surprise, the villa is highly in demand for wedding and special events. Access to the place is complicated but guided tours are offered in the summer by the nearby Hotel Adler ( E-Mail: villamaund@gasthof-adler.at or phone +43 (0)5515 2106 to book your place or find out more details of their guided tours).

Alphof Rossstelle

Lunch: Alphof Rossstelle

Food at the Alphof Rossstelle is decent and well priced  with dishes ranging from Wiener Schnitzel with fries (or salad, €10.90) to typical Bregenzerwald Kässpätzle with potato salad (€9.50). Big plus here is their outdoor seating-perfect place if the sun is out.

BUS: STOP Krumbach

We continue our architectural odyssey of Vorarlberg in the  market town of Krumbach which is part of the Bregenzerwald region as well. The key highlight of any visit to the Krumbach are visiting their unique bus stops. I know, going to see a bus stop would not be the usual thing that one would put on a holiday wishlist but these bus stops, designed by 7 acclaimed international architects, are probably the most unique bus stops in the world. The project, known as BUS:STOP Krumbach attracted several international architects from Belgium, Spain, Russia, Norway, China, Japan and Chile.

The architects while bringing their own vision and designs, had to rely on the craftsmanship of locals to build the 7 bus shelters. They were employed using local materials and unique skills to build the project. Hence, touring the bus stops is a way of not only assimilating the local craftsmanship but also taking in the village scenery. At the same time it shows how important and well-developed the public transport network is. More information about the BUS:STOP Krumbach project , click here.

Dinner: Gasthof Adler, Lingenau

We finish our day enjoying dinner at the excellent family run Gasthof Adler which is part of a relaxed mountain hotel on the edge of Lingenau. The hotel is designed in the typical chalet style with the verandahs heavily laden with the bright flowers that are typical to this region. The dining here is rustic, relaxed and great value-perfect place to sample some classic dishes from the region. I enjoyed the classic Kässpätzle (German for “spätzle with cheese”) which is a traditional dish enjoyed in Vorarlberg and also in Swabia Germany, Liechtenstein and Switzerland. The Vorarlberg variation of the dish uses Bergkäse and Räßkäse, a local hard cheese from Vorarlberg and it is topped up with butter and thin crispy onion rings (€15 and comes with a green salad) while Sabrina enjoyed pork medallions in a creamy mushroom sauce with spätzle (€18.90). The restaurant also serves a 3 course menu with wine for €38.90.

DAY 3

Breakfast at the Hotel Baren Mellau

Breakfast at Hotel Bären | Off to Bezau

We fuel for a big day in the mountains with the mother of all buffet breakfasts at the Hotel Bären’s cosy inhouse cafe. There is a big emphasis on local organic products here.  From the bread which comes from the village bakery to the milk, cheese, yoghurt, eggs, jam and honey- all products in the buffet are sourced from Vorarlberg. There’s delicious coffee on tap, freshly made juices plus there’s unlimited supply of freshly brewed coffee. There are vegan as well as gluten-free options.

After breakfast we hop over to Bezau on the bus number 40 from where we hop onto the Bezau Seilbahn. All transportation is covered with the Bregenzerwald Guest Card which you receive for free from an hotel if you stay 3 nights or more.

Baumgarten

We then hopped onto the gondola from the village Bezau up to the top, Baumgarten where we found a lot of people relaxing in their modern panorama restaurant with a scenic terrace. We then took a nice 1.5 hour panorama hike from Baumgarten which has a couple of scenic vantage points along the way. The day we went, the mist was thick and visibility poor initially. It all added to the atmosphere, especially with the distant refrain of cow bells filtering through the mist. The sun would occasionally burn through the clouds to reveal some breathtaking views of Lake Constance in the distance. Definitely a hike to enjoy when you have clearer skies but for most of our hike, the clouds remain hemmed in to create an eerie atmosphere that felt like out of a Sherlock Holmes novella.

Lunch at Bergrestaurant Niedere

Lunch at Bergrestaurant Niedere

At the end of the panorama hike was the promise of a wonderful lunch at the beautiful mountain inn, the Bergrestaurant Niedere . With spruce walls, maple tables and oak floors, the hut is a beautiful spot to rest after the hike. Gathered around the log fire, we have a glass of wine and sample their cheese platter which includes their homemade mountain cheese.

Nostalgic chairlift down to Andelsbuch

Andelsbuch

Afterwards we take the nostalgic retro chairlift down to the village of Andelsbuch. I don’t have much of a head for heights but the chair lift was secure and with cloud clearing in the afternoon and the mountain valley bathed in sunshine, it was such a beautiful ride down.

                                                                                                                                                                    Andelsbuch has a wonderful air of calm and peace that is only broken by the odd car whooshing by. You are right in the middle of the valley, surrounded by grassy meadows.  The main drag of the town is a picture of Austrian rural idyllic perfection – lined with beautiful timber buildings, wooden balconies overflowing with colourful flowers.  

Werkraum Bregenzerwald

GASTGEBEN exhibition, Werkraumhaus Andelsbuch

Werkraum Bregenzerwald

The village naturally draws in many visitors thanks to its eye catching wooden architecture but the one place that stands out from all the surroundings is the Werkraumhaus, a minimalist glass temple designed by renowned Swiss architect Peter Zumthor.

Designed with the help of craftspeople of the region whose almost 100 members were involved in everything from wood processing, joining, carpentry to locksmiths, bricklayers and lighting producers working their magic, Werkraumhaus distills centuries of craftsmanship of Bregenzerwald under one roof. Within its 700 m2 space at any time of the year, you can expect a variety of exhibitions showcasing the works of its members. During my visit, I had the chance to experience the excellent GASTGEBEN exhibition which explores the important theme of what craftsmanship and hospitality have in common.  Do take some time to browse the Werkraumhaus shop which showcases the handiwork of its members with items ranging from felt baby swings, wooden toys to chopping boards and stools.

Address: Hof 800, 6866, Austria

Admission fee is €7.50 while students enjoy a reduced fee of €5.

No fee for children and young adults age 15 and below

The exhibition hall is open Tuesday to Saturday, 10 am to 6 pm. Closed on Mondays, Sundays and Public Holidays. Checkout their website for more details of what’s on.

Dinner: Jöslar Inn

Afterwards if you’re thirsty for a beer and feeling peckish, highly recommend dropping into the old inn turned modern café and bar, the Jöslar inn. Their house speciality are their delicious toasted paninis which go perfectly with their excellent local Egger beer on tap. The inn also has a regular programme of live music plus on the 1st Sunday of every month they do a cinema (showing all the latest movies. Next movie being shown is Joon-ho Bong’s Oscar winning Parasite) + 3 course dinner evening. Starting at €35 it is a popular draw with locals and tourists alike.

DAY 4

Lech am Arlberg

Our next and final stop of our trip brings us to the beautiful mountain village resort of Lech am Arlberg. Located in the Bludenz district by the banks of the mighty river Lech, Lech Zürs is a popular winter skiing destination but in summer transforms into a paradise for hikers, bikers and runners thanks to its vast stretch of unspoilt lush mountain meadows, deserted mountain lakes and incredible array of walking trails. It is a truly stunning place to be in the summer. Like wise old sages, mountains stand back to back, to form a stunning panorama of emerald green peaks. From whichever point you have the pleasure of standing, on the top of the mountain or in the town of Lech below, you have this wonderful patchwork of beautiful wooden log houses, thick alpine forests and wide grassy meadows bursting with wildflowers and of course the cows.

View from our bedroom window!

Sleep: Haus Braunarl

We hop on the bus 40 from Mellau Zentrum to Lech Schlosskopf.

From there it is a short walk to our hotel for the next few nights- the excellent Haus Braunarl. Run by Lech born and bred Anna-Katharina Gusner, this cosy and comfortable hotel was the perfect place to relax after a long day exploring the beautiful outdoors of Lech. The apartment rooms are spacious, beds very comfortable, great shower and of course, all rooms have dreamy views of the mountains. There is also the added benefit of a kitchenette, if you wish to prepare your own meals. Anna is happy to stock up your fridge before you arrive with milk, butter, bread, eggs -just request this in advance. There is also the added benefit of an onsite sauna, steam bath, solarium and chill out room-perfect way to chill after a long day in the mountains. For an extra €14 there is the luxury of treating yourself to their filling buffet breakfast. If you wish to prepare your own breakfast, there is a well stocked SPAR supermarket just down the road. Anna has a good selection of beers and wine, if you wish to indulge with a wee drink.

Essentials: Rooms here start from €84, per room, per night via Booking.com

Tip: Get the Lech Card

Our next stop is the tourist information point to get our Lech Card. The card, similar to the Bregenzerwald Guest Card gives you access to all public transport within the area, from enjoying the view on top of one of the mountains via their summer cable card or visiting the Lake Spullersee and the Lake Formarinsee in the Zugertal valley which I planned to visit. Plus there are other excellent fringe benefits like accessing the forest swimming pool or if the weather is bad, you can go bowling at the sport.park.lech. The Lech Card starts from €23 which is valid for 2 days. If you plan to stay longer, invest in their 1 week card which for €36 is excellent value.

Panorama Bus to Formarinsee Lake

The Lech Card was a good investment for me as I could hop on the Panorama bus to the beautiful Formarinsee Lake in the Zugertal valley. The bus stop is the starting point of a beautiful hiking trail that extends all around the circumference of the Formarinsee Lake and leads you to the enchanting Freiburger Hütte. It is an easy hike of about an hour and the scenery is just out of this world.

Panorama hike to Freiburger Hutte

Lunch, Freiburger Hut

Freiburger Hut, Lech Zurs Arlberg

Hiking from ‘Hut to Hut’ is one of the key attractions of visiting this part of the world. Alpine Mountain Huts like Freiburger Hütte provide hikers and walkers with protection from the elements, a warm bed and a hot meal. Some are located high in the mountains and serve as ideal base camps during a long hike while others like the Freiburger can be easily accessed on a fun day out and perfect for families with children. The food here is hearty fare- I ate grilled sausage with a dab of mustard, shredded horse radish and bread washed down with a local beer. I think the mountain air and long day of hiking makes everything taste good – this meal was wonderful. Hop back to Lech on the panorama bus.

Rüfikopf

DAY 5

Rüfikopf

After a filling breakfast at Haus Braunarl we hop on the cable car (with the Lech Card ) from Lech to Rüfikopf which sits at an altitude of 2350 metres. The ride up and down is memorable, mainly for the breathtaking panoramic views of the Lech am Arlberg and the Tannberg hiking region above Oberlech.

Rüfikopf is a popular  starting point for a few wonderful hikes that include the first stage of the Green Ring as well as the Geoweg Rüfikopf trail.

Stunning Monzabonsee Lake, Lech Zurs am Arlberg

Given that we had limited time, we went for a short hike down to the stunning Monzabonsee lake. We found one of the famous ‘doors’ that were lined along the Green Ring trail. Sadly the project after several years in existence was disbanded in October 2019.

Afterwards we had lunch at the Rüfikopf panorama restaurant. Nothing beats drinking a cold drink and having lunch while enjoying the 360 degree views from the restaurant. I highly recommend trying their Rösti (potato pancake) with crispy bacon & alp cheese or if you’re looking for something more simple, the Spaghetti Bolognese is fantastic. Worth mentioning that if you’re visiting during July and August, the restaurant offers a morning pint with live music. Every Friday there’s an exclusive sunset journey with sparkling wine reception or a panorama Fondue evening at sunset.

Oberlech

Gypsum holes, Oberlech

Oberlech

After hopping on the gondola back to Lech, we spend the afternoon exploring Oberlech. We take the Schlegelkopf chairlift from Lech and from there it is a scenic walk of about 30 minutes to the Gipslöcher nature reserve which is home to the unique gypsum holes. The crumbly gypsum karst of this area lends itself to these unique network of underground tunnels and caves. This unique geological phenomena is home to a large colony of marmots which we sadly did not see during our visit. We also did not see any orchids which bloom mainly from July to mid-August. Home to 20 different species of orchids, the area is a genuine treasure trove for botanists.

Skyspace Lech

Skyspace Lech

From the gypsum holes it is another 30 minute walk to another unique structure – James Turrell’s walk in art installation, The Skyspace Lech. James Turrell’s work mainly revolves around the delicate relationship between light and space. A great example of this is the Roden Crater, an extinct cinder cone volcano located outside Flagstaff, Arizona which he is turning into a massive naked-eye observatory for experiencing celestial phenomena.

The Skyspace Lech continues his passion for ‘apprehending light’ -it is an enclosed room, large enough for roughly 15 people. Inside, you can sit on benches along the edge to view the sky through an elliptic shaped opening in the roof. The Skyspace hosts an evening sunset light performance (lasts for about 45 minutes) during which you can spot the Biberkopf summit and the village Bürstegg on one side and on the other the Omeshorn. The walls and ceiling are bathed in colour-changing light. Sadly, we did not time our visit for the sunset show but if your schedule permits, definitely book one of the guided tours which takes place before sunset. Tickets costs €15 and can be reserved via their website. In the event of bad weather, the dome is closed, so a second artists concept called the Ganzfeld space is played to visitors.

Getting around Vorarlberg : Travel for free with their inclusive card!

Checkout my earlier guide to discovering Vorarlberg’s amazing architectural heritage and also my brand new guide to the best things to do in Feldkirch also visit the official Vorarlberg Tourism website to help plan your trip.

Booking.com

Earlier this summer I had a chance to visit a city that has long been on my Europe bucket list – Vilnius. We were searching for a romantic short break in Europe – our main criteria was warmth, somewhere with character, tons of culture plus most importantly, it would have to be cheap. Romance is always better with a cheap cold beer, right? Step forward the G-spot of Europe– Vilnius.

First impressions were wow. It is an impossibly romantic and beautiful city to wander, thanks to its preserved old town which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Nothing beats losing yourselves in the labyrinthine cobbled streets in the core of Vilnius’s old town, slowly peeling back  its complex layers of history, architecture and culture – we loved every moment.

Besides ‘love’ another word that sums up Vilnius is ‘history.’ Every street you turn in Vilnius, you enter a different era and turn a page of history. Its has been inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site because Vilnius had a profound influence on the cultural and architectural development of much of eastern Europe. Soaking in the eclectic mix of Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Classical styles spread across the city gives you an idea of the grand status that Vilnius enjoyed as the heart of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, which was the largest country in Europe back in the 15th century (stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea). 

Fast forward to 2020, Vilnius is back in the spotlight thanks to a thriving modern art scene, a growing underground music scene, a fantastic array of gastronomic experiences while still remaining one of Europe’s best value cities.

Here is my list of the best things to do in Vilnius during a 48 Hour shortbreak.

Gate of Dawn, Vilnius

1) Gate of Dawn

The ‘Gate of Dawn’ or the ‘Sharp Gate’ is a gate in the city of Vilnius and an important national monument. It’s origin harks back to the early sixteenth century when ten such gates aligned themselves along the city’s periphery. As of today, only the Gate of Dawn still remains standing.

When visiting the gates, make sure to stop and see the ‘Our Lady of the Gate of Dawn’ icon of the Virgin Mary at the Chapel of the Gate of Dawn. Do notice the embellishments on the city gates – which are meant to guard and protect the city!

Address: Ausros Vartu g. 14, Vilnius 01303, Lithuania.

View from the top of St John’s Bell Tower

2 St John’s Church

Definitely unmissable when walking the streets of the city is- the Gothic Hall Church of St. Johns  which has the enviable status of being Vilnius Old Town’s tallest building!

Consisting of three naves, seven asymmetrical chapels this lofty tower was built to impress. During you visit do not miss the 10 presbytery altars arranged in a semi-circle at varying heights and also the illuminated Gothic presbytery windows . The panoramic views from the top are the icing on the cake.

Address: Sv. Jono g. 12, Vilnius 01123, Lithuania.

3. Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights

The Museum of Occupations and Freedom Rights is a museum occupying the former KGB headquarters of Vilnius. However, whatever the Museum lacks in cozy atmosphere, it makes up for in the dedicated display of objects and documents related to the Soviet Occupation of Lithuania in the 19^th century.. Collections include various books and publications related to the non-violent part of the resistance and also that of armed resistance. Photographs, personal effects and papers of the victims of deportation are also on display. Even before the KGB days, the building was a Gestapo headquarters. The most chilling part of the museum however, are the prison cells and torture chambers in the basement where many prisoners lost their lives.

Essentials: Admission to the museum is 4 Euros for adults; 1 Euro for children and students and free with the Vilnius City Card.

Address: Auku g. 2A, Vilnius 01400, Lithuania.

4. Church of St Peter & Paul

Nestled in the Antakalnis neighbourhood of Vilnius, the Church of St Peter and Paul lays claim to having 2000 stucco figures and if that wasn’t enough, it’s considered a masterpiece of Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth Baroque architecture.

The main entrance is guarded by two stone statues of Saint Christopher carrying Baby Jesus and a skeleton. The message is that although Saint Christopher is the Protector, Death comes as an inevitable end to each and every living person.

The vestibule contains a scene from the Last Judgement. The central nave has sculptures of the twelve apostles. The central nave leads into four chapels: The Queen’s Chapel, The Knight’s Chapel, Saint Ursula and Saint Augustine. This Church has incredible detail and you could easily pass the better half of a day observing the fine religious art that embellishes its interior.

Address: Antakalnio g. 1, Vilnius 10312, Lithuania.

At the entrance to the republic of Užupis in Vilnius you can read their constitution

5. Užupis Republic

If searching for a place a bit bohemian, artistic, a place that doesn’t follow worldly rules, then you will have found your nirvana in The Užupis Republic of Vilnius Old Town. In Lithuanian Užupis  means “beyond the river” and it refers to this part of the city that is set across the Vilnia River. Visit the Bernardino Cemetery, one of the oldest in the city and the gilt Angel of Užupis sculpture in the main square – a tribute to the memory of caricaturist Zenonas Steinys but now rather an emblem of the Republic.  Winding cobbled streets, strange and wonderful art installations and the compete disregard for protocol in the Republic, makes visiting this out of the world neighbourhood, an experience to remember.

Cool fact: Legend has it that the bronze figure of the Užupis Mermaid that greets you when crossing the bridge into the tiny Republic, lures travellers from all across the world.

Vilnius Cathedral

6. Vilnius Cathedral

The Cathedral Basilica Old St Stanislavsky and St Ladislaus of Vilnius or more simply known as Vilnius Cathedral is a Roman Catholic Cathedral situated in the heart of Vilnius Old Town, at Cathedral Square. Apart from being a place of worship and the coronation cathedral of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania it is also the resting place of many Lithuanian and Polish royals. During a dark time in the Cathedral’s history, it was converted to a warehouse and known as the “The Gallery of Images”- housing more than 40 works of art. With origins as a Gothic Cathedral, Vilnius Cathedral has undergone many changes to assume its current Neoclassical style with facade embellished with beautiful sculptures of the Four Evangelists.

Address: Sventaragio g., Vilnius 01143, Lithuania.

7. Gediminas Castle Tower

Take the quaint funicular railway from the foot of Gediminas Hill to the top of Gediminas Castle Tower and admire panoramic cityscapes set against the River Neris. Alternatively, a path from the River Vilnia side will allow you to walk to the top. An observation deck at the top of the tower will provide you with all the bird’s eye view shots of Vilnius  your heart desires. Those interested in history will marvel at  the Vilnius Castle Museum with constructs of models of Vilnius’ castles from the 14^th to the 17^th century.

Essentials: Entry is 5 euros for adults and children and free with a Vilnius City Card.

Address: Arsenalo g.5, Vilnius 01143, Lithuania.

8. St Anne’s Church

According to legend, Emperor Napolean upon seeing St Anne’s church wanted to carry the church back to Paris ‘in the palm of his hand’. Could this be due to the superior architectural style – a mix of Brick Gothic and Flamboyant Gothic? Or the beautiful interior with nave and towers, decorated in the Baroque style? Whatever the reason, this reddish-clay brick church from the 1500’s occupies a place of prominence in Vilnius’ Old Town.

Address: Maironio g. 8, Vilnius 01124, Lithuania.

9. National Gallery

In contrast to the antiquity of Vilnius Old Town, the National Gallery of Art has a modern facade. The Gallery is the largest archive of information and artifacts related to Lithuanian artists from the 20^th and 21^st century. A library reading room, permanent exhibits including installations, objects of art, painting, sculpture, photography and video art are all part of the Gallery’s excellent repertoire. Admission is three euros for adults and free with the Vilnius City card and on the last Sunday of each month. The museum is closed on Mondays and public holidays.

Address: Konstitucijos pr. 22, Vilnius 08105, Lithuania.

Mint Vinetu Bookstore

Alternative ideas for Vilnius

Vilnius might have the prettiest old town with countless number of churches but the key to enjoy the city is to look for the alternative and quirky things around. And there’re plenty of them: Uzupis district, street art, cute little angels or incredible cemeteries just to name a few.

10. Mint Vinetu Bookstore

This is the best place in Vilnius to relax with a good book or have a good browse of the excellent second-hand stock in a chilled, laidback and cozy atmosphere. Sip on a cup of refreshing tea or hot chocolate and browse the bookshop’s excellent collection. The serene atmosphere will rejuvenate you. There are many comfy chairs that will help you to discover new books or reacquaint you with some classics. The bookshop is divided into an English and Lithuanian section but there are second-hand books in Russian, Polish, French, German and Spanish.

Address: Sv. Ignoto g. 16, Vilnius 01144, Lithuania.

Where to eat and drink in Vilnius

Sabrina highly recommends the cocktails at Vieta- Conscious Vegetarian and Vegan Food

11. Vieta- Conscious Vegetarian and Vegan Food

For the best vegetarian food in Vilnius with a friendly, lively vibe look no further than Vieta. The menu has a bit of everything, ranging from their delicious blue cheese and caramelised onion Panini ( €5.60) or their soy chilli with vegetables (€5) or tofu steak/ soy patty burgers with fries (€6.60). They do some fantastic cocktails here and the ladies who run the place are wonderful.

Snekutis, Vilnius

12. Snekutis

If you’re looking for traditional Lithuanian food in a relaxed, unfussy atmosphere accompanied by cheap local beer, Snekutis is the place to go to. Choose from a range of hearty local classics like the favourite Cepelinai -large dumplings prepared with a mixture of raw and cooked potato dough filled with pork and then soaked in a sour cream and bacon sauce ( €4.90 for a big portion), bright pink chilled borscht soup aka Saltibarsciai which is a beetroot soup served in summer with boiled potatoes or boiled eggs ( €1.50 for a small portion) or try their cured cheese or potato pancakes served with sour cream ( €5 for a big portion) – so many delicious food options at amazing prices.

13. Busi Trecias

Another great option for cheap tasty Lithuanian food in a simple unfussy bar packed with locals, is Busi Trecias. If you’re interested in more dark and also sweet flavoured beers, this family run bar with a brewery in the basement has a good selection of affordable tasty beers.

Trying Kibinai and other pastries at the Pinavija Bakery and Cafe, Vilnius

14. Pinavija Cafe & Bakery

The pastel perfect Pinavija is a chic family run bakery with an excellent range of sugary and savoury treats to satisfy you. One of their signature products is the ‘Kibinai’ pastry which originates from the Karaite ethnic minority in Lithuania. The half moon pastry which reminded me a lot of a Cornish pasty or a Pastizzi is traditionally filled with mutton or beef but in Pinavija they have a number of savoury (vegetarian too) and sweet options.

Alchemikas Cocktail Bar

15. Alchemikas Cocktail Bar

With low-lighting and a quirky decor that could belong to Sherlock Holmes’ living room plus friendly mixologists, Alchemikas Cocktail Bar is all about the experience and enjoying classy cocktails in a very classy ambience.

16. Vasaros Terasa

Vasaros Terasa  (which translates as the Summer Terrace ) has been a prominent fixture of the Vilniuscity life for fourteen years. From live concerts and live DJ sets, to flea markets and outdoor al fresco drinks in the summer – this is definitely a place you shouldn’t miss out when visiting the city.

17. Where to stay in Vilnius

The perfect place to base yourself for your 48 Hours in Vilnius is the Old Town. There’s a great selection of very affordable and stylish apartments to rent which start out at €40 a night.

If you’re looking for something bit more social, Downtown Forest Hostel & Camping is located a short walk away from the main Vilnius attractions, yet in what many argue is the coolest district of the city – Uzupis (known also as a self-declared independent republic). Guests can choose from dorms or private rooms (both ensuite and with shared bathroom) depending on their budget. The star feature of the hostel is their outdoor terrace which transforms into a bar in the summer. Every now and then there are concerts happening outside the hostel. Locals come here to have their own BBQ or chill so it is the perfect place to meet locals. 

I visited Vilnius as part of a new storytelling project with UNESCO and the new World Heritage Journeys of the European Union project. This project wasimplemented with the support of the European Union in partnership with National Geographic brings together 34 World Heritage sites through four different thematic itineraries: Royal Europe, Ancient Europe, Underground Europe and Romantic Europe. For more details and plan your own UNESCO World Heritage adventure, hop over to the Unesco World Heritage Journeys of Europe website. 

Winter in Canada and especially winter in Ottawa is a once in a lifetime experience that you must put on your travel bucketlist.

“There is no bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.”

Ranulph Fiennes

Scared of the cold and the Canadian Winter? Well, as the great Ranulph Fiennes once said, there’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothes. The key to surviving & enjoying winter in Ottawa is making sure you have the right winter wear. I’ve pulled together in this post a list of winter essentials. Plus in this guide I’ve also answered some key questions like when is the best time to visit Ottawa in winter, where is the best place to stay in Ottawa on a budget and of course, I’ve shared with you a pretty solid guide of the best things to do in Ottawa in Winter. This is by no means an ultimate guide to Ottawa in Winter but it gives you a good roundup of all the key essentials you need to factor in when planning a trip to Ottawa in Winter.As always, I’d love to get your feedback- I will be revising and adding to this guide over the next few months to come. So, please drop me a line below in the comments or email me at kash AT budgettraveller dot org if you have any tips or recommendations. Thanks for reading and I sincerely hope you find this guide useful. Plus, for a more personal account of my trip to Ottawa, checkout my recent blogpost of how I fell in love with winter in Canada and Ottawa. 

Cafe with a view: The cafe at the National Gallery of Canada is affordable plus offers dreamy views of the surrounding winter wonderland

How much should you budget to visit Ottawa in Winter

Winter in Ottawa can be very affordable with a wide choice of almost free outdoor and indoor activities to choose from. You can go hiking or snowshoeing across Gatineau Park or ice skating along the Rideau Canal: both these activities will not eat much into your budget. Plus, depending on when you visit there is a range of free cultural activities to choose from. Parliament Hill tours are free every day ( more details below) and the National Gallery of Canada is free to enter on Thursdays from 5 to 8pm.  You also get free access to the Canadian Museum of History (formerly the Canadian Museum of Civilization), the Canadian War Museum and also the Canadian Museum of Nature from 5-8pm on Thursdays.  Canada Aviation and Space Museum, Canada Science and Technology Museum and the Canada Agriculture and Food Museum offer free admission everyday from 4-5pm.  Accommodation will be one of your key expenses. I’ve outlined 4 budget to midrange options below but I also recommend you do check out Hostelworld and also places to stay on Airbnb. ( If you haven’t used Airbnb, use this link to get £33 off your first stay ) I would plan on budgeting up to $100 per day. This would includes a night’s stay at a hostel or a budget hotel, food from supermarkets or fast food restaurants for lunch and dinner later in a restaurant and access to visitor attractions. Your other key expense will be your flights to Ottawa. I always recommend searching via Skyscanner. I can see deals for under £500 with Air Canada at the moment for for a long weekend in February 2022.

For how long should you visit Ottawa in Winter

Ottawa is fairly compact, so it only takes a few days to see the major sights. I would recommend spending at least four full days in the city. You could spend more, of course, but four days will give you a good overview of the city. 

One of the highlights of our visit to Ottawa in Winter: The amazing Nordik Spa Nature

Best things to do in Ottawa in Winter

One of the highlights of Winterlude Festival is marvelling at the sculptures created during the International Ice Carving Competition

1.Come for Winterlude Festival

Winterlude Festival – Canada’s Capital Region’s annual flagship event of the winter season, is a great time to visit Ottawa. Not only is this festival a celebration of the Canadian season of winter, it is also a celebration of diversity with the addition of numerous cultural events to the program. The Canada’s Capital Region encompasses Ottawa, Ontario, Quebec and Gatineau, so the festival is well spread out. Every year, new locations are added to the festivities including Downtown Rideau, Sparks Street and ByWard Market. Enthusiastic volunteers and generous sponsors make the event possible. The festival hosts a variety of events ranging from the famous Ice Sculpting competition in the Byward market to snow activities for children, skating and games at Jacques-Cartier Park and the famous Winterman race (More on that below).

Update: Sadly due to Covid, the 2022 edition of the annual Winterlude festival has been cancelled. 

2. Parc Omega

Parc Omega is a wildlife park situated 1 hour away from Ottawa. The park helps you to experience the best of Canadian wildlife and nature. Not only is a visit to the park an opportunity to see the region’s flora and fauna, it is also a chance to experience the culture, history and heritage of Canada’s First Nations. Parc Omega is open year round and is a lovely place to visit with family. Enjoy hiking trails, picnic areas, animations and see Canadian wildlife like elk, bison, moose, wolves and bears up-close and personal. These animals are kept in their natural environment. Some activities not to miss at Parc Omega include the daily birds of prey show, daily wolves presentation, the canoe building workshop and pony rides at the Old Farm.

Me and Sabrina pulling our usual silly faces and posing in our snowshoes in Gatineau Park. Photo credit: Cory Varga, You Could Travel

3. Snowshoeing and Cross Country Skiing Gatineau Park

Gatineau Park is a 361 square kilometer park, whose main entrance is located 4 km north of Downtown Ottawa. This is a beautiful expanse of greenery that turns into a snowy wonderland during winter. Biking among the many trails, cross country skiing and snowshoeing during the cold months and zip lining are just some of the lovely activities the park affords.

Cost: Snowshoes can be hired from the Gatineau Park Visitor Centre in Chelsea. They cost $9 per hour to hire or $28 for the day.

Timings for hire: Monday to Friday, 9 am to 2:30 pm (last rental); must be returned by 3:30 pm. Saturday and Sunday, 9 am to 3:30 pm (last rental); must be returned by 4:30 pm.

For more about snowshoeing in Gatineau Park, checkout the official website

Nordik Spa Nature

4. Nordik Spa Nature

This spa is located only 10 minutes from downtown Ottawa at the gates of Gatineau Park. Nordik Spa Nature is the largest spa in North America and provides a host of Nordic indulgences like outdoor baths, saunas, a restaurant, lounge, indoor and outdoor relaxation areas and even a beer garden with terraces. A number of pampering treatments are at your behest. Admission is $68 or $136 for 2 people. The admission fee allows you to use their facilities for a full day. Within the price you can enjoy their baths (hot, cold and temperate), saunas, outdoor and indoor relaxation areas as well as the restaurant & lounge with terrace. This will be one of the more expensive experiences of your trip but definitely well worth the splurge-perfect for getting over the jet-lag on day 1 of the trip. I had only enough time to spend a few hours but would have happily spent the whole day here.For a more in-depth review, checkout my earlier blogpost- ‘Winter in Ottawa‘ .

Address: 16 Nordic Road, Chelsea, QC J9B 2P7

Hours: Sunday-Thursday 9am-11pm; Friday-Saturday 9am-midnight

More information about rates, click here.

Ice skating on the Rideau Canal which in winter freezes to form the largest ice skating rink in the world

5. Ice skating along the Rideau Canal

The Rideau Canal connects Ottawa to Lake Ontario and the Saint Lawrence River. A section of the waterway freezes and converts into the world’s largest skateway and ice rink in winter. Passing through downtown Ottawa, ice skating is definitely a great way of getting a feel of the amazing winter wonderland of Ottawa- with skaters of all ages passing through, the backdrop of the city skyline and iconic buildings like the Chateau Laurier looming in the background, this experience really sums up the magic of experiencing winter in Ottawa. I am a terrible ice skater but if you’re a keen skater or looking to get the hang of it, this is the place to go. The other added bonus of skating along the canal is treating yourself to a BeaverTail– a fried doughnut sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. You can buy it from one of the many kiosks lining the skateway along with a hot beverage.

Canadian Museum of Nature Fossil Gallery- Photo Credit: Ottawa Tourism

6. The Canadian Museum of Nature

This is Canada’s premier natural history and natural sciences museum.

The museum has four main collections relating to Botany, Geology, Paleontology and Zoology with many subdivisions. The museum has eight beautiful permanent galleries: the Fossil Gallery, Earth Gallery, Mammal Gallery, Water Gallery, Bird Gallery, Nature Live, Stone Wall Gallery, Landscapes of Canada Gardens and the Canada Goose Arctic Gallery. Exhibits are showcased in the Victoria Memorial Museum Building. Highlights of this Gothic Revival style beautiful museum, nearby Parliament Hill, are the dinosaur fossils, blue whale skeleton and Canada Goose Arctic Gallery installation. 3D Movies, special workshops and these exhibits are sure to keep the whole family enthralled.

Address: 240 McLeod St, Ottawa, ON K2P 2R1

Hours: June 1 to Labour Day- open daily- 9am to 6pm

Labour Day to May 31st- Monday closed, 9am to 5pm, Thurs till 8pm

Tip: Canadian Museum of Nature alongside the National Gallery of Canada below is free to enter on Thursdays from 5 to 8pm.

National Gallery of Canada

7. National Gallery of Canada

Canada’s most comprehensive art collection is to be found in Ottawa’s ‘National Gallery of Canada’. The Gallery’s permanent collection contains paintings, drawings, sculpture, photographs with a focus on Canadian art. It does, however, feature works by American and European artists, especially a wonderful contemporary art collection with stalwarts like Andy Warhol being well represented.

Canadian artists to look out for include Tom Thomson, Emily Carr, Alex Colville, Louis-Philippe Hebert and Jack Bush. Do look out for ‘The Temptation of St. Anthony’ by Hieronymous Bosch, Hans Baldung’s ‘Eve, the Serpent and Death’ , Lorenzo Lotto’s ‘Madonna and Child with Saint Rich and Saint Sebastian’, Benjamin West’s ‘Death of General Wolfe’ and works of famous Impressionists grace the Gallery.

Address: 380 Sussex Dr, Ottawa, ON K1N 9N4, Canada

Hours: May1-Sep30, 10am-6pm everyday except Thursday 10am-8pm

Oct 1-April 30, Monday closed, Thursday extended hours (8pm), all other days 10am-5pm.

Alex Janvier’s stunning ‘Morning Star’ mural is one of the many highlights of visiting the Canadian Museum of History

8. Canadian Museum of History

The Canadian Museum of History is located in Gatineau, directly across the Ottawa River from Parliament Hill. The museum’s collection highlights objects that shed light on the cultural history of the Canadian people. Members of staff are experts in history, archaeology, ethnology and folk culture and customs. The museum is also home to the Canadian Children’s Museum.

There are three splendid exhibition halls – the Grand Hall, the Canadian History Hall, and the First Peoples Hall. The Grand Hall is the architectural marvel of the museum, featuring a panoramic wall of windows that provides views of Parliament Hill and the River.

Address: 100 Laurier St, Gatineau, QC K1A 0M8

Hours: all days 9am-6pm except Thursdays – 9am-8pm

Tip: Canadian Museum of History is free to enter on Thursdays from 5 to 8pm.

Bonus tip

Do not miss the exhibition of arguably Canada’s biggest icon, Terry Fox featured in the Canadian History Hall of the Canadian Museum of History. I didn’t know who Terry Fox was until I came to Canada. I remember seeing this statue of a striking young man in front of Parliament Hill. I wondered who this young determined looking boy was with the most amazing mop of hair. “Terry” Terrance Stanley Fox was a Canadian athlete, humanitarian, and cancer research activist. In 1980, aged 21, with one leg having been amputated because of cancer, he embarked on an epic pan Canadian run to raise money and awareness for cancer research. The spread of his cancer eventually forced Terry to end his quest , 143 days and 5,373 kilometres (3,339 mi) after he started. Despite his untimely death, his efforts have been pivotal in raising awareness of cancer.  Terry Fox set out with a goal to raise $1m through his run and along the way that became a goal to raise $1 for every Canadian, which at the time would have been $23m. He reached that goal before dying. Till date, $650m has been raised. The exhibition is an intimate, moving and personal journey into the short but amazing life of Terry Fox, one that will stay with you for many years.

Taking part in Winterman was one of the major highlights of the trip

9. Take part in the Winterman Race

With a mind and body numbing 5.274 kilometer track loop, the Ottawa Winterman Race has been described as Canada’s ‘Ultimate Winter Marathon.’ We managed to do just the 5k which was quite an experience(more details in my earlier blog post and also checkout the video above ). This is something I would recommend to anyone who is passionate about running.

10. Ottawa Brewfest

One of the highlights of our visit to Ottawa was attending the annual Ottawa Brewfest. It is a great event where you have the chance to sample beers from craft brewers across Ontario and Quebec. The 6th edition of the Ottawa Brewfest will take place next year from 6-7th March, 2020. More details can be found here.

11. Watch a play at the Ottawa Little Theatre

Ottawa Little Theatre is Canada’s oldest community playhouse. At the time of its inception in 1913 it was called the Ottawa Drama League . The theatre specializes in classic repertory theatre. The company produces a nine-play season, which features plays with an emphasis on mystery, comedy, farce and drama. The season runs from September through July.

Address: 400 King Edward Ave, Ottawa, ON K1N 7M7

12. Visit the Mayfair Theatre for a classic flick or new release

If like me you like quaint and indie movie theatres, then definitely make a date with the Mayfair Theatre, Ottawa’s oldest running movie theatre which has been in operation since 1932.  Famous for showcasing cult classics (Rocky Horror Picture Show every Halloween!), family matinees and independent movies, I love the nostalgic vibe of this place.

Address: 1074 Bank St, Ottawa, ON K1S 3X3, Canada

13. Swing by House of TARG to play some pinball

The House of TARG in Ottawa is a unique live music venue that also has amazing pinball and arcade machines to liven things up further. Feast on hand-made pirogies along with a side of cold beet salad, sauerkraut and dill infused sour cream, when your game of pinball leaves you tired. Release the inner child in you – cool, funky music and pinball – what’s not to like?

Address: 1077 Bank St, Ottawa, ON K1S 3W9

14. Check out Lucky Ron, local Ottawa legend, at the Château Lafayette

Chateau Lafayette was at one time a classy tavern and hotel but down the ages, its avatar has gradually changed. Not that it doesn’t have an attractive character in the present day. The Chateau Lafayette, lovingly called “The Laff” is a homey pub and tavern, set in the heart of Ottawa’s ByWard Market. The size of the place is similar to a large sized living room but this watering hole has achieved legendary status for many reasons. One of the largest ones is the presence of ‘Lucky Ron’ – a one man country music show that is run by Ron Burke. The Saturday Show is a set list, which does not vary much and has the same jokes, lines and music. But the show is so popular that Ron Burke is a veritable legend.

Address: 42 York Street Ottawa, ON K1N 5S6

Hours: Tues-Sat 11am-2am; Mon and Sun 11am-1am

15. Free Guided tour of Parliament Hill

Visitors to the city should not miss the chance to take a free guided tour of Parliament Hill, one of the most iconic landmarks of Ottawa and home to the country’s federal government from where Prime Minister Justin Trudeau runs government. Visitors have the choice of taking two free guided tours-House of Commons and the Senate which temporarily house the Parliamentary Chambers. For guided tours of the House of Commons and the Senate, make sure your reserve your tours well in advance online. The online booking system shows real-time availability and allows advanced reservations.

Best places to stay in Ottawa on a Budget

1.Barefoot Hostel (Women Only)

Located in a 100 year traditional brick building , Barefoot Hostel ( Rated 9.0 on Hostelworld ) is a women only hostel located just 500m away from ByWard Market and the Ottawa Convention Centre. Guests benefit from a shared kitchen on the property with free coffee/tea/hot chocolate, nice sized common lounge with 50 inch HD TV, free WiFi, an outdoor terrace to relax in, garden and daily housekeeping. Situated in a central location close to major attractions like the Byward Market is another major plus of staying at this hostel. 4 bed dorms have comfortable beds with an European style Duvet and Cover, along with free linen and towels. Every guest has a locker for their valuables (remember to bring your own lock). 

Address: 455 Cumberland Street, Ottawa

Avoca Room. Glencree House B&B

2. Glencree House B&B

This bed and breakfast is about 2.3 km away from Ottawa Convention Centre and also Rideau Locks. Rooms are spotlessly clean and in a quiet area, near the canal. Guests enjoy the perks of a private seating area, bathroom, flat screen TV with each unit plus a full English/Irish breakfast every morning!

Address: 39 Patterson Avenue, Ottawa

Glencree House B&B

$100

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3. Auberge des Arts Bed and Breakfast

Located in downtown Ottawa within 200 metres of ByWard Market, this bed and breakfast has an unbeatable location. Free WiFi and hot daily breakfasts add to the pleasures of staying here, along with private bathroom facilities, air conditioning, microwaves and fridges with some units.

Address: 104 Guigues Ave, Ottawa

Byward Blue Inn

4. ByWard Blue Inn

The ByWard Blue Inn is in the ByWard Market area and 10 minutes away from the National Gallery of Canada. Each room at the Inn has private bathrooms equipped with a shower and a bath tub. Certain rooms enjoy city views from a balcony. Rooms have a fridge, microwave and even a small table to work. Daily breakfasts and afternoon tea are served at the Inn, adding to the warmth and comfort of the location.

Address: 157 Clarence Street, Ottawa

My favourite neighbourhoods to stay in Ottawa

Hintonburg

Hintonburg is an artsy neighbourhood in Ottawa. Especially noteworthy is Hintonburg’s shopping and dining scene. A number of trendy supper clubs, bistros, boutiques, cafes, coffee shops and brewpubs are to be found in the area. Laroche Park is the venue for hosting fairs and outdoor events. The Great Canadian Theatre Company stages edgy productions. Alive, scenic, exciting, promising and full of flair, Hintonburg showcases the best of Ottawa’s creative consciousness.

Glebe  

The Glebe neighbourhood is located south of downtown Ottawa  and further bound by the Rideau Canal in the south and east. The Glebe neighbourhood is mostly residential and accommodates a community that mostly have families. Bank Street is the premier shopping street with stores and restaurants that offer a wide range of shopping and dining opportunities. Lansdowne Park, home to T.D. Place Stadium and the Canadian Football League is also a place of great activity. The Rideau Canal passes picturesquely through the Glebe and is at its most beautiful best during Autumn.

Little Victories Cafe, Glebe.

Cheap eats and drinks in Ottawa

‘Ottawa has a vibrant food and drink scene with tons of energetic festivals throughout the year. The cuisine ranges from uber-Canadiana (think BeaverTails, poutine, maple-everything) to Vietnamese, Lebanese, French-Canadian, and much more. As the capital of Canada, Ottawa is home to high commissions and embassies which represent countries from around the world, and this is reflected in our cuisine and food festival offerings.’

Julia Thomson. Ottawa Tourism

BeaverTails Pastry

You cannot leave Ottawa without sampling the most beloved of all Canadian treats-the sugary doughy delicious BeaverTail pastry. The BeaverTail trucks are positioned all along the canal. The BeaverTail is modelled after Canada’s largest rodent and symbolic mascot, the Beaver. It’s like a doughnut but flattened, stretched out to an almost wiener schnitzel wafer thin consistency. Topped up with cinnamon, sugar and lemon it’s a wonderful calorific rush. The average price of BeaverTails ranges from $4.50-$7.50 depending on what toppings you pick.

El Camino

Intimate and boisterous El Camino is one of my favourite restaurants in Ottawa. It has a cool industrial decor, people perched on high stools along the long bar counter where bartenders are preparing some of their popular tequila- and mescal-based cocktails. Tuck into their signature tacos, definitely some of the most delicious tacos I’ve tried. Also highly recommend their salt and pepper squid. We loved the relaxed vibe here and the old-school pinball machine is also a nice added touch of retro fun.

Address: 81 Clarence St, Ottawa, ON K1N 5P5, Canada

Craft Beer Market: Gourmet burgers ( with amazing fries) and excellent range of craft beers

Craft Beer Market

This beer market located on historic Bank Street seeks to bring craft beer lovers under one roof. Serving 100 different beers on tap, you will be surely spoiled for choice. Fresh beer, fresh food and events such as Brewmaster’s Dinners, Tuesday Cask Night and Oktoberfest will guarantee a good time at the Craft Beer Market.

Address: 975 Bank Street, Ottawa, ON K1S 3W7, Canada

Shanghai Restaurant (With Karaoke )

Fancy sampling a slice of China in Ottawa? Look no further than the Shanghai Restaurant with festive Chinese food, wonderful art displays and crazy karaoke nights with a drag queen as hostess. Enjoy the Kwan family’s Asian style cuisine in Ottawa’s first Chinese restaurant, opened in 1971.

Address: 651 Somerset St W, Ottawa, ON K1R 5K3, Canada

Belgian waffles with poached eggs, bacon and maple syrup-brunch at Art in Bakery is really something else

Art-Is-In Bakery

The Art-Is-In Bakery is a chic, contemporary style bakery-cafe providing sumptuous treats like bread, pastries, sandwiches and baguettes. Make sure to try the flaky, buttery croissants, pistachio pie and juicy burgers with a cup of perfectly crafted hot coffee.

Address: 250 City Centre Ave #112, Ottawa, ON K1R 1C7

Ottawa Bagelshop and Deli

The Ottawa Bagelshop and Deli at 1321 Wellington Street in Hintonburg has been drawing in hungry customers with the sweet aroma of their freshly baked bagels for over 30 years now. From the original three varieties (sesame, poppy, and cinnamon raisin) brought over from the famed St.Viateur Bagel in Montreal, they’ve added their own range of unique delicious flavours like Rosemary and Olive Oil and Lemon cranberry.

Address: 1321 Wellington St W, Ottawa, ON K1Y 3B2, Canada

Hintonburg Public House

Pull up a chair at the bar at the Hintonburg Public House and treat yourself to a selection of their excellent local craft beers. I highly recommend the IPA from the local Bicycle Craft Brewery. They have some excellent bar snacks to soak in the beer like pickled eggs and marinated cheese curds sourced from the excellent local St Albert’s fromagerie. Very homely and attracting a wide cross section of locals, from retirees, hipsters, students to graphic designers, IT gurus, artists and amateur musicians- this is a great

With open-mike nights, beer tastings, dance parties, and art exhibits, there’s always something to keep visitors engaged. 

Address: 1020 Wellington St. W., 613-421-5087

ByWard Market

Bustling. Alive, 363 days of the year (closed Xmas and New Years Day!) don’t leave Ottawa without spend some time exploring the ByWard Market area , home to one of the oldest and largest farmers’ markers in Canada. Packed with great restaurants, bars, bistros, cafes and shops, this is a great neighbourhood to explore. Check out some of the staple food shops, some of which have been around since the earlier beginnings of the Market: House of Cheese, Lapointe Fish, and more.

If you want delicious Mexican food in Byward market Corazon de Maiz is a must. I highly recommend their chicken tostada and veggie tacos. Wash it down with a classic Jarritos lime soda. Portion sizes are generous plus prices are fantastic.

Looks like a fun way around Ottawa…

Best way to get around Ottawa in Winter

Ottawa’s public transport system is run by OC Transpo and under its umbrella includes bus service and the O-Train. The O-Train is the light railway system but this does have limited connectivity. The bus rapid transit system runs in and out of Downtown Ottawa at very frequent intervals.

In Mid September, Ottawa just launched a Light Rail Transit system. It has 13 stations running from Tunney’s Pasture in the west (a 10-minute walk to Wellington West/Hintonburg neighbourhood), through three underground stations downtown to Blair station in the east. It’s known as the Confederation Line and it connects to the O-Train at Bayview Station (the second-most westerly station). Phase II (under construction now) will extend farther west, farther east, and farther south to connect to the airport. This will be completed in stages between 2022 and 2025. 

Downtown Ottawa is very walkable but during the cold months you might want to grab a taxi. Taxis are easy to find downtown and have a metered fare. Ottawa also has Uber and Lyft. Parking at downtown locations is available although might be expensive at premium locations. Park at the World Exchange Plaza for free parking. Ottawa is accessible to cyclists and there are many riding paths attractive to tourists.

Bonus tips to enjoy Ottawa in Winter 

Checkout the live music scene

It has been mentioned here already but besides a vibrant food and drink scene, Ottawa has an excellent live music scene. I’ve already told you about Lucky Ron’s amazing show at the Château Lafayette plus do go to Elgin Street which has a number of bars with live music. LIVE! On Elgin is one of the most popular venues here with a regular programme of local bands. Ottawa Citizen has an excellent roundup of the best venues for live music.

Go to the movies on Tuesdays

Tuesday is the cheapest day to go to the cinema in Ottawa – you get 50% off your movie tickets and snacks! Great deal. Half the city may turn up too so make sure you arrive early to get tickets and your snacks.

Packing list for visiting Ottawa in Winter

Here’s my packing list for preparing for winter in Ottawa. Being based in Europe, Decathlon is my go to place for all things winter or outdoors-great products at a really good price.

1.Waterproof boots

A good pair of boots is probably one of the key investments you have to make when making the most of winter in Canada. Make- sure they are waterproof-there is nothing worse than wading through snow and having the cold ice water seep into your socks and making your feet cold. Also common sense but make sure your soles have some grip so that you won’t slip.

I bought these Quechua Men’s Snow Hiking Boots X-Warm from Decathlon and they were a lifesaver. Great price at just £49.99

2. Winter Coat

Investing in a good winter coat is a must. Again, you want something warm, breathable and also wind, waterproof. Don’t buy anything too thick or heavy, especially if you’re planning to do any outdoor sports, hiking or skiing.

I have Decathlon’s Wedze Men’s Freeriding Ski Jacket Fr100 (£74.99) It’s very loose and gives me a lot of flexibility, warm and keeps me dry in any kind of weather conditions.

3. Ski pants

Odd one if you’re not going skiing but I really swear by my ski pants when it comes to winter and especially for any outdoors activity like snowshoeing, hiking or skating in the snow. Good pair of ski pants will be insulated inside so they feel very cosy plus on top of that they are waterproof and wrap around your snow boots so you can wade into inches of snow and be dry.

My pants are again from Decathlon and I recommend Wedze Men’s Ski and Snowboard Trousers Snb Pa 100 (£39.99)

4. Other essentials

It is all about the layers in winter- definitely get a thermal base layer that keeps all the heat in. On top of that you can layer with another looser fleece pullover or sweater-something light but keeps you warm with maybe lambswool is perfect. On top of that a 3rd layer like the jacket would do or an additional light fleece jacket-all depends on how cold the weather is. Good thing with layers is that you can peel them off when you feel warm. Other essentials-get yourself some ski mittens-keep you warmer than gloves. Plus the other Canadian winter essential is a good toque or wooly hat. I also like the comfort of a neck warmer which you can pull over your chin and face if you feel the cold winter breeze eating into your face. Last but not least, have a few pairs of proper thick woollen socks. Merino wool is perfect.

Disclaimer

This post was in association with Destination Canada and Ottawa Tourism for the campaign ‘Fall in Love with Canada’.

All the views expressed here are entirely my own, unbiased and to help you decide, plan a trip to Ottawa in Winter. If you are planning a trip to Ottawa in Winter, please let me know in the comments below or by emailing me kash AT budgettraveller.org

For more information about how to enjoy Ottawa in Winter, checkout their guide to Wonderful Winter Activities in Ottawa and their comprehensive list of free things to do in Ottawa in Winter.

Where are all the tourists ?’, we wondered as we sipped on a lovely glass of the local Müller-Thurgau wine. It’s 11.30am – must be wine o’clock somewhere. Suns beating down on our heads and there’s an eerie pindrop silence in the main square. The only thing that breaks our reverie are the occasional trucks delivering barrels of wine. Plus every 15 minutes you hear the unique 37 porcelain bells of the Frauenkirche ‘Church of Our Lady’ rattle the empty blue sky for a few seconds before returning the square to its blissful solitude. We soothe our souls further with wine, sunshine and that silence, looking in awe at the century old pastel perfect buildings around us. God, Meißen you are beautiful. How come no one told me about you? Germany is studded with so many fairytale towns and villages and Meißen is right up there with the best-definitely a city worth visiting. If you are curious to learn more, I have created a guide of the best things to do in Meissen over a weekend or a simple day trip from Dresden.

1. Have a guided tour of Meissen

Meissen is a compact town but with a lot of detail. In order to understand the city better within the limited time we had, we were very happy to have a guided tour of the city from local, Silke Altmann. Silke main passion is wine growing and she runs a very popular winery tours of the region.

The wine growing region in Saxony spreads from Pirna, Dresden, Meißen, Radebeul up to Diesbar-Seußlitz in the northwest of Meissen. Lot of our initial conversation, which centred around wine, led us to our first discovery of the day.

Just on the cobbled street leading from our hotel, Silke points out these lush, forest green leaves climbing up the walls of the local Schinkenkeller. These were some of the oldest vines in the city which still produce grapes to this day and are used for making wine. Silke then leads into the very pretty, cobble-stoned square of Meissen’s Altstadt. One of the key landmarks of the square is the Church of our Lady ‘Frauenkirche’ church. If you have the time, do climb the 193 steps up the spire of Frauenkirche church to get some incredible views of the city. However, given the limited time we had, we stood outside the church to observe its very unique bell tower. The bells of the church are pretty unique- built in 1929, the 37 bells are made from the local Meissen porcelain. At regular intervals throughout the day, the bells ring so time your visit around the bells.

Meissen is a ridiculously pretty town with beautiful cobbled streets and some really unique buildings. One of the unusual characteristics of many of the older buildings were these lovely built in seats at the entrance. As you can see from the picture, perfect for having a chat with a friend while soaking in the lovely sunshine.

Silke takes us through a shortcut -a very steep staircase that leads from the cobbled square to  Albrechtsburg Castle. There is a wee cable car that can take you up but the walk albeit quite taxing,  rewards us with some lovely views of the fantastic medieval skyline of the Aldstadt and the Elbe river in the distance.  We then go for a brief wonder around the exterior of the majestic Meissen Cathedral– Silke recommends we have lunch at the historic Domkeller restaurant and also that we do not miss the organ concert at 12pm-cool tips like that which always make having a guide so useful.

Essentials: You can organise a tour of Meissen or a wine tour via Silke’s website

Albrechtsburg Castle

2. Visit the oldest castle in Germany: Albrechtsburg Castle Meissen

The iconic landmark of the city, the Albrechtsburg Castle in Meissen was established in 1471 in the Gothic style. The Castle, beautifully poised above the banks of the Elbe River, presents the perfect picture postcard view of Meissen. The interior of the medieval castle is designed in the late-Gothic style and is considered Germany’s oldest castle.  The castle was built with the idea that it was to be a regal residence. A palace built on the grounds of superior architecture rather than enhanced defence. Architectural novelties of the time were cellular vaulting applied throughout the castle, arched windows and a basement over two floors deep.

However, rather than serve as a royal residence, Albrechtsburg Castle functioned as a place to manufacture porcelain. In the late nineteenth century the castle was given another facelift with the creation of many murals depicting historical events that occurred in and around the castle. Presently, Albrechtsburg Castle is the repository of all these treasures, weaponry, historical furniture, candelabra and various household effects.

Address: Domplatz 1, 01662 Meissen, Germany

Hours: Monday to Sunday – 10am to 6pm

Rates: Full rate – 8 Euros; Reduced Rate – 6.5 Euros

Lunch at Domkeller Meissen- I know I have a half pained expression but that face is the embodiment of true happiness-great meal and what a view!

3. Lunch at the oldest restaurant ( with a view!) in Meissen: Domkeller Meissen

The Domkeller definitely lives up to the hype and is one of the highlights of any trip to Meissen. I would use the word “Gemütlichkeit” to describe it- that feeling of instant zen, cosiness when you walk into place. Formerly the cathedral cellar, the restaurant has a wonderful rustic feel typical of a German bierkeller. Dating back to 1270, it is the oldest restaurant in Meissen. One of the best places to dine here is their outdoor terrace which offers the best panoramic views of the city. The restaurants offers a range of very hearty and filling local Saxon dishes. Sabrina enjoyed a beer goulash ( €13.60) which was served in a loaf of bread with some salad on the side. With her dish she also received a 0,3 glass of the local Saxon beer. I ordered grilled pork slices served in a black beer sauce with sauerkraut and potato dumplings. ( €15.80) Also recommend trying here the local Meissen beer, the Schwerter Schankhaus -pils type of beer, easy to drink. Lovely place-do visit!

4. Catch the afternoon organ concert at Meissen Cathedral

Meissen Cathedral, also known as the Church of St John and St Donatus, is like its neighbouring Castle, built in the Gothic style.

Key features of the Cathedral to pay particular notice here include the Cranach altarpiece, the intricate portal to the Princes Chapel, the main lofty, vaulted nave of the Cathedral and the two 81 metre high Neo Gothic spires. The present day Cathedral dates back to 1260 AD and includes sculptures of founder Emperor Otto and his wife Adelaide. The interior of the Cathedral were also embellished with the paintings of Lucas Cranach the Elder during this time.

The beautiful Prince’s Chapel was a later day addition in 1425 and was used as a family burial place for the Kings and Queens of Saxony.

Best time to visit the Cathedral is during their organ service from 12-12.30pm ( Fee: €3 ) Meissen Cathedral is no longer used for church services but is open to the public from 10am- 5.30pm for a nominal entry fee.

Address: Domplatz 7, 01662 Meissen, Germany

Day 2

5. Watch sunrise from the Meissen Albrechtsburg

Perfectly perched on top of the hill Meissen , Albrechtsburg offers panoramic sweeping views of the Elbe river below and the sea of red tile roofs that define the Aldstadt and beyond. If the sky is clear and if you are an early riser, it is definitely worth getting up at sunrise to climb up the hill to the Albrechtsburg : the castle has a small outdoor terrace from where you can get great views plus it is free to access at all times.

6. Church of Our Lady in Meissen

The Church of Our Lady in Meissen is a Protestant church that has a history dating back to 1205 AD. It’s a beautiful little church that has evolved over nine centuries, hand in hand, with the town’s economic development due to the upswing of the guilds. The Gothic Hall Church was completed in 1450. The Church towers over the remainder of the town and along with Meissen Castle and Cathedral forms a distinctive and recognizable part of the town’s skyline.

Make sure you take some time to pause and listen ( every 15 minutes) to the church chorales played on the 37 porcelain bells that have been playing tunefully since 1929.

Address: An der Frauenkirche 1, 01662 Meissen, Germany

7. Lunch at Fuchshöhl Punjabi Haveli

I didn’t expect to find a proper authentic Indian restaurant in Meissen but that’s what Fuchshöhl Punjabi Haveli is: authentic flavours, freshly prepared and really delicious ‘home style food.’

If you want a bit of everything, strongly recommend their ‘thali’ dishes where you get a choice of two curries, rice, dahl (lentils), roti ( flat bread) and chutney. It’s a steal at just €8.50!

8. Guided tour of Meissen Porcelain

I’ll openly admit-I’ve never been a fan of porcelain and visiting the museum was not high on my list. However, visiting Meissen and not going to the Porcelain Museum would be like visiting Paris without seeing the Louvre or the Eiffel Tower. Meissen is the biggest and oldest manufacturer of porcelain in Europe and porcelain aka ‘white gold’ played a huge role in the city’s history.

Little bit about the history of manufacturing porcelain in Meissen: Meissen Porcelain Manufactory has been in business for the past 300 years. The porcelain pieces of Meissen are world famous for their quality, purity, exclusivity and the high level of craftsmanship that is poured into each individual piece. In the 17th century European nobility were struck with the porcelain craze. At the time porcelain pieces were obtained at high prices from Asia. After considerable effort from skilled chemists, miners and smelters Saxon clay was employed to produce European white porcelain. The first European Porcelain Manufactory was established in Albrechtsburg Meissen and the secrets of porcelain manufacture were kept a closely guarded secret. However, within a few years Porcelain manufactories were cropping up all over Europe but the signature Crossed Swords of the exceptional Meissen porcelain is one the oldest known continuously used trademarks to this day.

Back to the present: first thing that catches your eye when you enter the museum is the magnificent Saxonia, a life-size elegant female made from 8,000 single handmade Meissen porcelain blossoms and referred to as the Saxon Statue of Liberty. It is the largest freestanding porcelain sculpture in the world and was created to mark the 25th anniversary of German reunification.

Other highlight of the trip is the building itself- built in 1916 in the style of a Neoclassical banquet hall, it is beautiful building to walk through with lots of light and adding an air of grandeur to proceedings. What you see in front of your eyes is basically a journey into 300 years of porcelain manufacturing, from 1710 to the present day, the collection is presented chronologically. The pieces themselves are beautiful and really exquisite examples of amazing craftsmanship. I would have loved to have bought a cup or plate for my family but it is really expensive. One thing to remember here is that all the Meissen plates, cups, and vases are still crafted together by hand today.( I did buy a magnet made from porcelain for €25-probably the cheapest souvenir I could get my hands on ) To get an insight into the process of how these pieces are put together, guests to the museum are invited to observe the craftsmen at work where you can see how Meissen porcelain takes shape- from how the porcelain is moulded and then turned into figurine to later when the painter applies the famous cobalt blue paint and later when colours are applied by hand to the glaze of the porcelain. Another thing I loved about the tour was the chance to speak to the craftsmen themselves, some of whom have been working at the factory for almost 30 years. One thing that was clear speaking to them all that the job is a true labour of love- many had to serve a 3-4 year apprenticeship before they were made permanent.

Address: Talstrasse 9, 01662 Meissen, Germany

Top tip: Try the Meißner Fummel at Konditorei Zieger

Don’t leave Meissen without trying the city’s famous delicacy, Fummel! It is probably the most unusual pastry in the world: a puffed up balloon of wafer thin dough with a generous filling of air and dusted with sugar.

The pastry has a great backstory: Augustus the Strong apparently asked local bakers to make this very fragile pastry for his couriers to carry. The couriers who were entrusted to carry the Meissen porcelain would often break it because of their fondness of Meissen wine. To prevent them from drinking, the couriers would be required to carry the fragile fummel and show it intact on arrival in Dresden-savage eh

Best place to savour the Meißner Fummel is at Konditorei Zieger ( Rote Stufen 5, Meissen )

Hotel Goldener Lowe

Where to stay in Meissen: Hotel Goldener Lowe

Built in 1657, this hotel located in the heart of the old town of Meissen’s picturesque old town is the perfect base for exploring the city. Rooms are very charming in keeping with the historic character of the hotel, extremely spacious and clean. There’s a very cool bar downstairs complete with fireplace-perfect place to relax after a long day of exploring the city. We did not get a chance to eat at the hotel restaurant but heard only good things. Plus, the buffet breakfast is fantastic here with a range of hot and cold items plus they also have Sekt if you’re looking for a sparkling start to your day. The staff here were extremely welcoming and helpful- they made our stay very enjoyable.

Address: Heinrichsplatz 6, 01662.

Via booking.com, prices for a double room start around the €80 mark.

Disclaimer

My stay in Meissen was possible thanks to the support of the Saxony Tourism Board who invited me to discover some of the region’s lesser known cities: Meissen, Görlitz and Bautzen. I’d like to take the opportunity to let you know that while my trip was supported by the tourism board, the article and all the views represented here are entirely mine. Thank you for reading.

I’ve been visiting Lisbon for several years but somehow I never made it to Sintra for some reason. Some places exist in our imagination- half realised, half imagined. You already know the place well from pictures and stories, your soul already inhabits its contours but somehow your body just hasn’t made it there. Sintra was that place for me.

I blame it also on Lisbon. Everytime I visit, the days just disappear into thin air. I never tire of walking these streets. Always some new watering hole or restaurant to induce you into a big food coma. After almost two weeks of winding our way through Lisbon during our last trip, I found myself dreaming about visiting Sintra again.  This time, I had to go. My only concern is that I had only a few hours. Plus, there is a fair amount of walking and climbing up hills involved when it comes to Sintra. From all the advice I received from friends in Lisbon, its best to dedicate a day, an overnight stay, possibly 2 nights if you want to get to the best out of Sintra.

We could take the bus to Sintra or the train. The best option in our case, given the limited time we had, was to take a guided tour. For those of you who know, read my blog will know that I’m not a fan of guided tours. In many cases, I feel like I’m being given a dreary monotonous history lesson which I could read in any guidebook. What’s the point in taking a tour then? Plus I hate big groups. Not very intimate. The feeling of being herded like sheep to slaughter.

I prefer bespoke guided tours where the guide is flexible and can personalise the tour to meet your interests. So when Withlocals,a Dutch based peer-to-peer market place and startup offered me to try one of their bespoke Lisbon tours , I thought why not give them a shot. All their experiences are private and for a maximum of 8 people. As you’ve guessed from the name, you have a choice of locals who you can choose for your tour. In our case for Sintra, we could choose from 4 ‘Withlocals’ to take us to Sintra. All the ‘locals’ had a video profile where you can learn a little about them. Which is cool but still doesn’t leave much to the imagination: at some point the whole process of finding a guide to match your needs feels almost like finding a date online. Rita was the only person not to have a video profile ( she has now! Click here ) but she sounded very cool, down to earth in her profile. When she professed her love of food and local markets- that’s the moment I thought she would be perfect for the tour.

Once Upon a Time in Fairytale Sintra

The tour beautifully named ‘Once Upon a Time in Fairytale Sintra’ offers you the chance to take in some of Sintra’s key highlights in a few hours with a few extras chucked in that include a trip to the westernly most point of Europe.

The other big advantage of taking the guided tour with Rita was the fact that she had a car and could drive us around Sintra. The narrow hill roads of Sintra are not really designed for cars but given the limited time we had to see Sintra, it was perfect to have Rita drive us around. Also since we were coming from Lisbon to Sintra and returning, Rita for a small fee , offered to pick us up and drop us off in Lisbon which was really really handy.

There are two regular inexpensive train services from Lisbon to Sintra for those who prefer taking the train. ( 40 minutes from Rossio, return journey costs €4.50 )

Hopping on the car from Lisbon was also cool because it gave us some time to break the ice with Rita and learn more about her work and about Sintra. Just as we had imagined, Rita was super cool and down to earth. Within minutes we were exchanging stories about travel, food and we clicked instantly. We also discussed a rough plan for the day and what we might be able to cover in the 4 or so hours.

So. Some background information about Sintra. The town of Sintra is just 23 kms away Lisbon. However thanks to its scenic location in the pine covered hills of the Serra de Sintra, Sintra feels like a world away from Lisbon. Because of the cooler climate in Serra de Sintra, back in the 19th century many of Europe’s wealthy ruling elite and aristocracy built summer residences here. The result: the hills are draped with extravagant palaces and opulent mansions which give the town an almost Disney like fairytale feeling. Add to that the ruins of an ancient castle dating from the Moors and you get the idea that Sintra is no ordinary town.

With so much to see and so little time, the challenge in half a day in Sintra is deciding what to see. Rita’s advice was given the short amount of time, to avoid the colourful, eclectic Pena Palace where hordes of tourists were arriving even at the early hour of 10am.

Castelo dos Mouros

We happily skipped Pena Palace and headed straight to the haunting Castelo dos Mouros, a fortification that the Moors built in the 8th and 9th centuries. Built at elevation of 574 feet, thanks to to its advantageous position the Castle was an important strategic point during the Reconquista before it fell to Christian forces after the siege of Lisbon in 1147. The earthquake of 1755 caused considerable damage and the castle fell into a further state of neglect.

The castle to the present day has this feeling of being broken, unloved in parts which lends to its charm. We really enjoyed walking along the rugged inner walls of the castle from where you get a pretty amazing panoramic view of Sintra and beyond. The weather on the day we visited in January was quite temperamental which in some ways added to the atmosphere. The picture below gives you an idea.

Pena Palace Sintra from Castelo dos Mouros

From one of the towers we also got a birds eye view of the exterior of the dreamy Pena Palace.

We wind our way down to our next stop, the mysterious and lovely Quinta da Regaleira.

On our way, a few things catch our eye.

1. The street names, made from painted ceramic azulejos tiles, a typical feature of any trip to Portugal, always draw me in.

2. Another thing I loved walking around Sintra were the lovely drinking fountains. A legacy of the Moorish rule, the level of detail and colours really takes your breath away.

Strike a pose: Sabrina perfecting the photographer’s pose in the beautiful gardens of Quinta da Regaleira

We finally arrive at the Quinta da Regaleira and the place really takes your breath away at first sight. From waterfall lakes and labyrinthine grotto’s to a chapel and the palace itself- it’s mesmerising but at the same time, the place feels quite strange. You never know quite what lies ahead.

Water Fountain, Quinta da Regaleira

Once owned by the Baroness da Regaleira, towards the end of the 1800’s, the quinta came into the ownership of a certain Carvalho-Monteiro, a distinguished bibliophile, collector and philanthropist. He commissioned Luigi Manini, a famous opera and theatre designer to incorporate his mysterious iconograpical vision into the Neo-Manueline style of the estate.

Rita had been visiting the Quinta since she was a child. The place has always had a hold on her because of the mysticism and stories behind the beautiful facade-  Carvalho Monterio was a devout Mason and had incorporated masonic imagery and symbols in several places across the estate.

Initiation Well

The most fascinating and eerie masonic imagery can be found beneath the grounds of the estate in the mysterious Initiation Well.

It is not one well but actually a pair of wells that drill deep into the earth. ( Rita later took us to the not so well known sister well which not many tourists are aware of. #winning#sometimesguidescanbeawesome ) 

One of the strange stories behind these wells was that they were never used for their supposed purpose: water collection. The clue to the true purpose of these twin wells lies in the design of the well. You have to descend five floors and pass nine platforms to the bottom of the well. These nine platforms were created to actually remind visitors of the nine circles of Dante’s Hell. It is a pretty dark inside the well and feels claustrophobic. Not quite like hell but still, an eerie feel. At the bottom when you’re looking up, besides the hundreds of iPhones and cameras flashing away, you’ll see on the inner walls, the Moorish design & certain Masonic symbols ( You’ll spot the Greek god Dionysus featured throughout the estate, a popular symbol in the Masonic world )

The wells according to Rita where used for several initiation rites, some of a dubious kind. I’ll let your imagination wonder and figure out what these may been.

Lord Byron once called this place “a glorious Eden.”

Portugal’s greatest poet, Luís Vaz de Camões called the Quinta an oasis where “every pool and stream has Nymphs in its waters,”

We didn’t see nymphs but glorious the Quinta is.

We had ate up a lot of time in the Quinta but we had time for one more key highlight before leaving Sintra.

Lawrence Hotel, Sintra

We amble into the town centre. Along the way Rita briefly stops to point out the historic Lawrence Hotel where a certain Ernest Hemingway once stayed.

Our main stop is something of a local institution- Piriquita which for the last 160 years has been satisfying the sweet tooth of locals and visitors alike. Founded by Amaro dos Santos, a baker by trade and his wife Constância Gomes, the couple initially were famous for baking the local pastry Queijada (a cupcake-like, egg and milk pastry) for King Carlos I who used to holiday in the summer in Sintra. Later in the 1940’s, the niece of the couple, Constância Cunha came up the idea of Travesseiro– a pastry stuffed with sweet eggs and with a almond touch.

Travesseiro

We quaff a few of these delicious Travesseiro’s -well earned after walking up and down the winding steep paths of Sintra.

Cabo do Roca,

After Piriquita, Rita drives us out for a brief stop at Cabo do Roca, the westernly most point of Portugal and Western Europe. It is quite an atmospheric place with pretty stiff winds battering you from the wide expanse of the Atlantic. The view point from where you can see the rugged dramatic coastline is beautiful but with the baggage of hundreds of tourists all keen to take the same photo as you. After an obligatory ‘ I was here’ photo or two, we quickly clamber into Rita’s vehicle.

The journey back via the scenic coastal town of Cascais is pleasant. Rita was great company and besides sharing tips of cool places to eat and drink in Lisbon, we talked a lot about life, food and travel. At the end, she felt less a guide and more a friend that I hope we will meet again in the near future. To summarise, it was a beautiful day spent in lovely company and also visiting a pretty wondrous place.

Sintra.

No longer a figment of my imagination but still a place that lives on in my thoughts and dreams.