As they would say in Scotland, it was blowing a hoolie on the North Sea. After being tossed around all night like tiddlywinks in rough seas, by the time we approached dawn, the waves flatlined and a calm, cold blue eyed morning greeted us as the DFDS cruise rolled into Newcastle. 

So yeah. Why the hell am I here? (other than the pure love of slow travel and storms at sea) Well, I was on the verge of a footballing pilgrimage of sorts, to some of the greatest football cities of Great Britain.

I would start first in Glasgow, then Newcastle, then onto the great rivals of Newcastle – Sunderland, then onto Liverpool and finally Manchester. So, a distinctly northern flavour. Over the course of a week, I had one key aim – to decipher what makes football so great in Britain and why people are so mad about this beautiful game.

I think I should start by asking myself.

Why is football so special to me?

I grew up near Manchester in a place called Oldham. And in the late eighties, Liverpool was the team. There was only Liverpool and Everton. Manchester United and Manchester City were in the doldrums. 

Plus, it was the era of Barnes, Dalglish and Rush. These were the 3 most fearsome forwards of their era. Then we had Alan Hansen in defence. It was a great Liverpool team to watch.

I think I was 6 years old when I watched the Merseyside derby on TV. I was immediately hooked, and I’ve never looked back since. It’s been a lifelong addiction and passion. I think briefly when I went to India, I lost the passion and became hooked on cricket. However, the moment I set foot back on British soil and went to university in Scotland, I started watching Liverpool again, and it just came flooding back. The passion, the love of the game. It was always there.

Since leaving Britain in 2012 and embarking on my nomadic journeys across the world, football has been my lifeline to Great Britain, to my identity of being British. Wherever I go in the world, I try to watch the Liverpool games at supporters clubs around the world. I’ve made so many friends thanks to following Liverpool. However the best thing, when I see Anfield on TV and I hear the anthem, You’ll Never Walk Alone, it just brings back all the memories of my childhood and all the emotions, the face of my father and friends I have met along the way. Football is my connection to Britain and to me. After the disillusion of Brexit, this trip would be a way of reconnecting with my British roots and a more innocent, version of myself.

1. Glasgow

‘Some people think football is a matter of life and death. I don’t like that attitude. I can assure them it is much more serious than that” 

Bill Shankly

I start my pilgrimage way up north on the south side of Glasgow. It is a typical wet, dreich day. The faint drizzle gets heavier as a thick gust swirls across the thick clumps of uneven turf and eats into our skin. There is no protection from the elements. We are standing on the edge of the Queens Park Recreational Ground. To most casual observers or passers by this would be the most nondescript field and patch of grass, except that this is no ordinary field. The haloed piece of turf is where THE first game of football was ever played, back in the Victorian era.

Just a few steps away, we walk upto the Queens Park Bowling Club, which at first sight, may not look much, but you are now looking at the worlds first ever purpose built football stadium that could hold 20,000 back in its day. These are just one of the many amazing facts you will discover on the incredible Three Hampdens  Tour, led by the warm, articulate and passionate Lindsey Hamilton.

‘If you ever go to the Fifa museum in Zurich, you will see them say that the history of football started in 1864 with the formation of the Football Association which is the English football association. We would argue that the game started well before that, here in Scotland, not a bunch of English guys in a pub!’

Lindsey Hamilton, Glasgow Football Tours

We hop across the road to the second Hampden Park stadium, which most people will know as Cathkin Park, once home to Third Lanark FC. 

The park, while still in use for local community football is barricaded on all sides. It might have been the weather but I felt very sad, at the dilapidated state of what was once the Scottish national football stadium, the terraces surrounding it, now thick with overgrown weeds, nature having replaced the vast empty spaces. 

Cathkin Park is a parable of what football has become. While at the top of the pyramid, rich clubs thrive in the era of hyper-commercialisation raking in billions of revenue from everything from naming rights to t-shirt sales, you have on the flip side, hundreds of historic clubs, community clubs that are on the verge of bankruptcy and extinction. Is the beautiful game is in danger of losing its spirit and soul? Still, with all its good and bad, many will argue that football has an important role to play in today’s society.

Cathkin Park is home to the Jimmy Johnstone Academy, a local community grassroots football club. While visiting Cathkin Park we were fortunate to visit the academy and learn about their various projects that include Freedom from torture, where former torture survivors who recently have arrived in Scotland have the opportunity to play football and rebuild their lives and improve overall mental wellbeing. I had the chance to sit down with Rabin Omar, a professional football player who has also been here working with the Jimmy Johnson Academy since he was 13 years old. I was curious to hear his perspective of local football culture 

‘I mention passion but football is more of a religion here in Glasgow. You see how locals follow their team, week in week out and how it sort of flows through their life on a daily basis. They will live, breathe and think about their clubs most of the day.’

Rabin Omar

Lindsey agreed with Rabin on how football is a metaphor for life in Glasgow. 

‘I think in Glasgow, it’s been ingrained in us since the beginning of time. We are obsessed with football. I think it comes from the fact that it is just such an easy sport for people to go to, just start playing in a park, and it just kinda grew from there.

I think football is just life for me as a Glaswegian. Like, I don’t mean that in, like, a whimsical sense. I mean, like, it’s ups and downs, the same way that life is. And that’s how I always see things, you know. I literally live my life, if I’m having a tough day, tough morning, or even something annoying has happened. I’m like, give me 2 halves. And it’s like a reset. You just go again.’

Lindsey Hamilton

The tour appropriately finishes with a pint of the local Tennents at the fantastic Rose Reilly Pub, a pub dedicated to Scotland’s sole World Cup winner.

Tourist essentials

You can book Lindsey Hamilton’s brilliant Three Hampdens Walking Tours via her website. Tours last 2 hours and cost £15 for adults and £5 for kids.

Just like football, the weather in Glasgow was a game of 2 halves. Morning, absolutely shite, drizzling rain and grey, afternoon – blue skies and beautiful sunshine. It was perfect weather for a wander through the west end of Glasgow. Packed with vintage shops, art galleries, fabulous restaurants, a great bar scene and some breathtaking architecture, the West End of Glasgow is a must on any visit to Glasgow. Definitely make time for the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (Argyle Street), probably the best free museum in Scotland and the UK, from its Ancient Egyptian artefacts to amazing animal displays. If you are a Liverpool fan and looking to watch their games, hop later to The Record Factory (17 Byres Road ), which is the home of Liverpool fans in Glasgow. Great atmosphere, nice staff plus reduced drinks prices during the games. If you are hungry and looking for some scran, you can hop into the University Cafe (87 Byres Rd) few doors away where you can get your fish and chips (£7.50) fix or if you dare, follow in the footsteps of Anthony Bourdian and try the deep fried Mars Bar, £3.50 ) and deep fried egg. Or you could sample another iconic Scottish dish, Haggis Neeps (turnip) and Tatties (potato- £13.95, vegan version available) at Rab Ha’s (83 Hutcheson Street) in Merchant City.”Rab Ha”, short for Robert Hall, lived in the area in the 19th century and was infamous for his love of fine food, earning him the moniker, the Glasgow Glutton!

2. Newcastle

‘Unlike other towns and cities in the UK, our stadium is right in the city centre so it forms part of the fabric of the city, not just metaphorically but literally.’

Eddy Hope, Tyneside Life

When you come to Newcastle, the first thing I notice is how the city revolves around the stadium, St James Park which is slap bang in the heart of the city. It literally takes us a 15 minute walk to reach the stadium from the train station. Along the way, we visit a terrific football memorabilia shop, The Back Page, on St Andrew’s Street. If you want to get a first hand taste of Newcastle Geordie culture and an insight into the history of the city, the club, then this shop/fans museum is an essential stop. 

The scale of the passion and support for the club becomes apparent to me when I see the number of bars and pubs. Newcastle enjoys the highest concentration of football pubs within a half mile radius of any football stadiums in Britain – 108 to be precise.

We visit a few of them, the Newcastle Arms and another local favourite, Rosie. We make a quick pitstop at the German inspired beerhall, Wunderbar, which is an enormous venue and then finish at probably the most famous Newcastle supporters bar of the lot – The Strawberry, which has been sitting right across from the stadium since 1859. The pub truly reflects local devotion to the black and white stripes, with pictures of Newcastle footballers past and present. If you can’t get match day tickets, the next best thing is to watch the game at the Strawberry. You will hear the roar of football fans from the pub and if the team wins, then it will be utter bedlam in the pub.

For football fans the 1.5-hour tour of St. James Park is must. Spend time going behind the scenes of where the real matches take place at the park. Gain access to areas that aren’t normally open to anyone but players, coaches, and officials. Get a chance to slip into the media suite, and see where players and managers are interviewed before and after games. Plus, you can even sit in your favourite players spot in the home locker room.

Tourist essentials

Obviously beyond St James Park, there are the various statues outside it (Shearer, Bobby Robson, Jackie Milburn), and the little Alder Sweeney memorial garden to remember the two fans who died on the MH17 flight. 

Then there’s The Strawberry pub which I mentioned, just opposite the ground which is a traditional meeting point for fans.

There’s a terrific football memorabilia shop, The Back Page, just a stone’s throw away, on St Andrew’s Street. There’s a couple of wall murals, one off Northumberland Street, celebrating NUFC legends, and one on Morden Street, remembering Ish Bamba, a project worker for the Newcastle United Foundation. And finally there’s the Castle Keep itself, from which the football club takes its logo.

Other essentials. Do make time to visit the stunning Grey Street which has some of the finest examples of Georgian era architecture anywhere in Britain and was named after former Prime Minister Earl Grey, yes the very same person who was responsible for introducing Earl Grey tea to the country. Go for a walk along the Quayside, if time permits pop into the BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art and also to nearby Ouseburn Valley, once the cradle of the industrial revolution on Tyneside and now a hub for the creative arts and also home to several outstanding independent pubs where you can sample great food, find live music and comedy acts throughout the week.

Finish off with dinner at the Thai House Cafe ( 93 Clayton Street ) in the city centre. Food portions are huge, all mains are below a tenner and the quality of food, and taste was outstanding. Sabrina tried their beef noodle soup and broth which was excellent, beef well cooked and tender while I had their massaman curry which was flavourful and so tasty. 

3. Sunderland

All the great sports are defined by their intense rivalries. In Britain, especially in the industrial heartlands, the rivalries take on a life of their own, fuelled by a heady cocktail of history, geography, and sheer passion. While many may argue Rangers – Celtic to be the most intense rivalries, the two cities of Sunderland and Newcastle upon Tyne, separated by 12 miles (19 km), can lay claim to be one of British football’s harshest rivalries. The history of the Tyne – Wear derby is a modern-day extension of a rivalry between the two cities that harks back to the English Civil War merchants in Sunderland became a Parliamentarian stronghold in protest against the advantages enjoyed by their counterparts in Royalist Newcastle.

While it was almost impossible to get hold of tickets in Newcastle live (or any Premier League club unless you want to pay €€€€ ), I did manage to get tickets for a Sunderland match, thanks to a partnership between the club and DFDS Seaways. The two clubs have enjoyed contrasting fortunes with Sunderland suffering successive relegations while Newcastle’s fortunes have soared with the recent Saudi takeover. A short hop by train from Newcastle, the match day experience was a refreshing break from the razzmatazz of Premier league football. We land at noon and head to probably the most legendary of all Sunderland pubs, The Colliery Tavern. 

On match day it gets lively early on with lots of passionate locals piling in for a few pints. We grabbed a pint of Carling and found ourselves chatting soon to Guido and Bastian from Germany who had come to see the match. Both passionate football fans, they love to catch football games across various countries in Europe. When I asked them if they had a favourite country for watching football besides Germany they mentioned Britain.

‘The history of the clubs here, the culture surrounding it, the passionate fans, the quality of football and the locals create a special atmosphere which is something we can relate to.’

They had been really impressed with the friendliness of locals and fans in Sunderland, something we quickly noticed. After a few pints in the Colliery, we headed to the legendary Fans Museum. Located in what was a derelict, former train station, the Fans Museum, the brainchild of Michael Ganley is not your archetypical fan museum. Michael has amassed an extensive collection of Sunderland football memorabilia and even football shirts worn by Maradona and Beckham. The shirts are not just there to be seen. Families, children come in every day asking Michael to wear a football shirt of one of their icons, to which he happily obliges. The museum also shows football matches and on match day is packed to the rafters with often 3 generations of families gathered in the space. 

I come away impressed with the strong sense of community spirit in Sunderland. While the team continues to struggle, the dedication of the fans remains unquestioned. If there was an award for the most passionate fans, Sunderland fans would definitely be up there with the best fans in Britain.

I ask Michael how he would sum up his club in one word and he mentioned a word, I would hear a lot from fans that week.

‘Passion! If I would sum up my club in one word I would use something written on the back of my shirt- Passion. It’s passion. Passion in belief. Passion in disbelief, but it all comes under one roof. Whatever the outcome of today, there is always tomorrow and that’s the passion. We never walk away from our beliefs and our true love, really and that’s how you would sum our football club and city.’

Michael Ganley, The Fans Museum

Sunderland lost 1-0 to Millwall that day. It was not the greatest game to watch. One of the highlights was half time grub when I treated myself to chips with curry sauce. So good. 

Still, people. I left with only the best memories of all the warm, friendly passionate locals we met.

Tourist Essentials

The Nexus Tyne and Wear Metro provides a service between Newcastle upon Tyne to Sunderland every twenty minutes. Board a train heading in the direction of South Hylton and disembark at Sunderland or directly at the Stadium of Light.

4. Liverpool

“Liverpool is the pool of life, it makes to live.”

Carl Jung

Liverpool. I emerge from the train station, serenaded by seagulls, the air smelling of diesel, fish and tar. In the distance I can see the dark greyish blue blur of the Mersey, swirling amongst the skyline of the famous waterfront architecture. Even though I have never lived in Liverpool, it feels like home. I have the same sense of familiarity when I visit Hamburg. Maybe, I have a thing for port cities. Places where you have a bit of grit rubbed in with some glamour. After dropping off our bags I go for walk around the city centre and waterfront. Liverpool One. The spectacular array of old and new architecture that is concentrated around the dock that would be the envy of any modern city.

Then there is the Beatles connection. We pop into the Beatles Story Museum. From childhood lives to their first hellos, at the Beatles Story Museum you can learn about the band’s life before their glory days. Spot the stars as young boys in black and white family photographs. See the instruments from their early days – when their passion for music first ignited. Look back at their transformative years when they took to the stage as the modest Quarrymen before blossoming into the Beatles.  It’s packed with memorabilia, such as John Lennon’s glasses, Ringo’s drums and George’s first guitar, as well as recreations of key locations like The Casbah and Cavern Club and Abbey Road Studios. 

I pause for a moment to enjoy the architecture of the Museum of Liverpool which was designed to resemble the trading ships that once dominated the harbour. At the far end of the waterfront, I find the beautiful bronze statue of the four Beatles standing in front of the majestic Royal Liver Building, once the tallest building in Europe. From the waterfront, it is a short walk through the fabulous Liverpool One before reaching the most iconic street of the city, Matthew Street. It is a narrow alleyway that was once bustling with tradesman. However, in recent decades it became a hub of nightlife and home to the most iconic Cavern Club, where the Beatles had their first break. The club hosts a roster of live bands from 11am everyday and is a must see when in Liverpool. Entry tickets cost just 5 pounds. 

Liverpool’s other legendary export is of course football. Every club boasts that their fans are the best and after meeting fans from Glasgow, Newcastle and Sunderland, it is tough to argue against that but… Liverpool fans are truly a unique species. The first and only time I went to see a game at Anfield, the noise in the terraces was something different. Everywhere I walked in the city, there was a buzz about the place and the club… you can feel the passion of the fans. There is a strong sense of identity, set of values that comes with being a Liverpool supporter. Fans are proud of the club’s working-class roots and the spirit of solidarity that characterises Liverpool as a city. I asked Liverpool superfan and Beatles tour guide, Dale Roberts about what makes Liverpool fans so special 

My city and my club is different. I don’t think there’s any city on earth like Liverpool. What makes Liverpool different is the fact that we’ve accepted difference. Liverpool is a melting pot of communities and cultures. There’s so many different types of people, so many different types of ideas. And I love the line that Gerry Marsden said, not in You’ll Never Walk Alone, but in Ferry Cross the Mersey. He has a line in the song, which is 

we don’t care what your name is, boy. 

We’ll never turn you away.’

Dale Roberts, Liverpool Eco Tours

And that epitomizes Liverpool for me.

Liverpool is all-embracing. It is all-encompassing, but it is different because it has its own unique ideology, it has its own unique culture, but it’s got that unique culture by accepting so much else.

The Anfield Stadium tour is a must as part of any pilgrimage to Liverpool, even if you’re not a die-hard football fan.

The guides with their razor sharp Scouse wit are entertaining and informative. Highlights of the tour of course include the chance to enjoy epic views of the Anfield pitch from the top level of the Main Stand, a visit to the state-of-the-art home team dressing room and of course the chance to walk through the players tunnel and pass, touch the iconic This is Anfield sign and get a photo in Klopp’s seat in the dugout. The tickets also include entry to the Club’s interactive museum – The Liverpool FC Story, with nearly 130 years of Club history plus all the silverware including all six European trophies. After the tour, I would also recommend a walk around Anfield to see all the beautiful murals of Liverpool players, past and present.

Tourist Essentials

For Beatles fans, two pubs I highly recommend (Cheers to Dale for the introduction) is the Ye Cracke (Rice Street), the pub that John Lennon used to frequent with his wife Cynthia when he was a student at the arts college around the corner of the pub. The walls are covered with Liverpool- and Beatles-themed paraphernalia alongside some local art of variable quality. When we visited, there were a few locals in but it was quiet, not many tourists. Second must visit pub, right from the Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra is the flamboyant ‘Phil’ aka The Philharmonic Dining Rooms (36 Hope Street) where Paul McCartney did a secret gig on the James Corden’s The Late Late Show and even Buddy Holly performed. It is a stunning wood panelled pub, with ornate furnishings and the most beautiful toilets you will ever see in a pub.

5. Manchester

Separated by just 35 miles, Manchester enjoys a lot of key similarities with Liverpool – striking architecture, rich musical heritage, tons of culture and things to do, great nightlife and of course their passion of football. Despite all their similarities, the rivalry between the cities, the clubs and the locals is fierce. Not as fierce as Glasgow but still, its a rivalry that defines the cities, especially given the rise of Manchester City over the last decade. The city is now home to not one but two of the biggest clubs in Britain and the world: Manchester United and Manchester City. Both share an intense rivalry with Liverpool but many would argue, including myself, that United remains Liverpool’s biggest rivals. The rivalry goes back decades and may have started with the building of the Manchester Ship Canal in 1894 or from the industrial era fallout between Mancunian industrialists and Liverpudlian merchants.

Personally, while I loathe both Manchester clubs as any Liverpool fan would, I love both cities. Having grown up near Manchester, a big part of my childhood was spent here. As our paths have diverged over the last few decades, on every visit, I see something new and leave amazed, always wanting to stay longer. One of the areas I love coming back to and rediscovering is the Northern Quarter, with its glut of creative and alternative flair that reminds me a bit of Kreuzberg or Shoreditch. We start with an incredible brunch at Pot Kettle Black, a northern take on Australian breakfast culture. The food, service is top notch and such a nice lively vibe – great place to start the day. We then pop into the fun and colourful fashion boutique, Thunder Egg whose clothing indulges in our nostalgia for trends from the past decades, from vintage frocks to noughties fashion trends. From there it is a short hop to the world famous Afflecks, which has been an outlet for independent designers and traders across four floors.

Since we are on a footballing pilgrimage, no trip to the Northern Quarter would be complete without a visit to Classic Football Shirts. What started as a challenge between two friends to source classic football shirts from the last few decades and sell them via internet, became a massive enterprise selling football shirts from across the world from the last 50 years.

Even though I no longer have a record player, I still love the old school and physical feeling of being in a music store, browsing records and listening to them on turntables before almost buying them – if that sounds like you then definitely pop into Piccadilly Records. The staff are super friendly and approachable. It is the kind of place where you get talking to people and that’s how we met the amazing Lydia Huna.

As a proud Mancunian and United fan I had to ask her what she loves about Manchester….

‘Community. I think my favourite thing is that despite all the changes that Manchester is undergoing, and a lot of those changes are not great. You know, they’re corporate and steeped in bureaucracy. I think my favourite thing is the history of community and, you know, the struggle that exists because of the north/south divide and the economic challenges that the north has sustained and faced for decades and decades and decades since forever, that gave people no choice but to congregate and be together and look at one another and come together. And, that ethos still runs true, and it pervades in, I think, most Manchester culture, all Mancunian culture, northern culture in general. Like, you just step into a shop like this, and immediately, like, you’re confronted with the culture, and the people. Like, I come in here and immediately start singing. I don’t even know what his name is. He just goes by Pasta Man. I don’t know what Pasta Man’s name is. I just think of him as Pasta Man. 

(Man behind counter: Oh, that’s Paul Pasta.)

….Oh, it’s Paul, Pasta Paul, oh, there we go. But, nevertheless, like, I’ll refer to people by their nicknames before their actual names because you’re confronted with that before anything else. And, just, yeah, like, the prevailing sense of, where these connections take you. Like, Matt works at White Hotel. He does like, runs gigs there. I’ve got a whole community of friends there. It’s so close knit. Some might say incestuous. Manchester is lovely. It is wonderful plus that was a very long answer.’

The topic then turned to football and I had to ask her how she fell in love with her club. 

‘They made a film called Bend It Like Beckham in the 90’s which is synonymous with my childhood like Man United. Like, those glorious summers and knowing that David Beckham was playing, I think that’s how I fell in love with it, but I also fell in love with it because my dad was a Man United fan. I think, through my dad and through the kids that I went to school with and playing football as a kid in the garden with my dad and, yeah, rocking a t shirt with a big 7 on the back of it.

Initially, the world was red. I am Manchester United through and through. We haven’t been doing so good in the Premier Leagues for some time now, but, nevertheless, it’s Manchester United till I die. And real Mancunians support United. Don’t listen to what those City boys say. It’s not true. ‘

Tourist Essentials

If you could not get tickets to the game but want to watch the football in a nice pub – I have 3 tips for you. Try the Tib Street Tavern (74 Tib Street) in Northern Quarter – good grub, ok priced drinks, BOX Deansgate (125 Deansgate) bit more modern, lots of screens and outdoor seating and finally The Lost Den (144 Deansgate), a warm and welcoming gastro pub right in the heart of Deansgate. Also if you are a Manchester United fan, you have to pop into The Old Nags Head (19 Jacksons Row) this is THE ‘George Best’ pub, lots of football memorabilia. Non football pubs that are definitely worth a visit are: The Peveril of the Peak and The Temple.

Also if you are United fan, definitely consider staying at Hotel Football, overlooking the Old Trafford stadium. Owned by former players Ryan Giggs, Paul Scholes, Nicky Butt, Phil Neville and Gary Neville, it has a rooftop 5-a-side football pitch, in-house restaurant and basement sports bar.

They have packages where for £109 ( £139, double occupancy) you can book a package which gives you a room in the hotel with Class of 92 themed toiletries & complimentary retro treats in the mini bar, 2 course dinner in their in-house restaurant and buffet breakfast.

Conclusion

Initially, this week my world was green or blue. Then black and white. Then red and white.Then red.Then red again.Then light blue.

One week. 5 cities. It was a breathless trip, maybe a little too rushed in the end. When we were hopping back on the plane, I had the feeling of wanting to stay longer. A pilgrim’s journey never ends. While it was hard to describe the emotions of all the places, all the people we met, the trip was definitely a reminder of the good stuff that makes Britain such a wonderful country to visit. Don’t believe the doom mongers. With all the ills and pains of Brexit, Britain remains a great place to visit. That is all thanks to the people, their warmth, the witty humour and of course, their passion.

Whatever you make of the divided loyalties, the tribalism, the religious zest,  the incestuous love for their clubs, after this trip, the one thing that for me stood out when I try to summarise football culture in Britain and all the people we met, was the sheer passion. A passion borne from generations of families supporting a club, a passion born from long hazy summers in the garden playing with their Dad, a passion born from the love of their community and how you stand together in the eye of any storm, the unswerving loyalty to your identity and that unspoken rule of staying true to who you are. Call it old fashioned, call it foolish, call it romantic, wherever your loyalty lies, football in Britain exerts a magical almost mythical hold on us. There are no words to describe it. That’s why I guess they call it the beautiful game?

Disclaimer

This video was made possible thanks to the kind support of Visit Britain but all the views, good and bad are entirely my own.

‘Below the Mexican border the water changes colour; it takes on a deep, ultramarine blue—a washtub bluing blue, intense and seeming to penetrate deep into the water; the fishermen call it ‘tuna water.’

Steinbeck. The Log from the Sea of Cortez

In the beginning

Raw.

Remote.

Pristine.

A different planet.

There’s an unworldly feeling about Baja California Sur from the moment you first set foot on this lunar landscape. 

Overrun with cactus and barring a few sleepy towns, the tide of life here is gratifyingly, mind numbingly slow. Once you come here, the vast emptiness of the dusty landscape makes you feel insignificant. You feel very much alone with the elements here. There are no hip hotels, fast food chains or throngs of beachgoers. You come here for the very fact that they haven’t arrived yet. 

It is late November, very much off season in these parts. Yet, temperatures are in the mid 20’s, perfect late Spring weather for us in Europe. Barring a few snowbirds, odd dozen RV campers, we have the pristine Bahia Concepcion coastline to ourselves. With a bunch of incredible beaches to choose from, on the northern side of Mulegé, we plump for El Burro, one of the most unspoilt beaches in the region. Framed by a crescent shaped golden beach, the waters here are crystal clear with a gradient blue shimmer. The water is surprisingly warm and the bay is calm with no current, perfect for novice kayakers.

After a refreshing dip, we discover, right on the beach, a wonderful cafe called Nomadico. Serving handcrafted coffee, using beans from their roastery in Cholula Puebla in mainland Mexico, this cafe feels like you could be in Brooklyn or Berlin. We later dig into a local lunch of ceviche and seafood tacos, prepared on the beach by a team of local fisherman. Some days in your life feel surreal, a special gift from the heavens above but then again, we were in some kind of indefinable dreamscape that is Baja California Sur. 

Before sunrise

The cobalt blue waves crash slowly against the boulder lined strip they call the malecón. 

From the malecón, you can see all forms of life. In the distance there is a lone fisherman in his boat. The sea is calm, flat like a pristine slab of blue marble. Superimposed against the breathtaking backdrop of the mountainous craggy Isla Carmen, the boat looks unreal. Like the perfect oil painting you never thought could exist in real life. Further up the malecón is a small harbour with an impressive whitewashed lighthouse. Usually the marina is heaving with fishing and tour boats heading out to sea but it was quiet.

I am in the sleepy Pueblo Mágico town of Loreto. Loreto marks the northern border of Baja California Sur and it feels like a town lost in time. While enjoying my wonderful buffet breakfast at the Hotel Oasis, my eyes wander the horizon, following the solitary beach doggo as he roams the vast stretch of black sand beach that cradles the Sea of Cortez. On the flip side of the town, while walking the streets, you feel the watchful gaze of the impressive Sierra de la Giganta looming in the distance. 

One of my main reasons for coming to Loreto was to explore the dazzling Loreto Bay National Marine Park, often referred to as the Galápagos of Mexico thanks to the 800-plus aquatic species that call the waters home, from blue whales and Humboldt squid to sea lions. It is November and still too early in the season for whale watching so instead, I drop by the small fishing community of San Bruno. Our destination – the Playa Los Arquitos, located on the desolate island of San Marcos, which is famous for being home to the second biggest gypsum mine in the world.

Out to sea

It was hard to tell the difference between the sky and the sea that morning. They had both been painted that majestic tuna blue that Steinbeck had referred to. The sun was a big yellow ball of hazy happiness, burning slowly through the tuna blue. I had reservations about jumping on a boat that morning but it was such a beautiful morning and there was that inner voice, urging me to defy my fears, strap on the life jacket and hop on the boat. I had expected a bigger boat but when we arrived at the harbour, this wee fisherman’s boat with a 50 hp engine, greeted me. I was nervous but the sea of Cortez looked deceptively calm from land. It was only when we broke away from the harbour, out of earshot of the deafening chorus of pelicans seagulls and albatrosses, the boat thudding fiercely against the bigger waves that I felt my stomach turn. As someone who cannot swim, you can imagine the mortal fear that grips you when you are surrounding by the vast infinite blue of the sea and a boat defying gravity. I I think I had turned tuna blue myself and everyone could see the fear in my eyes. Rafa, our driver who was in front of me, then calmly resting his hand on my shoulder advises me to change position and face the horizon, side on. I felt a little better and focused my eye on the big ocean of blue. We were alone, a blip in this big beautiful ocean and then I saw the unusual undulating peaks of island san Marcos unfurling in the distance. 

We spend the morning relaxing, swimming in the sheltered bay of Playa Los Arquitos exploring its unusual rock formations and caves, a legacy of Baja’s volcanic origins. Some of the group go fishing with the owner of the boat, Daniel. Having worked 30 years on the mines on the island, Daniel retired 5 years ago and besides running fishing expeditions to the island, also runs a very popular Palapa la Abuela restaurant. They bring back a bountiful catch of several fish that include Barracuda, yellowfin tuna and marlin. Daniel makes a tuna ceviche tostada for starters. I think I might have had ceviche almost everyday of our trip in Baja California Sur. For mains , we had grilled marlin with rice and salad. So fresh, tasty with extra slices of avocado, lime wedges and coriander for garnish along with 3-4 varieties of hot sauces for extra heat. That lime, avocado, chilli and spicy sauce combo has to be one of life’s great pleasures. 

Inception

‘We don’t have the attractions of a big city. We live in small towns., rancheros. All we just have is this pristine rustic beauty. You can see the thermal geysers. You can see the cave paintings and see fossils. It’s very quiet here. We built these cabanas here for tourists and locals to enjoy the volcanic landscape. Go for a hike. Plus, you come here for the people. There’s a warmth here, a natural flair for welcoming people for centuries in Baja California Sur.’

Oscar Castañeda, Eco Tour Las Tres Virgenes

We sat in perfect silence waiting for sunrise over the volcano. We had arrived late at night under the clearest night sky full of millions of stars. Before calling it a night in our humble cabanas of our eco lodge, we gather around a roaring fire and gaze in awe at the sky. Unfortunately being a full moon night, it wasn’t the perfect night for star gazing. But the moon did illuminate the night sky like a billion watt bulb. Hidden behind a plume of white clouds, we could barely make out the mighty silhouette of the 3 volcanoes, the Las Tres Virgenes as they are called. We would have to wait till sunrise before a better look. We file into our rustic and creaky cabins. It is simple but cosy. Oscar turns on the hot water (solar-powered) before bed so we have a quick shower before crawling under the covers. All for just $400 MX (€20). 

Sunrise. From the viewing tower we have a perfect 360 degree view of the landscape with not a soul in sight. The vegetation is sparse here with the main landscape dotted with multiple cacti of varying heights. Our guide and host, Oscar reminded us that the cactus sometimes grow only a few milliliters and that many of the cacti in front of us were 500 years old. 

As the sun rises, a beautiful kaleidoscope of colours emerge to the eye, from red rouge, to beige and green, that give the landscape an even more beautiful surreal look. The only real sign of life is a plume of smoke in the distance where a geothermal electric plant is located. Other than that, nothing much exists here.

As the sun burns through the clouds, the mighty Las Tres Virgenes emerges in full view, rising steeply and majestically from the desert floor. You can still see the lava tracks from previous eruptions. It is a 5 mile loop from the lodge but time is short so the next best thing was to see the hot springs ride in the nearby  El Azufre Canyon. We hop back on the car and after a short 15 minute hike from the main road, we find the viewing point, the smell of sulphuric gases reminding us that we are still within the vicinity of an active volcano. Mexico has more than 2,000 volcanoes, however only 40 are active. The Las Tres Virgenes volcano last erupted in 2001 and is still monitored. 

The end is just the beginning

It has been a few weeks since we left Baja California Sur and I still sometimes find myself lost for words when I think of this place.  The surreal landscapes and fragile environment really push the boundaries of your mind. Everything you know and recognise as familiar, cannot be found here and realise just how small and insignificant we all are in the grand scheme of things. 

I will let Steinbeck say a few words.

Trying to remember the Gulf is like trying to re-create a dream…There is always in the back of our minds the positive drive to go back again. If it were lush and rich, one could understand the pull, but it is fierce and hostile and sullen. The stone mountains pile up to the sky and there is little fresh water. But we must go back if we live, and we don’t know why.”

Steinbeck

Steinbeck who died in 1968, never made it back to Baja. Maybe, he did not need to return. Baja is that kind of place. A fantasy. A dream, that lives on within you, long long after you have said goodbye. 

Disclaimer: This once in a lifetime adventure was made possible thanks to the trip planning platform, HipTraveler and the Baja California Sur Tourism board.

For the full itinerary of our Baja California Sur trip , please checkout the HipTraveler website.

Eternal gratitude to John, Swati and Luis for bringing us to Baja California and also love to the dream content team- Melvin, Nina, Garrett and last but not least, Sabrina.

1. Enjoy the Street Art 

Olomouc has a lively street art scene thanks to the annual Street Art Festival which launched in 2007. Thanks to the festival, Olomouc has attracted international street art stars like Mr. Dheo, ZZRock, Wild_Drawing, ParizOne and Chemise, whose works can be seen across the city.

There are many examples  of street art right in the heart of the city centre like the small passage ‘Lomená Gallery’, right across from the Museum of Modern Art which currently features masked faces (‘Sweet vandalism’ artwork by local Dosy Doss), which gets redecorated every few years.

Right next to the Museum of Modern Art, is one of the most famous street art pieces in the city by Mr Dheo, a large mural of  King Edward VII of Great Britain, posing with a selfie stick. Right next to the mural there’s Marie Curie holding a container full of uranium. Other prominent large murals in Olomouc include the the Power of Silence by an Indonesian artist Wild_Drawing, right at the crossing of Pavelčákova Street and Třída Svobody.

2. See the Museum of Modern Art Olomouc

Address: Denisova 824/47, 779 00 Olomouc, Czechia

With a focus on showcasing art from the 20th and 21st centuries, the Museum of Modern Art hosts a collection of 85000 art items that include paintings, sculptures, drawings, graphic art, photographs, applied art, and architectural designs. The gallery focuses on presenting both long-term and short-term exhibitions primarily showcasing art from the 20th and 21st centuries, with a big focus on Czech Modern art. Don’t forget to climb to the top of the wee tower on top, from where you can enjoy a bird’s eye view of Olomouc skyline.

Tip: Entry is free on Sundays.

Don’t miss: The Robber by David Cerny

Along the facade of the Olomouc Museum of Art you will observe one of David Cerny’s iconic sculptures, a robber who is trying to escape the museum with a valuable piece of art (a sculpture piece) in his backpack. The sculpture is apparently that of Karel Nepraš, a tribute to the late Czech sculptor. The statue is powered by an engine that moves along the ledge every hour and features the voice of Czech singer, David Koller.

3.  Have a coffee at Konvikt Bistro & Bar

Address: Univerzitní 3, 779 00 Olomouc, Czechia

If the weather is nice, hop to the terrace of the atmospheric Konvikt Bistro&Bar, located in a former 17th century baroque Corpus Christi Chapel. It is a great place to relax for a coffee, cakes and they also serve a nice selection of food with vegan and vegetarian options. 

Or try 

Traffic 

Palackého 21

Just around the corner from Konvikt is Traffic, one of Olomouc’s best coffee shops, tucked into a former newspaper shop. The brainchild of a local architect, the coffee is fantastic plus definitely try Honza’s cakes, which come with a plum or sweet cream filling. Definitely keep an eye out for the quirky chairs, designed along the lines of the seats of the legendary Czechoslovak T9 tram.

4. Visit the Olomouc Astronomical Clock

Horní náměstí square is one of the nicest in the Czech Republic, surrounded by historic buildings . One of my favourite buildings on the square is the splendid 15th century baroque Town Hall with a tapering tower that features a highly unusual astronomical clock on one side, dating back to the early 15th century, making it one of the oldest astronomical clocks in the world. It was created by the clockmaker Mikuláš of Kadaň, almost a decade after he built the famous Prague Astronomical Clock. The Olomouc Astronomical Clock was almost completely destroyed by the Nazis and remodelled during Communist years to display scenes of proletarians at work to mark the passing hours, rather than saints. A procession of twelve apostles emerges from small windows above the main dial, accompanied by a short musical tune everyday at noon.

5.  Have lunch at Cà Phê District

Cà Phê District is without a doubt some of the best Vietnamese cuisine I’ve found anywhere in the Czech Republic. Try the banh mi sandwiches, pho or my favourite, the red curry with tofu or chicken. Portion sizes are generous, prices are reasonable, staff are friendly and speak English. Finish off with a strong Vietnamese coffee to stave off the food coma.

6.  Visit some of the architectural gems of Olomouc

I love the juxtaposition of architectural styles, from the bombastic Baroque and moody Gothic to the ugly pretty socialist architecture in Olomouc. Olomouc definitely has a very interesting architectural scene, with an intriguing mix of old and new. Dedicate your afternoon to visiting some of the city’s range of architectural gems. Here are my favourites.

Red Church of Olomouc

A church doesn’t sound like the most obvious place for finding innovative design but the Red Church of Olomouc has undergone a dramatic renovation. Reflecting the church’s Neo-Gothic style, Czech study Atelier-r has added an extension to the existing church which was built in 1902. The star feature of the renovation is a minimalist glass encased stylish cafe and reception area which has been constructed from the same pastel pink concrete of the floor. One of the highlights is the tall back wall of the reception, filled with old books that are backlit in the evening. The reception and church intends to be a hub for cultural events and live music concerts. I am not a design or architecture geek but it is definitely something you should see if you are visiting Olomouc. 

Villa Primavesi

The Art Nouveau Villa of Otto and Mede Primavesi is one of the lesser known sights of Olomouc, tucked away in the winding streets of the historic city centre. This architectural marvel has stood for a century and is a remarkable example of the style of the Vienna Secession, built by Viennese architects Josef Tolk and Franz von Krauss . Today, the villa is recognized as a national cultural monument, a time capsule of the elegance and charm of the era. The personal highlight for me is the gorgeous Art Nouveau entrance  of Villa Primavesi, adorned with the work of a certain Gustav Klimt, who was a frequent visitor back in the day.

Holy Trinity Column

Just across from the town hall you’ll also spot that UNESCO-listed Holy Trinity Column, which I saw all those years ago in a Lonely Planet guidebook. The magnificent 18th century monument, ornately decorated with sculptures of various saints was constructed as an expression of gratitude for the city’s deliverance from the plague and to honour the Holy Trinity. Supposedly the biggest single Baroque structure in Central Europe, it was built by the prominent Moravian sculptor, Ondřej Zahner and stands at approximately 35 meters (115 feet) tall, made primarily of sandstone.

Kino Metropol

One of my favourite buildings is the art deco Kino Metropol, which showcases the latest in independent cinema with a few English language cinema screenings every week. They have a retrokino screening every week. On my last trip I was privileged to see the 80th anniversary screening of Casablanca for the bargain price of 90CZK (€3.80).

Mausoleum of Yugoslav Soldiers

In the heart of Smetana Park, standing on an artificial mound, is one of the more unusual attractions of Olomouc, the Mausoleum of Yugoslav Soldiers, a Neoclassical style chapel with an ossuary that was built as a resting place for the remains of 1100 Czech and Serbian soldiers who fought each other in the First World War. For a century, the mausoleum had been lying neglected, attracting addicts and vandals before being boarded up and was recently renovated.  You will see an epigraph etched in the shape : VĚRNOST ZA VĚRNOST – LJUBAV ZA LJUBA. The first part which is Czech, means ‘loyalty for loyalty’ and the second part which is in Serbo-Croatian, means ‘love for love’

7. Take a boat ride on the river

You are probably going to need a rest after exploring all the sites so why not slow it down and see the city from a different perspective? I highly recommend taking one of the river boat cruises. Lasting 45 minutes, this service includes a live commentary from the captain about the the Morava river and the surrounding nature. The journey leads you through the original river bed from their dock ‘Olomoucká náplavka’

To book a river cruise checkout the website for sailing times. Indvidual bookings can be made but it is worth noting that without a minimum of 6 bookings, sailings will not take place. Any questions, drop a line to info@plavbyolomouc.cz ; cost 220 CZK for adults and 170 CZK for children/seniors.

8. Where to drink beer in Olomouc

Brewery Moritz 

Nešverova 2

Round off the day in style at a 1920’s style Czech pub and brewery, named after the famous local architect Moritz Fischer. Moritz offers hearty Czech cuisine and also a selection of 3 unfiltered beers, 10°, 11° and 12° beers, which are brewed on the premises. You can also book a tour of the microbrewery or a crash course in beer brewing.

Svatováclavský Pivovar

Mariánská 845/4, Olomouc

Another Olomouc classic, Svatováclavský Pivovar is within walking distance of the old city centre. With a weird location and entry (ground floor of an apartment building, through the apartment entry hall), once inside it’s very spacious yet cosy. Expect hearty Czech cuisine, friendly service and a range of beers, from classic unpasteurised beers to more unusual flavours like banana and cherry. The outdoor patio, with tables covered by plaid chequered cloth are the place to be in the summer. They also have a beer spa if that’s your thing.

9. Where to find Tvarůžky” Cheese, the famous Olomouc cheese

There is a Czech saying, the worse the cheese smells, the better it tastes, so naturally I was wary of trying ‘Tvarůžky’ Cheese. When it comes to cheese, I don’t have the most adventurous palate, especially  strong, pungent cheese but Olomoucké tvarůžky is a must eat when visiting Olomouc or exploring Czech cuisine so I had to try…

Olomoucké tvarůžky, enjoys a typical and unmistakable taste and smell, caused by the (proteolytic) degradation of cheese proteins during the maturing process. Locals often enjoy it with bread, accompanied by onions, pickles, and sometimes topped with butter. I am pleased to inform you that it tasted much better than I thought, nice savoury taste, creamy texture and goes very well with bread or crackers, washed down with a dry white wine. Maybe there is truth in that old Czech saying…

Visit the special “tvarůžky”shop: Prodejna Olomouckých tvarůžků ( Address: 7, Horní nám. 365, 779 00 Olomouc, Czechia ) on Horní náměstí square, opposite the astronomical clock to sample it when in Olomouc.

10. Olomouc Nightlife tips

25% of Olomouc’s population are students so it may come as no surprise that the bar scene here definitely packs a punch for a city of its size. My favourite bar is the Vertigo student sky club, a basement club with rooms designed with scenes from Hitchcock’s classic thriller Vertigo. The cheap beers and eclectic range of cocktails here (try the Angry Dog) will leave you for sure with a vertigo inducing hangover the following day. 

If you love your Guinness and whisky, also pop into the stylish Black Stuff, Irish Pub and Whisky Bar – fab service and great atmosphere. If you are a jazz, blues aficionado, pop into the Jazz Tibet Club which plays host to local and international bands from the jazz, blues and world music scene. 

11. Where to stay in Olomouc: Long Story Short Olomouc

Location: Olomouc, Czech Republic

Long Story Short make you feel like you’re in a cloud. Combine that with climbing up sleek large stairs to the lofted beds in the dorm rooms (this hostel “doesn’t believe in bunks” – you’ll only find them in the 10-person dorms) and you’re sure to feel like you’re in a dream.

The historic building also features an in house café that serves delicious Moravian food and baked goods, local wine, beer and coffee. Additionally, downstairs is home to Vault 42, an equally beautiful co-working space.

Disclaimer

This post was produced in partnership with Czech Tourism and Traverse Events to help commemorate the thirtieth anniversary of the independent Czech Republic #Czech30

As always the opinions expressed here, good and bad, are entirely my own.

Introduction to Chur 

Chur is a small, medieval mountain town in the Swiss Canton of the Grisons, towards the eastern part of Switzerland. Reputed to be the oldest town in the country, this perfectly preserved slice of Swiss history takes visitors back to a slow paced, peaceful, more placid way of life. In the Old Town, with its heritage buildings and leafy green vineyards creeping slowly up the surrounding hills, one could almost believe that time has stood still. Viewed from the heights of Fürhörnli, the highest point of the town, Chur appears spread out across the deeply chiseled Grisonian Rhine Valley. Known for its ancient history, dating to prehistoric times, Chur contains several heritage buildings of national importance. Strategically placed on the Rhatetian Railway route, Chur is the ideal place to hop off for a few days of rest and contemplation of the peace and beauty of the mountain scenery. 

Best things to do in Chur 

1.Exploring the Old Town

Switzerland’s oldest town can be found in the Old Town of Chur. With the additional distinction of having a history of settlement reaching back as far as five millennia, visiting Chur is like stepping into a time warp and breathing in the reality of a long forgotten past. With the majestic backdrop of formidable snow capped peaks and the dark steepled city spires of Chur reaching up to the crisp Alpine air, this lofty city seems to be locked in its medieval past. Adding to its charm is the pedestrian free Old Town, enabling visitors to freely explore its winding streets and alleys, discovering town squares, old churches, painted murals, cafés, shops and museums. 

2. Explore the town by playing Urban Golf

A fun way to explore all of Chur’s main sights is by playing a game of Urban Golf. Instead of playing on a traditional golf course, Urban Golf can be played in any form of living environment, from narrow winding cobbled streets of Chur to disused  industrial warehouses and school playgrounds. In Chur, you can hire for a small price, a set of golf clubs and a special softball from the tourist information office along with a map of the 9 holes to master which are spread across alleys and plazas in Chur’s picturesque old town. It is really fun way to discover and interact with a place , drawing you into parts of town you may have missed. It always elicits wonder and amusement from locals and tourists alike so there is never a dull moment. It is a lot of fun and something that people of all ages can enjoy.

Essentials:  To play the full 9 holes across Chur with friends or family costs 15 CHF. It takes around 2.5 – 3 hours to complete all the 9 holes. A deposit fee of CHF 10.00 per person is required , in cash when you pick up the equipment at the ‘Tourist Information’ ( Bahnhofstrasse 32, 7001 Chur ) . The equipment includes 1 golf club, 1 soft ball, 1 “bäseli” and 1 lanyard. The deposit will be returned when the equipment is returned. 

3. Chur Cathedral

Chur Cathedral or Saint Mary of the Assumption Cathedral is a Catholic Church borne of the perfect marriage of Romanesque and Gothic Architecture. Perched high up on a hillside, surrounded by lush vineyards, the Episcopal Court contains both the 800 year old Cathedral and its neighbouring Bishop’s Palace. Dedicated to the Assumption of Virgin Mary the stunning golden Gothic altar contrasts with the exterior – a nod to Eastern influences shaping its construction due to its proximity to major ancient trade routes. Chur Cathedral is three naved and it’s central nave is fashioned from rock from Scalära. The portal of the main entryway is bolstered by six columns that are held aloft by six coloured archways. Notable interior features of the church include the Gothic altar designed by Jacob Russ, the carved choir and the spectacular stained glass arched window. 

3. St. Martin’s Church

The Gothic spire of St Martin’s Church leaves an indelible impression on the skyline of Old Town Chur due to its character and the longevity of its existence in Chur. Built in the eighth century in tribute to St Martin, Bishop of Tours, the once Romanesque Church was burnt down in 1464 and rebuilt in the Gothic design. An ethereal feature of the Church is the more recent addition of three stained glass windows by Augusto Giacometti, depicting scenes from the Christmas story. The white facade of the clock tower, with pointed black spire is a convenient landmark in the centre of town and the view from the church tower of Old Town and the surrounds shouldn’t be missed. 

4. Rhaetian Museum

The Rhaetian Museum is devoted to the history and culture of the surrounding area, i.e. the Graubinden Canton. It is a treasure chest of ethnographic, archeological and sociological finds and information. This permanent exhibition is spread over four floors of the Baroque museum building, originally built in 1675, which is a piece of history in itself. Young children can benefit from a visit to the museum too. A fun way to learn about each of the exhibits from a child’s perspective is to pick up a special key from the ticketing office. Each room in the museum contains a locked box, which when opened with the key reveals information about the history of individual exhibits. Not only is this a good way to impart knowledge from a different angle, it also makes each child feel extremely special. 

There is a small museum shop that proudly displays carefully curated gifts and souvenirs. The museum is mostly wheelchair accessible. 

Prices for tickets start at 6 CHF for adults, 4 CHF for pensioners and students while children under 16 can visit for free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

5. Bündner Kunstmuseum (Graubünden Art Museum)

Only a two minute walk from Chur Railway Station, the Graubünden Art Museum is the home of art and art history in Graunünden, spanning over three hundred years. The beautiful heritage building, Villa Planta, is graced by a recent extension – designed by Barozzi Veiga and the combined unit, spread over 1200 square metres is home to 8000 pieces of art. The museum with has strong focus on contemporary art featuring artists that have a strong connection to Graubünden like Angelika Kauffmann, the artist family Giacometti, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and the artist group ‘Rot-Blau.’

Entry fee for adults is 15 CHF for adults while kids under 16 go free.

However, if you are staying overnight in Chur, you qualify for the Guest card Chur which gives you free access to the Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History and Graubünden Art Museum.

6. Explore the Street Art

Chur is home to the most renowned street artists in the world, BANE. You can find his murals, astonishing in terms of scale and detail, spread across the city. 

Unmissable works include Mühleturm , the ”creative landmark” of Chur and the largest mural painting in Switzerland and “I have a dream” ( 2015) which he painted with the street artist Pest.

Brambrüesch

7. Hike from Brambrüesch to Pradaschier 

Directly above Chur and easily reached by cable car, Brambrüesch is a hikers paradise in summer with glorious meadows filled with diverse Alpine Flora and incredible panoramic views of the mountains that encircle Arosa, the Schanfigg and the Lenzerheide. The trail starts off with a quite pleasant and scenic walk through the forest to the Malixer Alp. If you haven’t haven’t had lunch you have the option of dining in the Bergbaiz which serves hearty, fine local Alpine cuisine for affordable prices. After a relatively gentle hike, it gets more scenic and interesting as you ascend higher to the Galti-Alp. This is the highest point of the hike and the surrounding views are spectacular here. For someone who is a hiking novice and a bit afraid of heights, I really enjoyed the hike despite some initial fears. The range of flora and fauna, the views -truly is a unique experience. It is a gradual decent into Pradaschier where the cosy Pradaschier mountain restaurant with its glorious sun terrace offers visitors a chance to unwind with a drink or some enjoy some hearty Graubünden fare like Capuns.

The best part of the hike is the descent to Churwalden via a spectacular toboggan ride- three kilometers long and with 31 bends, some of them hairpin curves, this toboggan ride is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as the longest track-guided railway in Europe. The toboggan ride down is 18 CHF for adults, 13 CHF for kids from ages 13-17 and 9 CHF for kids under 13.

Note: If you have the Guest Card Chur, you get 50% off the ascent and decent on the  Chur-Brambrüesch cableways.

Da Mamma

Where to eat in Chur 

I will be publishing next a more comprehensive guide on where to eat and drink but here a few tips. If you are looking for traditional homemade Italian cuisine at an affordable price then Da Mamma’s is the place to come. Fixed price 2 course vegetarian lunch menu is just 16.30 CHF is one of the best value lunch deals in town. If you love South Indian/ Tamil cuisine, then you should also pop into Yaal for their lunchtime buffet which start at just 19.90 CHF. Next door neighbour to the Bogentrakt Hostel, Kostbar, where you have a good mix of local food like the Churer Fleischtörtli or more comfort food like burgers and curries. Prices start from 14 CHF. If you are on a tight budget, the local Coop supermarket offers a range of salads, sandwiches and snacks at affordable prices. For example, a salad nicoise costs 8.50 CHF. Last but not least, try Wok and Momo, a tibetan run diner with a range of dishes , from their excellent value stir fry wok noodles ( from 7 CHF) to momos ( 18.50 CHF).

Special mention must go to Polenta 7000, a summer pop up festival run by local creatives and kindred spirits where visitors can enjoy delicious food ( Chickpea curry and rice for just 8 CHF) concerts, DJ sets, table tennis, open air cinema, childrens circus. The season wraps up on 26th September 2023 but keep your eye out on the Polenta 7000 website for next summers pop up.

Day Trips from Chur 

Chur to Tirano with the Bernina Express

The Bernina Express is a must if you are visiting Chur.  The train traverses one of the world’s most spectacular and scenic routes, providing passengers with a mesmerising, once in a lifetime travel experience. Starting in the Chur, the Bernina Express glides up the Swiss Engadin Alps to culminate its journey at the Italian city of Tirano. The train spans an astonishing 196 bridges, 55 tunnels, winds up high altitude mountain passes, passes glaciers, alpine lakes, twists around spiral viaducts, skirting glaciers and hopping over country borders. Highlights of the journey include the soaring Bernina Pass at an elevation of 2253 metres, the crossing of the famous Landwasser Viaduct an architectural marvel, with some of the most jaw dropping scenery in the stretch between Ospizio Bernina and Alp Grum.

The 1000 mm gauge is fully electrified and uses 7% gradients to negotiate sharp differences in heights. The panorama cars offer an immersive travelling experience for passengers and enable them to drink in the sights and take photos and videos to their heart’s content. Audio guides in a variety of languages are also available describing the surroundings. 

The Bernina Express is operated by the Rhaetian Railway Company. The Albula and Bernina lines on the Bernina Express were declared World Heritage Sites in 2008. The Albula line  runs from Chur to the Pontresina station in the Bernina Valley. The Bernina Line from Pontresina ascends the valley to the heights of the Bernina Pass. South of the Alps, the train traverses glaciers, lakes and mountains and then proceeds eventually towards the Swiss Italian border, to end at Tirano.

The Bernina railway is the highest railway line in the Alps, and somehow manages year-round travel, despite thick snow drifts in deep midwinter.

Where to stay in Chur

Bogentrakt Hostel 

One of my main hostel finds of the year was this beautiful new design hostel in the picturesque town of Chur, the oldest  inhabited town in Switzerland. It is one of those rare hostels which is really embedded in the heart of the community. By the end of the trip, I made so many friends across the city. Chur is that kind of place where locals are super friendly.

Bogentrakt Hostel, set in the heart of Chur against the scenic backdrop of vineyards, has a dark history and used to be the “toughest prison in Switzerland. Owner Marco Leibundgut transformed it into a vibrant hostel, giving the historic building a new lease of life.. The hostel’s name, “Bogentrakt,”is  a German word that translates to “curved wing” or “arched wing” and pays homage to the prison’s distinct curved structure.

Old, former prison cells have been tastefully converted into modern rooms. Visitors can learn about the colourful history of the prison and former inmates via QR codes and pictures which are visible throughout the hostel. 

The facilities are brilliant and perfect for nomads- dedicated coworking space at no extra charge, a really nice guest kitchen which guests can use to cook from ( handy given how expensive eating out is in Switzerland) plus a common room with a library, board games and also a TV for watching movies. For a small fee, the hostel also helps with your laundry which is very handy. The hostel reception has a drinks kiosk with local drinks and a beer on tap if you are feeling thirsty. There is also a small shop with local products, food essentials, everyday body products in case you run out during your stay. Hostel organises dinners and also has plans for hostel happy hour to bring guests together in the lobby. The hostel also has a really cool bar and restaurant called Kostbar which is nice to have a beer and relax, especially in the summer months when the terrace is open. The Sennhof, the original complex where the hostel is located is also home to local designers, a beautiful flower shop and also an art gallery so you really feel a sense of community and being part of the everyday life of the town.

Freiband Sand

There is a range of beautiful hikes and nature within a short distance of the hostel so that is another big plus for staying here. Room rates start from 32 CHF per bed per night, Doubles from 99 CHF per room, per night. There is a special prices of 399 CHF for a weeks stay, booking directly via the hostel website.

There is a 10% discount for BudgetTraveller readers who book directly with Bogentrakt Hostel: Please quote BUDGETTRAVELLER when booking. Plus anyone who books with my code will also receive a free mystery local drink on arrival.

Free Guest Card Chur

It is worth again reminding that anyone staying overnight at Bogentrakt or any other tourist accommodation in Chur will be eligible for free the Guest Card Chur which gives you access to a wonderful range of benefits which include:-

1. Free use of public transport in the TransReno fare network, Zone 1 (2nd Class). Not valid for bikes and dogs. Valid after check-in. Bernina Express and Glacier Express is not included.

      2. One free entry to the Obere Au indoor and outdoor swimming pools or the outdoor swimming pool Sand

      3. Free entry to the local museums: Raetian Museum, Graubünden Museum of Natural History, Graubünden Art Museum

      4.Chur-Brambrüesch cableways: Visitors get a 50% discount on the ascent and descent 25% discount on bike day tickets              (Alpenbikepark Chur and bike day ticket Arosa Lenzerheide Chur). To get your ticket please show your guest card at the               cableways ticket office. The tickets of the guest cards are valid up to and including 5 pm. The evening rides and the rides             on 1 August are not included.

Disclaimer

I was invited to Chur as a guest of Bogentrakt Hostel and Chur Tourismus. However, all the opinions, good and bad are  entirely mine.

1. Breakfast at Best Western Hotel Via Regia

Start the day with the very filling buffet breakfast at the 3 star Best Western Hotel Via Regia where I had checked in the night before. A really stylish modern hotel, affordable too plus just a short walking distance from the train station.

From homemade bircher muesli to natural yoghurt and fresh fruits, cakes and doughnuts to smoked salmon -there’s something for everyone in the hotel breakfast. Plus you have unlimited fresh coffee, tea and juices. Loved the fact that lot of the items were locally sourced-from the bread and rolls to the mustard and Bauernmettwurst ( from Bautzen)

2. Enjoy the architecture

Walking Görlitz is a time travellers dream. With over 4500 listed buildings, the city is a timeline of all the major architectural styles of the last 3-4 centuries: from Baroque to Renaissance to Neoclassical to Art Deco, the range and style of buildings is incredible.Every corner, every twist and you’re in Babylon Berlin or 1920’s Paris – the city is like a movie set. The architecture of Gorlitz is best appreciated on foot-Gorlitz is a very compact city or to get a different perspective, climb to the top of the Rathaus Tower.

3. Visit the Grand Budapest Hotel

One of the reasons I was excited to visit Görlitz was to see the setting for the Grand Budapest Hotel- an abandoned, Art Nouveau department store in Görlitz called Görlitzer Warenhaus (An der Frauenkirche 5-7 )

Anderson found the space while location scouting for the movie and promptly fell in love with its unique, historical architecture. Thanks to the fantastic privileges of my day job, we got an whole hour to explore the building. Note: Despair not. You don’t need to be a blogger or have 5 million klubeks to visit ‘The Grand Budapest Hotel’ -you can visit the building for FREE only on Thursdays, Friday evenings only.  There’s definitely something about a movie setting coming to life right in front of your eyes. I recognise the exquisite stairways, elevators, and atrium of the building from the movie. At one point, I try to stop taking photos and keep my phone back in my pocket to soak it all in. The fact that the building remains abandoned and empty just adds more to the illicit charm of visiting the place. Visit soon though, the building has been acquired with plans to redevelop it into a luxury good store.

4. Visit the Untermarkt

The Untermarkt is the older of two market squares that are to be found in Gorlitz. This a beautiful square, featuring charming Renaissance buildings, cobblestone streets and overarching arcades. Keen movie lovers will be familiar with the square from movies like The Grand Budapest Hotel and Around the World in 80 days ( with Jackie Chan ) It has a timeless look and feel, very reminiscent of Vienna or Paris. The magical atmosphere of the square is enhanced by the odd busker and small cafes dotting the square where you’ll find a mix of tourists and locals enjoying a drink, or a bite to eat.

The Untermarkt is also host to festivals like Tippelmarkt and Altstadtfest. Some of the places to visit in and around the Untermarkt are the Rathaus (town hall), the Neues Rathaus, the Schonhof houses of the Silesian Museum, a Renaissance house in the middle of the Untermarkt called the Waage, the Brauner Hirsch- a baroque town house and the ‘Whispering Arch’ or Flüsterbogen.

5. Rathaus-Take a tour of the tower of the city hall for the best views of Gorlitz

Definitely take a tour of the tower of the city hall for the best views in Gorlitz. The city hall tower or Rathausturm was built in the 16th century. It’s best feature is the panoramic view it provides onto the town of Gorlitz but apart from that it has intricate clocks, sundials and an organ piping lion for special effect! There are two clocks in the tower: one is the moon phase clock that is part of the lunar calendar and the other clock has the head of a warrior, eye rolling and sticking out his tongue, every hour on the hour, set in the middle of the dial.

The Town Hall tour is available from March to December and only from Wednesday to Sunday. The designated meeting point is at the stairs of the Town Hall stairs, Untermarkt 6-8 (no reservation needed) Tours always run on the hour from 11am to 6pm. Duration of the tour is 45 minutes. Fee for the tour for adults is €4 and for children 6 to 14 years, the fee is €1,50

6. Lunch at Restaurant Destille

The Restaurant Destille is one of Gorlitz’s best restaurants where you can eat everything from lasagne, pasta, salads, steaks to more traditional local dishes like the famous Schlesisches Himmelreich which is pork roast, ham, dumplings, and stewed fruit in a white sauce.

7. Visit the Silesian Museum of Gorlitz

Silesia was once a culturally distinct country with its own history. Olden day Silesia was part of present day Poland with small parts in the Czech Republic and Germany. Gorlitz was selected as the location for the museum celebrating Silesian history because Gorlitz is Germany’s largest Silesian town. The Town of Gorlitz donated the museum building – the Schonhof (Beautiful Court) and later a museum administration building Zum Goldenen Baum (The Golden Tree) was acquired. The permanent collection offers a good glimpse into the history of Silesia. Here you can view the arts and crafts of the 17th to 19th centuries. Highlights from the collection include geographical views of Silesia, art objects from the Riesengebirge. Donations from the Silesian people abound here. Coins, ceramic and other beautiful artefacts can be seen here.

Address: Untermarkt 4, 02826 Gorlitz, Germany

Hours: Tues-Thurs- 10am-5pm

Rates: Adults- €6, Concessions- €4

8. Whispering Arch” aka Flüsterbogen

Delight in a spot of secret whispering around the Whispering Arch or Flüsterbogen in the Untermarkt of Gorlitz. Whisper sweet nothings at one end of the overhead arch and a person positioned at the other end of the arch is perfectly poised to listen in. This is a little piece of magic in Gorlitz that should not be missed.

Address: Untermarkt, 02826 Gorlitz, Germany

9. The Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences aka the Harry Potter Library of Gorlitz

Barely a few minutes walk on Neißstraße 30 is another gorgeous baroque house- The Kulturhistorisches Museum (cultural history museum) which houses the stunning Upper Lusatian Library of Sciences. The unique and beautiful library is arranged with beech shelves in the middle of the room, instead of along the walls. This gives the feeling and the grandeur of being on a stage and it really takes your breath away. The library often features on list of the most beautiful libraries in the world. It contains 40,000 volumes with numerous rarities and treasures, including medieval manuscripts and incunabula, which were the earliest printed books before 1501.

Essentials: The museum is open Tuesday – Sunday and admission is €5. Every Monday at 11am there is guided tour of the library.

10. Cross the Neisse river into Poland

A short walk across the 200 feet wide Altstadtbrücke (Old Town Bridge) will bring you to the other half of the city, the Polish city of Zgorzelec. The proximity of the two cities makes Görlitz a unique location where you can experience two countries and cultures in one place.The bridge only became fully accessible as late as 2007 when Poland gained accession to the EU. Once you cross the bridge, signs in a drab font advertising cheap cigarettes and booze giveaway the fact that you are now in Poland. A pretty row of restored houses lines the riverbank on the Polish side. One of them bears the plaque of its most iconic resident, Görlitz’s most famous son, Jacob Böhme, a philosopher and Christian mystic born in the 16th century. The house has a Jacob Böhme exhibition where you can learn more about his life. Enjoy a symbolic Zywiec beer at one of the restaurants lining the river. We chose Ristorante & Pizzeria Espresso-good prices and friendly staff.

11. Coffee and cake at Cafe Herztstuck

Cafe Herzstück (Weberstraße 2 ) was one of my finds from the trip- very alternative cafe with a focus on vegan and vegetarian cuisine plus great coffee. On the surface it seems like any other normal, cosy cafe but my eye spots a row of Singer sowing machines. Apparently you can come and rent the sowing machines by the hour. The cafe also organises book readings & concerts to praline chocolate making classes and table football classes-there’s something for everyone here.

12. Beers at Brauerei Bierblume

Formerly a brewery dating back to the 18th century, come and relax in the beautiful inner courtyard where you’ll find locals on wooden benches supping on their delicious homemade beer in large glass mugs-an oasis of calm and great beer in the city, definitely make a point to visit this brewery and say hello to the friendly Alex Klaus, the owner and brewer. Perfect place to end your day in Gorlitz.

Essential facts

Fly into Berlin or Dresden and then take the train to Görlitz . Trains run frequently between Dresden and Gorlitz ( €24, 1 to 1 1/2 hours) If you are coming from Berlin , change in Cottbus ( €44, 2 1/2 hours )

Where to stay in Görlitz

One of the best deals in town is the 3 star Best Western Hotel Via Regia where you can grab a private rooms for as little as €70 a night via Booking.com

Hotel rooms are modern, extremely comfortable and clean. The hotel serves a very generous buffet breakfast. Only minor drawback is the location- hotel is a 5 minute walk from the station and a bit far from the centre of town. Perfect if you have a car.

Another excellent budget option for couples or solo travellers is centrally located Görlitz “Old Town” Europe Youth Hostel. Located in a beautiful period building. ( one of the grandest buildings on the square-it really doesn’t like a hostel from outside ) the hostel has large inner courtyard that is perfect to relax in after a day of sightseeing, generous buffet breakfast plus simple but comfortable rooms-altogether this hostel is a good choice if you’re on a tight budget. Room prices start from €60 a night for a double and include breakfast. A bed in a multi bed dorm starts from €25 per person, per night and includes breakfast.

Disclaimer

My stay in Görlitz was possible thanks to the support of the Saxony Tourism Board who invited me to discover some of the region’s lesser known cities: Meissen, Görlitz and Bautzen. I’d like to take the opportunity to let you know that while my trip was supported by the tourism board, the article and all the views represented here are entirely mine. Thank you for reading.

1. Cite du Vin

La Cité du Vin is one of the most unique museums in the world, an entire museum devoted to the history, development and characteristics of wine drinking. What I loved about this museum is that it takes the knowledge and heritage of wine making, gathered over countless generations, from across borders and brought it all together in one place for people to discover.  It is a place which wine lovers from all around the world should treat as a place of pilgrimage. The 3000 square metre, extensive exhibition space is dedicated to delivering a highly immersive and multi-sensory interactive experience. Two to three hours is sufficient time to take in the 20 or more installations but the enthusiastic oenophile might easily spend an entire day, perusing the museum. 

Top tip: Do set aside some time to visit the Belvedere (8th floor) where you can enjoy 360 degree panoramic views of the city plus enjoy a wine tasting session where you can choose a glass of wine which is included in your ticket.

Prices: Tickets to the permanent exhibition, including a glass of wine at the Belvedere costs €21 and just €9 for children under 18. Kids under 6 visit free.

Adult full price, €22.00; Adult reduced price, €17.60; Children (6-17 years), €9.00; Children reduced price, €7.20

Bassins des Lumières

2. Bassins des Lumières

Another highlight of your time was visiting the gigantic former submarine bunker turned community arts space, Bassins des Lumières.  It is the largest permanent art installation in the world with over 13000 square metres of space dedicated to the display of breathtaking artworks that are projected in an exhilarating way, guaranteed to leave you spellbound. It is the perfect marriage between art and technology. Masterpieces of some of the most well known artists of all time are projected around 4 basins that provide ample projection surface area, reflective pools and high ceilings. Gaudi, Dali artworks reach new dimensions with this innovative, fully immersive experience at Bassins de Lumières. For more about current exhibitions visit their website. 

Prices: Tickets start from €15 for adults, Seniors €14, Student €12.50 while young people aged 6-25 qualify for a discounted rate of €9

3. See the Miroir d’Eau

The Miroir d’Eau, like the name suggests, is a mirror created by a thin sheet of water, a mere 2 cm deep and occupying a stupendous area of 37,100 square feet. Built on granite slabs, the effect created by this reflecting pool, particularly at night is mesmerising and dizzying – with the mind being subject to the trickery of reflection. The golden glow of the honey-toned buildings in the UNESCO heritage Place de la Bourse is not to be missed.

The Water Mirror is the brainchild of designer Michel Corajoud and subsequently the fountain designed by Jean-Max Llorca and architect Pierre Gangnet. The Mirror works from April to October – and sends up a fine mist of water every 15 minutes. It is such a fun feature, particularly for children.

4. Porte Cailhau – a magnificent view of Bordeaux

In 1495 King Charles VII rode into battle at Fornovo and to celebrate his victory, a grand city gate/monument was built, standing at a formidable height of 35 metres tall and commanding an impressive view over the surroundings. The victory gate provided an entry point in medieval Bordeaux, celebrating in its design, the glory of the Renaissance. The honey coloured stone of the gate along with its multiple grey turrets, make one think of a fairy tale castle in miniature and adds greatly to Bordeaux’s romantic appeal.

Over time, the gates structure and facade have hardly changed. Do note the carved niche on the side of the tower facing the river holds a likeness of Charles VIII.

From the top tower you get great views of the river and Bordeaux’s skyline.

A memorial to a victory fought hundreds of centuries ago has now been integrated into the city walls and in the current day provides a view like no other plus, a glimpse into a romantic period of history. Make sure to visit the exhibition on the first floor of the monument displaying the tools used in constructing Porte Cailhau and a short movie that allows the viewer to step back in Bordelais history. 

Prices : Entrance : 5 € | 3,50 € reduced | Free with the Bordeaux Métropole City Pass.

Free for less than 12 years old.

Darwin

5. Darwin Ecosystem-renovated barracks to enjoy street arts in Bordeaux

A military barracks has been given a new lease of life in the heart of Bordeaux. The venue is called the Darwin Ecosystem and in its current avatar is a beautiful, renovated social space serving as a co-working space, grocery shop, community hub and organic restaurant. It is also a place where the Bordelais head to find out about matters close to their heart – festive events, a place for reflection and so much more. Citizen activism is also on the agenda as well as social entrepreneurship. A place that was a wasteland has been fruitfully repurposed – 3 hectares of goodness and the perfect place to view exhibitions dedicated to street arts. 

6. Go for a boat ride on the Garonne

The Garonne flows from the heights of the Aran Valley in the  Spanish Pyrenees to the port city of Bordeaux, after which it meets the Gironde estuary, flowing into the Atlantic. 

Bordeaux is situated on the curvy bend of the Garonne and thus the city is geographically divided into a right bank and left bank, with the left bank being historically more developed. To navigate the passage of people from the left to the right bank and vice-versa, a public transportation system has developed with stoppages at Stalingrad, Quinconces, Les Hangars, La Cité du Vin, and Lormont. Apart from being a practical means of navigating to and fro across the city, the ferry system , navette fluviale, can be a beautiful way to see the city from the waters and enjoy the tranquil passage across the Garonne. The full ferry timetable for BAT3 can be found here.

As part of its public transport system, the city of Bordeaux provides a ferry (navette fluviale), that has five stops: Stalingrad, Quinconces, Les Hangars, La Cité du Vin, and Lormont (take a look at the ferry time table here). You don’t have to do the whole line, you can use it to just cross the river to the other side.

7. Picnic in the Jardin Public

The Jardin Public feels like you have been transported into the countryside, from the midst of the busy city and occupying a modest 11 hectares of land serves as the ‘green lungs’ of the city.  Created in 1746 by the French designer, Jacques Ange Gabriel, French design is very much in evidence here. Home to a Natural History Museum, a botanical garden, children’s playground, a bar cum restaurant – L’Orangerie, the much acclaimed puppet show – ‘Guignol Guérin’ – swans, ducks, centuries old trees, flowers and the Bordelais themselves, enjoying recreation time, the Jardin Public packs a hefty punch. 

Today it seems strange to take in this serene environment and give thanks to history because the land was once deemed unsuitable for growing grapes and was thus transformed to recreational space. 

8. See Bordeaux’s spaceship in the Bassins à Flot

A 55 feet wide spaceship in the midst of the Bassins à Flot grabs you unawares whilst touring Bordeaux. Designed by the British artist Suzanne Treister, this unlikely, metallic object has been built with the idea that Bordeaux is looking towards the future and it is this futuristic vibe that surely resonates throughout this beautiful French city.

Top tip: Discover Bordeaux on foot

Discovering Bordeaux on foot is the best way to experience the city’s diversity. The ‘City of The Lumières’, drawn up with a compass by 18th century architects and town planners, is synonymous with harmony : hôtels particuliers, beautiful squares and avenues are spread all along this route that takes you through picturesque areas like Saint Rémi and Saint Pierre quarters.

Where to eat and drink in Bordeaux

Blind wine bar

9. Visit Blind Wine Bar

Food and wine scene here is amazing – We ate so well here. Bordeaux is the capital of wine so you will drink some fantastic wine here. Highly recommend a visit to the ‘Blind’ wine bar. Serving tapas style dishes inspired by the owners Central / South American roots, each dish is accompanied by blind wine tasting- for me a wine newbie like me, it was very educational.

Oyster tasting Les Halles des Bacalan

10. Checkout the local markets

Bordeaux is also home to some fantastic markets where you can really fresh, local food like the the Capucins market plus there is the lively Les Halles de Bacalan market. ( Great oysters here ) My last tip would be to pop into Magasin General-an organic restaurant in the Darwin ecosystem where all the ingredients are locally sourced.

11. Try Canelé 

If you were to taste one thing in Bordeaux, it would have been Canelé , dough, soft and subtly scented with vanilla and rum with a crispy, caramelised exterior. The best place to try this is La Toque Cuivrée.

12. Stay at the Moxy Bordeaux

Moxy Bordeaux has a fab location in the heart of Bassins à Flot , steps from the Cité du Vin and within walking distance from the Bassins des Lumières. The Moxy guestrooms are the perfect combination of style and comfort, where guests can relax and connect. The hotel’s large lobby is the place to socialise, with an onsite bar serving local beers and also stonebaked pizzas. There are lot of comfy sofas to lounge, tables to work from and and there’s a 24/7 pantry that has snacks and drinks which is very handy.

This post is the 2nd in a series of features where I share with you some ideas and inspiration for visiting the region of Nouvelle Aquitaine, specifically the cities of Bordeaux, Angoulême, Cognac and La Rochelle. These guides and trip was made possible with the kind support of Nouvelle Aquitaine Tourisme and Atout France but the views expressed here, good and bad are entirely my own.

Charles Darwin

Bassins des Lumieres

I had no clue what to expect from Bordeaux. We would be of course drinking a lot of good wine. In addition, friends had raved to me about the city’s incredible gastronomy. Now, this sounds very cliched and dull but when I want to visit France, I tend to gravitate towards Paris a lot. Even though the Parisians can be tough to love, I love the city, its history, roaming the left bank, revisiting old favourites like Shakespeare and Sons, the Musée d’Orsay and then finishing off with a glass of wine in Un Zebre a Montmartre. As you grow older, you seek joy in known comforts and reinforced connections. Change, does not come easily.

While I love to return to the places where I have good memories, there is also a drawback. I find with every visit that something changes, especially in the aftermath of Covid, like a favourite bar or a hostel closing down. Places change. The individual changes too. New travel habits form in place of old ones. One worries less about things out of our control like train or plane delays. Food becomes very important when it comes to travel. One likes to linger longer, order an extra glass of wine and try the impossible, to make the delicious meal stretch longer, infinitely like time. One hates being cooped up like a sardine in a plane – the urge is to get to the destination, fast. However, after a summer of long train journeys around Europe, one realises that the train is preferable, even if it takes longer. It is good for the environment but also good for the soul, giving much needed time to pause and reflect.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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So, this autumn, I decided to give Paris a miss and visit Bordeaux in the autumn. It was my first time back in France since the pandemic. When I arrived in Bordeaux’s Gare Saint-Jean train station I was greeted by the neon lights of a brasserie opposite the station. Glowing in the rain, they soothed my weary eyes. The driver who greeted me, Nicholas, was very pleasant and pepped me up. The unseasonal good weather may have contributed to his good mood. It was 27C the day before we arrived. The rain, however was much needed after a long summer where it had barely rained 6 times in the last 6 months. 

‘It was a ghost town here 30 years ago.’

During our ride to the hotel, Nicholas tells me about the amazing transformation that Bordeaux has undergone in the last 20 years. We speed through the harbour, past warehouses, co-working spaces and swish looking restaurants. With a shake of the head, Nicholas tells me that if I came here 20-30 years ago, I would have a very different view.  The harbour was the port of all the sailors of the world and welcomed the biggest ships, packed with hefty loads of fruits and cereals. As industrial fortunes declined throughout the 60’s to 80’s and key industries relocated outside of the city, this allowed the derelict warehouse and harbour area to become a bastion of  ghosts, pimps, prostitutes and drug addicts.

Suzanne Treister’s The Spaceship

By dawn, the rain had cleared and I had my first proper sight of Bordeaux. Bordeaux is best known for wine, but investments in infrastructure and culture over the past decade have transformed huge chunks of the city like the harbour area where my hotel, the Moxy is located. The Bassins à Flot district is the Bordeaux of tomorrow with some futuristic architecture and some of the city’s best attractions. There is the majestic swirling glass tower of La Cité du Vin which offers guests a spectacular and playful journey of the senses into the universe of wine, from ancient history up until today. Then you have Bassins des Lumieres, a gigantic former WW2 submarine base built by the Germans on the Atlantic coast for U-boats during the Second World War. This venue has recently been converted into an original, “underground” cultural location by the City of Bordeaux. While both these places have become icons of the city’s transformation, my favourite part of the Bassins à Flot  was the 55ft in diameter structure ‘The Spaceship’ by British artist Suzanne Treister. The artist created it to signify the city’s transformation from the ‘sleepy city’ to France’s most futuristic city.

A great piece of street or public art like Suzanne’s spaceship can be transformative. It can transform a place in need of regeneration, change people’s emotions and also transform the community in which they reside. 

Artists Jeroen Koolhaas and Dre Urhahn knew this. On the final day of filming a documentary about life in Rio de Janeiro’s hilltop favelas, Koolhaas and Urhahn started thinking how it was possible to give these poor communities a human face with the help of art. They decided to create some murals in the favelas that would reflect the vibrant spirit they had encountered in these communities. ‘Boy With Kite’ is a great example. The 150m2 mural tells the story of a boy flying a kite which is a popular pastime in Rio’s favelas. With the help of local youths , it took them 3 months to finish. For young people, the art project provided them an alternative to a life of crime in one of the local drug gangs. Plus, it gave these young people something that they could positively identify with. Not just in Rio, but in communities around the world, individuals have been using street art to transform dull parts of a city into vivid representations of local identity.

The street art scene in Bordeaux reminded me a lot of Rio and also the city I currently call home, Berlin. Street art has regenerated the right bank of Bordeaux and a lot of the abandoned buildings here like the Darwin ecosystem for example.  After the departure of the military in 2005, this former barracks became a favoured destination for graffiti and street artists.

Magasin General, Darwin

They paved the way for its sale and ultimate transformation into a community space which currently houses a co-working space, an eco friendly skatepark, an organic restaurant and grocery shop Magasin General  & tonnes of events, from yoga classes to festivals. Darwin was the start. Former prime minister Above all Mayor of Bordeaux, Alain Juppé started a massive regeneration programme to bring back the riverfront to life, pedestrianise the city centre, clean up the architecture and install a hi-tech tram system.

Walking along the waterfront, it is hard to visualise how much the city has changed. Even in the inclement weather, along the riverbank I encounter skateboarders, joggers and cyclists while in the bars and cafes, there is a lively presence of the Bordelais, undeterred by the rain, enjoying a glass of wine and some nice charcuterie. The pace of life is distinctly unhurried and calm. It reflects in the locals you meet. I am greeted with a smile wherever I go. I like my grumpy Parisians but this is a side of France I could get used to and enjoy.

Two days is not enough to see Bordeaux but I’ve seen enough to want to come back. Excellent train connections also offer the possibility of visiting other parts of Nouvelle Aquitaine like Arcachon and Dune du Pilat. If you are a comics lover, you may also want to visit Angoulême which is just 35 minutes by train to Bordeaux.  While there is joy in revisiting old places, sometimes new places offer us the chance to experience something we didn’t expect, something new within ourselves. Change comes slowly but as Bordeaux has shown, it brings back the possibility of something new and that is something to celebrate.

This post kicks of a new series of features where I share with you some ideas and inspiration for visiting the region of Nouvelle Aquitaine, specifically the cities of Bordeaux, Angoulême, Cognac and La Rochelle. These guides and trip was made possible with the kind support of Nouvelle Aquitaine Tourisme and Atout France but the views expressed here, good and bad are entirely my own.

Sometimes, getting lost would not be fun. Sometimes the guidebook tips would not be overrun with other backpackers or closed down. However, those are the high and lows of travel. Just like with most experiences in life. When I look back at all these trips, I never remember the pain of all those bad experiences. They are now scars I proudly wear. I do remember the faces of people I met. Some of whom I am still in contact with. Some of whom I have never met or likely to meet again.

I started thinking of how I could recreate the magic of trips of old, where I would meet locals, get lost, make mistakes. How about a holiday which involved no guidebook and also no social media? A trip where you depending entirely on tips from locals. The biggest challenge for me personally is that I find it hard to muster the courage to speak to locals, an issue I think many of us face. To make it easier, I came up with the idea of a deck of cards. Each card would have a question to some of the most important questions on holiday like ‘Where is a good place for coffee?” or ‘A bar popular with locals’ or ‘ Best place for ice-cream’ Cards would be divided into 6 sections: Morning, Lunch, Afternoon, Evening, Dinner and Night. Questions would be tailored towards the time of the day. By introducing an element of gamification, I hoped that it would help break the ice easier with locals. Now I had the idea, the challenge was to design and create the cards plus to find a destination where I could test the idea.

I’ve always secretly fantasized being a graphic designer and thanks to Canva, they’s made that almost a reality. It is so easy to create a professional looking poster or cover for ebook.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I decided to dig deep into Canva and after playing around with a few ideas for templates for the card game, I came up with something that looked fun and professional. The initial feedback was fantastic from friends and after printing a dummy set, I realised I could, almost anyone with a sense of design and imagination, could come with their own set of playing cards.

Kleinbasel, Basel

The last important part of the challenge was picking a city. Initially I thought it could be quite fun to do the challenge in my home town Berlin. However, having lived here for almost 6 years, I already knew the city well. I would have to find a city which I had absolutely no clue about. It was around then, this was around April 2021, I had a chance conversation with the head of PR from Basel Tourismus, Isidora Rudolph. I had never been to Basel and also hardly explored Switzerland. The city was a complete unknown quantity to me other than the fact that it was a city by the Rhine. It was also a city where France, Germany and Switzerland met. A meeting point of many cultures and influences, Basel sounded like the ideal city to meet locals and launch the idea.

How did it go?

We visited Basel at the peak of summer on a late weekend in July. We arrived late afternoon and checked into the very stylish Silo Hostel. Basel is one of the more expensive cities of Europe so we wanted to find a balance between comfort, price and quality and this hostel represented that. We could have stayed at a canalside hotel which was close in price but for me one of the best reasons to stay in a hostel is that you tend to get better tips from staff there which was crucial for the success of our challenge.

Day 1

Jasmine and Buoy- Bug a Thai, Klara

Klara

Tip: Discovered randomly while walking through Kleinbasel

On the first evening we wondered through Kleinbasel. Aimlessly wondering through a new town with no destination in mind is one of life’s greatest pleasures. It also gives you a chance to get your bearings, checkout the neighbourhood. We popped  briefly into Agarwal , a huge Indian Grocery food store where I picked up some nice Indian snacks- you can take the Indian out of India but not the Indian out of.… Around the corner of Agarwal, we discovered Klara, a food court that serves culinary treats from Japan, Argentina, Thailand and Africa. It looked busy, nice ambience so we gave the place a go. We ordered a delicious Pad Thai from Bug a Thai, one of the food vendors in the court. While ordering the good we got speaking to the lady who was serving us, Jasmine. We mentioned we were from Berlin and visiting Basel for the first time. I then explained to her the nature of our trip and our challenge to discover Basel with the help of our card game. She was curious to see the cards, so we showed them to her. I then asked her to draw a card from the evening section. The card she drew?

’My favourite place for sunset.’ Her eyes kind of lit up when she drew the card. ‘ Sunsets are my favourite thing!’ She recommended we go to the Dreirosenbrucke for sunset. Since it was already quite late and past sunset, we saved that tip for later.

Day 2

Kunstmuseum Basel

The Kunstmuseum Basel

Card: My favourite museum in Basel

Tip from Christian, manager of Silo Hostel.

Our first tip of the day was from Christian the hostel manager. He recommended us to visit the Kunstmuseum Basel which houses the second largest public art collection in Switzerland, after the Kunsthaus Zürich and is listed as a heritage site of national significance.Its lineage extends back to the Amerbach Cabinet, which included a collection of works by Hans Holbein purchased by the city of Basel and the University of Basel in 1661, which made it the first municipally owned and therefore open to the public museum in the world. Its collection is distinguished by an impressively wide historic span, from the early 15th century up to the immediate present. Its various areas of emphasis give it international standing as one of the most significant museums of its kind. These encompass: paintings and drawings by artists active in the Upper Rhine region between 1400 and 1600, and on the art of the 19th to 21st centuries.

Basel Munster

Basel Munster

Tip: Random stumble!

From Kunstmuseum you can see the dreamy spires of Basel Munster so we decided to go for a wonder to explore. Together with the Mittlere Brücke, the Basler Münster (Cathedral) is probably the most famous landmark in Basel. With its red sandstone walls, colourful roof tiles and twin towers, no other building adorns the cityscape of Basel like the Cathedral. The former episcopal church, was built between the years 1019 and 1500 in the Romantic and Gothic styles. The crypt, the chancel, the tomb of Erasmus of Rotterdam, the Gallus gate and the two cloisters are witness to a fascinating tale of construction over a period of several centuries. The piazza in which the Cathedral stands is today a popular meeting place and is often used for concerts and events.

Pfalz, Basel

The Pfalz

At the back of the Munster, we discover the Pfalz , a terrace that offering wonderful views over the Rhine and one of the most popular viewpoints in the city. From the terrace we could see the ‘Reaction Ferries’ crossing the Rhine river and since we needed to hop to Kleinbasel, we decided to try them out.

Hop on the ferry

We hopped on 1 of 4 passenger ferries that cross the Rhine from one bank to the other, using nothing but a steel cable and the current of the water.  Popular with locals and tourists like, it is a quick and convenient way of crossing the river and offers a fantastic perspective of the city and definitely worth checking out.

Lunch: Restaurant Weinbar Sonne

Tip from Tanya

We stopped by at the newsagent  on Rheingasse and got talking to Tanya who manages the place. For lunch she recommended we try Restaurant Weinbar Sonne just across from her for their delicious pizzas. We tried their salami pizza with a pint of beer- really tasty and also well priced for Basel.

Gelateria Di Berna

Card: My favourite ice-cream place

Tip from Sacha Kohler, Kunstmuseum Basel

Inspired by their camping holidays in Italy along the coast between Livorno and Follonica, three brothers-Michael, David and Hansmartin started Gelateria Di Berna in Bern where their Italian style gelato ice-cream using organic local products and eccentric flavours ( think ginger/fruit mixes and the like) are all the rage. After Zurich, they just opened a new outpost in Basel when we travelled there in August 2021. We never would have known about Gelataria Di Berna unless we got chatting to Sacha Kohler at the Kunstmuseum Basel who drew the ‘My favourite Ice cream’ card. Turns out Sacha is quite a gelato afficionado. Gelateria Di Berna was really lovely ice-cream and perfect for the weather. ( 30c at the end of July )

He later emailed me to say that he also wanted recommend 1 more favourite places which we sadly did not have time for – Eisuru Glace in the local Markthalle ( Especially their black sesame flavour )

Buvette DreiRosen

Buvette DreiRosen

After the ice-cream at Gelateria Di Berna, we got a little lost about what to do next. It was a really hot afternoon. The locals were all gathered by the banks of Kleinbasel, going for a dip in the river to cool down. Looked like a lot of fun but we didn’t have our swimsuits with us. I contemplated asking a local for some help but then noticed all of them queuing  at one of these wee makeshift container units that had seen all along the riverbank here. We decided to queue at one of these container units by the Dreirosenbrucke- Buvette DreiRosen. These buvettes – part bar/ part restaurant , I later discovered are a classic feature of summer in Basel. There are also the cheapest place for a beer in Basel and it is not cheap here so if you are looking for a nice cold cheap beer with a view, come here.

Sabrina sipping on Martin’s signature cocktail: ‘Adam.’, Schall und Rauch

Schall and Rauch.

After our beer, we continued our walk down Kleinbasel back to the old town. We gravitated back to Rheingasse to a bar we had spotted next to Restaurant Weinbar Sonne called Schall and Rauch. I think it was the happy smiling face of owner, Martin waving at a friend while we walked by earlier that had initially caught my attention. I walked past the bar and popped our head and said hello and he then asked us where we were from. The bar was mostly empty. Business was slow with locals all gathered by the river. So he had time to entertain us and within a few minutes , we had perched ourselves at the bar, drinking one of his signature cocktails called ‘Adam.’ The base is a ginger liqueur with rum, grapefruit juice, cassis and a cherry on top- it tasted amazing.  Martin was great company and host.

Flo, Za Zaa

Dinner- Za Zaa

We headed to Lebanese restuarant, Za Zaa on recommendation from a few locals and this was probably our best meal of the trip.

The place was packed. The service was wonderful, food beautifully presented and the ambience was lovely. On recommendation of the lovely Flo, we ordered their Mezze platter to share which had cold and hot plates of food that included their smoky delicious baba ganoush, beetroot hummus, halloumi fries and falafel balls, basmati rice and chicken kebabs. I can’t remember everything I ate but it was all delicious with a special nod to the kebabs-incredible. We washed this down with their caipirinha cocktails which were delicious. This was hands down one of the best Middle Eastern restaurants I’ve dined in Europe.

Day 3

Eiscafe Acero, Basel

Eiscafe Acero

Card: I get my caffeine fix here

Tip from Flo, Za Zaa

Another popular establishment on Rheingasse next door to  Restaurant Weinbar Sonne and Schall und Rauch is Eiscafe Acero, a cafe and extremely popular icecream parlour with lots of unusual, dairy free and vegan options. ( Long queues everyday for their ice cream-always a good sign) However, we had come for their coffee and their beautiful backyard garden. This was a tip from Flo from Za Zaa.

‘It is the perfect place to start your day.’ he told me dreamily and he wasn’t wrong. On a sunday morning, it was blissfully quiet and we had the whole garden to ourselves at 10am. Great coffee and lovely service too. Next time in Basel, we will try their ice-cream.

Niki de Saint Phalle, Solitude Park Basel

Solitude Park

On our way to catch the Wild Maa ferry across the river to the Paper Mill ( tip from Christian, manager at the hostel) , we strolled through the beautiful Solitude Park next to the Rhine and the Museum Tinguely ( Later discover that Niki Saint de Phalle and Tinguely were partners in life and art, the ‘Bonnie and Clyde of the Art World’ ) we discovered one of Niki de Saint Phalle’s colorful painted polyester sculptures. I’m a huge fan of her buxom, bold and beautiful sculptures and followed her work ever since I saw an exhibition of hers in Nice. So this was a really cool discovery.

Postcard pretty St Alban in Grossbasel

Basel Paper Mill + Wilde Maa ferry

Card: Surprise Us

Tip from Christian, Silo Basel Hostel

1 of 4 ferries to cross the Rhine, we hopped onto the Wilde Maa ferry from Kleinbasel to St Alban in Grossbasel. It was perfect on Monday morning -we were the only people on the crossing.

The ferry drops you off in the scenic area of St Alban, an upscale residential district of Basel dotted with villas and Gothic and baroque merchants’ houses. Our main reason for coming here was to see the Basel Paper Mill museum but it is sadly closed on Monday morning. This is where not using a mobile phone and checking beforehand can hurt on a trip.

Still, we enjoyed wondering around the narrow winding streets and seeing the old timber-framed buildings- really feels like stepping back into a different era. We witnessed the old gateway to the city-the St. Alban-Tor, known locally as the “Dalbedoor” which is the gateway to the St. Alban quarter of the city.

Marktplatz

Card: My favourite market in Basel

Tip from Mike, Silo Hostel

Our next stop was the bustling Marktplatz, recommended by Mike one of the cooks at the Silo Hostel Basel. The marktplatz is dominated by its vibrant rouge red 16th century town hall. During the week, there’s a busy weekly market where locals come to buy fresh vegetables, fruit and flowers. After a quick cup of coffee at the marktplatz we ventured up Gerbergasse to checkout the shops.

Lackerli Huus AG

We stumbled upon Lackerli Huus by chance. One of their friendly staff members gave us a chance to sample one of their famous Basler Leckerli biscuits, a ginger biscuit popular in the region that reminded us a lot of Lebkuchen gingerbread cookies that are a popular Xmas treat in Germany. Sabrina is a sucker for lebkuchen so we had to pop in to sample more of their delicious biscuit specialities. Tasty stuff. We ended up buying a box of their famous Lackerli biscuits to take back home.

Tapas del Mar, Spalenburg

Tapas del Mar Spalenburg

Stuffing ourselves with all that delicious Leckerli had killed our appetite a bit so we wanted a light bite to eat so the moment when we saw the sign of Tapas del Mar, we decided to give it a try. ( Nice gaggle of locals were drinking wine on their outdoor terrace so that  gave us some confidence. ) Everything we ordered here was tasty- classic Pulpo alla Gallega, Salmorejo- cold tomato soup from Andalucia ( perfect for a hot day), Patatas Bravas and Boquerones en Vinagre– fresh anchovies, marinated in vinegar. Really good quality food, good service. Prices here are not cheap but in Basel, we came to expect that.

Johann Wanner Christmas Store

I lived in Edinburgh for many years and one of the novelties you can find in the city is not one but three year round Christmas shops. However in terms of scale and variety, this shop ( just around the corner from Tapas del Mar ) was astounding. I don’t think I’ve ever been to Xmas shop like this. If you are the person who lives and dreams of Xmas, then you will love this place.

Wickelfisching in Basel

Tubing down the Rhine with the iconic Wickelfisch

Card: Favourite thing to do in Basel

Tip from Basel, Tourist Information Point

In the summer, the most popular thing that locals do to relax, cool down in the heat is to go for a swim down the Rhine river. Everytime we walked down Kleinbasel , we saw people of all ages drifting down the river. Most people use their“Wickelfisch” , a swim bag where they can store their clothes and valuables securely, to float down on the gentle current through the city. Plenty of places on Kleinbasel to dry yourself. I was super impressed at the number of showers and toilet facilities along the river- this city really knows how to enjoy summer. Plus, don’t forget all the marvellous buvettes for enjoying an ice cold drink. Note: Sometimes the current can be pretty strong so it is advisable to check conditions before you go for a dip- Basel tourism website is a good place to check.

Sabrina and Martina

Klybeck /Kleinhuningen

Card: Surprise Us

Tip from Marina

Many locals we met including the lovely Marina we met at Flores recommended to visit the port area. On the list of places here, the popular Nordstern club was mentioned a few times but sadly we didn’t have time to visit this iconic club on the water.

After the hustle and bustle of Kleinbasel, there was a very calming and haunting feel about the whole port area. It was very quiet on the Monday evening we visited. The only thing breaking the silence were the odd comings and goings of boats passing through the canal and the odd seagull mooching on the boats moored by the dock. Maybe it is something about me and the sea or it could have been the surrounding age old industrial ambience that brought on an intense pang of nostalgia. I suddenly had an urge to hop on one of the boats and take off.

Sandoase bar facing onto the Dreiländereck

This desire for exploration and adventure maybe also because of the location, for here in the harbour, specifically you will find the Dreilandereck , an concordesque upright statue that marks the point where Switzerland, Germany and France meet. You can observe it from the Sandoase bar ( tip from Anne, Silo ) , toes in the sand with a beer in hand, at this classic summer beach bar. ( ..which transforms into a cosy winter village later in the year I’ve been told )

Grenzwert

Grenzwert

Card: A bar where locals go

Tip from Martin, School und Rauch

We finished off our trip with delicious cocktails at Grenzwert -excellent tip from Martin. The bar has a nice relaxed almost speakeasy style ambience. Precovid, the bar was hosting more live music events so keep an eye out on their Facebook page when you are in town.

Verdict

Overall, both me and Sabrina found it quite a liberating and interesting experience exploring Basel with the help of our card game. I was really impressed with the quality of the tips and the enthusiasm of locals when we approached them with the idea. We did have the odd local who wasn’t too keen but overall the experience was positive. I had a few lovely emails from the people we spoke to asking how we got on and also telling us how much they loved the idea of the card game.

Few negatives. We did get lost a lot. Old fashioned map bailed us out a few times and we had to ask locals for help with directions. Apps like Google Maps make you so self reliant and travel easy…without access to them felt at times quite stressful, especially in a new city. However on the other side, the aimless wondering of finding a place made us slow down a bit , get lost a bit and that’s how we stumbled upon spots like Tapas del Mar and also the Xmas shop for example. I think once we got used to the idea of not using the phone, we found it more easier but your brain gets so wired….Sometimes, during busier times of the day like lunchtime we found it hard to find locals to talk to, especially on weekends. We realised that sometimes, you just have to give into the flow and just follow your nose, gut feeling when you explore a new city. That’s when you have a real adventure or misadventure. We probably would have never visited the Paper Mill and St Alban area if we knew it was closed but then again we loved wondering through the area in the solitude of the early morning hours.

Would I do this again? Yes. I’d love to discover a new city and play the game. However, I think I would need to make some small amendments to the cards.

The toughest part of the challenge is getting out of your shell, having the guts to talk to a stranger.  It is not an art that comes easily to me. I think it is something a lot of people struggle with when on holiday or even at home. So if you are considering a lo-fi, non tech, no guidebook vacation and just depending on locals , here are some tips to get you started when it comes to talking to a local.

How to speak to a local

Rules of engagement with locals vary from country to country but here are a few basic tips to get you started

1. Master a few key local phrases

Few basic phrases can make such a difference when breaking the ice. Learning the local equivalent of “Hello’ ‘Thank You’ , ‘Good Morning” , ‘Do you speak English’ and ‘Where is a good place to drink beer’ is sometimes all you need to get by.

2. Be expressive

If you are struggling to find the right words or don’t know the local lingo expressive body language can make a big difference. A smile always helps to break the ice and endear yourself immediately to most people. Simple gestures like mimicking to take a drink might seem ridiculous or banal to you but can make a huge difference and get the conversation rolling.

3. Checkout local events

Sometimes, it can be tough in certain countries to casually chat to strangers. It helps to join an event like maybe a food tour or wine tasting or a cooking class or even a quiz night at the local to get the chance to meet a local. People will be more relaxed and open and this is where you’re likely to have a more meaningful interaction.

4. Go to locals only places

Your best bet to finding locals on your trip is to try and frequent bars or restaurants which are popular with locals. Some of these places tend me to be away from the centre of town and embedded in one of the neighbourhoods of the city so don’t be afraid to spread out, get off the beaten path a little. Ask at your hotel or hostel reception for tips for the most local friendly neighbourhoods. Once I have a sense of which area or part of town is popular with locals, I’ll often go for a little run in the area to get a feel of the city. Running first thing in the morning is great for so many things including getting a pulse of a city.

5. Go where you can see locals

My rule for a good place, usually filled with locals is to see if there is a clear glass where you can casually checkout the vibe from outside and also smell the food. Also, if you see the menu in English outside, I tend to give it a miss.

Buy the game?

The Locals Know It Best, Basel card game can be purchased with a free city map at the Tourist Information office in the Stadtcasino, Basel. Click here to buy the game.

You can also drop me a line kash@budgettraveller.org if you would like to buy a copy of the game.

Where to stay in Basel: Silo Hostel

Situated in the up-and-coming hip neighborhood of Erlenmatt Ost within walking distance of the Badischer Bahnhof, this design and culture hostel with restaurant is located inside a former grain warehouse of the city of Basel that was renovated in 2020 by the architect, Harry Gugger. Spread across three floors the hostel has a fantastic in house restaurant, three meeting rooms plus a hostel with 10 dorms and 10 doubles. The menu at restaurant is varied with excellent all day breakfasts plus everything from homemade soup, salads to pasta , grilled local fish or their signature pork ribs. It is a bit pricey for a hostel but the quality of the food here was amazing so keep that in mind. The rooms are spacious and well spaced out with very comfy beds plus the shared facilities-showers and bathrooms are very clean and stylish. The staff are super helpful and friendly so you will be well looked after by Christian and his team.

Special thanks

The Locals Know it Best, Basel Edition card game was produced in partnership with Basel Tourismus. Huge thank you to Isidora Rudolph and everyone at Basel Tourismus for supporting the idea and making it reality.. Also a huge thank you to all the amazing Basel locals who we met and took part- Julie from Bug a Thai, Sacha Kohler from Kunstmuseum  Basel, Martina, Flo from Za Zaa, Martin+Ann+Christian- Silo Hostel, Martin-Schall & Rauch, Robert from Grenzwert for sharing your beautiful city with us and being part of our little card game.

Best things to do in Bochum

Credit: Karlheinz Jardner

1. German Mining Museum 

Address: Am Bergbaumuseum 28, 44791 Bochum

What to see in Bochum? The German Mining Museum in Bochum is a good start. The largest museum of its kind in the world and is devoted to the history and development of mining in the region. It is also a well respected mining research centre where the key focus is mining history. Above the ground there are various fascinating exhibits that demonstrate mining techniques and history. Below ground there is a reconstruction of  a mine that can be a wonderful experience to gain first hand knowledge of the process. The museum attracts a high footfall and has become a popular destination for tourists visiting this area. 

2. Bochum Dahlhausen Railway Museum

Address: Dr.-C.-Otto-Straße 191, 44879 Bochum

The Bochum Dahlhausen Railway Museum in the suburb of Dahlhausen is home to the largest museum of its kind in Germany. It is a wonderful place for railway and steam locomotive fans to step back in history and experience the bygone days of train travel. The museum was founded in 1977 and is located on an erstwhile railway depot built in 1916. The museum occupies a staggering 46000 square metres. Highlights of a visit here include a central engine shed with 14 tracks, cooling, watering and sanding facilities and a preserved turntable. The museum is part of the Ruhr Industrial Heritage trail. In the summer time there are organised train trips along with the occasional opportunity to board a steam train. This is a wonderful chance to nostalgically step back in time and experience train travel history in an unforgettable way.

Prices: Tickets are €10 for adults and kids, 6-14 pay €5

Note: Museum is closed for the winter season and reopens on 1st March, 2023.

Zeiss Planetarium in Bochum Foto: Lutz Leitmann/Stadt Bochum

3. Planetarium Bochum

Address: Castroper Str. 67, 44791 Bochum

Bochum Planetarium is a great place to learn about the stars and watch various fascinating shows about astronomy. The Zeiss Planetarium Bochum opened in 1964 and has a spectacular 20 metre diameter dome to project shows onto the dome roof. 260 people at a time can watch projections of the stars in the night sky and the entire atmosphere feels very special. Around the projection hall, there is a circular corridor that contains various exhibits of interest. Tickets to shows are 9.50 euros with reduced ticket rates available for children, students, apprentices, the handicapped, unemployed, volunteers and holders of a discount card among others. 

4. Catch a game at Vonovia Ruhrstadion

What do in Bochum on a weekend ? Well, if you are looking for something different and a great matchday experience, then Bochum who got promoted to the Bundesliga this year, are worth looking into. Matchday tickets starts from just €13. ( Checkout the official website:  – VfL BOchum offers day-tickets – fans have to check this site or instagram ). Also worth noting that transport is free on matchday in the Rhein-Ruhr area with the match ticket (the stadium is about a 20 minute walk from the city centre or a few stops on the U-Bahn). The stadium and the club itself has a really traditional feel to them and in my opinion that makes it more interesting to go and see a game here. Atmosphere is fantastic. Teams enter the pitch to “Tief im Westen” (in the deep west) song by local German superstar Herbert Groenemeyer. 

Capacity of the stadium is 28000. It is like a typical British stadium, the 4 stands enclose the ground and let you be really close to the pitch. They serve the local Fiege brew for a mere €4.2 for a half pint.

5. Checkout Bochum’s coolest neighbourhood- Ehrenfeld 

Similar to Dortmund’s Kreuzviertel, the hip neighbourhood of Ehrenfeld is a must visit – pop into one of the cool cafes, have a stroll through the streets, explore some of the independent shops and stop for a drink in one of the area’s many fine bars. Pop into the colourful Fräulein Coffea (Oskar-Hoffmann-Straße 34, 44789 Bochum) where you’ll find locals reading the paper or catching up with friends over their excellent coffee and range of cakes (vegan options too).

If you’re looking for original gift ideas from local designers, the cosy concept store, stueckgut ( Königsallee 12, 44789 Bochum) is worth a visit. You will find selected range of local brands, small fashion and clothing accessories and even sustainable and vegan backpacks. 

Walking around Ehrenfeld you will also notice a rich collection of fantastic street art which was the legacy of the Street Art Festival “WRIGHT” which was organized by the local Sold Out Gallery.

On Alte Hattinger Straße, on the left hand side of the cool concept store, Die Kulturtasche ( Alte Hattinger Straße 11), you will find  Zone 56’s meditation on the world of cyber and nature.

Just above Die Kulturtasche  you will find the three dimensionally beautiful work of André Silva aka TRAFIC, a Dortmund based street artist, with Portuguese roots and unmistakable handwriting.

For more about street art in Bochum, hop to this blogpost (it is in German).

6. Visit the Bermuda3eck, the action packed nightlife hotspot

With over 80 bars, cafes and restaurants, the Bermuda3Eck has been THE place to party in the Ruhr Valley. Especially when the weather is nice, you will find the party spilling from the bar terraces onto the street which gives the vibe of a big open air party.

In the Bermuda3eck you have to stop for a beer at Pinte Bochum  (Kortumstraße 11) a popular place for football fans before or after the match. It is the smallest pub in Bochum but in terms of atmosphere, range of local beers and service, one of the best.

If you’re more of a wine lover, then you should pay a visit to Le Kork Wine Bar (Konrad-Adenauer-Platz 3 44787). If you want to spend a few hours of wine tasting then you will love this  concept — load up a prepaid credit from €5 to €50 (if there is any money left, you get it back) depending on how much you want to drink and then tap your card and choose from 84 high class international wines which the help of their innovative self service wine dispensers.

7. Bonus tip: Do not leave Bochum without eating here

While Berlin may claim to have invented the Currywurst , in the Ruhr Valley, the food has iconic status and is THE pre and post match snack for football fans. Best place to try it here? The cult local butcher, Dönninghaus from Bochum, which was founded in 1935 by Otto Dönninghaus, is probably the best in the Ruhr area for the classic bratwurst with its iconic curry sauce whose composition is a carefully guarded family secret.

Further resources

For more ideas of things to do Bochum and the Ruhr Valley, checkout the Ruhr Valley Tourism website. If you are planning a football themed break to Bochum and the Ruhr Valley, checkout the Ruhr Fussball website.

If you are planning a long weekend in the area, you may want to checkout my recent guide to the best things to do in Dortmund

This post was produced in partnership with Germany Tourism and Ruhr Fussball project but the views represented here are my own.

I’ve had the pleasure of living in Germany on and off for 9 years now. I’m proud to call it home nowadays. One of the question I often get from friends visiting is what popular German food and dishes they should try when they visit. I’ll admit, initially I wasn’t the biggest fan of German food culture. My idea of traditional foods in Germany, ( much to Sabrina’s frustration ) was rostbratwurst ( roasted sausages) , sauerkraut and fried potatoes- a dish I still love. The general perception of the most typical German dish is still very much the plate of food they would eat at Oktoberfest or currywurst. Reality is that German food is much more varied , weird with lots of interesting variations from region to region. Yes, there are potatoes almost with everything but then again, all the best things in life must have potatoes-am I right? ( and rice ) I’d like to demystify German cuisine and help you get a better understanding of the variety it has to offer and what better way to introduce you to German cuisine by talking about all the weird traditional food dishes you can order in Germany and where you can eat them.

1.Bremer Knipp

I’ll start the series of weird traditional German food with the Bremer Knipp, a sausage meat that comes from the Hanseatic town of Bremen. The sausage, available in the form of a stick (‘stange’) or roll (‘rolle’) is a hybrid of minced pork belly, head and rind, that is mixed with oatmeal to give it a heartier texture. All spice, salt and pepper and herbs can add layers of flavour to the Knipp.

Bremer Knipp at the Schüttinger Gasthausbrauerei ( Sorry for the poor image quality. Taken with my iPhone 4 when I visited Bremen back in 2012! I need to return ….)

The Bremer Knipp may look a tad unappealing ( bit like its Scottish cousin, Haggis) but when fried in butter and thickly applied to a generous hunk of wholemeal bread, can make for a delicious and filling dish.

The Knipp can be eaten with roast or boiled potatoes. Alternatively, pickled gherkins or apple sauce can add a piquant touch to this meaty repast.

Where to eat Bremer Knipp

Pop into Schüttinger Gasthausbrauerei in Bremen for the Bremer Knipp and wash it down with their delicious brewed beer. From 5 till 8pm they run a happy hour where you get small glasses ( 100 ml) of beer for €1 and the Maß (1l) for 5€!

Curious to read more about Bremen-checkout this guide to Bremen I wrote from my first trip to the city back in 2012.

2.Currywurst

Currywurst at Curry 61!

Currywurst is the unexpected but not unappealing marriage of the German Bratwurst sausage and ketchup doused with Indian curry powder. The dish was the brainchild of a Berlin lady, Herta Heuwer, who started selling this unusual dish from a street stand in Berlin’s Charlottenburg district. The sausages were boiled and fried and then smothered in a tomato ketchup seasoned with curry powder, obtained by British soldiers. This sauce, named ‘Chillup’ was later patented by Heuwer. The cheap and delicious street snack was popular with construction workers whose task it was to rebuild the city after the ravages of the Second World War. At the peak of its popularity, the street stand was serving up 10,000 portions every week and later, due to popular demand, was turned into a more permanent restaurant. A plaque in Charlottenburg, stands to this day, engraved with the name of the lady responsible for feeding hoards of people involved with reviving the city of Berlin.

Where to eat currywurst in Berlin

My go to place for currywurst in Berlin is Curry 61 in Hackescher Markt. They also have a vegan version plus their fries are not too shabby.

3. Schweinshaxe (German Pork Knuckle)

Schweinshaxe is undoubtedly pork meat but when the fine mound of meat is presented on your plate, you might be curious to find out which part of the pig, the impressive joint of meat is derived from.

‘Schweinshaxe’ is nothing but roasted ham hock. The hock is the lower extremity of the pig’s leg, just above the ankle but not including the juicy and meaty ham portion. In anatomical terms, it’s the part of the hog’s leg in between tibia fibula and metatarsals.

The pork hock was originally a popular peasant’s meal, where cuts that were not as palatable or tender as the juicy joints of the pig were prepared at low cost. Marinated for longer periods to render the meat soft and cooked for longer, ‘Schweinshaxe’ can be eaten with potatoes and cabbage on the side. For a perfect ‘Schweinshaxe’, the knuckle has to be roasted for hours to crisp, crackling perfection. Doused with heaps of gravy, this can make for a memorable meal. Just don’t feel intimidated by the generous size of the meat.

Where to eat Schweinshaxe

In Bavaria you can have excellent ‘Schweinshaxe’ at the Augustiner Braustuben ( Landsberger Str 19, Munich )

Labskaus, Im Alten Zolln, Lubeck

4. Labskaus

This culinary specialty from the north of Germany (particularly Bremen, Lubeck and Hamburg) used to be a poor person’s food: leftovers — corned beef, beets, onions, boiled potatoes — are mashed together. The resulting puree is not very appetizing-looking, but at least it’s partly hidden under a fried egg, served with herring and pickles. As unusual as it sounds, the dish is having a revival — Labskaus is now served in fancy restaurants.

Historically, the dish was popular among sailors in the big northern port cities, in particular. Potatoes and salted meat would keep well on voyages and the addition of potatoes would enlarge portion size of the meal and be filling. The dish has many regional variations. Even outside the country it can be compared to British hash, various Scandinavian variants utilizing local ingredients like herring instead of beef for instance.

Where to eat Labskaus

Head to the Lübeck institution, Im Alten Zolln which has been serving locals since 1589. Try their Labskaus or pickled herring with fried potatoes and onions in cream sauce. Pair it with the local Jever or Haake Beer.

5. Raw minced pork sandwich (Mettbrötchen)

Mett is a spiced, minced pork preparation which is eaten raw. The raw part of the description is most unusual and to my mind honestly quite concerning, but in Germany it is a popular dish with the mett served up in many forms. Typically, the minced pork is spread over a roll of bread and is called ‘Mettbrötchen’ with raw onions as garnish. Sometimes, the minced pork can be moulded into the shape of a hedgehog, with olive shaped eyes and nose and quarter rings of onions as hedgehog spikes. The pork hedgehog or ‘Mettigel’ is a centrepiece at buffets sometimes. Despite the fact that the meat is eaten raw, there are health and safety practices enforced regarding the serving of the Mett. These include not allowing the temperature of the food to exceed 2 degrees Celsius, the pork being processed in a state of semi-frozen ness and the food having to be consumed on the day of production.

Where to eat Mettbrötchen

I always enjoy snacking at Mettbrötchen at any of the outlets of Junge Die Bäckerei, popular bakery that you will find in most cities in Northern Germany which include, Lubeck, Hamburg and also Berlin.

If you are visiting Berlin Spargel season, nip into the Mars Restaurant in Berlin’s Wedding district where they serve a fantastic Asparagus Tagiatelle 

6. Spargel

‘Spargel’ or the German White Asparagus might not look so appetizing, but trust me when I say it is worthy of its accolade of ‘white gold’ in the vegetable kingdom. There’s a good reason why it is considered ‘white gold’. The reason is that the rather limp looking morsels of white asparagus have a milder flavour than green asparagus, with a delightful tender texture that pairs well with a rich smothering of sauce, preferably hollandaise. The spargel are slightly sweet to eat with a hint of bitterness. The asparagus is typically grown covered in soil to prevent photosynthesis – hence the absence of green colouring. Eat Spargel with a rich sauce, a nice side of Black Forest Ham, potatoes or even thinly sliced boiled eggs. Spargel is deserving of its name ‘white gold’. If you can buy the vegetable pre-peeled then that saves on the preparation time. Enjoy Spargel in soups, salads as appetizer or mains.

Where to eat Spargel in Berlin

Spargel season starts in April in Germany and lasts till June.  If you are visiting Berlin during Asparagus season do visit the Mars Restaurant in Berlin’s Wedding district ( checkout my Berlin Wedding guide ) and also checkout the Visit Berlin blog for their 11 tips for restaurants that serve white asparagus in season.

Disclaimer- This post was in partnership with Germany Tourism and Traverse as part of a campaign to promote German Local Culture. If you want to dig deeper into German Food Culture, have a peek at their site