The year is 2012. June.

I had just quit my full time job to become a nomad.

I would have forgotten my nomad anniversary but the onset of the Euros have brought back a flood of memories. Then, the fixtures gods threw up Denmark Vs Germany.

Again. 

My thoughts turned towards that fateful summer.

I had got rid of all my earthly possessions and packed my life into a backpack to start my 2 month interrail trip across Europe. I remember checking into the Generator Copenhagen on a cloudy muggy day in June, looking out onto a sea of spires, that eclectic range of architecture and feeling a surge of excitement. I remember just going for an aimless wonder, catching sunset at Nyhavn, the harbour area before heading into town to watch the inaugural Euro 2012 game between Denmark and Germany with my friend Alex Berger.

My iPhone 4 photo of that sunset at Nyhavn, the 17th century waterfront of Copenhagen

Euro 2012 Fanzone park. Glorious scenes as Denmark win against Germany.

I can still remember it. The chaos and excitement after Denmark’s unexpected win over Germany. The countless beers that followed after. 4am. Sitting at the bus stop wasted with friends. I sometime wish I could bottle that excitement and anticipation. Looking back at the pictures of Copenhagen from that summer, I can still feel a bit of the old excitement  and energy coming back. Travel gives you that buzz, that glorious anticipation of the unknown, the luxury where pretty much anything could happen. There was a rough itinerary but no big plan, other than to visit a few hostels which would form the basis of my first ever book, The Luxury Hostels of Europe.

Travel is a wonderful drug, the best one. Even after all these years of travel, I love the act of travel. Packing the backpack. Checking in for the flight online or checking the train reservation, planning the trip to train station. Stocking up on travel snacks. Reading up a little about the place and making notes on my phone. With every beloved ritual, comes a set of rituals, each, cherished that all form to become one wonderful act of escape, of self care and love. 

I miss travelling that way. It might come as a surprise to you but I can’t remember the last time I had a proper holiday. Now, you might think, you are the guy who constantly travels the world for a living. True, but there is a difference between travelling for pleasure and travelling for work. I chose to make travel my lifestyle, my work so my confession might sound a bit rich to you. Don’t get me wrong. I wake up everyday, happy. Still, when you build your life , business around travel and have no home base and have to plan your movements 6/12 months in advance, you miss those moment of spontaneity, that thrill of the unknown. We try to build in some time for downtime but the last few years have been a bit of slog, working as much as we can to pay off all the debts, build up our bank balance after the barren years of the pandemic. Now, as the pandemic disappears in the rear view and we can again look forward to a life of rich possibilities, I am dreaming of escape. Of wondering aimlessly till sunset. Wasted at 4am in a new city with friends. Who can relate?

I also seem to have the inability to know how to switch off and relax. If I decide to take the day off. I’ll charge the kindle up to read a book while enjoying a coffee. I will probably have patience to read though a few pages before I either feel tired or I go back to the bad habit of just mindlessly browsing my social media feeds before I take the dreaded decision of checking my emails! What kind of an idiot does that on their ‘day off’? Maybe, it is a habit I have picked up from being self employed. I find long walks to be one thing I can do on my days off.

I do find that being with friends, gives me the permission to switch off. I lied a little earlier.  I actually did have somewhat of a holiday last year in Greece, when our good friend from Berlin, Pascal visited us when we were in Athens. As a first time visitor to the mainland, he was keen to hire a car and explore, so we suggested a roadtrip to the Peloponnese. 

It was a magical few days. The weather was perfect.  The landscape was rugged, wild and overgrown. There was a wonderful sense of isolation about all the places we visited.  I loved Napflio, the old Venetian outpost with its beautiful fortress sitting in the azure blue Argonic Gulf, its narrow cobblestone cafes with a magnificent backdrop of mountain scenery. When the daytrippers left town, I would wallow in the silence of centuries and just look in awe at the fortress, glowering in the dark. There’s this slight sense of decay in parts, which just makes Napflio even more haunting.

Later, we visited the stunning hilltop fortress of Larissa. It was close to sunset and the abandoned fortress, overgrown with wild flowers and weeds had this almost magical, ethereal glow. That broad expansive view of the surrounding towns and the Argolic plains will long remain in memory. We visited a few wineries and drank lots of good wine. The days were infinite, unplanned and had a sense of real adventure that sometimes I feel is missing in my work and travels. In keeping with the unplanned, offbeat theme of the trip, I lugged around with me an analogue Olympus OM 10 camera to document the trip. It had been probably 20 years since I touched an analogue camera. 

When the pictures came out, phew a lot of happy and old emotions came back. Here’s a selection…

I think, many of us are in this nostalgic frame of mind, often longing for a simpler way of life which involved less tech, less being ‘on’ and being in the moment. Or, maybe this is all just a way of us trying to reconnect with an older version of ourselves. 

Life comes full circle. Another summer. Denmark vs Germany. Denmark wins again? Another chance to rewrite the script. Another chance to write a new story. Create some good memories and pause, remember the older version of yourself. Nostalgic but happy, still optimistic and excited for what lies ahead.

While some prefer the road less travelled, I tend to find that with age, I return to the roads well travelled. Every time I go back to a place filled with good memories, even though the places may have stayed the same, I find that I have changed, so the memory is always renewed and refreshed. I am always discovering something new. The best places exist in many layers like an unfurling onion that has a habit of slowly unravelling, revealing it’s various layers over time. Leipzig is one of those cities which keeps on peeling back its layers of history, revealing stories at every twist and turn. Like an invisible vortex, it keeps pulling me back for more. It wasn’t love at first sight. I first came in 2013 and hated it. I didn’t warm to the dreary soviet style architecture and plattenbau, prefab concrete buildings, a hangover from the GDR era. However, on a subsequent visit, many years later, I found myself in the more grungier and alternative district of Plagwitz and just fell in love with the area, the vibe and found the keys to the city.  I’ve also grown rather fond of the grim soviet style architecture in a weird, nostalgic kind of way. 

The street that I keep coming back to and falling in love with, every time is Karl Heine Strasse or KHS as locals call it. If I could afford it, I would live there in a heartbeat. It has become less gritty but there is that whiff of decadence, an edge and enough imperfections that still makes my pulse race. It does remind me of the reason I fell in love with Berlin all those years ago. However, lets be clear, Leipzig is not the new Berlin and is just Leipzig. No hype or more famous doppelgängers required. 

To give some context, Karl Heine is located in the former industrial neighbourhood of Plagwitz, in the city’s west. Originally a small village, which was heavily industrialized in the mid-1850s by the solicitor Karl Heine, post reunification, Plagwitz became the bohemian district of the city and home to lots of artists. It used to be a pretty run down area with lots of semi-derelict buildings with artists squatting in them and a handful of cafes but now the street has cleaned up nicely.

I always base myself around the corner of Karl Heine Strasse in a hostel called Multitude. Technically located in the equally hip neighbouring district of Lindenau but just a 10 minute walk from the beginning of Karl Heine, this is a really homely hostel with lots of light, beds with the perfect mattress for a great night’s sleep, a very spacious self catering kitchen, a good outdoor terrace for relaxing and a great onsite bar with fireplace, which attracts a nice mix of locals. It is one of those hostel that feels instantly like home which is the same way I feel about the city. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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So. Let me rewind to the most recent trip, just a few weeks back. After a quick shop for groceries at the Rewe supermarket next door to the hostel, we dust off the cameras and head off for THE walk. The weather had turned colder that day but after a few days of constant drizzle, the skies were baby blue and the pale sunlight was filtering through the rust rouge leaves, giving off an ethereal glow. The large willow trees arched over our heads in perfect symmetry as we entered Karl Heine, just like the opening pages of a fairytale. It was just pass noon and already a throng of locals were huddled around the tables of some of the cafes.

There is an enormous choice of places to eat in Karl Heine Strasse, so if you are a foodie, this is the street to visit.

It is the perfect day for a hearty bowl of soup and I know just the place – a Moroccan eatery called Salon Casablanca. Lovely well-priced food, lots of vegetarian options, good portion sizes and refreshing mint tea, I love coming here to try their tagines and soups. 

Next stop is Beard Brothers and Sisters, a vintage hole in the wall bar that serves the most scrumptious hot dogs and drinks. I have always wanted to come here in the past based on positive reviews from friends and happily they did not disappoint. Great dog, perfect bun, good range of toppings and sauces, plus if you come in the evening, they have local musicians performing in a small balcony above the bar. The food and the fun does not stop there.

We next visit  Westwerk, a former factory complex that has become the heart of the local creative scene with ateliers for artists, musicians and also home to a wide variety of affordable places to eat

I try Georgian food for the first time at Kleiner Kaukasus and it was so good. Owner Malkhazi prepares the Khachapuri in front of us – warm, soft flatbreads stuffed with molten cheese with a delicious topping of beetroot and cream.This was heavenly, melt in your mouth kind of food. Later in the trip we also popped into the next door Vietnamese diner, Bamboo’s Streetfood where on plastic tools you can sup on a bowl of Pho besides other specialities. Not the best pho but still, a very solid 8 out of 10 option if you are craving Asian flavours. I also have to mention Naumann’s Gaststube. Part of the Felsenkeller, a former ballroom turned live music and arts venue, it is worth visiting just to enjoy the grand interiors of this former neo-baroque building that dates back to 1890. Naumann’s Gaststube serves honest, working class people’s grub and I would highly recommend their schnitzel.

Westwerk is no longer a secret but still retains its creative, hippy vibe with a diverse mix of second-hand shops, artists‘ studios, yoga and tattoo studios, culinary venues such as Kleiner Kaukasus but also large billiard halls like the uber cool Mensa on the top floor. My favourite shop in the complex is Westfach where you find all kinds of beautiful things, from postcards and prints, ceramics, jewellery from local artists plus a great selection of vinyl and vintage items.

Opposite Westwerk, another local landmark I like to checkout for drinks, food and entertainment is the Schaubuhne Lindelfels. Housed in a magnificent Art Nouveau villa straight out of Paris, this functions as a bar by night, (order the house Gin and Tonic) cinema but also acts as a theatre and festival venue. On one of the nights, we were privileged to catch one of the acts at the annual Leipziger Jazz Festival. Sitting there in this 140 year old ballroom really is a magical experience. 

No trip to Karl Heine is complete without a traditional visit to one of the classic Photoautomats. The booth is one of the craziest I’ve ever seen, plastered with stickers, posters and graffiti. The photos are never great here but it is an experience sitting in that booth, a time travel machine of some sort and a connection to previous, younger naive versions of myself.

There are a few great bars on the street to checkout but if you visit just one bar, go to Noch Besser Leben, which means something like ‘Even better Living’. Such a great name for a pub and a sentiment to represent. It’s a favourite for local artists, musicians and students, actually anyone. It has that laidback rough around the edges charm, but is pretty friendly and a great place to meet locals.

At the end of Karl Heine Strasse there is a turning onto the Karl Heine canal path. Stretching for 3.3 kilometres, this is a beautiful walk, anytime of the year. In Autumn, it is especially magical with all the colours and the reflections in the water. Lined with historic villas to modern industrial lofts, the canal is also a great timeline of the city, another form of time travel where you walk from the past, straight into the future.

There are no doubt plenty more memorable places to visit in Leipzig and I’m sure with years to come, I’ll find something new and magical about Karl Heine Strasse. While we travel the four corners to see the world, in some people, places and streets we see the world and that is the magic of Leipzig and KHS for me. 

Disclaimer: My trip to Leipzig was made possible thanks to the kind support of Leipzig Tourismus but all the opinions, good and bad, are entirely mine. Thanks for reading and your continued support.

1. Bunna Cafe, Gozo

Address: 38A Triq ir-Repubblika, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

Restaurateur Philip Spiteri’s go to place for coffee, Bunna Cafe is one of Malta’s best cafes. The coffee is wonderful as well as their food. What elevates this cafe to something special are the two ladies who run- they make a point to welcome everyone as if they were welcoming you to their home. Great hospitality, yummy sandwiches, croissants and toasts.

2. Gleneagles Bar, Gozo

Address: 10, Triq Il-Vittorja Gozo GSM 2400, Malta

Run by brothers Tony and Sammy for 5 decades, Gleneagles Bar is a Gozitan Institution . Like all great bars, it is a meeting point for locals, a hideout,  a real piece of local history.  The brothers are full of stories and you feel a real connection to the island’s history when you visit this pub. Plus, the broad sweeping view of Mgarr harbour from the balcony of the bar is amazing – you can spend hours watching people come and go. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Amazing fresh salads at Mojos is one of many delicious items on the menu

3. Mojo’s

Address: Triq Fortunato Mizzi, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

Probably the best lunch spot in Gozo, Mojo’s has a fabulous menu serving fresh fruit juices, epic salads, their Gozitan burger is the stuff of legends as are their sweet chill cheddar fries. Claire, the owner is a legend too and had so many nice tips to share of her island.

Everything on the menu at Ta’ Philip is great but I loved the octopus

4. Ta’ Philip

Address: Triq Sant’ Antnin Ghajnsielem, Mġarr, Malta

Run by the affable and talented restuarnteur, Philip Spiteri, Ta Philip is the place to go to in Gozo where you can enjoy traditional Gozitan dishes slow cooked in a wood burning oven. Great selection of wines too.

5. Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s

Address: Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road,, Xewkija XWK 9014, Malta

A great place for a nice coffee or a glass of wine, ( they have an incredible wine cellar ) Vini e Capricci in Xewkija is another high quality but value for money place to eat in Gozo. On the lunch menu they have fire grilled panini starting at just €9.50 plus delicious soups and salads. ( wild fennel salad is amazing ) Signature dishes include the Risotto al Guanciale ( €10.75) and Rabbit Ravioli ( €14.75)

Delicious ftira at Ta’ Saminu Bakery

6. Ta’ Saminu Bakery

Address: Triq Tal-Ħamrija, Xewkija, Malta

A family-run bakery that goes back generations, Ta’ Saminu Bakery is one of the last few traditional bakeries on the island. They specialise in Gozitan style ftira, qassatat with unique fillings, biscuits and local breads which are prepared in their wood burning oven. There is always queue of locals snaking out of the bakery, always a reassuring sign.

7. Sphinx Pastizzeria

Various outlets in Gozo and Malta

If you ask any Maltese local about their favourite local dish, it is likely they will mention Pastizzi ( sounds like past-it-si) to you. 

You walk in any direction in Gozo or Malta and you will bump into a Pastizzeria. 

The classic pastizzi is in two forms, with ricotta cheese and my favourite, mashed peas.

Chef, Stephen La Rosa’s go to place is Sphinx Pastizzeria and their pastizzi is fantastic. Beyond the classics they have some adventurous flavours including their brand new truffle pastizzi.

Sabrina trying the delicious ravioli at Cafe Jubilee, Gozo

8. Café Jubilee

Address: Pjazza l-Indipendenza, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

I finish with one of my favourite places to eat in Gozo, Café Jubilee which became an instant hit with locals in Victoria since its opening in 1998 and following its success, a restaurant in Valletta followed two years later.

For a mere €2.50 you can get one of their excellent cheese and tomato toasted sandwiches.Their signature Nanna’s Ravioli dish is just €10.95 and they are generous with their portions.

The rest of their extensive menu also ranges between these prices, which makes it a perfect place to get bang for your buck. And it’s open from 8 am till about midnight so you really don’t have any excuse not to go.

The bonus? This dimly lit cosy café is full of quirky décor (think tables and chair glued to the ceiling) which makes it perfect for a romantic meal with loved ones or friends.

Further reading

Discovering Malta with locals, no smartphone or guidebook required

Cheap eats guide to Malta

Things to do in Malta and Gozo

Disclaimer: The trip to Malta and Gozo was possible thanks to the kind support of Visit Malta and partners. However, all the opinions expressed here, good and bad are entirely my own.

Rigoletto ( from summer of 2021 and 2019 )

The perfect time to visit Bregenz is during their famed summer Bregenz Festival, where superlative operatic performances take place on a floating lakeside stage. Even though we missed the festival, we had the chance to see the spectacular floating lakeside stage.In 2023, Giacomo Puccini’s Madame Butterfly will be performed on the lake stage on a total of 25 evenings. 

1. Captain for a day- Explore Lake Constance on a motor boat

If the weather is nice, then I would highly recommend renting one of the boat from the gondola harbour, between the Fischersteg and the Festspielhaus. It is a tad expensive but a brilliant way to get a nice perspective of the Bregenz skyline and the Pfander mountain towering in the background. You have the choice of renting electric, pedal and motor boats from the boat rental company Feurstein. The best and most fun option in my  opinion is to choose the motor boats which are equipped with a 6 hp outboard engine and can be driven without a skipper’s license. All information and frequently asked questions can be found on their website. The boat rental is open daily from April to October, weather permitting, until sunset. In rainy weather, the boat rental remains close.

2. Alternative: Hire a bike

If time permits, another great way to explore Lake Constance is to of course explore the 270 km circumference via the challenging and impressive “Bodensee Rundwanderweg” ( Celebrates 40 years in existence this year!) , or Lake Constance Trail. It is possible to circumnavigate the entire lake in chunks, ( Lindau is just 36 km away) roughly four to seven stages by bike. The trail is of medium difficulty with an ascent and descent of just about 400 metres each.  Another option is of course to hop on one of the boats  operated by Vorarlberg Lines that will take you across the Lake and then back to Bregenz or drop you off at other points of the lake.

3. Hop on the Pfänderbahn cable car

If you have a short stopover in Bregenz like us, do make time to go to the top of the Pfänder mountain -offering stunning views of the city,  Lake Constance and over 240 Alpine peaks of Austria, Germany and Switzerland combined, it really is some view. To enjoy the view, hop onto the Pfänderbahn cable car (Tickets for a return ride is €13.60 for adults, €6.80 for kids – 6-15 years- and €27.20 for a family ticket) On the top there is a panoramic restaurant from where you can enjoy the views while supping on a cold beer.

Kunsthaus Bregenz

4. Bregenz Culture Mile- Say hello to Kunsthaus Bregenz

Also recommend a wee meander along the Bregenz culture mile which has an incredible mix of old and new architecture. The walk should include a visit to the uber-modern KUB  aka Kunsthaus Bregenz museum for contemporary art.( Standard adult tickets costs €11, concessions €9. Combined ticket to KUB and vorarlberg museum is €17, €12 for under 25’s). A rota of revolving exhibitions means that there is always something new to see here. Illustrious exhibitions that have been hosted here in the past include those of Warhol, Weiwei and Antony Gormley.

vorarlberg museum Bregenz

5. Vorarlberg Museum

The vorarlberg museum, ( Regular tickets €9, Concessions €7 ) another stunning modern building, is the repository of the state’s art and cultural treasures. The collections here dig deep into the realms of archeology, folklore, art history and much more.

Where to eat in Bregenz

Lunch: Pier 69

The lakeside setting of Pier 69 is unbeatable, service is fab plus the food is a nice mix of modern European fare with dishes ranging from seafood paella to potato gnocchi with basil pesto. Their set lunch menu offer incredible value.

Lunch at Kunstler Cafe

Right on the Kornmarktplatz, next to the Kunstahaus is the Kunstler Cafe which came recommended to us by one of the ladies at the weekly farmers market. There is a very laidback atmosphere at the cafe with a nice mix of friendly locals who were great to chat to and filled with great suggestions of what to do in the area. As the name suggests, the cafe also doubles up as a platform for local artists who can display their work for free. The art being, using art too stimulate conversation between guests at the cafe. In the past, the cafe has hosted exhibitions with various wild themes ranging from shoe throwing at ex-president George W. Bush” when 100 pairs of shoes dangled from the coffee house ceiling aimed at a  picture of the former president. 

There is nice selection of food, from sandwiches to cold cuts of meat and cheese alongside a drinks menu. The coffee is sourced from a local coffee roasting company Kaffeebohne in Dornbirn. The owner froze the price of an espresso at €1.90 five years ago, determined to offer his guests fair and consistent prices with quality.

Sample Vorarlberg cheese at Fredi’s Kaselade

One of the highlights of any trip to Voralberg is trying the rich variety of cheese specilities the region is famous for. 60% of milk produced in Vorarlberg is used to make cheese specialities. Centuries of craftsmanship and modern production combine to create Vorarlberg cheese’s unique character. Examples of great local cheeses you should sample include the Alp Cheese, Mountain Cheese, Cream Cheese and Sura Kees which are all made from goat’s or sheep’s milk.

A great place to bite into Vorarlberg cheese culture in Bregenz is Fredis Kaselade.

Try the Obstkuchen at Theater Cafe

This cafe came recommended from patrons of the Kunstler Cafe. It is a very stylish and cozy cafe located in historical centre of Bregenz, like the Kunstler on the Kornmarktplatz. Service was fantastic and besides good coffee, hot chocolate they are know for their cakes-try their poppy seed strudel or excellent freshly baked tarts like ‘Obstkuchen’ – apple tart.

Further resources

Checkout my new guide to the best things to do in Feldkirch, my earlier guide of the best things to do in Vorarlberg and also my story of Vorarberg’s mesmerising architectural heritage.

Disclaimer

I was invited to the Bregenz and Vorarlberg by the Vorarlberg Tourism Board . As always, all opinions ( bad and good)  expressed here are my own.

Huge thank you to Katharina Fa, Katrin Preuss and the Vorarlberg Tourism Board team for showing us your beautiful home and making our time there memorable. 

Feldkirch marks the westernmost point of Austria, right on the border of Switzerland and Liechtenstein. It is your archetype postcard pretty Austrian town with a well preserved old town that has remained unchanged for centuries, crowned by the glorious Schattenberg Castle and the Gothic-style cathedral of St. Nikolaus.

It is a city that you can easily visit in a day thanks to its very pedestrian friendly centre packed with numerous cafes, restaurants and bars. It also is a perfect base to explore Vorarlberg- Feldkirch railway station lies on the main railway line through the state with regular inter-city services to Zurich and Vienna. Whether you wish to spend a few hours or longer, to help you make the most of your trip, I’ve created a guide to some of the best things to do in Feldkirch, based around local tips I received on my recent trip to the city.

Unusual facts about Feldkirch

The city has a special connection to the Irish writer James Joyce. The unusual connection starts around 1915, when Joyce was mistaken for a spy at the border check in Feldkirch. With the help of friends with connections, Joyce gets released but the incident left its mark on Joyce and subsequently, influenced his most important work, Finnegans Wake. Joyce returned to Feldkirch in the summer of 1932 with the help of publisher couple Maria and Eugene Jolas. Joyce stayed for several weeks at the Hotel Löwen where he wrote Finnegans Wake.

Best things to do in Feldkirch

1. Cool architecture- Montforthaus Feldkirch

If you’re an architecture nerd, you will love Vorarlberg and especially the Montforthaus in Feldkirch. Standing on the edge of the town and looming under the watchful gaze of the Schattenburg castle lies the Montforthaus with its beautiful rounded facades. Built in 2015 on the former location of a congress centre from the 1970s, this modern new building designed by the Berlin architects Hascher Jehle and the Vorarlberg architect Mitiska/Wäger Architekten replaced an architectural dinosaur that had become stylistically and functionally outdated. It is a stunning building that really integrates well with its medieval surroundings thanks to the large glass front.

The Montforthaus is open during the day, a tour or a visit to the restaurant with roof terrace is always possible and worthwhile. In the evening there are many events on the programme.

2. Climb to the top -Schattenburg Castle and Museum

To get a nice aerial perspective of the city, we climbed up to the medieval Schattenburg castle, the once upon a time residence of the Duke of Montfort. Housing a restaurant, the castle also features a museum. Spread across 18 rooms, each room focussing on a different side to the city’s history. The museum ticket also gives guests access to the castle chapel and to the keep. The best part is the panoramic view of the city from the rooftop gallery.

3. Feldkirch Old Town

We arrived late in the evening, dropped our bags and spent a good hour roaming the medieval heart of the city with its winding , cobblestone streets and beautifully preserved period buildings. It was late in the evening on a Sunday so we had the whole place to ourselves and it was the perfect start to the trip. The main heart of the Old Town is Marktgasse where the twice weekly market takes place and also the annual Christmas market.

4. Wildpark Feldkirch

If you are visiting with family and young ones, the local Wildpark ( € Free to enter ) with several marked forest trails is a perfect start to the day. There are over 140 animals located in the park within large enclosures. The park also features a huge adventure playground for the wee ones plus there is a kiosk onsite selling various drinks and food.

5. Buddhist Monastery Letzehof

One of the more unusual and cool things to do in Feldkrich is to pay a visit to the Buddhist monastery on the outskirts of the town. It is a good hour hike but once you reach the monastery, it really feels a world away from the city with the Tibetan payer flags fluttering in the wind and the glorious dome of the Buddhist stupa glistening in the sunshine. The Letzehof or ‘Getznerhof’, as it was also called at that time was a farm till the estate became a refuge for monks from Tibet in 1982. Tibetan monk Gesche Rabten Rinpoche founded the monastery and study centre and a year later the Dalai Lama visited. 

6.Paspels Badesee

We visited Paspels Badesee on the recommendation of a local and wow, this lake was stunning. We timed our visit perfectly before sunset. It was an early Autumn evening and the weather was still warm and there was gaggle of locals bathing in the lake. Beside a large sunbathing area on the banks there’s a wee biergarten- the Seeblick-Stüble, which serves a range of hot and cold snacks plus beer on draft. Sunset was perfect, so if the weather is nice, come in the evening and don’t forget your bathing costume. Public toilets are also available.

Where to eat in Feldkirch

7. Lunch at La Bottega del Gusto

Tucked away in the heart of the old town is a little slice of Italian heaven. The owner and chef Nico is a man of few words and there is no set menu here. The menu is simple with a few suggestions -everything we tasted here was delicious. For €9.95 for 2 courses including a glass of wine, this is a cracking bargain.

8. Coffee at Backerei Mangold

Feldkirch is blessed with a bunch of independent cafes and bakeries but we really liked Backerei Mangold, a home grown family run chain of bakeries in 30 locations across Vorarlberg, dating back to 1850. Their bread has won numerous awards and they serve great pastries, cakes plus good coffee. Definitely worth a visit.

9. Dinner at Restaurant Kantine

If you are a sucker for stone baked thin Napolitan style pizza you will love Kantine- best pizza in the area.The appetisers are really good, especially the grilled Cauliflower in the oven-very tasty. 

Where to stay in Feldkirch

10. Night Inn Feldkirch

Conveniently located next to the train station, the Night Inn Hotel is a modern, comfortable option with stylish rooms ( some with views onto the train station where you can sit by the window and see the trains come and go, if that’s your kind of jam ) and also a very decent buffet breakfast. Staff are a mixed bag-some friendly and some bit cold, impersonal but that could be the language barrier.

Getting there and away to Feldkirch

The nearest airport to Feldkirch is Zürich while Stuttgart is an option too. Swiss Railways (SBB/CFF/FFS) operates a train from Zürich HB to Feldkirch hourly. Tickets start from €44 and the journey takes 1h 29m. Alternatively, FlixBus operates a bus from Flughafen/Messe to Bregenz bus station twice daily.

Further resources

Checkout my earlier guide of the best things to do in Vorarlberg and also my story of Vorarberg’s mesmerising architectural heritage.

Disclaimer

I was invited to the Feldkirch by the Vorarlberg Tourism Board . As always, all opinions ( bad and good)  expressed here are my own.

Huge thank you to Katharina Fa, Katrin Preuss and the Vorarlberg Tourism Board team for showing us your beautiful home and making our time there memorable. 

With the help of my hostel owners friends in Amsterdam and also using my 20 years experience of visiting the city, I have pulled together this locals guide to Amsterdam. I hope you find it useful. Amsterdam. The city of photogenic, instagrammable geometric canals, narrow gabled houses squashed next to one another, elbow to elbow and reaching high to the sky. City dwellers getting out and about on bicycles. Snow falling on the frozen canals in winter. Leaves scattered on the ground- forming rust-coloured patterns, while navigating the city in the crisp, clean air of Autumn- the neon signs of the red light district, the heady smoke from the coffee shops- this is what Amsterdam embodies to me.

The heart of the historic city is to be found in and around the medieval and colonial canals, in the oldest part of the city containing the famous red light district- De Wallen, and in the old Jewish quarter of Waterlooplein. However, scratch beneath the surface and Amsterdam will share new surprises with you. 

History and Development of Amsterdam

The name Amsterdam originates from the fact that the twelfth century fishing village was founded on the River Amstel where a dam was constructed. In the Dutch Golden Age, Amsterdam rose to the heights of his prosperity as an important trading port. 

Today it is an important financial centre and distributor of diamonds. The currency used is the Euro. The native language of the Netherlands is Dutch although most people speak English fluently.

The best way to get around Amsterdam

There seems to be a clear consensus on this point when you ask locals in Amsterdam- the best way to get around Amsterdam is by using the local trams or walking. 

Even better, do as the locals and rent a bike. It’s definitely the best way to get around the incredibly flat city. Amsterdam has a dedicated system of biking paths, looping in and out of the most crowded sections of the urban landscape. Many hostels have the option of renting bikes. Its quick, convenient and gives you a chance to work off those stroopwaffels! The cost of a bike rental comes in at around the €10 mark for a day of limitless exploration.

There is also a very extensive network of tram routes, making it one of the most popular modes of public transportation.

The metro, tram, ferry and bus routes are operated by the GVB- the public transportation company. The GVB day or multi-day ticket provides you with unlimited travel on all GVB routes at all times.

When to visit Amsterdam

The tourist driven summer peak season extends from May to September. Your best bet would be to travel in April or late September to November, when the crowds are less and the prices not so debilitating. If you wish to visit during tulip season, which spreads from mid March to the end of May, the middle of April is your best bet.

Van Gogh Museum is a must visit when in Amsterdam

Top things to do in Amsterdam

1.  Visit the tulip fields of the Keukenhof near Lisse in April and see the beautiful flowers at the peak of their beauty. Row upon neat row of variegated colour will assail you- like a rainbow strewn across the earth. If the Spring is particularly cold then it might be a good idea to time your visit later into May. Visit the gardens during the weekdays to avoid traffic congestion.

2.  Visit Vondelpark–  a beauty in all seasons. If possible attend a free concert in the open air theatre, held between May and early September.

3)  Visit the Rijksmuseum–  a treasure trove of Dutch artistic history laying claim to masterworks by Rembrandt and Vermeer. 

4)  Visit the Anne Frank House Museum – a surreal reminder of the atrocities committed during the Second World War and the strength of the human effort of self-preservation. Here in a tiny cramped secret annexe, Anne Frank and her family were in hiding for 25 months before being discovered. It is a sad part of Amsterdam’s history and a raw and emotional encounter. If you visit the house cum museum you can learn about the conditions that the inmates of the house lived in.

5).  If you’re out to do a spot of shopping but want to stick to a budget then browsing the Waterloopein Flea Market is a great option. The stalls are stacked high with all sorts of bric-a brac and historical relics from the past. The flea market dates back to 1880 when the street was a point of selling goods amongst Jewish traders.

Tip: Amsterdam City Pass

There are three Amsterdam City Passes of mention. They include the ‘I Amsterdam City Pass’, ‘Amsterdam Holland Pass’ and ‘Amsterdam City Pass’. Each of them offers different discounts that are variously time limited. It is better to study these passes individually and check which one suits your itinerary the best. Mostly these passes are beneficial if you would like to combine entry to the main museums with hefty entry fees with access to free rides on public transport.

Where to eat in Amsterdam

Dutch food is not all about stroopwafels and bitterballens, although admittedly these are the local foods I sample again and again when I visit the city. If feeling particularly brave do visit the abundant raw herring carts (haringhandels). If you simply can’t stomach the smell, don’t worry- ‘kibbeling’ are bite-sized pieces of battered, deep-fried-fishy deliciousness and are available at said carts too.

Amsterdam is a truly cosmopolitan city. Expect to be treated to a wide variety of international cuisine here. ‘Bazar’ is a converted church that now serves nothing else than Middle Eastern food! For good Spanish tapas hop along to ‘La Pata Negra’ or if in the mood for ramen visit ‘Fou Fow Ramen’. Soenda Kelapa on the Utrechtse Straat – an Indonesian Restaurant, or ‘Taco Cartel’ for Mexican tacos are eclectic options too.

However, if you’ve come to Amsterdam eager to sample local fare- make your way to Geflipt for Dutch-style burgers. Café Kale, Café Oosterling or Bar Fisk is the place for a taste of the local Dutch pub scene.

If you’re looking for some good food, eaten in an off-beat, beautiful location, head over to the waterfront.

‘Far from the madding crowds in central Amsterdam, Hotel de Goudfazant is nestled amongst some old industrial buildings on the IJ waterfront in Amsterdam Noord. The menu is seasonal and great value, especially considering the quality of what comes out the kitchen.’

Anna Hafsteinsson, Clink Hostels

Also checkout my guide to the best cheap eats in Amsterdam .

Where to drink and party in Amsterdam

The Dutch are famous all over the world for their very liberal take on drugs that have restricted use in other parts of the world. It is not, therefore, surprising that the cannabis coffee shops (and also the red-light district) attract millions of international visitors annually. Amsterdam is a playground fo those looking to have a good time. There are bars and parties of every different kind and every flavour.

Some recommended names of bars and clubs in the ‘Dam include Marktkantine, Pacific, Leidseplein, Paradiso and Rembrandtplain.

Sitting on the banks of the IJ river, Pllek is a trendy industrial hangout constructed using old shipping containers. With its own man-made beach, live music and plenty of other events, it’s a great place to grab a cocktail or enjoy some alfresco beers when the sun is shining.Another recommendation is Pacific Parc for a great day to night venue. Grab a spot on the large sunny terrace from lunchtime and then, come night-time, head inside and groove till the early hours to an eclectic mix of DJs and live music. 

I like to go for a walk…

Amsterdam has its fair share of green, open spaces in the city. Vondelpark is undoubtedly the largest and the best known. There are many more smaller parks serving as places of recreation to city dwellers and they consist of Beatrixpark, Sarphatipark, Oosterpark, Park Frankendael, Rembrandtpark, Westerpark, Flevopark, Amstel Park, Wertheimerpark and Sloterpark– to name a few.

Westerpark is a smaller urban park to the west of the city. The park is the perfect blend of greenery and impressive architecture. The converted Westergasfabriek gasworks hosts a number of events including exhibitions, markets, festivals, indie shops, an art-house cinema, a brewery and dance club.

Noorderpark is a green oasis in the heart of Amsterdam’s Noord district. With plenty of trees and green areas, it’s a great place to stroll around and escape the hustle and bustle of central Amsterdam.

The best places to relax in Amsterdam

Amsterdam is the city of canals and serene waterways. What better way to relax, than to take in the city’s architectural glory from the water?

“There’s something about cruising along the city’s pretty waterways that is very calming. We love Pure Boats whose cosy vessels offer a welcome change from the big tourist boats.”

Anna Hafsteinsson, Clink Hostels

Perhaps some floral-therapy might be considered a good way to inspire inner calm? A trip to Amsterdam in the Spring would be incomplete without visiting the tulip fields of the Keukenhof near Lisse in April and seeing the beautiful flowers at the height of their beauty. Row upon neat row of variegated colour will assail you- like a rainbow strewn across the earth. If the Spring is particularly cold, then it might be a good idea to time your visit later into May to see peak blooms. Visiting the gardens during the weekdays enables you to avoid traffic congestion.

Vondelpark is a beauty in all seasons. If possible attend a free concert in the open air theatre, held between May and early September. Listening to music in the lap of beautiful nature is a great way to bring on that feeling of zen.

The best viewpoint in Amsterdam

By common consensus one of the best views in Amsterdam happens to be A’dam Toren or A’dam Tower, which is just around the corner from ClinkNOORD. It has a great bar, where you can sip on cocktails and admire the panoramic views to take in the sights and sounds of Amsterdam. For those who are not faint of heart, the ‘Over The Edge’ Swing will provide you with more than an adequate adrenaline rush.

The Noorderlicht is another great spot for views over the river IJ from Amsterdam Noord. You can sit here for a couple of hours and watch the world go by.

The Doubletree Hotel Skylounge,  the Nemo Panorama Terrace are also great options for catching bird’s-eye views of the city. The Westerkirk Tower is the highest church in Amsterdam. If you’re looking for a wee workout on a summer’s evening, climb up this iconic church tower and feast your eyes upon the Jordaan district below.

My secret place

Shhhh! Here’s a secret place only the locals and best informed people know about.

Blijburg is a beachside cultural spot just outside the city where Amsterdammers get together to play, swim, eat, drink and create. With live music and festivals running throughout the year, it’s a great place to feel the sea air and let your hair down! 

Also checkout Haarlem and the dreamy Hello I’m Local Hostel and escape the everyday stress and strain of Amsterdam. Staying here reminded me of what holidays were like. Riding on bikes through the surrounding glorious open countryside. Maybe heading to the nearby beach. Quenching your thirst at some fine countryside pub. Playing board games in the common room. No wifi or TV in the rooms means a relaxed sleep. Beautiful beds as if you were back home. Wake upto the most gorgeous breakfast spread ever-all locally sourced. Then maybe grab a book and chill in their lovely outdoor patio. If you are thirsty enjoy the delicious local Joven beer along with some of their homemade bitterballen. Take a walk to the station and hop over to Amsterdam which is just a 15 minute ride away. Haarlem is ever so pretty though. Devoid of tourists completely. So peaceful.

Welcome to the world’s most local boutique hostel

My other secret spot is another piece of food heaven : there is a small Surinamese takeaway called De Hapjeshoek tucked away in the depths of Waterlooplein Station. Whenever I am in Amsterdam, I always pop in here for their delicious chicken curry sandwich aka ‘Kipfillet Kerrie Broodjes. For €3, this is a bargain.

Where to stay in Amsterdam

I have written a comprehensive guide to the best budget places to stay in Amsterdam and also a 2nd guide to the best cheap hostels in Amsterdam.

Getting there and away

Amsterdam Schipol is extremely well connected to all major airports in the UK. Budget and non budget airlines ply this route including British Airways, easyJet, Flybe, KLM, Jet2 and Vueling.

Amsterdam is also well connected by train and bus- for the best and cheapest ways to visit the city , checkout Omio to give you  a comparison of plane, train or bus from key nearby cities. ( For example for Amsterdam, look at Paris or London for example)

Where to eat in Riga

1. Mārtiņa Beķereja, Riga’s oldest bakery

Address: Brīvības iela 80

For a tasty breakfast with a difference , head to the oldest bakery in Riga for breakfast, Mārtiņa Beķereja where you can savour local pastries for as little as € 0.50 cents! You will find a wide range of baked goods, ranging from pies and pastries to cakes. I would recommend trying their pastries. Mix it up, with their savoury pizza like Pikanta pastry and then finish off with their excellent sweet cherry Kirsu pastry. Both were delicious and cost just €1.65!

2. Āgenskalns Market 

Address: Nometņu iela 64

Next stop is Āgenskalns Market. Dating back to 1898, it is the largest and oldest market in the city and recently re-opened last year after a massive renovation. On the first floor of the renewed pavilion, you can buy local products from farmers, home producers and traders.

Quince Lemonade

There is a lot to choose from. I tried the Latvian style cottage cheese pancakes aka Biezpiena Placenisi , perfect with sour cream or cherry jam. Then I tried the local speciality- Sidonia aka Quince lemonade. This was fresh and very tasty. Locals describe it as non alcoholic Prosecco!

I finish up with a cup of coffee from Kalve Coffee , one of Latvia’s leading coffee roasters. On the second floor , you will find a food court that showcases some of Latvia’s best local eateries like the popular Ausmena Kebabs from Rezekne and Vīnkalni, probably Riga’s best pizzeria.

3. Riga Central Market

Address: Nēģu iela 7

Make time to visit Riga Central Market , one of biggest central markets and bazaars in Eastern Europe.The market has five pavilions that have been repurposed from the German Zeppelin hangars that date back to the 1920’s. The complex built in the Art Deco and Neoclassical style is a UNESCO World Heritage site, along with Riga Old Town.

You can find all kinds of local delicacies, like smoked fish and meat to pickled veggies, beetroot and local cheeses.

Personal highlights of the market include the Rupnicas Veikals kiosk at the back of the market which serves local beers, Kvass and generous glasses of wine for dirt cheap prices. I recommend trying a few of the maizītes aka Latvian open sandwiches, served on rye bread. Toppings ranged from pickled herrings to eggs with anchovies and smoked salmon. These were so so good and each costing a couple of euros.

My other top tip for the market is Registan, an Uzbekistan cafe and bakery. Everything here looked so good, especially the Uzbek flatbread straight from their tandoor oven. Try the goat curry samsa. 

4. Burzma

Address: Galerija Centrs, 4th floor, Audēju iela 16

Burzma is a new food hall concept in Riga where you can try everything from oven-baked pizza, traditional Latvian pork chops to Ukrainian, Mexican, Georgian & Asian cuisines plus delicious drinks, cocktails from Herbarijs.

Borscs

I tried the delicious Juskaa soup with white garlic bread from Ukrainian restaurant, Borscs. ( €5 ) Other classic dishes you can savour here include grechanka, and pampushka and lesser-known delights like sirnik. Then there is the Boom Cafe buffet where you can sample some a mix of local and international cuisine, prices starting from €2-€3 per dish.

5. Lauvas Nams

Address: Brīvības iela 82

I wanted to visit an ednica, which is the Latvian version of the milk bar but could not make it to one so instead I came to this buffet restaurant , situated across from the local theatre. It is open 24 hours so is very popular with locals, especially after hours when people are hungry after a night out.

The dishes are very affordable and you have a lot of choice. I tried some goulash with mashed potato- was super tasty. The most interesting dish was definitely the cold beet soup aka Aukstā zupa With an unusual, deep pink color, this soup is made with beets, cucumbers, kefir and sometimes a hard-boiled eggs. There is a topping of dill and scallions a dash of vinegar to give that extra tart flavour.

6. Singh’s

Address: Ģertrūdes iela 32

Possibly the best Indian in Riga with a chef and many staff members from India. They will ask you how spicy you want your meal; and they will make things hot!

7. Terra

Address; Blaumana iela 9

Cheap and can easily be made to-go, this place specializes in large salads or a simple carbs + meat hot combo. If you like the food, get yourself a stamp-card for a free meal.

8. Tavs Banh Mi

Address: Ģertrūdes iela 9

Across from the Embassy, this is Riga’s only vendor of traditional banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich). Tavs Banh Mi understands the importance of sriracha sauce which is served with every order. Note that this place closes at 20:00.

Where to find good vegetarian , vegan food in Riga

9. Rama / Stock Pot / Terapija

Lunch at Terapija

Rama (Kr. Barona iela 56 ) is the only completely vegetarian restaurant in Riga as meat (including fish and chicken) do not even enter the premise. This restaurant is attached to the Hare Krishna Centre and charges by weight, after 19:30 prices are reduced.

PS: If you are looking for affordable Asian food, try Stock Pot. ( Ģertrūdes iela 6 ) Lots of tasty vegan and meat options are available and there’s always something interesting to eat here. Another fantastic choice for lunch is the fantastic Vegan restaurant Terapija where you can get a soup + main course ( I had a delicious falafel salad) for as little as €4.70 (12-4pm)

Where to drink in Riga

10. Tallinn Street Quarter

Address: Radošais kvartāls, Tallinas iela,

Another hip, cool emerging spot in Riga is the Tallinn Street Quarter (Tallinas kvartāls), a former ambulance depot that has been revived and now filled with hip bars, street food sellers. In between transformed abandoned buildings there is huge central courtyard hosting many events. In terms of vibe and character, this place reminded me a lot of Kasarna Karlin in Prague and LxFactory in Lisbon.

11. Zefirs

Address: Sporta iela 2, Vidzemes priekšpilsēta

Serving stonebaked pizzas and delicious cocktails in a lively atmosphere ( really good electronic music ) , Zefirs is in the upcoming Skanste neighbourhood of Riga, next to the very hip and cool wine bar, Paisums.

12. Herbarijs

Address: Dzirnavu iela 67

Inside Burzuma you will also find the cool concept bar, Herbarijs where you can try delicious cocktails and drinks. 

I recommend trying the Cascara Lemonade, a caffeinated lemonade with a balsamic citrus taste and also a pleasant grapefruit bitterness.  Plus try the delicious Alica Ingvers, a ginger Lemonade made with Latvian-grown Caucasian plum. 

13. Kanepas Kulturas Centre

Address: Skolas iela 15

This once derelict, 100 year-old building is now a hub for drinks, chat and cultural activities. The centre has a yard which hosts many gatherings on summer nights. Check the Facebook page for details of what’s on: https://www.facebook.com/Zoo.KKc/

14. Valmiermuiza Craft Brewery

Address: Aristida Briāna iela 9a

Enjoy tasty beers snacks, hearty Latvian fare and delicious beers at the Latvian brewery Valmiermuiža. The beer is brewed with great care from the highest quality ingredients. Sample everything from age-old malt beer, shandies and distilled lager. You can follow this up by beers at Labieties and then finish off at Piens.

Disclaimer

I visited Riga as part of a storytelling project focussing on Latvian food culture with Magnetic Latvia (LIAA). While my trip was covered by LIAA, all the opinions expressed here are entirely my own. Paldies to LIAA for bringing me back to Riga-I really hope to return soon.

Salvador Dali

Just like the painter himself, Costa Brava is a somewhat surreal place. Wildly eccentric at times. Yet very accessible. A place where you feel that art is in everything you see, touch or feel. A perfect place to escape – this is a land that was created as a result of someone’s wild fantasy. A world that exists between wonderful extremes : from the rugged wild mountains of the Pyranees to the stunning Costa Brava coastline, where little hidden coves can only be embraced by the azure blue waters of the Mediterranean sea. Costa Brava is a holiday destination which does not have just one face and attribute: it is fluid, interchangeable and always entertains, much like the region’s favourite football team: Barcelona FC. So, whether you love alternating between Greek and Roman ruins and long sandy beaches, experiencing the wild outdoors or simply seeking gastronomic perfection: a holiday in Costa Brava has it all. Here are 7 great reasons and experiences why you should visit Costa Brava.

1. Walk the Camino do Ronda

One of the joys of holidaying in Costa Brava is hiking the Camino do Ronda, a 220km walkway, that stretches from Blanes to the city of Collioure, right before the border of France. While staying in Llafranc a few years ago I was recommend by the hotel staff to try a small section of the walkway from Llafranc to the neighbouring fishing village of Calella de Palafrugell and it was a revelation. Starting from the edge of Llafranc Bay where the walkway starts, I remember huffing and puffing my way up a hill, suddenly surrounded by a beautiful silence and intoxicated by the scent of Aleppo pine trees and salty sea air. A cool breeze drifted in from the sea and my pace slowed down. A few tight knots in my stomach unfurled themselves and soon I was in sight of an impossibly pretty fishing village, Calella de Palafrugell. 

The views of the turquoise blue sea, the fishing boats waiting in the harbour and the ring of white washed cottages is straight out of a Thomas Cook brochure. I wish I had more time to explore the walkway but it was close to lunch and time to retrace my steps back to idyllic Llafranc. 

2. Follow in the footsteps of Dali

Everytime I come to Costa Brava, it’s the feeling that I have left the real world behind and stepped into a fantasy world. This is a place that inspires. It brings out the inner artist in you. It encourages you to be your own person. No one symbolises the magic, the spirit of freedom that Costa Brava symbolises more than the man Salvador Dali himself.  Start your pilgrimage of Dali with a trip to the wonderful Dali Museum in Figueres.

Dali’s mind was pure and unadulterated. He saw the world with a playful eye. My guide at the Dali Museum, Marta shared with me fun facts about Dali like the fact that he would put honey around his mouth and flowers on his moustache to attract flies to them. If you look up at the ceiling of the museum, if you observe carefully, after awhile you realise it looks like the two eyes of flies. Dali’s art reminds you that you can amuse yourself with your imagination and most importantly, nurture a sense of humour. Other works of art in the museum that represent this sense of humour and imagination is the painting of his wife, Gala, looking out of the window.  Completed in 1976, the painting called “Gala Contemplating the Mediterranean Sea” when observed up close, shows a naked Gala looking out the window. However, if observed from a distance the painting appears to be none other than the famous ex-American president Abraham Lincoln. 

Another place where Dali’s spirit is very much alive is the picturesque seaside village of Port Lligat, a place he called home between the years of 1930, till 1982 when his wife died. His house has now been converted into a museum.The Portlligat Museum-House has lovingly preserved the spirit of Dali, leaving the house just the way it would have been when Dali lived there. There is wonderful sense of calm and detachment about Port Lligat and neighbouring Cadaques. The whitewashed narrow maze of Cadaques brimming over with brightly coloured geraniums and bougainvillea, invite you to get lost.

Dali Museum: open all days except Monday 10.30am- 5.45pm – 17 euro entry 

Address: Plaça Gala i Salvador Dalí, 5, 17600 Figueres, Girona, Spain

3. Visit Girona

Girona is an enchanting medieval city. If you like the idea of wandering aimlessly in a maze of cobbled streets and narrow alleyways and picking up wonderful nuggets of history at every turn – then Girona is your city. This is a city to relax and enjoy. You can happily lounge on one of the pavement cafes in the city square and watch the world go by or stroll through the Barri Vell (the Old Quarter), window shopping at one of the designer boutiques housed in the historic arcades.  Wind your way up the steep steps to the Cathedral to be rewarded with views of its stunning Gothic spires and Romanesque towers, beyond this you’ll notice the medieval ramparts. 

Top tip: Check out the single Gothic nave in the Cathedral, at 23m it is the widest in Europe. 

4. Great place for Adventure Sports 

Away from the pristine beaches and idyllic hidden coves, Costa Brava is rapidly emerging as an exciting hub for sports and outdoor activities. Rugged, wild mountain terrains with an excellent network of walking trails are not what people visualize when they think of the Costa Brava. Thanks to new initiatives like Lloret de Mar’s new Nordic Walking Centre, tourists can discover the region’s beautiful coastal paths and nature trails. Nordic Walking is the same as taking a normal daily stroll, but using specially designed poles, aimed at improving muscle, the cardiovascular system, coordination and mobility.

If you’re looking for something to get the pulses racing a bit more there is the small matter of Skydiving at over 12,500 feet above sea level at Empuriabrava: Europe’s biggest skydiving centre which hosts a 1000 jumps a day. I had the ‘pleasure’ of skydiving with a few friends of mine a few years ago and I must admit it’s the craziest and most amazing thing I have ever done in my life. Few words can describe the emotion I felt when the door of the light aircraft slid open and with the aid of my tandem partner, I launched myself into the battering strong wind. As the adrenaline kicked in, I felt a wave of exhilaration sweep through me and then peering through my goggles was the surreal feeling of seeing the fairytale Costa Brava landscape: rugged mountains, sea and beaches, all spread at my feet. Free fall was 60 seconds at 200km/hour ! , a real adrenaline buzz, like flying almost I guess. Then at 4000 feet the parachute was released. I had over 5 minutes, floating gently down and getting more of a chance to soak in the moment. It’s a beautiful sensation, especially if you are blessed with clear skies. You get the most amazing panorama of the Bay of Roses, shimmering in the afternoon sunlight. It’s an experience of a lifetime and one worth having.

Costs: Peak season it costs 207 euros to do tandem parachute jump. For more information check out Skydive Empuriabrava website.

5. Try the famous red prawns of Palamos

No trip to Costa Brava would be complete without a plate of what might arguably be the world’s finest prawns: the famous red prawns of Palamos. The palamós prawns feed on the plankton-rich waters of Costa Brava which give them this unique flavour. I had my first taste of these famous prawns 4 years ago in a centenarian fisherman’s hut. We had sailed by boat from Palamos where these prawns are fished to the secluded white sand cove of Cala dels Lliris, situated in the dreamy village of Tamariu. Yup. Yet another, beautiful secluded fishing village. Beginning to get the picture?

Amidst a feast of the classic Catalan sausage Butifarra and traditional vegetables of the Empordà region – cauliflower, aubergine and sweet peppers, I was served a plate of grilled Palamos Prawns. After peeling back the hard shell of the prawns I savoured their meaty flesh. I don’t think I’ve tasted prawns that have such a level of sweetness. I then discarded the head onto another plate and proceeded to pick out more prawns before my host, chef  Tony Izquierdo approached with a big smile. He picked up one of the discarded heads of the prawn from the plate and sucked the life out it, before neatly depositing it back onto the plate. Prawn brain sucking might be up there with other bizarre food traditions like haggis but I had to try it. I have to tell that I was surprised. It has a slightly sweet taste, kind of like caviar, very rich in flavour. From that day I am a prawn brain sucking convert. Which gets me weird looks across the world. It’s more than ok in Costa Brava. Because here, food means everything. 

6. Visit Palafruguell

The food on your plate is a reflection of the bountiful gifts Costa Brava possesses. The region is blessed with wonderful food markets which are in itself a thing of joy to behold. If you have time to visit just one market, make time to visit the market town of Palafruguell, which is famous for its enticing fish market.  On the ice trays, a wealth of fresh silvery fish glistens, the catch having arrived fresh from the nearby fishing villages of Palamos and Calella Palafruguell. The air is thick with the smell of sea and salt and for me it is the most wonderful smell ever. A daily food market absorbs the senses with a rich palette of colours. The town itself is charming with age old cafes and patisseries that each tell their own story. 

7. Try the ice cream at Rocambolesc

Summer holidays or any holidays for that fact should always be about sun, sand and ice-cream. We are not talking about just any kind of ice-cream. Platja D’Oro can proudly claim to one of only 4 places to be home to what some may argue to be the world’s greatest ice-cream parlour. Rocambolesc is a project developed by Jordi Roca, pastry chef at what many regard to be the world’s best restaurant, El Cellar de can Roca. Last time I came to Costa Brava, I had the pleasure of dining at their restaurant. While it is far from being budget friendly, I consider their 15 course lunch to be one of the best things I have tasted and worth every penny. The other issue with dining here is that you have to make a reservation at least a year in advance. So while you can’t compare eating ice-cream to eating at El Cellar de Can Roca, in terms of an experience, Rocambolesc has to be up there with my favourite food memories. First of all, the place itself. If Willy Wonka had created his own ice-cream factory, it would look like this. The choice of ice-cream flavours is a limited but exciting mix, ranging from mango and lavender sorbet to vanilla and baked apple ice-cream. The twist comes with over 34 exotic toppings that range from crunchy candy to shredded coconut to star candy and chocolate cookies. The combinations and possibilities are endless. With prices starting from just €2.60, this has to be one of the best ‘luxury on a budget’ foodie experiences in the world.

Tip: Stay at the camping Yelloh! Costa Brava

In terms of accommodation, I would highly recommend a stay at Yelloh! Village, a network of premium campsites and holiday villages located across Europe. They offer a wide variety of accommodation options, from mobile homes tp chalets, lodges, and tents. In terms of facilities , visitors can expect a range of activities and amenities, such as swimming pools, restaurants, spas, and sports facilities, all set in a beautiful natural surroundings. The camping villages of Yelloh! are spread over amazing locations across the Costa Brava coast and perfect if you are camping Costa Brava and travelling on a budget.

Sant Miquel is a family friendly campsite in northern Costa Brava, situated between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean and surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. The campsite Mas Sant Josep has proximity to Barcelona, Cadaquès and Figueres making it a good base to explore these cities and the surrounding Catalan countryside. Sant Pol is blessed with a superb nearby beach whilst Punta Milà is situated in the middle of a nature reserve, making it the ideal retreat for nature lovers. Campsite accommodations may include shady pitches, furnished tents, chalets and much more with all sorts of creature comforts. Each campsite has lots of outdoor activities, many of them aquatic, enabling visitors to bask in the beauty of the Mediterranean sun. 

Getting around Costa Brava

The best way to explore the rugged coastline, pristine beaches and beautiful villages is by car. A car rental gives you the flexibility to explore Costa Brava at your own pace. All the major car rental companies have offices at airports and in towns along the coast. It is worth keeping in mind that parking can be challenging in some areas, especially during peak tourist seasons. Costa Brava is also well-connected by bus and train networks. Buses run frequently between towns and villages along the coast, while trains connect major cities like Barcelona with towns such as Blanes, Lloret de Mar, and Tossa de Mar.

PS I visited La Rochelle as part of a 5 day railtrip across the region of Nouvelle Aquitaine. If you missed, here are my earlier guides to Bordeaux, Angoulême and Cognac which all share excellent rail connections with La Rochelle and can be combined, for a short break or longer visit.

1. Walk the streets

We were blessed with the perfect afternoon, late Autumn late sunshine and the clearest blue sky with fluffy clouds which made it a joy to photograph the buildings and minute details of this lively seaport town.

With its 17th Century arcaded streets, there is a feeling of walking back into history in La Rochelle. It’s architecture has been well preserved and looked after.

The best streets to roam include the Rue du Palais, la Rue du Temple, Rue Chaudrier and Rue des Merciers.

The street names reflect the unique history of the place- la Rue du Temple reflecting the town’s association with the Knights Templar for whom La Rochelle was a key base.

Rue des Merciers was the haberdashers street and even in the present day, it is the shopping heart of La Rochelle with many trendy upmarket fashion labels and boutiques setting up shop here.

Gabut

Finish your walk in the former fishermen’s district, Gabut. Located next to the Vieux Port of La Rochelle, Gabut, with its colourful wooden houses ( a legacy of the town’s rich trading history with Scandinavian countries ) & rich graffiti art is a must visit on any trip to La Rochelle.

2. Musee Maritime

This is the place to learn about the maritime history of La Rochelle and to explore the design of some sea faring vessels of importance. You can walk around these ships as well, including a meteorological vessel. A series of interactive exhibits will engage you, especially the younger members of the family. There is a restaurant or a number of tables where you can eat your own packed lunch. Entry to the La Rochelle Aquarium is half price upon showing the Musee Maritime ticket. 

Address: Place Bernard Moitessier, 17031, La Rochelle, France.

Entry Fee: €8 for adults. Children under 18 and students under 26, go free.

3. Aquarium La Rochelle

This fantastic aquarium is open 365 days a year and is one of the biggest aquariums in France. Covering an area of 17,222 sq feet, the 36 aquaria display 12000 animals, spread over 600 different species.

Address: Quai Louis Prunier, 17000 La Rochelle, France.

Entry fee: Adults: €17.50  Children: €12.50

4. St. Louis Cathedral of La Rochelle

St. Louis Cathedral of La Rochelle or La Rochelle Cathedral is an imposing Gothic structure, which has been named a national monument since 1906. 

The first stone of the Cathedral was laid down in 1742. This Roman Catholic Church is characterized by a cupola with paintings by William Bouguereau and a late medieval Gothic bell tower. 

Address: Rue Pernelle, 17000 La Rochelle, France.

Tour de la Lanterne

5. Tour de la Lanterne

Embracing the Atlantic Ocean and as the official gateway to La Rochelle, the towers are a reminder of how heavily fortified the city was back in the 12th century. Highly recommend visiting one of the towers just to enjoy the dreamy panoramic view of the city and also the other towers. A single ticket (€9.50) gets you access to all entry the three towers (free entry for under 18s and 18 to 25 EU nationals.) My favourite is Tour de la Lanterne or Tower of the Lantern which was originally a lighthouse to help guide boats into La Rochelle’s harbour. This 15th century stone edifice has a conical spire and from a distance, presents the image of a church. In later centuries, the structure served as a prison and whilst climbing up to the top of the tower you can witness the more than 500 year old graffiti of the inmates. There are rooms at regular intervals displaying the history of the place and from the top you get a terrific panoramic view of the the city and the water.

Address: Rue sur les Murs, 17000 La Rochelle, France.

6. Musee du Nouveau Monde (Museum of the New World)

When the frontiers of the New World were opened up to the people of France from the sixteenth century, many French people sailed to the New World in anticipation of fresh opportunities. La Rochelle serves as a major port of exchange and emigration. The Museum of the New World, highlights the wealth and acquisitions of a ship owner’s family from La Rochelle, who later became plantation owners in Santo Domingo.

Address: 10 Rue Fleuriau, 17000 La Rochelle, France.

Entry Fee: €8 for adults while kids under 18 and students have free entry. The museum offers free entry on the 1st Sunday of each month (except July and August).

7. Reserve Naturelle Marais d’Yves

This is a beautiful nature preserve just 15 kilometres south of La Rochelle. The 192 hectare reserve harbours 250 bird species, which can be observed through telescopes from the free nature centres. This is an ideal day trip for nature enthusiasts or families with children. Discover myriad frog, flower and insect species too, across the wetland trails.

Address: Ferme de la belle Esperance, 17340 Yves, France.

Jardin du Marché

Where to eat in La Rochelle

La Rochelle is food heaven. Every meal here is a celebration of food, of local identity and of life. Start your foodie safari around the wonderfully chaotic and colourful 19th century market, Marché des Halles. Here, under the beautiful wrought iron arches, you can savour the best of local produce and find the best products of the region: from potatoes from the Ile de Ré to the Charentais melon and saltwort.

The big market days are Wednesdays and Saturdays when the market spills out onto the streets of Rue Thiers / Gambretta and you will discover a wide variety of local food producers

For the best local breakfast, if you love oysters pop into the stand of Huitres Breuil right in front of the market. The oysters are really affordable and you can also enjoy a small glass of local white wine.For a healthy and tasty lunch pop into the local La Jardin du Marché. Everything on the menu is locally sourced and organic. To finish, no trip to La Rochelle is complete without an aperitif at La Guignette where you can savour their house speciality, the ‘Guignette’, a cheap, colourful homemade fizzy fruity alcohol drink created on the premises.

Top tip: Packed with cool, original gift ideas, great selection of comics and a fantastic selection of vinyl, you’re sure to find your bliss in Plein Soleil. As an independent record seller for the past twenty years, Damien is a man of great taste. Among his offerings, you’ll find records from the excellent label Born Bad Records.

Ibis Budget Hotel La Rochelle 

Where to stay in La Rochelle

Autumn/Winter is when you can get some amazing deals on hotels in La Rochelle compared to summer peak season rates.

On my first trip, I stayed in the elegant and very central 3 star Hôtel Best Western Premier Masqhotel La Rochelle where searching via Booking.Com I can find rates for double (room only) for around €100.

On my second visit, I stayed in the slightly more affordable and comfortable Hotel Kyriad in La Rochelle when you can find double rooms for as little as €70.

On the third and most recent visit, we stayed in the Ibis Budget Hotel La Rochelle which is about a 15 minute walk from the harbour. As you would expect with any Ibis Budget hotel, the rooms are clean and comfortable with a really good shower, a fantastic buffet breakfast served in the ground floor lounge plus the added benefit of an outdoor swimming pool that is open during the summer season. Room rates start from €65 a night.

This post is the 5th and final post in a series of features where I share with you some ideas and inspiration for visiting the region of Nouvelle Aquitaine, specifically the cities of Bordeaux, Angoulême, Cognac and La Rochelle. These guides and trip was made possible with the kind support of Nouvelle Aquitaine Tourisme and Atout France but the views expressed here, good and bad are entirely my own.

1. Musée des Savoir-Faire du Cognac

Situated in a 19th century mansion of a cognac merchant , this museum is an excellent starting point of your Cognac adventure, showcasing the history of cognac, its production, and its impact on the local economy. You can see old distillery equipment, barrels, rare bottles of Cognac and other artifacts related to the making of cognac.

Address: Les Remparts, Pl. de la Salle Verte, 16100 Cognac, France

Tickets costs €5 for adults while children under 12 go free.

2. Domaine Drouet

While the big names dominate producers there’s a growing number of smaller cognac distillers you can visit. Try Domaine Drouet in the village of Salles d’Angles near Cognac. This family-run company is helmed by a heartfelt, hardworking husband and wife duo: Patrick and Corinne Drouet. At this artisan distiller you can experience the whole product, learn their family history, visit the vineyards, tour the distillery and then finish with some cognac and Pineaux tasting- it is an intimate and wonderful experience. For as little €9, ( advance booking required ) it also represents great value for money. 

Address: 1 Rte du Maine Neuf, 16130 Salles-d’Angles, France

3. Explore the Old Town

If you have some time, do take a walk through the Old Town of Cognac with its cobbled narrow streets, historic buildings, and many shops and cafes. Unmissable sights include the beautiful Gothic church, Saint-Léger which was built in the 12th century and is known for its impressive stained glass windows and intricate carvings. Other key sights include the 10th century Royal Castle of Cognac , the birthplace of King François the 1st who was one of the most important rulers of the Renaissance. The castle is currently home to Otard Cognac, the oldest cognac house of the region and is open for cellar tours and tastings.

Delicious cognac cocktails at Bar Louise

4. Have an aperitif at Bar Louise

If you want to enjoy some delicious handcrafted cognac cocktails, the place to go is Bar Louise located in the 4 star François Premier Resort hotel. Headed up by the wonderful Germain Canto, this is really intimate and wonderful experience. Highly recommend the ‘Aperitif’ menu to share 4 cocktails of your choice plus a mixed charcuterie platter for 49 euros.

Address:  3 Pl. François 1er, 16100 Cognac, France 

L’Arty Show- Delicious food and wonderful service. A must experience in Cognac

5. Lunch at L’Arty Show

Pop into the local market to try some local products and afterwards have lunch at L’Arty Show behind the market. The food is wonderful, staff are friendly and helpful and at 24 euros for 3 courses, it is a great deal for the quality and experience.

Address: 23 Rue du Pont Faumet, 16100 Cognac, France 

Generous breakfast buffet at Hotel Heritage

 

 

 

 

 

 

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6. Where to stay in Cognac

Situated in a 17th century mansion in the heart of Cognac, the recently refurbished Hotel Heritage combines modern comforts with old world hospitality and is an affordable choice with a lovely outdoor terrace, a beautiful onsite restaurant and bar for your evening aperitif. Double room ensuite, starts from around €70 a night.

This post is the 4th in a series of features where I share with you some ideas and inspiration for visiting the region of Nouvelle Aquitaine, specifically the cities of Bordeaux, Angoulême, Cognac and La Rochelle. These guides and trip was made possible with the kind support of Nouvelle Aquitaine Tourisme and Atout France but the views expressed here, good and bad are entirely my own.