As they would say in Scotland, it was blowing a hoolie on the North Sea. After being tossed around all night like tiddlywinks in rough seas, by the time we approached dawn, the waves flatlined and a calm, cold blue eyed morning greeted us as the DFDS cruise rolled into Newcastle. 

So yeah. Why the hell am I here? (other than the pure love of slow travel and storms at sea) Well, I was on the verge of a footballing pilgrimage of sorts, to some of the greatest football cities of Great Britain.

I would start first in Glasgow, then Newcastle, then onto the great rivals of Newcastle – Sunderland, then onto Liverpool and finally Manchester. So, a distinctly northern flavour. Over the course of a week, I had one key aim – to decipher what makes football so great in Britain and why people are so mad about this beautiful game.

I think I should start by asking myself.

Why is football so special to me?

I grew up near Manchester in a place called Oldham. And in the late eighties, Liverpool was the team. There was only Liverpool and Everton. Manchester United and Manchester City were in the doldrums. 

Plus, it was the era of Barnes, Dalglish and Rush. These were the 3 most fearsome forwards of their era. Then we had Alan Hansen in defence. It was a great Liverpool team to watch.

I think I was 6 years old when I watched the Merseyside derby on TV. I was immediately hooked, and I’ve never looked back since. It’s been a lifelong addiction and passion. I think briefly when I went to India, I lost the passion and became hooked on cricket. However, the moment I set foot back on British soil and went to university in Scotland, I started watching Liverpool again, and it just came flooding back. The passion, the love of the game. It was always there.

Since leaving Britain in 2012 and embarking on my nomadic journeys across the world, football has been my lifeline to Great Britain, to my identity of being British. Wherever I go in the world, I try to watch the Liverpool games at supporters clubs around the world. I’ve made so many friends thanks to following Liverpool. However the best thing, when I see Anfield on TV and I hear the anthem, You’ll Never Walk Alone, it just brings back all the memories of my childhood and all the emotions, the face of my father and friends I have met along the way. Football is my connection to Britain and to me. After the disillusion of Brexit, this trip would be a way of reconnecting with my British roots and a more innocent, version of myself.

1. Glasgow

‘Some people think football is a matter of life and death. I don’t like that attitude. I can assure them it is much more serious than that” 

Bill Shankly

I start my pilgrimage way up north on the south side of Glasgow. It is a typical wet, dreich day. The faint drizzle gets heavier as a thick gust swirls across the thick clumps of uneven turf and eats into our skin. There is no protection from the elements. We are standing on the edge of the Queens Park Recreational Ground. To most casual observers or passers by this would be the most nondescript field and patch of grass, except that this is no ordinary field. The haloed piece of turf is where THE first game of football was ever played, back in the Victorian era.

Just a few steps away, we walk upto the Queens Park Bowling Club, which at first sight, may not look much, but you are now looking at the worlds first ever purpose built football stadium that could hold 20,000 back in its day. These are just one of the many amazing facts you will discover on the incredible Three Hampdens  Tour, led by the warm, articulate and passionate Lindsey Hamilton.

‘If you ever go to the Fifa museum in Zurich, you will see them say that the history of football started in 1864 with the formation of the Football Association which is the English football association. We would argue that the game started well before that, here in Scotland, not a bunch of English guys in a pub!’

Lindsey Hamilton, Glasgow Football Tours

We hop across the road to the second Hampden Park stadium, which most people will know as Cathkin Park, once home to Third Lanark FC. 

The park, while still in use for local community football is barricaded on all sides. It might have been the weather but I felt very sad, at the dilapidated state of what was once the Scottish national football stadium, the terraces surrounding it, now thick with overgrown weeds, nature having replaced the vast empty spaces. 

Cathkin Park is a parable of what football has become. While at the top of the pyramid, rich clubs thrive in the era of hyper-commercialisation raking in billions of revenue from everything from naming rights to t-shirt sales, you have on the flip side, hundreds of historic clubs, community clubs that are on the verge of bankruptcy and extinction. Is the beautiful game is in danger of losing its spirit and soul? Still, with all its good and bad, many will argue that football has an important role to play in today’s society.

Cathkin Park is home to the Jimmy Johnstone Academy, a local community grassroots football club. While visiting Cathkin Park we were fortunate to visit the academy and learn about their various projects that include Freedom from torture, where former torture survivors who recently have arrived in Scotland have the opportunity to play football and rebuild their lives and improve overall mental wellbeing. I had the chance to sit down with Rabin Omar, a professional football player who has also been here working with the Jimmy Johnson Academy since he was 13 years old. I was curious to hear his perspective of local football culture 

‘I mention passion but football is more of a religion here in Glasgow. You see how locals follow their team, week in week out and how it sort of flows through their life on a daily basis. They will live, breathe and think about their clubs most of the day.’

Rabin Omar

Lindsey agreed with Rabin on how football is a metaphor for life in Glasgow. 

‘I think in Glasgow, it’s been ingrained in us since the beginning of time. We are obsessed with football. I think it comes from the fact that it is just such an easy sport for people to go to, just start playing in a park, and it just kinda grew from there.

I think football is just life for me as a Glaswegian. Like, I don’t mean that in, like, a whimsical sense. I mean, like, it’s ups and downs, the same way that life is. And that’s how I always see things, you know. I literally live my life, if I’m having a tough day, tough morning, or even something annoying has happened. I’m like, give me 2 halves. And it’s like a reset. You just go again.’

Lindsey Hamilton

The tour appropriately finishes with a pint of the local Tennents at the fantastic Rose Reilly Pub, a pub dedicated to Scotland’s sole World Cup winner.

Tourist essentials

You can book Lindsey Hamilton’s brilliant Three Hampdens Walking Tours via her website. Tours last 2 hours and cost £15 for adults and £5 for kids.

Just like football, the weather in Glasgow was a game of 2 halves. Morning, absolutely shite, drizzling rain and grey, afternoon – blue skies and beautiful sunshine. It was perfect weather for a wander through the west end of Glasgow. Packed with vintage shops, art galleries, fabulous restaurants, a great bar scene and some breathtaking architecture, the West End of Glasgow is a must on any visit to Glasgow. Definitely make time for the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum (Argyle Street), probably the best free museum in Scotland and the UK, from its Ancient Egyptian artefacts to amazing animal displays. If you are a Liverpool fan and looking to watch their games, hop later to The Record Factory (17 Byres Road ), which is the home of Liverpool fans in Glasgow. Great atmosphere, nice staff plus reduced drinks prices during the games. If you are hungry and looking for some scran, you can hop into the University Cafe (87 Byres Rd) few doors away where you can get your fish and chips (£7.50) fix or if you dare, follow in the footsteps of Anthony Bourdian and try the deep fried Mars Bar, £3.50 ) and deep fried egg. Or you could sample another iconic Scottish dish, Haggis Neeps (turnip) and Tatties (potato- £13.95, vegan version available) at Rab Ha’s (83 Hutcheson Street) in Merchant City.”Rab Ha”, short for Robert Hall, lived in the area in the 19th century and was infamous for his love of fine food, earning him the moniker, the Glasgow Glutton!

2. Newcastle

‘Unlike other towns and cities in the UK, our stadium is right in the city centre so it forms part of the fabric of the city, not just metaphorically but literally.’

Eddy Hope, Tyneside Life

When you come to Newcastle, the first thing I notice is how the city revolves around the stadium, St James Park which is slap bang in the heart of the city. It literally takes us a 15 minute walk to reach the stadium from the train station. Along the way, we visit a terrific football memorabilia shop, The Back Page, on St Andrew’s Street. If you want to get a first hand taste of Newcastle Geordie culture and an insight into the history of the city, the club, then this shop/fans museum is an essential stop. 

The scale of the passion and support for the club becomes apparent to me when I see the number of bars and pubs. Newcastle enjoys the highest concentration of football pubs within a half mile radius of any football stadiums in Britain – 108 to be precise.

We visit a few of them, the Newcastle Arms and another local favourite, Rosie. We make a quick pitstop at the German inspired beerhall, Wunderbar, which is an enormous venue and then finish at probably the most famous Newcastle supporters bar of the lot – The Strawberry, which has been sitting right across from the stadium since 1859. The pub truly reflects local devotion to the black and white stripes, with pictures of Newcastle footballers past and present. If you can’t get match day tickets, the next best thing is to watch the game at the Strawberry. You will hear the roar of football fans from the pub and if the team wins, then it will be utter bedlam in the pub.

For football fans the 1.5-hour tour of St. James Park is must. Spend time going behind the scenes of where the real matches take place at the park. Gain access to areas that aren’t normally open to anyone but players, coaches, and officials. Get a chance to slip into the media suite, and see where players and managers are interviewed before and after games. Plus, you can even sit in your favourite players spot in the home locker room.

Tourist essentials

Obviously beyond St James Park, there are the various statues outside it (Shearer, Bobby Robson, Jackie Milburn), and the little Alder Sweeney memorial garden to remember the two fans who died on the MH17 flight. 

Then there’s The Strawberry pub which I mentioned, just opposite the ground which is a traditional meeting point for fans.

There’s a terrific football memorabilia shop, The Back Page, just a stone’s throw away, on St Andrew’s Street. There’s a couple of wall murals, one off Northumberland Street, celebrating NUFC legends, and one on Morden Street, remembering Ish Bamba, a project worker for the Newcastle United Foundation. And finally there’s the Castle Keep itself, from which the football club takes its logo.

Other essentials. Do make time to visit the stunning Grey Street which has some of the finest examples of Georgian era architecture anywhere in Britain and was named after former Prime Minister Earl Grey, yes the very same person who was responsible for introducing Earl Grey tea to the country. Go for a walk along the Quayside, if time permits pop into the BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art and also to nearby Ouseburn Valley, once the cradle of the industrial revolution on Tyneside and now a hub for the creative arts and also home to several outstanding independent pubs where you can sample great food, find live music and comedy acts throughout the week.

Finish off with dinner at the Thai House Cafe ( 93 Clayton Street ) in the city centre. Food portions are huge, all mains are below a tenner and the quality of food, and taste was outstanding. Sabrina tried their beef noodle soup and broth which was excellent, beef well cooked and tender while I had their massaman curry which was flavourful and so tasty. 

3. Sunderland

All the great sports are defined by their intense rivalries. In Britain, especially in the industrial heartlands, the rivalries take on a life of their own, fuelled by a heady cocktail of history, geography, and sheer passion. While many may argue Rangers – Celtic to be the most intense rivalries, the two cities of Sunderland and Newcastle upon Tyne, separated by 12 miles (19 km), can lay claim to be one of British football’s harshest rivalries. The history of the Tyne – Wear derby is a modern-day extension of a rivalry between the two cities that harks back to the English Civil War merchants in Sunderland became a Parliamentarian stronghold in protest against the advantages enjoyed by their counterparts in Royalist Newcastle.

While it was almost impossible to get hold of tickets in Newcastle live (or any Premier League club unless you want to pay €€€€ ), I did manage to get tickets for a Sunderland match, thanks to a partnership between the club and DFDS Seaways. The two clubs have enjoyed contrasting fortunes with Sunderland suffering successive relegations while Newcastle’s fortunes have soared with the recent Saudi takeover. A short hop by train from Newcastle, the match day experience was a refreshing break from the razzmatazz of Premier league football. We land at noon and head to probably the most legendary of all Sunderland pubs, The Colliery Tavern. 

On match day it gets lively early on with lots of passionate locals piling in for a few pints. We grabbed a pint of Carling and found ourselves chatting soon to Guido and Bastian from Germany who had come to see the match. Both passionate football fans, they love to catch football games across various countries in Europe. When I asked them if they had a favourite country for watching football besides Germany they mentioned Britain.

‘The history of the clubs here, the culture surrounding it, the passionate fans, the quality of football and the locals create a special atmosphere which is something we can relate to.’

They had been really impressed with the friendliness of locals and fans in Sunderland, something we quickly noticed. After a few pints in the Colliery, we headed to the legendary Fans Museum. Located in what was a derelict, former train station, the Fans Museum, the brainchild of Michael Ganley is not your archetypical fan museum. Michael has amassed an extensive collection of Sunderland football memorabilia and even football shirts worn by Maradona and Beckham. The shirts are not just there to be seen. Families, children come in every day asking Michael to wear a football shirt of one of their icons, to which he happily obliges. The museum also shows football matches and on match day is packed to the rafters with often 3 generations of families gathered in the space. 

I come away impressed with the strong sense of community spirit in Sunderland. While the team continues to struggle, the dedication of the fans remains unquestioned. If there was an award for the most passionate fans, Sunderland fans would definitely be up there with the best fans in Britain.

I ask Michael how he would sum up his club in one word and he mentioned a word, I would hear a lot from fans that week.

‘Passion! If I would sum up my club in one word I would use something written on the back of my shirt- Passion. It’s passion. Passion in belief. Passion in disbelief, but it all comes under one roof. Whatever the outcome of today, there is always tomorrow and that’s the passion. We never walk away from our beliefs and our true love, really and that’s how you would sum our football club and city.’

Michael Ganley, The Fans Museum

Sunderland lost 1-0 to Millwall that day. It was not the greatest game to watch. One of the highlights was half time grub when I treated myself to chips with curry sauce. So good. 

Still, people. I left with only the best memories of all the warm, friendly passionate locals we met.

Tourist Essentials

The Nexus Tyne and Wear Metro provides a service between Newcastle upon Tyne to Sunderland every twenty minutes. Board a train heading in the direction of South Hylton and disembark at Sunderland or directly at the Stadium of Light.

4. Liverpool

“Liverpool is the pool of life, it makes to live.”

Carl Jung

Liverpool. I emerge from the train station, serenaded by seagulls, the air smelling of diesel, fish and tar. In the distance I can see the dark greyish blue blur of the Mersey, swirling amongst the skyline of the famous waterfront architecture. Even though I have never lived in Liverpool, it feels like home. I have the same sense of familiarity when I visit Hamburg. Maybe, I have a thing for port cities. Places where you have a bit of grit rubbed in with some glamour. After dropping off our bags I go for walk around the city centre and waterfront. Liverpool One. The spectacular array of old and new architecture that is concentrated around the dock that would be the envy of any modern city.

Then there is the Beatles connection. We pop into the Beatles Story Museum. From childhood lives to their first hellos, at the Beatles Story Museum you can learn about the band’s life before their glory days. Spot the stars as young boys in black and white family photographs. See the instruments from their early days – when their passion for music first ignited. Look back at their transformative years when they took to the stage as the modest Quarrymen before blossoming into the Beatles.  It’s packed with memorabilia, such as John Lennon’s glasses, Ringo’s drums and George’s first guitar, as well as recreations of key locations like The Casbah and Cavern Club and Abbey Road Studios. 

I pause for a moment to enjoy the architecture of the Museum of Liverpool which was designed to resemble the trading ships that once dominated the harbour. At the far end of the waterfront, I find the beautiful bronze statue of the four Beatles standing in front of the majestic Royal Liver Building, once the tallest building in Europe. From the waterfront, it is a short walk through the fabulous Liverpool One before reaching the most iconic street of the city, Matthew Street. It is a narrow alleyway that was once bustling with tradesman. However, in recent decades it became a hub of nightlife and home to the most iconic Cavern Club, where the Beatles had their first break. The club hosts a roster of live bands from 11am everyday and is a must see when in Liverpool. Entry tickets cost just 5 pounds. 

Liverpool’s other legendary export is of course football. Every club boasts that their fans are the best and after meeting fans from Glasgow, Newcastle and Sunderland, it is tough to argue against that but… Liverpool fans are truly a unique species. The first and only time I went to see a game at Anfield, the noise in the terraces was something different. Everywhere I walked in the city, there was a buzz about the place and the club… you can feel the passion of the fans. There is a strong sense of identity, set of values that comes with being a Liverpool supporter. Fans are proud of the club’s working-class roots and the spirit of solidarity that characterises Liverpool as a city. I asked Liverpool superfan and Beatles tour guide, Dale Roberts about what makes Liverpool fans so special 

My city and my club is different. I don’t think there’s any city on earth like Liverpool. What makes Liverpool different is the fact that we’ve accepted difference. Liverpool is a melting pot of communities and cultures. There’s so many different types of people, so many different types of ideas. And I love the line that Gerry Marsden said, not in You’ll Never Walk Alone, but in Ferry Cross the Mersey. He has a line in the song, which is 

we don’t care what your name is, boy. 

We’ll never turn you away.’

Dale Roberts, Liverpool Eco Tours

And that epitomizes Liverpool for me.

Liverpool is all-embracing. It is all-encompassing, but it is different because it has its own unique ideology, it has its own unique culture, but it’s got that unique culture by accepting so much else.

The Anfield Stadium tour is a must as part of any pilgrimage to Liverpool, even if you’re not a die-hard football fan.

The guides with their razor sharp Scouse wit are entertaining and informative. Highlights of the tour of course include the chance to enjoy epic views of the Anfield pitch from the top level of the Main Stand, a visit to the state-of-the-art home team dressing room and of course the chance to walk through the players tunnel and pass, touch the iconic This is Anfield sign and get a photo in Klopp’s seat in the dugout. The tickets also include entry to the Club’s interactive museum – The Liverpool FC Story, with nearly 130 years of Club history plus all the silverware including all six European trophies. After the tour, I would also recommend a walk around Anfield to see all the beautiful murals of Liverpool players, past and present.

Tourist Essentials

For Beatles fans, two pubs I highly recommend (Cheers to Dale for the introduction) is the Ye Cracke (Rice Street), the pub that John Lennon used to frequent with his wife Cynthia when he was a student at the arts college around the corner of the pub. The walls are covered with Liverpool- and Beatles-themed paraphernalia alongside some local art of variable quality. When we visited, there were a few locals in but it was quiet, not many tourists. Second must visit pub, right from the Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra is the flamboyant ‘Phil’ aka The Philharmonic Dining Rooms (36 Hope Street) where Paul McCartney did a secret gig on the James Corden’s The Late Late Show and even Buddy Holly performed. It is a stunning wood panelled pub, with ornate furnishings and the most beautiful toilets you will ever see in a pub.

5. Manchester

Separated by just 35 miles, Manchester enjoys a lot of key similarities with Liverpool – striking architecture, rich musical heritage, tons of culture and things to do, great nightlife and of course their passion of football. Despite all their similarities, the rivalry between the cities, the clubs and the locals is fierce. Not as fierce as Glasgow but still, its a rivalry that defines the cities, especially given the rise of Manchester City over the last decade. The city is now home to not one but two of the biggest clubs in Britain and the world: Manchester United and Manchester City. Both share an intense rivalry with Liverpool but many would argue, including myself, that United remains Liverpool’s biggest rivals. The rivalry goes back decades and may have started with the building of the Manchester Ship Canal in 1894 or from the industrial era fallout between Mancunian industrialists and Liverpudlian merchants.

Personally, while I loathe both Manchester clubs as any Liverpool fan would, I love both cities. Having grown up near Manchester, a big part of my childhood was spent here. As our paths have diverged over the last few decades, on every visit, I see something new and leave amazed, always wanting to stay longer. One of the areas I love coming back to and rediscovering is the Northern Quarter, with its glut of creative and alternative flair that reminds me a bit of Kreuzberg or Shoreditch. We start with an incredible brunch at Pot Kettle Black, a northern take on Australian breakfast culture. The food, service is top notch and such a nice lively vibe – great place to start the day. We then pop into the fun and colourful fashion boutique, Thunder Egg whose clothing indulges in our nostalgia for trends from the past decades, from vintage frocks to noughties fashion trends. From there it is a short hop to the world famous Afflecks, which has been an outlet for independent designers and traders across four floors.

Since we are on a footballing pilgrimage, no trip to the Northern Quarter would be complete without a visit to Classic Football Shirts. What started as a challenge between two friends to source classic football shirts from the last few decades and sell them via internet, became a massive enterprise selling football shirts from across the world from the last 50 years.

Even though I no longer have a record player, I still love the old school and physical feeling of being in a music store, browsing records and listening to them on turntables before almost buying them – if that sounds like you then definitely pop into Piccadilly Records. The staff are super friendly and approachable. It is the kind of place where you get talking to people and that’s how we met the amazing Lydia Huna.

As a proud Mancunian and United fan I had to ask her what she loves about Manchester….

‘Community. I think my favourite thing is that despite all the changes that Manchester is undergoing, and a lot of those changes are not great. You know, they’re corporate and steeped in bureaucracy. I think my favourite thing is the history of community and, you know, the struggle that exists because of the north/south divide and the economic challenges that the north has sustained and faced for decades and decades and decades since forever, that gave people no choice but to congregate and be together and look at one another and come together. And, that ethos still runs true, and it pervades in, I think, most Manchester culture, all Mancunian culture, northern culture in general. Like, you just step into a shop like this, and immediately, like, you’re confronted with the culture, and the people. Like, I come in here and immediately start singing. I don’t even know what his name is. He just goes by Pasta Man. I don’t know what Pasta Man’s name is. I just think of him as Pasta Man. 

(Man behind counter: Oh, that’s Paul Pasta.)

….Oh, it’s Paul, Pasta Paul, oh, there we go. But, nevertheless, like, I’ll refer to people by their nicknames before their actual names because you’re confronted with that before anything else. And, just, yeah, like, the prevailing sense of, where these connections take you. Like, Matt works at White Hotel. He does like, runs gigs there. I’ve got a whole community of friends there. It’s so close knit. Some might say incestuous. Manchester is lovely. It is wonderful plus that was a very long answer.’

The topic then turned to football and I had to ask her how she fell in love with her club. 

‘They made a film called Bend It Like Beckham in the 90’s which is synonymous with my childhood like Man United. Like, those glorious summers and knowing that David Beckham was playing, I think that’s how I fell in love with it, but I also fell in love with it because my dad was a Man United fan. I think, through my dad and through the kids that I went to school with and playing football as a kid in the garden with my dad and, yeah, rocking a t shirt with a big 7 on the back of it.

Initially, the world was red. I am Manchester United through and through. We haven’t been doing so good in the Premier Leagues for some time now, but, nevertheless, it’s Manchester United till I die. And real Mancunians support United. Don’t listen to what those City boys say. It’s not true. ‘

Tourist Essentials

If you could not get tickets to the game but want to watch the football in a nice pub – I have 3 tips for you. Try the Tib Street Tavern (74 Tib Street) in Northern Quarter – good grub, ok priced drinks, BOX Deansgate (125 Deansgate) bit more modern, lots of screens and outdoor seating and finally The Lost Den (144 Deansgate), a warm and welcoming gastro pub right in the heart of Deansgate. Also if you are a Manchester United fan, you have to pop into The Old Nags Head (19 Jacksons Row) this is THE ‘George Best’ pub, lots of football memorabilia. Non football pubs that are definitely worth a visit are: The Peveril of the Peak and The Temple.

Also if you are United fan, definitely consider staying at Hotel Football, overlooking the Old Trafford stadium. Owned by former players Ryan Giggs, Paul Scholes, Nicky Butt, Phil Neville and Gary Neville, it has a rooftop 5-a-side football pitch, in-house restaurant and basement sports bar.

They have packages where for £109 ( £139, double occupancy) you can book a package which gives you a room in the hotel with Class of 92 themed toiletries & complimentary retro treats in the mini bar, 2 course dinner in their in-house restaurant and buffet breakfast.

Conclusion

Initially, this week my world was green or blue. Then black and white. Then red and white.Then red.Then red again.Then light blue.

One week. 5 cities. It was a breathless trip, maybe a little too rushed in the end. When we were hopping back on the plane, I had the feeling of wanting to stay longer. A pilgrim’s journey never ends. While it was hard to describe the emotions of all the places, all the people we met, the trip was definitely a reminder of the good stuff that makes Britain such a wonderful country to visit. Don’t believe the doom mongers. With all the ills and pains of Brexit, Britain remains a great place to visit. That is all thanks to the people, their warmth, the witty humour and of course, their passion.

Whatever you make of the divided loyalties, the tribalism, the religious zest,  the incestuous love for their clubs, after this trip, the one thing that for me stood out when I try to summarise football culture in Britain and all the people we met, was the sheer passion. A passion borne from generations of families supporting a club, a passion born from long hazy summers in the garden playing with their Dad, a passion born from the love of their community and how you stand together in the eye of any storm, the unswerving loyalty to your identity and that unspoken rule of staying true to who you are. Call it old fashioned, call it foolish, call it romantic, wherever your loyalty lies, football in Britain exerts a magical almost mythical hold on us. There are no words to describe it. That’s why I guess they call it the beautiful game?

Disclaimer

This video was made possible thanks to the kind support of Visit Britain but all the views, good and bad are entirely my own.

The year is 2012. June.

I had just quit my full time job to become a nomad.

I would have forgotten my nomad anniversary but the onset of the Euros have brought back a flood of memories. Then, the fixtures gods threw up Denmark Vs Germany.

Again. 

My thoughts turned towards that fateful summer.

I had got rid of all my earthly possessions and packed my life into a backpack to start my 2 month interrail trip across Europe. I remember checking into the Generator Copenhagen on a cloudy muggy day in June, looking out onto a sea of spires, that eclectic range of architecture and feeling a surge of excitement. I remember just going for an aimless wonder, catching sunset at Nyhavn, the harbour area before heading into town to watch the inaugural Euro 2012 game between Denmark and Germany with my friend Alex Berger.

My iPhone 4 photo of that sunset at Nyhavn, the 17th century waterfront of Copenhagen

Euro 2012 Fanzone park. Glorious scenes as Denmark win against Germany.

I can still remember it. The chaos and excitement after Denmark’s unexpected win over Germany. The countless beers that followed after. 4am. Sitting at the bus stop wasted with friends. I sometime wish I could bottle that excitement and anticipation. Looking back at the pictures of Copenhagen from that summer, I can still feel a bit of the old excitement  and energy coming back. Travel gives you that buzz, that glorious anticipation of the unknown, the luxury where pretty much anything could happen. There was a rough itinerary but no big plan, other than to visit a few hostels which would form the basis of my first ever book, The Luxury Hostels of Europe.

Travel is a wonderful drug, the best one. Even after all these years of travel, I love the act of travel. Packing the backpack. Checking in for the flight online or checking the train reservation, planning the trip to train station. Stocking up on travel snacks. Reading up a little about the place and making notes on my phone. With every beloved ritual, comes a set of rituals, each, cherished that all form to become one wonderful act of escape, of self care and love. 

I miss travelling that way. It might come as a surprise to you but I can’t remember the last time I had a proper holiday. Now, you might think, you are the guy who constantly travels the world for a living. True, but there is a difference between travelling for pleasure and travelling for work. I chose to make travel my lifestyle, my work so my confession might sound a bit rich to you. Don’t get me wrong. I wake up everyday, happy. Still, when you build your life , business around travel and have no home base and have to plan your movements 6/12 months in advance, you miss those moment of spontaneity, that thrill of the unknown. We try to build in some time for downtime but the last few years have been a bit of slog, working as much as we can to pay off all the debts, build up our bank balance after the barren years of the pandemic. Now, as the pandemic disappears in the rear view and we can again look forward to a life of rich possibilities, I am dreaming of escape. Of wondering aimlessly till sunset. Wasted at 4am in a new city with friends. Who can relate?

I also seem to have the inability to know how to switch off and relax. If I decide to take the day off. I’ll charge the kindle up to read a book while enjoying a coffee. I will probably have patience to read though a few pages before I either feel tired or I go back to the bad habit of just mindlessly browsing my social media feeds before I take the dreaded decision of checking my emails! What kind of an idiot does that on their ‘day off’? Maybe, it is a habit I have picked up from being self employed. I find long walks to be one thing I can do on my days off.

I do find that being with friends, gives me the permission to switch off. I lied a little earlier.  I actually did have somewhat of a holiday last year in Greece, when our good friend from Berlin, Pascal visited us when we were in Athens. As a first time visitor to the mainland, he was keen to hire a car and explore, so we suggested a roadtrip to the Peloponnese. 

It was a magical few days. The weather was perfect.  The landscape was rugged, wild and overgrown. There was a wonderful sense of isolation about all the places we visited.  I loved Napflio, the old Venetian outpost with its beautiful fortress sitting in the azure blue Argonic Gulf, its narrow cobblestone cafes with a magnificent backdrop of mountain scenery. When the daytrippers left town, I would wallow in the silence of centuries and just look in awe at the fortress, glowering in the dark. There’s this slight sense of decay in parts, which just makes Napflio even more haunting.

Later, we visited the stunning hilltop fortress of Larissa. It was close to sunset and the abandoned fortress, overgrown with wild flowers and weeds had this almost magical, ethereal glow. That broad expansive view of the surrounding towns and the Argolic plains will long remain in memory. We visited a few wineries and drank lots of good wine. The days were infinite, unplanned and had a sense of real adventure that sometimes I feel is missing in my work and travels. In keeping with the unplanned, offbeat theme of the trip, I lugged around with me an analogue Olympus OM 10 camera to document the trip. It had been probably 20 years since I touched an analogue camera. 

When the pictures came out, phew a lot of happy and old emotions came back. Here’s a selection…

I think, many of us are in this nostalgic frame of mind, often longing for a simpler way of life which involved less tech, less being ‘on’ and being in the moment. Or, maybe this is all just a way of us trying to reconnect with an older version of ourselves. 

Life comes full circle. Another summer. Denmark vs Germany. Denmark wins again? Another chance to rewrite the script. Another chance to write a new story. Create some good memories and pause, remember the older version of yourself. Nostalgic but happy, still optimistic and excited for what lies ahead.

PS: Checkout my earlier guide to Athens and also my guide to where to eat in Thessaloniki if you are planning a trip there soon.

1. Pandora

Lempesi 1, Athina 11742

Our tour starts at one of the oldest bakeries in Koukaki, Pandora which is tucked away on a side street near the Acropolis. Their main claim to fame are their heavenly pies which are an essential part of the Greek and Athenian diet and something that can be enjoyed at all times- breakfast, lunch or dinner. The pies here are made with homemade phyllo pastry and prepared on the premises daily. There is a range of pies to try with interesting filling from pumpkin to cheese and pasta.

During the tour we tried the two classic versions- spinach and cheese and chicken. Both were fantastic, the phyllo crumbly and delicious as well as the fillings. Perfect start.

2. Tavern Thomas

Dimitrakopoulou 18, Athina 11742

Our next stop is Tavern Thomas , a restaurant which is a modern take on the post-war tavern of Athens from the 1950s and beyond, aiming to revive the flavors that Athens had at the time. Dishes here range from homemade bread with olives to lamb with greens, mashed potatoes, greens, pies, Greek salad, braised meats and fish. 

Led by their passionate head chef Dimitris Panayiotou, we were treated to some olive oil tasting with their homebaked sourdough bread which was delicious. We then were served some typical mezes, which were fava bean puree and also zucchini balls. Both were fab,

We washed it all down with an excellent local white wine, Malagousia. All the items were from the nearby region of Peloponnese where the chef’s roots are. Overall, a very pleasant and nice experience.

3. Pantopolion

Dimitrakopoulou 34, Athina 11742

For our next stop, Theodore takes us to a popular local delicatessen with a twist : Pantopolion not only offers authentic Greek food specialities but serves visitors a wide variety of Greek beverages, from tsipouro, tsikoudia to wine accompanied by cold cuts of meat plus cheeses.

For our ‘third’ course of the tour, owners Giannis and Stavros served up a tasting platter of Graveira cheese from Crete , cold cuts of meats-pastrami and salami, olives accompanied by tsipouro and the famous Mastiha- a liquer made from the Mastiha resin of a tree which grows only on the island of Chios. Loved all the items, especially the salty mature Graveira cheese. 

4. Dyo Dekares Oka 

Anastasiou Zinni 29, Athina 117 41

Our last stop was a sit-down dinner of home-cooked Greek classics at one of the coziest tavernas in Athens. If you want to visit a typical Athenian tavern, this is the place, with guitars and snapshots of Greek music on the walls. Run by three brothers, the tavern feels more like a gathering of friends and family and you are being welcomed into their home. The brothers have kept alive their family recipes and culinary traditions so this as Athenian as it gets. We are treated to a delicious homemade moussaka, eggplant roasted in the oven with feta, marinated chickpeas and tzatziki.

We are full and bursting by the end so we were grateful for Theodore taking us on a walk through one of the most beautiful streets in Athens- Tsami Karatasou. You will find some of the finest example of neoclassical architecture on this street, wedged between the 70s apartment buildings and the odd few abandoned mansions with barred doors. 

‘If you want to see what Athens was like in the 50’s , this street is time-capsule of that time.’

Theodore remarks wistfully as we slowly wind our tour in front of the Acropolis. If you want to dig into Greek food culture, learn about the history of Athens and also listen to some nice personal anecdotes of what is life like as an Athenian, this tour is perfect and Theodore is great company.  My only minor quibble is that there was too much delicious food so my advice is to come hungry and skip lunch!

How to book this food tour

Athens Evening Food Tour of Koukaki lasts 3 hours ( 5.30-8.30pm ) and costs €79, booked directly via the Devour Food Tours website. 

Disclaimer- We were gifted this food tour by Devour Food Tours but the views expressed here are entirely my own. 

“Everything you look at can become a fairy tale and you can get a story from everything you touch.”

Hans Christian Andersen

Just 75 minutes from Copenhagen, Odense, the 3rd largest city of Denmark feels more relaxed, very idyllic with its narrow cobbled streets and half timbered houses. It sometimes feels straight from a fairytale of its favourite son, HC Anderson who lived in Odense till the age of 14. From his childhood home to the brand new HC Andersen Museum designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, Anderson’s legacy is evident, everywhere you walk in Odense. Every Odense guide online will rightly wax lyrically about Anderson but I want to focus on giving you an idea of the other side of Odense and paint the bigger picture. In this guide to the best things to do in Odense, I want to tell you about all the cool stuff that locals do, where they eat and also I’ll talk about a pretty unique festival. Wherever you look, there are cool stories, personalities waiting to be discovered in Odense. Here is my guide to thebest things to do in Odense- Let’s start with a visit to the beautiful harbour of Odense where a unique experience awaits you.

1.Take a swim in the Odense Harbour Bath

Address: Gamle Havnekaj 3, 5000 Odense C

It’s hard to miss Odense Havnebad (harbour bath) with its eye-catching physical presence, slap bang in the middle of Odense Harbour. Resembling a ship, complete with a deck and a red and white striped cabin, this free to use swimming facility is a must-visit spot for swimming enthusiasts. The baths are open all year round – making the three degree water temperatures in winter – no feat for the faint-hearted. In contrast, swimming in summer is a pleasant experience. Enjoy the sauna on the premises but remember to bring your own towel. Contrary to expectations, the pool water is chlorinated and not fed from the frigid Baltic Sea. In addition to swimming, a variety of activities are available in the area including basketball, football, volleyball, roller derby and parkour. 

The harbour bath is open during limited hours in the morning and afternoon. Please check the website here for the most uptodate opening hours and times to visit.

2. Checkout the magical Kramboden

Address: Nedergade 24, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Kramboden translates to ‘the old store’. Situated at 24 Nedergade, in Odense, this listed building from the sixteenth century used to be a merchant’s house and now serves the purpose of displaying antique and museum replica pieces of furniture along with a wide range of antique items, Danish household pieces for everyday use and lots more. Nooks and corners are crammed tight with treasures and the whole atmosphere is redolent with the charm of yesteryear.  Baskets, brooms, chunky spools of twine, paper ephemera from the past, metal watering cans, clay pots sitting cheek to jowl with Christmas decorations – there’s a lot to spark the interest of the observer.  

3. Coffee at Nelle’s Coffee and Wine

Address: Overgade 21b, 5000 Odense C

Nelle’s Coffee and Wine is located in the fringes of historic Overgade, quite close to the Hans Christian Anderson House. After a visit to the house and museum or if you are looking to start the day with good coffee, grab one of the tables on the outdoor terrace and watch the world go by. The cakes here are fantastic if you have a sweet tooth plus between 5 and 6pm, they offer half price wine. 

4. Checkout Odense Art scene

Odense’s art scene, for its modest size, packs a punch and you will discover a variety of art pieces- sculptures, statues to street art pieces spread across the city. The characters of HC Anderson’s fairytales come to life on the streets of Odense in the form of beautiful sculptures. The tourism board have produced an excellent map and a guided route to his sculptures – click here. Beyond that here are a few of my favourites 

Oceania, sculpture

Renowned national artist Svend Wiig Hansen is the creator of the bronze statue Oceania, which the locals either love or hate, and which captures the attention of every visitor to Odense. It’s hard to pinpoint whether the form of Oceania is more male or female and the fascination of the piece lies in its somewhat grotesque features. The swollen feet, the misshapen limbs, the exposed chest and the serene gaze looking skyward towards the City Hall – makes you stand and stare. The bronze goddess was a gift from Odense City Art Foundation and Asea Brown Boveri A/S in 1992 and since then has dominated the street art scene of the city. 

Hans Christian Andersen Mural

The brick building with the high gabled roof is home to the mural of Odense’s most beloved citizen – writer Hans Christian Anderson. No 26 Bangs Boder is coincidentally quite close to the Hans Christian Anderson museum. The black and white mural is the work of artist Don John, who grew up in Brylle on the outskirts of Odense. 

The twelve metre high image is painted in black and white. This makes the writer’s features stand out distinctively. The eyes stare dreamily into the distance, rendering the artist in a contemplative mood. 

Roa , Odense Harbour

The three sides of Odense’s grain silo situated in Odense Harbour are decorated with massive works of art – courtesy of the artist ROA whose works are to be found in many other cities. Often known for his large scale depiction of animals, the set of murals in Odense Harbour are no exception. Large fish, feathered birds with piercing eyes and sharp beaks hang upside down in suspended animation and are perhaps a nod 

5.  Try the local smoked cheese, “rygeost” at the local outdoor food market at Sortebrødre Torv

Rygeost is a original Danish cheese and has its origins on the island of Fyn, where Odense is located. Some even trace the history of making rygeost cheese back to the Vikings but more recently, the cheese was found on farms in Fyn from the nineteenth century. 

The cheese is not matured and has a soft texture without a crust. The unique smokey flavour is produced by infusion with the smoke of burning freshly harvested oat or wheat straw under the cake of cheese. Slightly sour and flavourful, Rygeost is best enjoyed thickly smeared on a dense piece of rye bread and perhaps flavoured with the sharp crunch of thinly sliced red radish. Mixed with sour cream and herbs, the smokey cheese gains a new lease of life. 

The best place to sample the cheese in Odense is the local farmers market at Sortebrødre Torv. The market runs every Wednesday and Saturday all year, from 8 am to 1 pm.

6. Have lunch at Cafe Fleuri

Address: Nørregade 28, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Find a beautiful slice of Paris in the heart of Odense at Cafe Fleuri. Located on the outer periphery of the old quarter , Cafe Fleuri is the ideal place to catch your breath between sightseeing and enjoy a plate of something delicious. Enjoy breakfast, a hearty brunch or light lunch with fresh organic fare, plates of open sandwiches, salads, cakes and pastries, hot and cold drinks. 

The interior of the cafe has glittering chandeliers, delicate Parisian decor, vintage inspired artwork and sparkling glassware. During fine weather, the outdoor courtyard with potted plants and shady parasols, is the place to be to enjoy an intimate drink with a friend. 

7. Take a boat tour with Odense Aarfart 

Address: Filosofgangen 30B, 5000 Odense C, Denmark

Follow the trajectory of the Odense River inland, and bask in the bounty of peaceful nature in the heart of Odense city, with a scenic river boat tour. The one hour long roundtrip with Odense Aarfart starts at Munke Mose and  includes stops at Odense Zoo with the journey moving on to Erik Bøghs Sti for the ongoing trip. A 15 minute walk takes the visitor to Funen Village from the Erik Bøghs Sti. The boats currently run on solar power making the boat trip noise-free and a serene experience. The boats are wheelchair accessible and the return trip can be used at any time during the day. A special boat trip with live music takes place on Saturdays during the summer. 

Round tickets cost 109 DKK and got be bought online here or from the Aafarten café and ticket office in the ‘Kunstbygningen’. The cruises start here.  The boat tours runs from 1st of April to the 30th of September, and in the autumn holidays. 

8. Visit Art Museum Brandts

Address: Amfipladsen 7, 5000 Odense C

The Art Museum Brandts in the heart of Odense, is the cultural centre of the city and the place to visit for discovering the old masters of Danish painting, along with contemporary artists. It’s easy to get lost for several hours amidst the five floors of Funen’s largest art repository. 250 years of Danish art history are crammed into various corners giving the visitor a comprehensive overview of the cultural scenery of the country. In addition there are several special annual art exhibitions to get stuck into. The museum has a special sensory art exhibition which might be of interest to both children and adults – certainly something to look out for. The festive family workshop guarantees a  learning experience for the whole family.

On Thursdays, museum visitors can enjoy extended hours, with the museum remaining open till 9 pm. Happy Hour is from 4-6pm at the museum cafe, with a brilliant deal of two-for-one drinks. Overlooking Amphi Square, the museum cafe is an inspired space, with several sculptures and a mural to capture the eye. Aside from drinks like the usual tea and coffee, wines and specialty beers are on offer, along with tasty seasonal cakes and pastries, wholesome salads and sandwiches. 

The museum shop is a nice place to pick up a souvenir of the visit – a postcard, lithograph, art book, poster or other designer item.

Tickets cost 130 DKK while students enjoy a reduced price of 75 DKK. Kids till the age of 17 go free.

9. Evening drinks at Anarkist Beer & Food Lab

Address: Albanigade 20, 5000 Odense C

The very large arched window framed by bricks and skirted by a row of neatly propped up bicycles at Anarkist Beer and Food Lab, is a portal into the world of all things beer and beer related in Odense. Housed in the 160 year old Albani Brewery, the premises include a microbrewery and cafe serving food that has a distinct local flavour. The microbrewery, the Theodor Schiøtz Brewing Company is named after the founder of Albani breweries. Discover more at the small exhibition set up in the cafe that celebrates the history of beer making at the site. The Anarkist’s Bottleshop provides visitors with the opportunity to take home a variety of local beers. 

10. Dinner at Storms Pakhus

Address: Lerchesgade 4, 5000 Odense, Denmark

Along the lines of Reffen in Copenhagen , this large industrial size warehouse at Odense Harbour has been converted into a space where foodies can mingle and enjoy the broad spectrum of Odense’s burgeoning gastronomic scene. The 3000 square metre space at Storms Pakhus is home to about 24 food stalls and six bars and remains open till late at night on Fridays and Saturdays. We tried a noodle soup and a Thai red curry and both dishes did not disappoint. We also loved the vibe here, lots of students and people of all ages. They have a busy calendar of events, from quiz nights and markets to DJ’s and much more. From 11-3pm, Monday to Friday many of the stalls will offer one of their main dishes at a discounted price of 55 DKK-the best value for money lunch deal in town.

When to visit Odense: Heartland Festival

One of the highlights of coming to Odense was of course visiting Heartland Festival on Midtfyn. Here were my highlights of Heartland

1. Great music

Last year, a dream came true and we got to hear Robbie Williams live for the 1st time. Cardigans had a brilliant set and also we managed to catch our favourite Danish band, Prisma.

This years lineup looks fantastic and includes

Anne Sanne Lis

Nile Rodgers & CHIC

Phoenix

Tom Odell

Tim Christensen

Tina Dickow

Blaue Blume

Blue Foundation

Selma Judith

Afenginn

Elias Rønnenfelt

Brennen Leigh

Dan Smalley

Zandy Holup

Plant based burgers from Landcafe

2. A sustainable festival

The festival has a big focus on sustainability and environmentally-friendly practices. The festival is big on recycling and is powered from renewable energy sources. The good rail connections made it also easy for people to come to the festival. Visitors can expect a range of talks focussed on sustainability-related topics and issues. There was a big focus on local food and drinks producers like local brewery Anarkist to fantastic cocktails from Gedulgt and local sparkling wine from Stokkebye. My favourite place to eat was Landcafe who offered organic and vegan plus plant based burgers. The food at the festival aims to be at least 80% plant-based and 20% animal-based. Wherever possible, the festival purchases locally from the island of Funen and within Denmark. They even had a special lounge where visitors can learn more about making sustainable investments or for their own business. 

3. Great vibe

The festival setting on the grounds of Egeskov Castle , lends a fairytale vibe to the festival- the entire castle park feels like a huge open-air gallery with a variety of art and design objects, video and light installations . There is a lot of space to relax , plenty of toilets and water stations for visitors.

There’s lots of fun stuff- games area & the Casa Bacardi dance stage where you can learn salsa- fab.

Also , this is a family friendly festival with a separate play area ( make up station/ costumes / bouncy castle with foam ) special food options for kids. Overall, festival caters to a wide, grown up audience- we felt at home here. Another big plus is the 4000 volunteers from the local community who make the festival possible.

What could be better

This is a festival for Danes. Majority of the talks were Danish which was a shame. Hope in the future, they broaden out more and make it more accessible.

Where to stay in Odense

This small but well located private apartment, Hus-lejlighed i ejendommens Baghus, is about 1.5 km away from some of Odense’s major attractions, like Odense City Hall, Funen Art Gallery and the Concert Hall. Hans Christian Anderson House and St Knud’s Cathedral are also relatively nearby.

This one bedroom apartment with terrace, features a private entrance and in addition to the bedroom has a living room with flat screen TV. The kitchen is fully equipped with dishwasher, tumble dryer, stove top and refrigerator, among other things. 

Enjoy free Wi-Fi, available throughout the property. Prices to stay per night come in at around 100 euros a night. 

Disclaimer

Our trip to Odense was made possible with the kind support of Destination Fyn and Heartland Festival. However all views, good or bad, expressed here, are entitely my own. Thanks for reading and your continued support to the blog.

Image by Valter Cirillo from Pixabay

1. Orvieto

If you are interested in visiting an ancient Italian city preserved from Etruscan times (an era that ended around 200 BC), with beautiful views of the surrounding countryside, then a day trip to Orvieto would not be amiss. Situated on a wide, flat butte of volcanic rock, the walled city has an elaborate network of underground caves and tunnels used from Etruscan times, well into the medieval era. Spend a leisurely day walking around this highly walkable city taking in the beautiful architecture, beautiful ceramic pottery showcased in pretty shops and the serene, sprawling views of the Umbrian countryside. The Orvieto Duomo with its stunning facade of gold and jewel toned mosaic, along with relief work on the exterior depicting scenes from the Old Testament is certainly one of Italy’s most beautiful cathedrals. Don’t miss Scalza’s Pieta, a sculpture that is both imposing and emotive. The Well of St Patrick, the Orvieto Underground and the Etruscan Museum are some other places to happily spend the day. 

Where to eat in Orvieto

Using seasonal ingredients, Trattoria del Moro Aronne serves up a great selection of pasta dishes in a warm atmosphere. Nidi di Rondine is highly recommended. Febo , a modern restaurant and brewpub located in the city center of Orvieto also comes highly recommended.

How to Get There By Train

Trenitalia charters trains from Rome Termini to Orvieto every 4 hours. The run time is 1 hour 16 minutes. The tickets cost from €8-€16.

2. Naples

The regional capital of Campanula, a city known famously for the lipsmacking Neapolitan pizza, Naples, has the advantage of only being 1 hour 15 minutes away from Rome on a high speed train. Naples has plenty to offer, from a beautiful crescent shaped coastline, stunning deep blue sea views, historic castles, delicious world famous pizza and pastries, all within the backdrop of the formidable Mount Vesuvius. During your day long exploration don’t miss the opportunity to sit down at cafe in a piazza, order and enjoy a foamy cappuccino with a Sfogliatella – a conch shell shaped flaky pastry with a decadent ricotta centre. The interior of  Naples Cathedral has the most beautiful fresco domes in the Royal Chapel. Shades of blue, white, gold and soft muted shades of many colours lend life to scenes from the scriptures. For the best view in town take the escalators to the top of Vomero Hill to gaze from the Castel Sant’Elmo onto the faraway rooftops of the city. For more city sights, visit the Piazza del Plebescito where you will find among other things, San Francesco di Paola Basilica – resembling Rome’s Pantheon, and the Royal Palace of Naples, which is now a museum. Nearby, the Galleria Umberto I shopping arcade will mesmerise you, lifting your eyes to the tall, majestic heights of the steel and glass domed ceiling. Make sure to use the very efficient metro to get around town. 

Where to eat in Naples

Visit Gran Caffe Gambrinus for coffee and dessert. For pizza, L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele is a must. Pizza Napoletana at Gino e Toto Sorbillo is also fab.

How to Get There By Train

There are high speed trains connecting Rome to Naples. The 140 mile trip can be run in 1hour 10 minutes and tickets start from just €15.

3. Florence

Florence can be best seen on foot and if contemplating a walking tour of the city consider starting a tour at the Piazza del Duomo with admiring the pretty pink and green façade of the Duomo with the spectacular dome, designed by Brunelleschi. Giotto’s Campanile- a free-standing bell tower in the typical Florentine, gothic architectural style in next door along with the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo – displaying many artworks from the Cathedral of Florence. A cumulative ticket for entry into this UNESCO Heritage complex (The Duomo, Campanile and Musee dell’Opera del Duomo comes to 15 euros). The house-museum of Dante Alighieri, author of the Divine Comedy, (considered to be the greatest work composed in the Italian language) is another place to visit. the next stop on the walking tour. The house was built in the twentieth century on the site of the Alighieri family’s property and the museum is spread out on three floors, each floor representing different phases in the writer’s life. Other places to consider visiting are the Bargello – a sculpture museum and the Uffizi in the Piazza Signora, adjacent to the Town Hall – the Palazzo Vecchio.

Where to eat in Florence

Florence has a vibrant street food scene where you can find delicious snacks at reasonable prices. Take advantage of Florence’s brilliant aperitivo scene, where local bars offer complimentary snacks or a buffet of appetizer if you buy a drink.  Checkout my cheap eats guide to Florence for in-depth tips.

How to Get There By Train

The fast Italo train from Rome to Florence takes only 1 hour 36 minutes and can costs €13.90 booked in advance via Omio , going upto €75 on the day, or choose the slower local trains which can take 3 hours and are far more affordable on the day.

4. Pisa

If you head north to the Italian province of Tuscany you will pass through the fertile valley of the Tiber to reach the historical city of Pisa, situated just six miles away from the Ligurian Sea. Actually, Pisa lies on the alluvial plain of the River Arno and was once a prosperous port city. This prosperity is evident in the glory of the architecture in its cathedral complex in the Square of Miracles – or Piazza dei Miracoli. The religious monuments consist of the Cathedral, the baptistery, the campanile or the world famous Leaning Tower of Pisa and the cemetery.

The façade of the grey and white marbled exterior of the buildings against the verdant green manicured lawns in the Piazza, create an unforgettable vision of architectural artistry at its very finest. 

Where to eat in Pisa

Located close to the tower, you have to go to L’Ostellino, a hole in the wall bar that serves some of the best panini’s in Italy. Phenomenal place.

How to Get There By Train

The fastest trains from Rome to Pisa take 2 hours 17 minutes and can cost upward of €10.

Image by Simona from Pixabay

5. Ostia

The seaside summer holiday spot of the Romans, just a stone’s throw away from Rome, basking on the Ligurian Sea is the ancient port of Ostia. 

Situated just 30 kilometres west of Rome, Ostia is devoid of tourists and Rome’s best kept secret. It contains a superb example of well preserved Roman ruins outside of Pompeii. Ostia came into existence around 620 BC and its proximity to vast salt flats meant that it was an important supplier of salt to the Roman Republic. Salt was highly valued for its role in meat preservation. The archaeological site is spread over 10000 acres and contains lots of details of the reality of Roman life, so many years ago. The Necropolis, Baths of Neptune, the Grand Theatre, Plaza of the Guilds, The Grand Horrea, the Capitolium, Forum and so much more, make visiting Ostia so very worthwhile. 

Where to eat in Ostia

Paninoteca Al Diciassette is a must for their sandwiches and also Pane E Vino Trattoria Romana for their excellent value buffet and fresh fish.

How to Get There By Train

The commuter train from Rome takes approximately 45 minutes and costs only €1.50.

6. Santa Marinella 

Another perfect beach day trip is a visit to Santa Marinella, only a 30 minute train ride from Rome Trastevere. The benefits of visiting Santa Marinella, apart from the ease of reaching the beach destination, is the proximity of the beach from the main train station. Walk towards the crescent shaped bay with sparkling clear water and perhaps rent an umbrella and a sun bed for a lazy afternoon soaking up the sun. There’s a second beach just a short distance away if the first beach is crowded. There are lots of seafood restaurants and places to eat antipasti plates on offer. Santa Marinella is known as ‘the pearl of the Tyrrhenian Sea’ and exudes a vintage charm and beauty that echoes its past popularity with the Italian stars of yore. Ingrid Bergman and Roberto Rossellini owned a summer place here that  still exists. 

Where to eat in Santa Marinella

Pizzas are decent at Pizzeria Tavola Calda La Stella and visit Al Porticciolo if you a seafood lover.

How to Get There By Train

Multiple trains run from Rome to Santa Marinella, which will get you there in less than an hour, costing as little as €5.

Civitavecchia. Image by celina schou from Pixabay

7. Civitavecchia

The ancient cruise port terminal of Civitavecchia is only 61 km away from Rome and is known for its harbour, built by Roman Emperor Trajan, since the 2nd century BC. The best way to discover the joys of Civitavecchia is on foot. Rambling through the city’s twisting lanes and streets, being surprised by the quiet beauty of old churches in ancient piazzas, is a pleasurable experience after the hustle and bustle of Rome. Visit Civitavecchia’s impenetrable Roman fortress, Fort Michelangelo, in existence since the 16th century, with walls 6 metres wide. Spend some time admiring the magnificent structure and the central tower built by Michelangelo himself. If time allows, consider visiting the Taurine Baths, with their elaborate changing rooms, bath houses and bedrooms. End the day with a stroll across the waterfront and promenade. For a spot of shopping, head to the main thoroughfare, the Corso Centocelle, with many shops and opportunities for al fresco dining. Try to notice the Etruscan ruins that were found beneath street level and which are showcased by glass fronts that can be walked over. Fresh fruit and vegetable markets, churches and street entertainers make visiting Civitavecchia a memorable day trip. 

Where to eat in Civitavecchia

For great local seafood Il sugherino is a must, Cruise Cafe for comfort food and Ostaria La Babbiona for homemade Italian food at a good price.

How to Get There By Train

It takes approximately an hour to get here from Rome by train with an average ticket cost of €5.

‘Below the Mexican border the water changes colour; it takes on a deep, ultramarine blue—a washtub bluing blue, intense and seeming to penetrate deep into the water; the fishermen call it ‘tuna water.’

Steinbeck. The Log from the Sea of Cortez

In the beginning

Raw.

Remote.

Pristine.

A different planet.

There’s an unworldly feeling about Baja California Sur from the moment you first set foot on this lunar landscape. 

Overrun with cactus and barring a few sleepy towns, the tide of life here is gratifyingly, mind numbingly slow. Once you come here, the vast emptiness of the dusty landscape makes you feel insignificant. You feel very much alone with the elements here. There are no hip hotels, fast food chains or throngs of beachgoers. You come here for the very fact that they haven’t arrived yet. 

It is late November, very much off season in these parts. Yet, temperatures are in the mid 20’s, perfect late Spring weather for us in Europe. Barring a few snowbirds, odd dozen RV campers, we have the pristine Bahia Concepcion coastline to ourselves. With a bunch of incredible beaches to choose from, on the northern side of Mulegé, we plump for El Burro, one of the most unspoilt beaches in the region. Framed by a crescent shaped golden beach, the waters here are crystal clear with a gradient blue shimmer. The water is surprisingly warm and the bay is calm with no current, perfect for novice kayakers.

After a refreshing dip, we discover, right on the beach, a wonderful cafe called Nomadico. Serving handcrafted coffee, using beans from their roastery in Cholula Puebla in mainland Mexico, this cafe feels like you could be in Brooklyn or Berlin. We later dig into a local lunch of ceviche and seafood tacos, prepared on the beach by a team of local fisherman. Some days in your life feel surreal, a special gift from the heavens above but then again, we were in some kind of indefinable dreamscape that is Baja California Sur. 

Before sunrise

The cobalt blue waves crash slowly against the boulder lined strip they call the malecón. 

From the malecón, you can see all forms of life. In the distance there is a lone fisherman in his boat. The sea is calm, flat like a pristine slab of blue marble. Superimposed against the breathtaking backdrop of the mountainous craggy Isla Carmen, the boat looks unreal. Like the perfect oil painting you never thought could exist in real life. Further up the malecón is a small harbour with an impressive whitewashed lighthouse. Usually the marina is heaving with fishing and tour boats heading out to sea but it was quiet.

I am in the sleepy Pueblo Mágico town of Loreto. Loreto marks the northern border of Baja California Sur and it feels like a town lost in time. While enjoying my wonderful buffet breakfast at the Hotel Oasis, my eyes wander the horizon, following the solitary beach doggo as he roams the vast stretch of black sand beach that cradles the Sea of Cortez. On the flip side of the town, while walking the streets, you feel the watchful gaze of the impressive Sierra de la Giganta looming in the distance. 

One of my main reasons for coming to Loreto was to explore the dazzling Loreto Bay National Marine Park, often referred to as the Galápagos of Mexico thanks to the 800-plus aquatic species that call the waters home, from blue whales and Humboldt squid to sea lions. It is November and still too early in the season for whale watching so instead, I drop by the small fishing community of San Bruno. Our destination – the Playa Los Arquitos, located on the desolate island of San Marcos, which is famous for being home to the second biggest gypsum mine in the world.

Out to sea

It was hard to tell the difference between the sky and the sea that morning. They had both been painted that majestic tuna blue that Steinbeck had referred to. The sun was a big yellow ball of hazy happiness, burning slowly through the tuna blue. I had reservations about jumping on a boat that morning but it was such a beautiful morning and there was that inner voice, urging me to defy my fears, strap on the life jacket and hop on the boat. I had expected a bigger boat but when we arrived at the harbour, this wee fisherman’s boat with a 50 hp engine, greeted me. I was nervous but the sea of Cortez looked deceptively calm from land. It was only when we broke away from the harbour, out of earshot of the deafening chorus of pelicans seagulls and albatrosses, the boat thudding fiercely against the bigger waves that I felt my stomach turn. As someone who cannot swim, you can imagine the mortal fear that grips you when you are surrounding by the vast infinite blue of the sea and a boat defying gravity. I I think I had turned tuna blue myself and everyone could see the fear in my eyes. Rafa, our driver who was in front of me, then calmly resting his hand on my shoulder advises me to change position and face the horizon, side on. I felt a little better and focused my eye on the big ocean of blue. We were alone, a blip in this big beautiful ocean and then I saw the unusual undulating peaks of island san Marcos unfurling in the distance. 

We spend the morning relaxing, swimming in the sheltered bay of Playa Los Arquitos exploring its unusual rock formations and caves, a legacy of Baja’s volcanic origins. Some of the group go fishing with the owner of the boat, Daniel. Having worked 30 years on the mines on the island, Daniel retired 5 years ago and besides running fishing expeditions to the island, also runs a very popular Palapa la Abuela restaurant. They bring back a bountiful catch of several fish that include Barracuda, yellowfin tuna and marlin. Daniel makes a tuna ceviche tostada for starters. I think I might have had ceviche almost everyday of our trip in Baja California Sur. For mains , we had grilled marlin with rice and salad. So fresh, tasty with extra slices of avocado, lime wedges and coriander for garnish along with 3-4 varieties of hot sauces for extra heat. That lime, avocado, chilli and spicy sauce combo has to be one of life’s great pleasures. 

Inception

‘We don’t have the attractions of a big city. We live in small towns., rancheros. All we just have is this pristine rustic beauty. You can see the thermal geysers. You can see the cave paintings and see fossils. It’s very quiet here. We built these cabanas here for tourists and locals to enjoy the volcanic landscape. Go for a hike. Plus, you come here for the people. There’s a warmth here, a natural flair for welcoming people for centuries in Baja California Sur.’

Oscar Castañeda, Eco Tour Las Tres Virgenes

We sat in perfect silence waiting for sunrise over the volcano. We had arrived late at night under the clearest night sky full of millions of stars. Before calling it a night in our humble cabanas of our eco lodge, we gather around a roaring fire and gaze in awe at the sky. Unfortunately being a full moon night, it wasn’t the perfect night for star gazing. But the moon did illuminate the night sky like a billion watt bulb. Hidden behind a plume of white clouds, we could barely make out the mighty silhouette of the 3 volcanoes, the Las Tres Virgenes as they are called. We would have to wait till sunrise before a better look. We file into our rustic and creaky cabins. It is simple but cosy. Oscar turns on the hot water (solar-powered) before bed so we have a quick shower before crawling under the covers. All for just $400 MX (€20). 

Sunrise. From the viewing tower we have a perfect 360 degree view of the landscape with not a soul in sight. The vegetation is sparse here with the main landscape dotted with multiple cacti of varying heights. Our guide and host, Oscar reminded us that the cactus sometimes grow only a few milliliters and that many of the cacti in front of us were 500 years old. 

As the sun rises, a beautiful kaleidoscope of colours emerge to the eye, from red rouge, to beige and green, that give the landscape an even more beautiful surreal look. The only real sign of life is a plume of smoke in the distance where a geothermal electric plant is located. Other than that, nothing much exists here.

As the sun burns through the clouds, the mighty Las Tres Virgenes emerges in full view, rising steeply and majestically from the desert floor. You can still see the lava tracks from previous eruptions. It is a 5 mile loop from the lodge but time is short so the next best thing was to see the hot springs ride in the nearby  El Azufre Canyon. We hop back on the car and after a short 15 minute hike from the main road, we find the viewing point, the smell of sulphuric gases reminding us that we are still within the vicinity of an active volcano. Mexico has more than 2,000 volcanoes, however only 40 are active. The Las Tres Virgenes volcano last erupted in 2001 and is still monitored. 

The end is just the beginning

It has been a few weeks since we left Baja California Sur and I still sometimes find myself lost for words when I think of this place.  The surreal landscapes and fragile environment really push the boundaries of your mind. Everything you know and recognise as familiar, cannot be found here and realise just how small and insignificant we all are in the grand scheme of things. 

I will let Steinbeck say a few words.

Trying to remember the Gulf is like trying to re-create a dream…There is always in the back of our minds the positive drive to go back again. If it were lush and rich, one could understand the pull, but it is fierce and hostile and sullen. The stone mountains pile up to the sky and there is little fresh water. But we must go back if we live, and we don’t know why.”

Steinbeck

Steinbeck who died in 1968, never made it back to Baja. Maybe, he did not need to return. Baja is that kind of place. A fantasy. A dream, that lives on within you, long long after you have said goodbye. 

Disclaimer: This once in a lifetime adventure was made possible thanks to the trip planning platform, HipTraveler and the Baja California Sur Tourism board.

For the full itinerary of our Baja California Sur trip , please checkout the HipTraveler website.

Eternal gratitude to John, Swati and Luis for bringing us to Baja California and also love to the dream content team- Melvin, Nina, Garrett and last but not least, Sabrina.

While some prefer the road less travelled, I tend to find that with age, I return to the roads well travelled. Every time I go back to a place filled with good memories, even though the places may have stayed the same, I find that I have changed, so the memory is always renewed and refreshed. I am always discovering something new. The best places exist in many layers like an unfurling onion that has a habit of slowly unravelling, revealing it’s various layers over time. Leipzig is one of those cities which keeps on peeling back its layers of history, revealing stories at every twist and turn. Like an invisible vortex, it keeps pulling me back for more. It wasn’t love at first sight. I first came in 2013 and hated it. I didn’t warm to the dreary soviet style architecture and plattenbau, prefab concrete buildings, a hangover from the GDR era. However, on a subsequent visit, many years later, I found myself in the more grungier and alternative district of Plagwitz and just fell in love with the area, the vibe and found the keys to the city.  I’ve also grown rather fond of the grim soviet style architecture in a weird, nostalgic kind of way. 

The street that I keep coming back to and falling in love with, every time is Karl Heine Strasse or KHS as locals call it. If I could afford it, I would live there in a heartbeat. It has become less gritty but there is that whiff of decadence, an edge and enough imperfections that still makes my pulse race. It does remind me of the reason I fell in love with Berlin all those years ago. However, lets be clear, Leipzig is not the new Berlin and is just Leipzig. No hype or more famous doppelgängers required. 

To give some context, Karl Heine is located in the former industrial neighbourhood of Plagwitz, in the city’s west. Originally a small village, which was heavily industrialized in the mid-1850s by the solicitor Karl Heine, post reunification, Plagwitz became the bohemian district of the city and home to lots of artists. It used to be a pretty run down area with lots of semi-derelict buildings with artists squatting in them and a handful of cafes but now the street has cleaned up nicely.

I always base myself around the corner of Karl Heine Strasse in a hostel called Multitude. Technically located in the equally hip neighbouring district of Lindenau but just a 10 minute walk from the beginning of Karl Heine, this is a really homely hostel with lots of light, beds with the perfect mattress for a great night’s sleep, a very spacious self catering kitchen, a good outdoor terrace for relaxing and a great onsite bar with fireplace, which attracts a nice mix of locals. It is one of those hostel that feels instantly like home which is the same way I feel about the city. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A post shared by Kash Bhattacharya (@budgettraveller)

So. Let me rewind to the most recent trip, just a few weeks back. After a quick shop for groceries at the Rewe supermarket next door to the hostel, we dust off the cameras and head off for THE walk. The weather had turned colder that day but after a few days of constant drizzle, the skies were baby blue and the pale sunlight was filtering through the rust rouge leaves, giving off an ethereal glow. The large willow trees arched over our heads in perfect symmetry as we entered Karl Heine, just like the opening pages of a fairytale. It was just pass noon and already a throng of locals were huddled around the tables of some of the cafes.

There is an enormous choice of places to eat in Karl Heine Strasse, so if you are a foodie, this is the street to visit.

It is the perfect day for a hearty bowl of soup and I know just the place – a Moroccan eatery called Salon Casablanca. Lovely well-priced food, lots of vegetarian options, good portion sizes and refreshing mint tea, I love coming here to try their tagines and soups. 

Next stop is Beard Brothers and Sisters, a vintage hole in the wall bar that serves the most scrumptious hot dogs and drinks. I have always wanted to come here in the past based on positive reviews from friends and happily they did not disappoint. Great dog, perfect bun, good range of toppings and sauces, plus if you come in the evening, they have local musicians performing in a small balcony above the bar. The food and the fun does not stop there.

We next visit  Westwerk, a former factory complex that has become the heart of the local creative scene with ateliers for artists, musicians and also home to a wide variety of affordable places to eat

I try Georgian food for the first time at Kleiner Kaukasus and it was so good. Owner Malkhazi prepares the Khachapuri in front of us – warm, soft flatbreads stuffed with molten cheese with a delicious topping of beetroot and cream.This was heavenly, melt in your mouth kind of food. Later in the trip we also popped into the next door Vietnamese diner, Bamboo’s Streetfood where on plastic tools you can sup on a bowl of Pho besides other specialities. Not the best pho but still, a very solid 8 out of 10 option if you are craving Asian flavours. I also have to mention Naumann’s Gaststube. Part of the Felsenkeller, a former ballroom turned live music and arts venue, it is worth visiting just to enjoy the grand interiors of this former neo-baroque building that dates back to 1890. Naumann’s Gaststube serves honest, working class people’s grub and I would highly recommend their schnitzel.

Westwerk is no longer a secret but still retains its creative, hippy vibe with a diverse mix of second-hand shops, artists‘ studios, yoga and tattoo studios, culinary venues such as Kleiner Kaukasus but also large billiard halls like the uber cool Mensa on the top floor. My favourite shop in the complex is Westfach where you find all kinds of beautiful things, from postcards and prints, ceramics, jewellery from local artists plus a great selection of vinyl and vintage items.

Opposite Westwerk, another local landmark I like to checkout for drinks, food and entertainment is the Schaubuhne Lindelfels. Housed in a magnificent Art Nouveau villa straight out of Paris, this functions as a bar by night, (order the house Gin and Tonic) cinema but also acts as a theatre and festival venue. On one of the nights, we were privileged to catch one of the acts at the annual Leipziger Jazz Festival. Sitting there in this 140 year old ballroom really is a magical experience. 

No trip to Karl Heine is complete without a traditional visit to one of the classic Photoautomats. The booth is one of the craziest I’ve ever seen, plastered with stickers, posters and graffiti. The photos are never great here but it is an experience sitting in that booth, a time travel machine of some sort and a connection to previous, younger naive versions of myself.

There are a few great bars on the street to checkout but if you visit just one bar, go to Noch Besser Leben, which means something like ‘Even better Living’. Such a great name for a pub and a sentiment to represent. It’s a favourite for local artists, musicians and students, actually anyone. It has that laidback rough around the edges charm, but is pretty friendly and a great place to meet locals.

At the end of Karl Heine Strasse there is a turning onto the Karl Heine canal path. Stretching for 3.3 kilometres, this is a beautiful walk, anytime of the year. In Autumn, it is especially magical with all the colours and the reflections in the water. Lined with historic villas to modern industrial lofts, the canal is also a great timeline of the city, another form of time travel where you walk from the past, straight into the future.

There are no doubt plenty more memorable places to visit in Leipzig and I’m sure with years to come, I’ll find something new and magical about Karl Heine Strasse. While we travel the four corners to see the world, in some people, places and streets we see the world and that is the magic of Leipzig and KHS for me. 

Disclaimer: My trip to Leipzig was made possible thanks to the kind support of Leipzig Tourismus but all the opinions, good and bad, are entirely mine. Thanks for reading and your continued support.

1. Bunna Cafe, Gozo

Address: 38A Triq ir-Repubblika, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

Restaurateur Philip Spiteri’s go to place for coffee, Bunna Cafe is one of Malta’s best cafes. The coffee is wonderful as well as their food. What elevates this cafe to something special are the two ladies who run- they make a point to welcome everyone as if they were welcoming you to their home. Great hospitality, yummy sandwiches, croissants and toasts.

2. Gleneagles Bar, Gozo

Address: 10, Triq Il-Vittorja Gozo GSM 2400, Malta

Run by brothers Tony and Sammy for 5 decades, Gleneagles Bar is a Gozitan Institution . Like all great bars, it is a meeting point for locals, a hideout,  a real piece of local history.  The brothers are full of stories and you feel a real connection to the island’s history when you visit this pub. Plus, the broad sweeping view of Mgarr harbour from the balcony of the bar is amazing – you can spend hours watching people come and go. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A post shared by Kash Bhattacharya (@budgettraveller)

Amazing fresh salads at Mojos is one of many delicious items on the menu

3. Mojo’s

Address: Triq Fortunato Mizzi, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

Probably the best lunch spot in Gozo, Mojo’s has a fabulous menu serving fresh fruit juices, epic salads, their Gozitan burger is the stuff of legends as are their sweet chill cheddar fries. Claire, the owner is a legend too and had so many nice tips to share of her island.

Everything on the menu at Ta’ Philip is great but I loved the octopus

4. Ta’ Philip

Address: Triq Sant’ Antnin Ghajnsielem, Mġarr, Malta

Run by the affable and talented restuarnteur, Philip Spiteri, Ta Philip is the place to go to in Gozo where you can enjoy traditional Gozitan dishes slow cooked in a wood burning oven. Great selection of wines too.

5. Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s

Address: Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road,, Xewkija XWK 9014, Malta

A great place for a nice coffee or a glass of wine, ( they have an incredible wine cellar ) Vini e Capricci in Xewkija is another high quality but value for money place to eat in Gozo. On the lunch menu they have fire grilled panini starting at just €9.50 plus delicious soups and salads. ( wild fennel salad is amazing ) Signature dishes include the Risotto al Guanciale ( €10.75) and Rabbit Ravioli ( €14.75)

Delicious ftira at Ta’ Saminu Bakery

6. Ta’ Saminu Bakery

Address: Triq Tal-Ħamrija, Xewkija, Malta

A family-run bakery that goes back generations, Ta’ Saminu Bakery is one of the last few traditional bakeries on the island. They specialise in Gozitan style ftira, qassatat with unique fillings, biscuits and local breads which are prepared in their wood burning oven. There is always queue of locals snaking out of the bakery, always a reassuring sign.

7. Sphinx Pastizzeria

Various outlets in Gozo and Malta

If you ask any Maltese local about their favourite local dish, it is likely they will mention Pastizzi ( sounds like past-it-si) to you. 

You walk in any direction in Gozo or Malta and you will bump into a Pastizzeria. 

The classic pastizzi is in two forms, with ricotta cheese and my favourite, mashed peas.

Chef, Stephen La Rosa’s go to place is Sphinx Pastizzeria and their pastizzi is fantastic. Beyond the classics they have some adventurous flavours including their brand new truffle pastizzi.

Sabrina trying the delicious ravioli at Cafe Jubilee, Gozo

8. Café Jubilee

Address: Pjazza l-Indipendenza, Ir-Rabat Għawdex, Malta

I finish with one of my favourite places to eat in Gozo, Café Jubilee which became an instant hit with locals in Victoria since its opening in 1998 and following its success, a restaurant in Valletta followed two years later.

For a mere €2.50 you can get one of their excellent cheese and tomato toasted sandwiches.Their signature Nanna’s Ravioli dish is just €10.95 and they are generous with their portions.

The rest of their extensive menu also ranges between these prices, which makes it a perfect place to get bang for your buck. And it’s open from 8 am till about midnight so you really don’t have any excuse not to go.

The bonus? This dimly lit cosy café is full of quirky décor (think tables and chair glued to the ceiling) which makes it perfect for a romantic meal with loved ones or friends.

Further reading

Discovering Malta with locals, no smartphone or guidebook required

Cheap eats guide to Malta

Things to do in Malta and Gozo

Disclaimer: The trip to Malta and Gozo was possible thanks to the kind support of Visit Malta and partners. However, all the opinions expressed here, good and bad are entirely my own.

We stumble down the sulphur-yellow dirt track, no sign of Claire’s secret beach. In the past 15 minutes we have been honoured with just the odd lonesome goat for company and the swallows, dancing above our heads. I take a slurp of my water. It is past midday but already the April sun feels strong on our skin. We reach a dead end. Force of nature implores me to look at my phone for answers. According to Google Maps, the track or beach does not exist. We are in no-mans lands. I look up again, into the distance, my eyes swimming in the most perfect shade of deep blue Mediterranean Sea. Sabrina reminds me that Claire, our new Gozitan acquaintance had mentioned a turn off to the right. We retrace our steps up the dusty yellow track.

Foraging for wild fennel in Gozo

I notice the clumps of wild feral fennel casually growing amidst the poppy flowers. We find our turn off, an overgrown path covered with a thicket of wildflowers of all the colours of the rainbow. I pause to take photos of them so that someone can identify them to me later. Besides the happy dance of swallows there is also the sweet meditative hum of bees, frolicking in the meadow of wildflowers. I close my eyes. Sometimes, travel presents you with these moments of almost near perfection.I soon hear a wild yelp of happiness from Sabrina. I open my eyes and see she has ventured forth, via a craggy slope through the impenetrable haze of wildflowers.

Path to the secret beach

She has found the path to the mythical secret beach. It has the perfect view of the dreamy turquoise blue waters of Comino in the distance. We must have sat there in perfect silence for almost half an hour before a couple came. There was a look of surprise and then a big smile. 

‘So you know about this beach too.’

We nodded our heads reassuringly and raised our hands, half apologetically to reassure them…the secret stays with us. We retrace our steps up the track. The goat had disappeared. When we reach the top of the track and look down again, there was no visible landmark in the horizon of our secret beach, just the swallows dancing in the sky.

Locals sharing their tips for Malta in our scrapbook

Maybe there are no secrets in travel anymore.

It was better before. We had to use our imagination and not rely on Instagram to visualise a place. Maybe its an old age thing, but there is this horrible tendency of people in my age group to romanticise the past. Travelling was more fun, authentic. There were less crowds in the most popular travel hotspots. You didn’t need to get up at 5 am to see the Trevi fountain. You could fly Ryanair around Europe for as little as €2 return. Plus, there was no hassle with carrying liquids or restrictions of carry-on luggage. Hostels were super cheap. I remember travelling with my trusted Lonely Planet guidebook and the 3 hostels listed seemed to have room for everyone.

Then came the age of the internet. Social media. Suddenly, there was a huge amount of information at the tips of our hands. We were in theory, better equipped to travel more and better. The opening hours of restaurants could be found without the need of a phone call. We could find the list of the ten best things to do in Berlin in a flash thanks to the boom in blogs. There was no need to pop into the tourist information office or speak to travel advisors anymore. No need for human interaction. Everything you needed to know about a city or place was one Google search away. Now we have AI tools to help plan our travel itineraries. Nothing is left to chance. We have our bottomless bucket list of places to see before we die. Instagram over nourishes our desire and dream to travel. With so many places to see and so little time, travel becomes another task, another list of things to finish. We arrive home, miserable and unfulfilled. 

Meeting the friendly locals of Mgarr

‘If I was to tell a tourist what to do in Gozo, I would tell them to go swimming on one of our amazing beaches where locals spend lot of time in spring and summer. I would tell them to do a cooking class. Immerse yourself in the everyday life of the island. Go to any cafe or bar.’

Claire, Mojo.

I am back in Malta after almost 8 years. I remember looking at the old photos and feel like it was a different era and a different me. One of the highlights of my trip was visiting the small, traditional fishing village of Marsaxlokk in the south eastern corner of Malta. I remember on a sleepy late September afternoon having the whole waterfront to myself, a bottle of the local Cisk lager in hand. I also remember wandering the narrow streets of the Mdina, the silent city, timeless and this feeling of almost walking back in time. 10 years later and I am excited to be back in Malta but a little nervous. It is like when you reconnect with old friends and wonder, will it be as nice as before?

The popularity of the island in the years past has soared thanks to the popularity of shows like Game of Thrones. We revisit Mdina and it seems a lot less silent. The crowds have multiplied. Luckily, I had been warned by some locals to avoid Mdina and visit the neighbouring village of Rabat. Rabat feels as timeless and enchanting as Mdina but when we visited, there was hardly any crowds to be seen, just the odd local. We were grateful to Mark from the Kings Crown pub for the tip.

Confession time. It was not entirely by chance we met Mark. Philip told us about Stephen. Stephen spoke of Mark. We met Philip thanks to a card game we invented. Let me explain.

For this trip to Malta we had decided to do something different. Instead of planning the trip to death via researching endless blog posts, Pinterest boards and Instagram galleries, chewing through a guidebook, we decided to have a different kind of trip. The whole trip would be a game of chance, constructed with the help of speaking to random locals. No guidebook could be used. No smartphone too, unless we were completely lost. Approaching locals randomly to ask for travel tips can be awkward sometimes so I had to come up with a device, so I thought why not create a deck of cards with questions to the most common things you would want to know on holiday. The cards would help reduce the awkwardness of breaking the ice. The idea would be that locals would draw a card and then give us a tip based on the question on the card. We would then follow on that tip and also ask the local to recommend another local we should meet and help us on our quest. 

Sunset at the saltpans in Xwejni

The trip

So how did it go? Our experiment started in Gozo when we met the wonderful friendly Philip Spiteri from the popular Ta Philip restaurant. He pretty much introduced us to the whole island. After drawing the card asking him to name his favourite lunch spot, he recommended we meet the lovely Claire who runs Mojo restaurant in Victoria, Gozo. Claire, was responsible for introducing us to the secret beach I mentioned earlier. When he drew the card asked to name his favourite pub, he recommended we visit the Gleneagles pub in Mgarr Harbour, run by the affable Tony who turned out to be a goldmine for tips and also a man with many stories to tell of the island. While there is sadly no such thing as a time machine, with some people you meet on your travels, you have a connection with the past, with all the magic and sadness that has passed before, that sense of almost being there when they describe all the emotions, the stories of the people they met in their bar for the last 40 years. Tony was that kind of person. A connection to Gozo’s past.

Our wonderful driver and guide, Alex

We ended three memorable days with a bag full of new memories and friends. We ended up in a lot of new places and a very different perspective of Malta. I would need an entire day just to tell you about all the magic but let me finish with the end of our trip. Picture the most incredible sunset. We were at Dingli cliffs. We had received the tip from countless locals. It seems like everyone had got the same tip too. The car park was jammed and the viewing point was already a tussle between visitors, scrambling to get that perfect picture of the sunset that would immortalise the moment in history. Led by our driver, Alex we walked further away from the crowds, along the cliffs until we were strangled by the empty silence of the big wide open sea. A retired police officer who hunted down local smugglers, Alex knew every street, every dust track like the back of his hand. He wasn’t a man of many words but there were times when showing us the island, I would see a flicker of emotion in his eye. I saw his eyes widen when we reached the spot. We were a million miles from everything and just the open wide sea, bathed in this golden light as that fiery red ball of fire slowly melted into the horizon. Somewhere in the distance was Africa. It was then I fished out my pack of Twistees.

It was a tip from local chef Stephen La Rosa. 

‘Do not leave the island without eating this!’

We sadly had no Cisk but those twistees tasted damn good. We ate it to our hearts content in perfect silence, till the darkness swallowed the sun and our shadows. I then gave Alex the biggest hug and I think we both had a tear in our eyes.

Hanging out with the wonderful Tony, owner of Gleneagles Bar

What makes moments like this and travel so perfect?

No matter how much we perfect technology and AI, some things in life can’t be manufactured. In the end, it comes down to timing. Plus, also being in the right place. Serendipity. In this sense, Malta was perfect. 

The beauty of our adventure was that it was nothing to do with luck but all about being brave and taking a chance. So, my message is simple. If you do visit Malta, leave the guidebook and phone behind in the room. Go to a bar. Order the local drink. Have a random conversation with a local. Give them the permission to share their home with you. You don’t need the card game. I promise you, you will be surprised at what you might discover. 

In the end, it is really simple. Travel is all about the people. It becomes so much more meaningful and exciting when we connect with locals, find out their story and maybe learn something new that changes your perspective.

Turns out, there are still secrets in travel. You just need to ask the right people.

Further reading

Best cheap eats in Gozo

Cheap eats guide to Malta

Things to do in Malta and Gozo

Disclaimer: The trip to Malta was possible thanks to the kind support of Visit Malta UK and partners. However, all the opinions expressed here, good and bad are entirely my own. Plus, a huge thank you to all the locals we met in Malta and Gozo who made our trip unforgettable. More Malta and Gozo stories and tips coming up soon on the blog. In the meantime, please visit the Visit Malta website for more ideas to plan your trip.

1. Enjoy the Street Art 

Olomouc has a lively street art scene thanks to the annual Street Art Festival which launched in 2007. Thanks to the festival, Olomouc has attracted international street art stars like Mr. Dheo, ZZRock, Wild_Drawing, ParizOne and Chemise, whose works can be seen across the city.

There are many examples  of street art right in the heart of the city centre like the small passage ‘Lomená Gallery’, right across from the Museum of Modern Art which currently features masked faces (‘Sweet vandalism’ artwork by local Dosy Doss), which gets redecorated every few years.

Right next to the Museum of Modern Art, is one of the most famous street art pieces in the city by Mr Dheo, a large mural of  King Edward VII of Great Britain, posing with a selfie stick. Right next to the mural there’s Marie Curie holding a container full of uranium. Other prominent large murals in Olomouc include the the Power of Silence by an Indonesian artist Wild_Drawing, right at the crossing of Pavelčákova Street and Třída Svobody.

2. See the Museum of Modern Art Olomouc

Address: Denisova 824/47, 779 00 Olomouc, Czechia

With a focus on showcasing art from the 20th and 21st centuries, the Museum of Modern Art hosts a collection of 85000 art items that include paintings, sculptures, drawings, graphic art, photographs, applied art, and architectural designs. The gallery focuses on presenting both long-term and short-term exhibitions primarily showcasing art from the 20th and 21st centuries, with a big focus on Czech Modern art. Don’t forget to climb to the top of the wee tower on top, from where you can enjoy a bird’s eye view of Olomouc skyline.

Tip: Entry is free on Sundays.

Don’t miss: The Robber by David Cerny

Along the facade of the Olomouc Museum of Art you will observe one of David Cerny’s iconic sculptures, a robber who is trying to escape the museum with a valuable piece of art (a sculpture piece) in his backpack. The sculpture is apparently that of Karel Nepraš, a tribute to the late Czech sculptor. The statue is powered by an engine that moves along the ledge every hour and features the voice of Czech singer, David Koller.

3.  Have a coffee at Konvikt Bistro & Bar

Address: Univerzitní 3, 779 00 Olomouc, Czechia

If the weather is nice, hop to the terrace of the atmospheric Konvikt Bistro&Bar, located in a former 17th century baroque Corpus Christi Chapel. It is a great place to relax for a coffee, cakes and they also serve a nice selection of food with vegan and vegetarian options. 

Or try 

Traffic 

Palackého 21

Just around the corner from Konvikt is Traffic, one of Olomouc’s best coffee shops, tucked into a former newspaper shop. The brainchild of a local architect, the coffee is fantastic plus definitely try Honza’s cakes, which come with a plum or sweet cream filling. Definitely keep an eye out for the quirky chairs, designed along the lines of the seats of the legendary Czechoslovak T9 tram.

4. Visit the Olomouc Astronomical Clock

Horní náměstí square is one of the nicest in the Czech Republic, surrounded by historic buildings . One of my favourite buildings on the square is the splendid 15th century baroque Town Hall with a tapering tower that features a highly unusual astronomical clock on one side, dating back to the early 15th century, making it one of the oldest astronomical clocks in the world. It was created by the clockmaker Mikuláš of Kadaň, almost a decade after he built the famous Prague Astronomical Clock. The Olomouc Astronomical Clock was almost completely destroyed by the Nazis and remodelled during Communist years to display scenes of proletarians at work to mark the passing hours, rather than saints. A procession of twelve apostles emerges from small windows above the main dial, accompanied by a short musical tune everyday at noon.

5.  Have lunch at Cà Phê District

Cà Phê District is without a doubt some of the best Vietnamese cuisine I’ve found anywhere in the Czech Republic. Try the banh mi sandwiches, pho or my favourite, the red curry with tofu or chicken. Portion sizes are generous, prices are reasonable, staff are friendly and speak English. Finish off with a strong Vietnamese coffee to stave off the food coma.

6.  Visit some of the architectural gems of Olomouc

I love the juxtaposition of architectural styles, from the bombastic Baroque and moody Gothic to the ugly pretty socialist architecture in Olomouc. Olomouc definitely has a very interesting architectural scene, with an intriguing mix of old and new. Dedicate your afternoon to visiting some of the city’s range of architectural gems. Here are my favourites.

Red Church of Olomouc

A church doesn’t sound like the most obvious place for finding innovative design but the Red Church of Olomouc has undergone a dramatic renovation. Reflecting the church’s Neo-Gothic style, Czech study Atelier-r has added an extension to the existing church which was built in 1902. The star feature of the renovation is a minimalist glass encased stylish cafe and reception area which has been constructed from the same pastel pink concrete of the floor. One of the highlights is the tall back wall of the reception, filled with old books that are backlit in the evening. The reception and church intends to be a hub for cultural events and live music concerts. I am not a design or architecture geek but it is definitely something you should see if you are visiting Olomouc. 

Villa Primavesi

The Art Nouveau Villa of Otto and Mede Primavesi is one of the lesser known sights of Olomouc, tucked away in the winding streets of the historic city centre. This architectural marvel has stood for a century and is a remarkable example of the style of the Vienna Secession, built by Viennese architects Josef Tolk and Franz von Krauss . Today, the villa is recognized as a national cultural monument, a time capsule of the elegance and charm of the era. The personal highlight for me is the gorgeous Art Nouveau entrance  of Villa Primavesi, adorned with the work of a certain Gustav Klimt, who was a frequent visitor back in the day.

Holy Trinity Column

Just across from the town hall you’ll also spot that UNESCO-listed Holy Trinity Column, which I saw all those years ago in a Lonely Planet guidebook. The magnificent 18th century monument, ornately decorated with sculptures of various saints was constructed as an expression of gratitude for the city’s deliverance from the plague and to honour the Holy Trinity. Supposedly the biggest single Baroque structure in Central Europe, it was built by the prominent Moravian sculptor, Ondřej Zahner and stands at approximately 35 meters (115 feet) tall, made primarily of sandstone.

Kino Metropol

One of my favourite buildings is the art deco Kino Metropol, which showcases the latest in independent cinema with a few English language cinema screenings every week. They have a retrokino screening every week. On my last trip I was privileged to see the 80th anniversary screening of Casablanca for the bargain price of 90CZK (€3.80).

Mausoleum of Yugoslav Soldiers

In the heart of Smetana Park, standing on an artificial mound, is one of the more unusual attractions of Olomouc, the Mausoleum of Yugoslav Soldiers, a Neoclassical style chapel with an ossuary that was built as a resting place for the remains of 1100 Czech and Serbian soldiers who fought each other in the First World War. For a century, the mausoleum had been lying neglected, attracting addicts and vandals before being boarded up and was recently renovated.  You will see an epigraph etched in the shape : VĚRNOST ZA VĚRNOST – LJUBAV ZA LJUBA. The first part which is Czech, means ‘loyalty for loyalty’ and the second part which is in Serbo-Croatian, means ‘love for love’

7. Take a boat ride on the river

You are probably going to need a rest after exploring all the sites so why not slow it down and see the city from a different perspective? I highly recommend taking one of the river boat cruises. Lasting 45 minutes, this service includes a live commentary from the captain about the the Morava river and the surrounding nature. The journey leads you through the original river bed from their dock ‘Olomoucká náplavka’

To book a river cruise checkout the website for sailing times. Indvidual bookings can be made but it is worth noting that without a minimum of 6 bookings, sailings will not take place. Any questions, drop a line to info@plavbyolomouc.cz ; cost 220 CZK for adults and 170 CZK for children/seniors.

8. Where to drink beer in Olomouc

Brewery Moritz 

Nešverova 2

Round off the day in style at a 1920’s style Czech pub and brewery, named after the famous local architect Moritz Fischer. Moritz offers hearty Czech cuisine and also a selection of 3 unfiltered beers, 10°, 11° and 12° beers, which are brewed on the premises. You can also book a tour of the microbrewery or a crash course in beer brewing.

Svatováclavský Pivovar

Mariánská 845/4, Olomouc

Another Olomouc classic, Svatováclavský Pivovar is within walking distance of the old city centre. With a weird location and entry (ground floor of an apartment building, through the apartment entry hall), once inside it’s very spacious yet cosy. Expect hearty Czech cuisine, friendly service and a range of beers, from classic unpasteurised beers to more unusual flavours like banana and cherry. The outdoor patio, with tables covered by plaid chequered cloth are the place to be in the summer. They also have a beer spa if that’s your thing.

9. Where to find Tvarůžky” Cheese, the famous Olomouc cheese

There is a Czech saying, the worse the cheese smells, the better it tastes, so naturally I was wary of trying ‘Tvarůžky’ Cheese. When it comes to cheese, I don’t have the most adventurous palate, especially  strong, pungent cheese but Olomoucké tvarůžky is a must eat when visiting Olomouc or exploring Czech cuisine so I had to try…

Olomoucké tvarůžky, enjoys a typical and unmistakable taste and smell, caused by the (proteolytic) degradation of cheese proteins during the maturing process. Locals often enjoy it with bread, accompanied by onions, pickles, and sometimes topped with butter. I am pleased to inform you that it tasted much better than I thought, nice savoury taste, creamy texture and goes very well with bread or crackers, washed down with a dry white wine. Maybe there is truth in that old Czech saying…

Visit the special “tvarůžky”shop: Prodejna Olomouckých tvarůžků ( Address: 7, Horní nám. 365, 779 00 Olomouc, Czechia ) on Horní náměstí square, opposite the astronomical clock to sample it when in Olomouc.

10. Olomouc Nightlife tips

25% of Olomouc’s population are students so it may come as no surprise that the bar scene here definitely packs a punch for a city of its size. My favourite bar is the Vertigo student sky club, a basement club with rooms designed with scenes from Hitchcock’s classic thriller Vertigo. The cheap beers and eclectic range of cocktails here (try the Angry Dog) will leave you for sure with a vertigo inducing hangover the following day. 

If you love your Guinness and whisky, also pop into the stylish Black Stuff, Irish Pub and Whisky Bar – fab service and great atmosphere. If you are a jazz, blues aficionado, pop into the Jazz Tibet Club which plays host to local and international bands from the jazz, blues and world music scene. 

11. Where to stay in Olomouc: Long Story Short Olomouc

Location: Olomouc, Czech Republic

Long Story Short make you feel like you’re in a cloud. Combine that with climbing up sleek large stairs to the lofted beds in the dorm rooms (this hostel “doesn’t believe in bunks” – you’ll only find them in the 10-person dorms) and you’re sure to feel like you’re in a dream.

The historic building also features an in house café that serves delicious Moravian food and baked goods, local wine, beer and coffee. Additionally, downstairs is home to Vault 42, an equally beautiful co-working space.

Disclaimer

This post was produced in partnership with Czech Tourism and Traverse Events to help commemorate the thirtieth anniversary of the independent Czech Republic #Czech30

As always the opinions expressed here, good and bad, are entirely my own.